Vintage vs. Reproduction, a 1950's Dress Pattern comparison || Simplicity 1849 vs S9849
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"Are vintage and AUTHENTIC reproduction patterns the same?". The next in this series I call Vintage vs. Reproduction, is a glorious 1950's empire waist fit and flare or sheath dress pattern. I will be comparing this original 1950's vintage sewing pattern to its modern reproduction by the same company, Simplicity 1849 versus Simplicity S9849.
I have been a vintage pattern seller for 10 years and have always been asked, why I don't like the reproduction patterns. I knew they used block patterns to adjust the vintage patterns. I knew they looked at only the front covers and guessed on the rest, but now I want to put them to the test.
This sewing pattern review is meant to help you make the reproduction sewing pattern if you want to make it look more original to the vintage, or to help you decide if the reproduction is even worth purchasing.
Will this be another vintage reproduction pattern rant?
I am doing this series so that everyone can see which vintage reproduction patterns are worth your time and money, and which belong in the dumpster.
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Other videos you may enjoy:
I found a bag FULL of missing pattern pieces: • I found a bag FULL of ...
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Vintage vs. AUTHENTIC: Laura Ashley Nightgown & Robe: • Vintage vs. AUTHENTIC:...
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Stephanie Canada
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#vintagepatterns #vintagevsrepro #simplicitypatterns
Пікірлер: 133
Lmao the modern is trash all b/c of those darts and the underarm I did in fact get stuck in the dress and had my poor kids panicked to save me 😂
@therewillbecatswithgwenhwyfar
14 күн бұрын
Oh no!!!! 😂😂😂😂
@user-xd2ml8dn9h
13 күн бұрын
Oh dear 😂
@colin5227
13 күн бұрын
That sucks! Aw
@LuvMyCardiKids
12 күн бұрын
Oh no! That’s crazy! What is the pattern company thinking? Not a lot I don’t think. I just made a bag off a simplicity pattern and had to alter the pattern before I made it so the pieces of the bag would actually fit together. And the pattern piece for a separate cover wasn’t even big enough to hold what it was being made to hold. That piece I had to enlarge 1” in width and 1.5” in length for it to hold the item it said it was for. It’s gotten to where you have to check everything before you even mock up! So nuts. There’s absolutely no quality control anymore.
@susanowen1709
12 күн бұрын
I have had literal nightmares about getting stuck in clothing. I'm sorry that happened to you, especially after you put all that work into making the dress.
thank you for diving deeply into the mechanics of this pattern. also, it is hilarious to hear SewRena swearing! In my mind, she is always perfect and never swears.
@brandonspriggs7717
14 күн бұрын
Same lol
Yeah that's why I go right in and sew the closure that serves me rather than what they think I need. The beauty of sewing is looking at the instructions and saying, "Nope I don't think I will."😄
It’s stuff like this that made me appreciate the tilting light table my late father built.
Love the vintage vs. repro series. Not authentically reproducing the pattern, but copy paste on the instructions is just absolutely crazy.
@annbrookens945
13 күн бұрын
Totally agree!
Im with you on needing the extra instructions about tricky bits. And changing the pattern to make it so you get stuck is frustrating. I had to have my husband pull me out of a dress i was making last night because I was stuck. Thankfully it was a mockup but still. Thanks for doing the heavy lifting pattern testing since Simplicity didnt do it.
I am guessing that they had one of the tiny sizes, and then put it into their system for scaling. Then the algorithm would be trying to scale from there and that might account for some of it, or perhaps the copy they had was trimmed down to the owners measurements, and then more drift once in the computer scaling system?
@MarisaFrasure
14 күн бұрын
Makes sense to me......
@Eloraurora
14 күн бұрын
@@MarisaFrasure It seems like it gave SewRena a hard time, too, though. And she's pretty small herself.
@MarisaFrasure
14 күн бұрын
@@Eloraurora she has what you call a costumable body. If she had difficulties, imagine the rest of us.....
@Eloraurora
13 күн бұрын
@@MarisaFrasure I mean, the lines do appeal (as the owner of a noodle torso) but I'd also have to figure out where to start grading out the hips.
@Downhomeherbwife
13 күн бұрын
The vintage one was factory folded, never cut.
So it continues. The "reproductions" are reimagenings and the "authentic reproductions" are slightly changed but fairly close repros
Congratulations on your sponsorship. Making the mockups was amazingly informative. Vintage can be bad and tricky all on its own. Nicely done
wish i was there to show you how to make a light box so you can see the patterns on top better , maybe husband can make for you
Now I'm off to go watch Serena's make just to hear her swear...LOL. I love that you did a deep dive into the sleeve. It not only changes how you fit your arm through but also how the fabric lays across the chest. It's almost like Simplicity is afraid of CURVES.
Thank you for this comparison of modern vs. vintage. There are enough "modifications" in the modern one that changes the fit!! I love the romance of vintage, and it was accomplished with the darts, techniques on collars, buttons, etc., AND something that doesn't fall apart in the wash! VINTAGE all the way! I'm learning a LOT--Thanx, Stephanie!
I am glad this reproduction is close, I'm going to add this to my list of future makes! Thank you for making practical mockups!!
Thank you so much for adding the final measurements. That is so helpful! I have this original vintage pattern but it’s not my size, so it’s nice to know about the quality of the reproduction.
A new video on the same day I got not one but 2 antique sewing machines? goodness. what a lovely day.
Everything you said about the patterns is true. When I took home economics, despite careful measurements and reading the instructions, the finished product never fit well. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time innclass to make a mockup nor were our teachers expert enough to explain to us how to change a pattern to make it fit. Just wasted time and money. For those girls with perfect figures, they got the better grades not because they were better seamstresses, but because the end product fit them better. What I would do is buy the pattern I wanted and several yards of burlap or cheap polyster to practice on over the summer. This way I got a good grade because the pattern fit me--no thanks to the pattern makers and teachers, but because I took the initiative myself.
I just had an epiphany!!!! I bet that they took the vintage pattern, copied it and then a graphic designer (or pattern drafter??) moved the darts "slightly" on the modern pattern to accommodate for the extra lines that are needed for the multi size pattern. I bet that the dart lines would have overlapped too much to be comprehensible. They altered the pattern so it would fit the criteria of working on the multi pattern and ignored the slight adjustments that would have on the fit of the garment. I wonder if the outer shapes of the under arm and skirts were copied from another similar pattern and were just "re-used" so no one had to re-draft the pieces. Maybe it makes sense to add another 1" of seam allowance to all these re-issues just so everyone has more wiggle room.
@user-yc4fz7vv6u
13 күн бұрын
This is what I was thinking about the darts.
I would love if they used the correct pattern pieces and then distinguished the various sizes by using both different line pattern as well as a color and a symbol printed on the pattern, although I might be tempted to notate it on each pattern piece. I’d pay for that.
Great video & I love that you do these challenges. Excellent mock up! Simplicity should do this before they release these patterns! 😤
After watching multiples of these I am wondering if the drafters are ‘walking’ the patterns. This is where you match up all your pieces where they seam together to make sure they match up properly. They just said, ‘close enough’ and called it a day. They also aren’t adding the same ease allowances as the vintage patterns. I don’t know what they their thought processes are but I would definitely do things differently.
Stephanie, I have to know the pattern number of the green dress cut out that you pop up at 20 seconds. I made that dress in junior high and that was my first experience with a three-way seam. I ripped it out a couple of times and it was pretty ragged when I finished it. Whew! Most of my patterns of that era didn’t survive. Mom probably passed them along to friends who had daughters younger than me, or I used them so many times they were ragged. Enjoyed your review. I guess it’s the little things that count. I’ve made a couple of vintage patterns and do my best to put the zipper in the back. So much easier to put on, and easier to add pockets if I want! This is Jan. Darlene is my mom and we watch you on her channel on TV.
@NatSews
9 күн бұрын
Simplicity 7436, the v-yoke collarless tent dress :)) would be fun to revisit it !
I can understand changing the pattern to accommodate modern sizes, fabric, lifestyle and modern foundation garments, but it should actually improve on the original.
It always amazes me how much a few small changes to the pattern can affect the finished garment!
legitimately whispered "yesssssssssss" to myself when i saw this. love these videos.
Well, to be fair, the modern block may take into account that people are not built the same as they were back in the 60s. We’re generally squishier than people were back then, looking back at my own family photos. As long as the style is close, I don’t have a problem with it. We all need to adjust patterns to our own bodies anyway. I do love your dress, Steph! Ooh, la, la!
@FlickiChicki
13 күн бұрын
We actually aren’t. I wear the same patterns my Grandma P fitted to herself. There’s minimal changes - usually lengthening the hem as I’m 6” taller. There’s difference in undergarment structure however at some points.
@rd6203
13 күн бұрын
@@FlickiChickiI'm almost the same size as my grandma was, also, only an inch taller and without the "mommy middle" She was not a seWist, sadly.
@christajennings3828
8 күн бұрын
Except that the finished measurements of the modern one are 1 inch SMALLER in the bust and waist (1" larger in the hips), than the vintage one, for the same body measurements.
Your videos are so entertaining, thank you. And I have to say, I have been sewing for over 60 years. Even when the pattern called for side zip, I put in a back, gasp. Yes even in the 50s or 40s patterns since they were around. I hated side zips so for ease back zipper I don't care about the authenticity i care about comfort. ❤
@Downhomeherbwife
13 күн бұрын
I put side zips in modern items for exactly the same reason - comfort. I am not a contortionist, have two messed up shoulders and arthritis in my hands, and cannot do up a back zip. But, back zips ARE so much easier to put in!
Props to hubby for his stellar acting during the sponsor part !
fun vid (but less snarky 🙄 than usual). i love the black check skirt in the surf shark cutaways .....
When i started sewing from patterns (roughly 1973) I very quickly learned to ignore the instructions. Nowadays . I don't actually use patterns very often. I drape most things, and when i do use a pattern it's mostly just for the shapes... which i modify to fit... that being said. I love your videos and you actually keep me company over long projects
I don’t get this. Some lines match perfectly, some not at all. So they HAD the original pattern pieces and decided to change these. Leave aside that’s not a reproduction than, per definition. But why add flaws like the sharp angle instead of the underarm curve? I’m just an amateur who makes patterns, but I don’t understand this. 🤔
@sophiesong8937
12 күн бұрын
IF it is reproduced from an original copy of this pattern, we don't actually know what size their copy was. In the process of grading, there are sometimes choices you have to make, and I think this could account for some of the difference. In my personal collection I have a multisize pattern produced by a major reproducer on Etsy, who I know had an original of a particular size, and I also have a copy of the original pattern in a different size.. and if I compare the two, the repro lines are off.. but I think it is the grading choices that result in the differences there, too.
I appreciate the comparison. My assumption for the reproductions has always been that they are an exact duplicate of the originals.
Even though it's not perfect, it's a LOT better than all the ones before. So E for effort. Maybe they could do better. I just wonder why all those little changes ? Do they have to pay the designer a fee for the repro? I must so the proportion of the modern would be a closer fit but still small in the boobs and big in the waist.
@CatMom-uw9jl
13 күн бұрын
I would think that after this much time the original designer is no longer with us. Plus, usually when you work in a creative job, anything you create at work belongs to the company, in terms of rights and royalties.
I would love to see someone make this up in the largest size 24/modern, before I decide to buy😅 for my collection.
@anonomas6126
13 күн бұрын
Why don’t you put more of your content on KZread? Your sewing seems interesting I would like to see more.
Is it bad I have an urge to make them both up in spare cloth from my stash just to see what happens? 9:13 ish
@MarisaFrasure
14 күн бұрын
Please do it..... people need to know!
It's a small thing, but I'm genuinely glad to see them finally putting the original pattern number on the new pattern. Saves a lot of time with Google Lens. And, tragically, I think this is what we all knew was coming, but didn't want to acknowledge (at least, I didn't)...that """"AuThEnTiC"""" label means absolute zip.
Chaos sewing here... I'm making a pair of SUPER wide-legged trousers (inspired by the ones Ailsa made a few weeks ago on this year's Sewing Bee); I put the fabric for the welt pocket bags in the wrong way round; so the inside of the pocket isn't the pretty side. (These are additional back pockets that aren't on the original pattern I'm using). And decided to just live with it. If someone can see that my pocket bags aren't as pretty as they should be, they're Too Close.
I HATE the modern multisize patterns with a passion and was always underwhelmed when i did sew one. That is why, in my opinion, vintage rules! I now purchase vintage exclusively and i enjoy the hunt for the perfect ( me) patterns. Thank u for doing these comparison videos, they are informative and always entertaining😊 😊
*Body doubling with KZread while I iron* Stephanie: ironing ASMR Perfection!
Possibly not on-topic, but I really love the shirt and skirt you have on in the mock-up reveal and in the sponsor-segment. They look really good on you, if I'm allowed to say that.
Lol, thanks Stephanie. I am definitely sewing in chaos today. And this was a nice companion.
Thank you for being so thorough and always giving a little extra!
All thru i kept thinking yeah but do the seams match, .... Bonus for us that you stitched up both copies 👍 We love the visuals! 🎉💗
You rock! Thank you for doing this.
This is why I add seam allowance to commercial patterns. There’s always iffy measurements on them!
I don't care for the neckline front thing. Thank you for another fun video
Hearing sweet @sewrina cuss made my day. 😂
I love this series!
Love the comparison videos. Just shows they don't do the right corrections from original to retro repattern . And from a booby girl here in Australia I absolutely love love love the dress you had on at the beginning of this video 😊
Another option for the zipper location could be Center front. And invisible zipper should fit quite nicely right there. And it would be better for those with issues reaching to the vaccine or the side seam to unzip themselves. Another quickish fix for the side seam to underarm seam is to add a gusset. This style of cut on sleeve or "kimono" sleeve is very popular and vintage fashions in the mid-century, but aren't really used in modern times. And most people might not find them very comfortable. I would recommend a gusset in a shape of a triangle or like a cartoon house. The base width of the triangle flash foundation of the house would be the extra with needed at the opening of the sleeve. Then, the sides of the triangle slash house will be the length of the underarm seem. That should give more room for comfort and mobility.
Yeees I've been waiting for another one of these!
It irks me no end that they can't just reprint the things. Some of them were enough of a challenge the first time they came out but for some reason these companies think they are improving things when they clearly aren't. They are just cutting a few corners they arbitrarily decide on. If they want to improve it and modernize it, just say "put the zipper in the back" or something like that.
Oh boy, my favorite series is back, I'm soo excited!!🥰
This is such an informative and entertaining process! Thank you for producing this series
I love it wen you do this!!!!
I think the tucks & neckline on this would have thwarted me so congrats on your valiant effort. And I definitely prefer a back zip. Why did the original pattern not have one anyway😂😂? Thanks for your detailed analysis.
Love these comparison videos :)
Hi Stephanie, I've an idea for you. (Love ur vids). Why not choose a year and do a "fashion" show (showing patterns) for that year and maybe make one for each season (4)? A new vid for each outfit you make, showing the season and patterns you selected it from. Say 1957 Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter collection; and then a vid for each seasonal outfit made for this year, or whatever year you like. You could do a few of a different year for each decade, if you wanted to continue the theme. xx
I'm not sure why people are struggling so much with this one. There is a size that matches perfectly, probably a small size judging by the thing that has happened on the under arm (curves get more pointy as sizes get smaller). And then the pattern was graded from that size. Grading is an art and not a science and whoever graded this pattern, graded it differently to how it was originally graded. Hence the variation on the pattern sizes, but the actual pattern pieces pretty much lining up in lines.
Hi Stephanie! I am new to your channel, but I am hooked! I cannot begin to tell you how absolutely beautiful you are! And the dresses you make! Gorgeous! You're pretty darn funny, too!
That neckline & those darts give me nightmares ill stick to my muumuus 😂
Oh frabjous day, caloo, calay! He chortled in his joy.
great video--thank you!!
The other possibility for the differences is the printing method. I know from buying digital patterns that even though it might work perfectly on the authors printer, that doesn't mean it will work perfectly on mine.
I've used a different pattern from this "revival" line and I had to do soooo much finagling to get it to work& look correctly.
Blimmin heck that midriff rides high!!! It doesn't have much bust room!
Is the difference in size due to the modern seam allowance? 5/8 of an inch for modern patterns and 1/2 for older patterns. Don't know if I have got this the right way around for sure. Birdy
@Downhomeherbwife
13 күн бұрын
they both have 5/8 seams.
Did you live in Canada or do you have the name just cause… I love your content!!!🤩
@m.maclellan7147
13 күн бұрын
She lives in Florida. "Canada" is her & husband's name.
@Downhomeherbwife
13 күн бұрын
@@m.maclellan7147 'and no, I don't live there' 😁
I learned something!
Grat video!
Stephanie, greetings,👋🏻👋🏻 I hope you are well and Florida is not as hot as germany ist right now😆
@daxxydog5777
14 күн бұрын
The entire South is hotter than the devil’s behind right now, in the 90s every day. But we have air conditioning, while it’s scarce in Europe. Prayers y’all get a break!
@joantrotter3005
9 күн бұрын
Not sure how hot it was in Germany, but the real feel was 113* today north of Houston. Imagine what it would be like if we weren't getting cooler breezes of the water? Without the humidity I think it was 96?
@christajennings3828
8 күн бұрын
@@joantrotter3005drove through an area west of Sacramento, California on Tuesday where the actual thermometer reading was 110°. I don't know what it felt like, I kept my windows up and AC on!
Enjoyed this. I like the pleated side of the neck. I did NOT like the fake scarf look.
0:01 what dress is this? Is this something that you've shown on the channel? I'm gonna go back and look through thumbnails but even just seeing the top and that incredible fabric I want to know more!
It is so weird to me that the company wouldn't file these things in case they need them again. As an artist(_04_10_final_02) I find this very strange.
I made this dress using a reproduction pattern and it has both a side zip and a back zip.
Some of the differences are just from scaling/sizing - they reproduce one size from original - in this case due to all the dart placement aligning on the size 10 most probably that. Then they scale from there as they would with any modern pattern. Which is most definitely going to result in another final pattern then the way it was done "back then". Other techniques, and other parameters -- like your ease is also important in scaling up and down, so if they have another "default ease" due to all the modern fabrics they usually have to consider. The more you move away from the size they used initially, the more it will go wrong. Would guess if you'd gone to compare a size 10 and equivalent a lot of things would be closer. Some minor differences will always be - just due to "computer does curve alignment" vs. "Jaaaaack, where's my french curve gone again"?
I don't understand why they couldn't just copy the damn original ! ... they do larger sizes on these repros, so yeah they can adjust for the plus size but do it from the original !
so some of the seam lines not quite matching up i chock up with them being different sizes, a size 12 back in the 50's is more akin to an 8-10 today, fashion industry wants you to think your smaller than you think you are so trying to match the 12 to the 14 is not going to happen, the copy paste i find wonderful! they didn't change a thing basically. also you should know your measurements and change the pattern according to you actual size.
I received some beautiful wool vintage ? Fabric that is 29 inches wide. It was a common width in the 30s and 40s from info I can find. Is there a way to figure out yardage needed for patterns when info isn’t given for that width?
@k.s.k.7721
14 күн бұрын
Simply google "yardage conversion chart". Several will come up and you can choose whichever comes closest to your fabric width - then scroll until you find the right amount needed in other widths.
@christajennings3828
8 күн бұрын
@@k.s.k.7721that can get you close, but doesn't always work. I prefer to fold a piece of fabric (or a sheet, for wider widths) to the correct width, and lay out the pattern. I've had the equivalent charts give me an amount that didn't work, because there were pieces that couldn't overlap anymore, etc. All it will tell you is what equals the same number of square inches, and pattern layouts don't work that way.
I wonder if instead of having copies of all of the different sizes, if they only had one size of the original to base the reproduction on, so the differences are based upon the way that they graded the original sized pattern. 🤔🤔
Do you think the differences, specifically on the bodice, could be due to modern grading vs, vintage grading? I also wonder if they tried to remake it based on a picture or scan of the original tissue, rather than the actual pattern pieces on tissue.
Would love to see the reproduction Simplicity 3688 3 piece suit and I really want to make it but now I'm scared.
Do the sewing companies not even see the patterns and see if there are issues like “oh, by the way, someone gets stuck in the dress?” Clearly not.
“Authentic Vintage Reproduction” - was so disappointed when you didn’t say you’d be the judge of that 😂. Excellent cameo by Mr Canada. We all stan Mr Canada (after you, of course 🤪)
I will forgive some minor variance, as I expect they would only buy one copy of the vintage pattern and the grade it, not buy the original pattern in all required sizes. Who knows what size they started with. Clearly they didn't quite measure right and didn't think through how the darts would look on a multi sized pattern sheet though. Not forgiving all the issues here.
What I don't understand about patterns is the triangles sticking out of the lines.
Who is the lovely person who inspired you to make this video? I'd love a link to their YT
What’s the ease on each?
When you began, I thought, "Oh, good! Simplicity can expand on the original instructions and simplify the process!" Except, no. No they didn't. AND they made the pattern smaller???
got it when vintage pattern adds zipper on side do not do it add it to back of neck check!
I had an interesting experience with a reproduction vintage pattern. I couldn't get the bodice to work, tried 3X, tweaking a bit more each time. Finally realized that it was never going to work because it was a design failure.
I don't understand why there is a problem with reprinting the instructions exactly as they were in the original. There was a simplicity skirt reprint a few years ago that came with modern instructions PLUS a copy of the originals which was interesting to compare. I also don't understand why they don't simply reprint the original pattern. However, sometimes the original pattern isn't very good or has for our design issues, so maybe they thought they were improving on it?
What Empire waist? That’s a wasp waisted princess seamed dress with a seam defining the bust shape. This matters. Language is a tool of precision, when you trample on what words mean and tell people wrong stuff it just makes a mess. And it spreads.
@elizabethsommer7248
14 күн бұрын
These types of styles are, in fact, termed "empire waist" in the original descriptions! I know, it's weird sounding when you're looking at the very defined natural waistline (and comparing to the 19th century silhouette), but the '50s and '60s were odd that way 😅.
I have a real problem with this sizing. I fall between different sizes and it just doesn't ever fit right. Mom taught me to sew in the late 60's, yes I was a little thing but it would fit with my measurements. Today I'm frustrated, love sewing. Don't get why the pattern companies fixed what wasn't broken. 😢
It seems to me that there’s just no logic to how/where/if changes are made when the repro patterns are drafted.
some odd choices made there with the pattern reproduction.
I hate when they squish patterns. ::sigh::
✨🧵. I noticed the lace cards (wrappy plastic things🤷♀️?) on your shelf. Do you sell them? If not do you know someone who does? Thanks😎