Bet it was gorgeous when fresh and newly bloomed. Whites are so beautiful. I have to cut mine - they stay in bloom about at least 4-5 months+ , i.e. November/Dec to April/May. By that time, I’m tired of them and the plant desperately needs rest with a couple of spikes pulling their strength. Need to get back to leaves and roots. I keep mine fed well in the summer when they can get bright light, dry out fast and have new tips in the pot and are constantly making new leaves. That way when fall comes and they are getting a few weeks going down as far as 60s at night they can form more spikes. The years the fall is long and temps don’t get down past 57-60@ night after nice warm 75+ days, I get more spikes. As long as they have been out all summer they can take the gradual temp lowering. Its so different though in the spring where they have been inside all winter, can’t take the cold, I won’t put them back out until the temps reach at least 70, and the nights are there too. But the lowering to around the 60 range is how the Netherlands get 3-4 spikes on their production phals. Of course, theirs are inside and under controls. I was going to ask why the leaves were a bit floppy, but I see why, your roots seem very dry. I find in these clear pots, watering before those roots turn silver the plant stays happier in terms of stiff upright leaves, at least in my Orchiata bark. I also find calcium helps along with magnesium spray every two months. For me, the leaves are pretty hard. I’m using RO so need to always add calcium. I use First Rays Klite 12-1-1 as a base that has 10% calcium and all the trace minerals needed. About every couple months, I skip watering, I let them do a hard dry ie to silver for a couple of days and then water heavy until nice green. It will make it start to push roots or does for me. The Klite is a safe base to use more often at 25-50 ppm and I alternate in Better Grow plus and their bloom formula once a week or every other week. It really depends on how the plant is responding. I’m just not sold on MSU formula ie very low phosphorus and potassium. These are vital to root production and cold tolerance if you live where you can keep them outside for a longer period of time in fall/winter. You don’t need to over do, but more than 1% is needed I think. I tried it for 2 years and saw a decline and now they are doing better with the model I’m using. Especially with bare-root Vandas which I have 17 large ones that need at least 1-2 times a day watering. One watering is with 25-50 ppms of the Klite, second is with RO water or rain whatever I have available. In July and August they need many days a third watering when days are over 95 and up. You might be interested in the note I made on other video about leaving old spike about 3” tall to use for clipping and stabilizing plant when repotting etc. just a thought that really helps me out with wobbly phals especially when you need roots. As all know, the movement chafes them off and they can’t get established if wobbling around.

@hobbybobby3398

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Thanks, again... I'm no expert, just an enthusiast. 🙂