It's Okay Atom, I had a few beers before watching, couldn't tell the difference

@StackingLimit

2 жыл бұрын

🤔

@ashrog82

2 жыл бұрын

Similarly, if he hadn't said anything, I would have assumed I needed new glasses.

@Mindtwist78

2 жыл бұрын

Often just listening to you. So its ok. In the footage, that shows the minis, the video is crisp. So everything is ok.

@keithmallarkey8786

2 ай бұрын

Just took my glasses off

I really like the look of that doorknob, had never had a good view of it before, thanks!

@0scarCampos

2 жыл бұрын

Lol, what a doorknob, those little details, amazing.

@Dannydarko27

2 жыл бұрын

The doorknob was caught in 4k lol

@asdfjkl981

Ай бұрын

yeah that really is a nice doorknob.

For anyone in the UK, massive recommend for Halfords white rattlecan primer. If you shake that thing for a good few minutes you can get a zenithal highlight that is very smooth with almost zero speckling.

@fuzzlemacfuzz

2 жыл бұрын

oooh thanks, been looking for a good primer, i'll give it a go

@leejamesburns

2 жыл бұрын

@@fuzzlemacfuzz No worries. It's decent value too at about 7 quid a can.

@oliverp3545

2 жыл бұрын

Only thing to watch out for if you're buying rattle cans meant for vehicles like cars is if they are the correct type you're looking for, as I brought one before I thought was green but didn't realise it was a green lacquer (the can just said it left a satin finish), which didn't ruin what I wanted to do but rather just meant the colour didn't show well and left a gloss finish.

@gurtwurz

2 жыл бұрын

The halfords matt Black rattlecan and their grey primer are also excellent

@leejamesburns

2 жыл бұрын

@@gurtwurz Indeed. I've been using their black and white cans to the exclusion of all else for a while now.

There’s no such thing as “cheating”. It’s all technique.

@zur13l13

2 жыл бұрын

Cheating is not sculpting your own models from blocks of plastic.

@KapitanPoop

Жыл бұрын

My ex-wife… didn’t agree with this assertion…

The channel: Geek gaming scenics (Lukes APS) - Luke has a solid tutorial for using rattle cans. The big takeaway that has help me reduce speckled texture is to ensure the cans are warm before spraying. Partially submerge them in warm water for several minutes before using. And then of course shake well. When you think you’ve shaken enough, shake some more.

@gsmith1135

2 жыл бұрын

Yep. I live in Arizona so i have another added benefit, alot of sun. I leave my cans outside for awhile and those get nice and toasty warm

@majorecosse5065

2 жыл бұрын

I saw this and can confirm a vast improvement in my priming

@kendo5862

2 жыл бұрын

Defo - was looking for this comment... and bathing in warm water for a few minutes apparently really helps (the can... not yourself ...unless you’re stressed about painting!)

@adamhanson5565

2 жыл бұрын

Marco Frisoni has a great tutorial on using spray paint on minis as well.

I'm in the UK and I took the advice to get an airbrush. Couldn't be happier. Now I can prime over the winter indoors! Thank you TT Minions!

@greenkandy5599

5 ай бұрын

It’s over two years old but I have to know what is a good airbrush primer ?

While its not white, I find the wraithbone rattlecan is my go to for zenithal priming. Pretty much every model I do these days is black followed by wraithbone. Gives the highlights of a white without being as harsh as the pure white of other cans and it doesn't (in my experience) speckle and texture. And its coverage is awesome so a relatively expensive can lasts ages as you don't need to many sweeps for the effect.

@fransaacs

2 жыл бұрын

I like a good color specific zenithal, I'll put wraithbone on the list. I'll want to try shooting through an airbrush too.

@brokefun7545

2 жыл бұрын

All hail wraithbone rattlecan master race

@JoeBoster

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, really it only seems expensive, per oz it’s right there with testors or Tamiya/mr hobby, Montana paint, etc.

@beezany

2 жыл бұрын

If you like that color but want to switch to airbrush, I highly recommend Titan Buff from Golden's High Flow Acrylics line. It's almost exactly the same color and has the same satin finish.

@fransaacs

2 жыл бұрын

@@beezany Excellent recommendation, I use Golden as the pigment base for much of my screen printing inks. Cheers!

I find Tamiya white fine surface primer in a rattle can to go on very smoothly- the can sprays a very fine mist in a controlled way and the nozzle is easier to finesse, almost like an airbrush.

@markjohnson3510

Жыл бұрын

Ditto

The pa-chow is strong in this one! Good vid, Uncle Atom. I mostly have grey primer, so what I sometimes do, is prime grey, give it a black wash and white drybrush. It's an extra step, but if you don't have airbrush or the right rattle cans at hand, it's an option.

Started doing zenithal highlighting after watching the streams and your cursed city skeletons video. I don't have the room currently for an airbrush unfortunately, but even just dry brushing has helped me improve my painting so much. So many thanks!

What I'm gathering is that there is no perfect, objectively best method of applying the zenithal highlight. The three methods all have strengths and weaknesses, both for practical purposes and for artistic ones.

@tabletopminions

2 жыл бұрын

Honestly, the only downside to airbrush priming is that you have to own an airbrush and need a place to use it. I use the airbrush method 95% of the time - it gives me the best results. Thanks for watching!

I commend you for just uploading this footage out of focus. It can be incredibly frustrating when that happens, but I just needed the information, and you present it very well.

One thing that's worked well for me without an airbrush is to prime grey with a rattlecan, do a black wash to give some shadow and then a light white drybrush. Saying that I tend to layer with acrylics and haven't had much improvement using a zenithal. If anything I find the white difficult to paint over. The best use of zenithal highlighting I've seen is with an airbrush and then using transparent layers on top, eg inks or contrast. For me using acrylics I've always thought it just looks like tinged grey.

@JoeHardacre

2 жыл бұрын

It sounds like you're not thinning enough. With a medium to thin, I've had lovely results glazing over a zenithal, just use a paper towel to take off most of the thin paint. Dana Howl has a good tutorial for glazing with acrylics. Agree with you on the light drybrush too as i prime with a can too.

@andreweshelman6377

2 жыл бұрын

Do you find that method better than just airbrushing your basecoat? As I start to use my airbrush I was debating whether to do a zenithal or just use it to do my base army color (or even zenithal in my base army color with a shade).

Vallejo rattle can primer paints are wonderful! I started working on my first painting project today after watching 100 KZread videos. It's an awesome The Last of Us 3D print I got on Etsy. I used Vallejo black spray with a white zenithal on top and it turned out perfect. Almost zero texture from the spray. And you even get two nozzles with it - standard and fine. The project is already coming out so good, I'm excited!

Great stuff. Zenithal has become my standard, especially when doing models with a lot of exposed flesh. Really helps to see the light/shadows. Cheers!

Zenith. It's the new "prime directive". Thank you.

@fuzzlemacfuzz

2 жыл бұрын

make it so

Your videos offer much more than just the visuals and you never miss a Friday (here Friday Arvo - Aussie for Afternoon) More power to ya .. love your work !!

That’s a beautiful lamp you’ve got there!

Really appreciate this video and all the pros and cons for each technique. I'm going to explore each of these and find an example of where I can use each one 😊

I can't believe, it just undercoated my batch of mini's with this method yesterday. I used a cheap airbrush compressor combo (65.00 GBP). Medieval type figs so went with brown base (Lots of brown stuff about in the medieval era) then the recommend white high lite. Been following you for a while and been wanting to give it a go. Really wish I had done a while ago. Gonna have to strip those Stormtroopers :-) Cannot wait for the next video. Cheers

Wow, the 1st minute of this vid was basically the questions I had... thanks for the good explanation, imma try this next hopefully it'll make my next minis pop even more! 😊

Really helpful video breaking down the three techniques. I found the dry brush part really good.

This whole camera setup, the background being in the focus on it's own made me subscribe. This is some unique content with knowledge behind it, can't wait to check out your other videos.

Thank you i think you just saved me from getting an airbrush at least for now. I've been looking high and low for a high contrast highlight as they don't seem to be popular but I'm doing a unit like the Angels of Death blood angel series and I want that grim realism, futuristic high contrast look for them..like they are in a shadowy grim apocalyptic setting not the medieval its high noon wartime look which seems to be standard. I've been really interested in dry brushing for a while. Thanks for the tips!

My favorite lizardmen paint job ever used a jade ink over black for a zenithal. Then I glazed the darker green very thinly over the zenithal. They turned out awesome.

Drybrushing grey seer is my go to for preshading for contrast paints. Spaying from above leaves to much black for contrast paints, brushing lets me get the right amount for how dark/bright I want the end result to be.

Totally agree adam, a zenithal can really be any color. For my genestealer cults, I used a zenithal of black to Russ grey to Russ grey plus a little white ink. This set up my blue armour for the army and created a great base coat for some contrast paints. Gulliman flesh and magos purple made quick work of the skin tones on the various types of cultists. Can't imagine starting a project without a zenithal prime.

would not have thought of using a make up brush/dry brush for Zenithal method! Thanks for sharing Uncle Atom!!

I enjoy the dark look of the drybrushed priming though i use a small wedged brush for that extra bit of precision

😄 I saw the disclaimer and thought, "OK, whatever." As soon as you came on screen, I was still surprised by how out of focus you were. Great video, despite the blurry face. 👍

Back to this video a year later for priming tips and mesmerized by the VERY interesting lights in the back corner

I use the drybrush zenithal method but add in a heavy drybrush of a dark grey and then a light grey before the white. Makes for a longer process but I like the smoother transition that results and still faster than a "regular" non-zenithal paint job.

@renatoe3417

7 ай бұрын

Cool ! Do you have a référence video or any tutorial ?

Can’t wait to see next week’s video 😁

Loved getting to see you airbrush some models! 👍

I’m think I’m going to try this out on some terrain. Thanks for the video!

Love that lamp, another great vid!

Cracking video Uncle A :) been painting up some Sisters and wanted to use a really bright pink, with the zenithall highlighting I noticed I was only getting a really bright on the top of the mini, when I really wanted it to be on the front armour to really emphasise that these are PINK! so decided to put more white down on the front of the model and now they pop so much more. So its worth experimenting with coverage and colours I went for Vallejo Mecha White as its really glossy and the Pink is so much brighter, all this using an airbrush. BTW if you squint you dont notice your out of focus ;)

I’ve tried zenith all highlighting with rattle cans and dry brush and didn’t love the look or the process. I really think airbrushing is the way to go to get smooth finishes, but I don’t have one. I’ll just try it again when I get a set up

I do something similar to zenithal priming eith my vehicles where I'll prime them turquoise/green then spray the top and back with a blue, the very tips of the front yellow and then use a turquoise glaze to bind it all together.

Hey, the visuals may be out of focus but the audio is outstanding!! Thanks for the vid!

Great video. It helped me out. I was using spray can primer and it was coming out spotty. I thought I was doing something wrong. Good to know it is normal.

I have been watching your vids for years but have only just recently gotten into minis myself. I thoroughly intend to do zenithal with a brush, but maybe start with grey or brown instead of black.

You are 5he best. No worries on the focus. Super appreciate you and the channel. Thanks for all you do.

Have you tried the army painter white rattle can? I always use the “army-size” white primer on my zenithal priming space marines or clone troopers and zombies. For me it always works perfectly fine

I'm always happy to watch your Friday videos, out of focus or not. But you could have modulated the voice and call it 'The confessions of anonymous zenithal primer' :D

@housecaldwell

2 жыл бұрын

Lol brilliant

I use Krylon White primer for my Bad Moonz Orks, and the yellow I use is liqutex basics primary yellow in one coat. I heat the can up in as hot as the tap will give me water in a cup for 15-20 minutes before I spray. Never had an issue with too thick of a coat or the odd texture white primers will have sometimes (I have had that issue myself in the past). I also use a garden stake and double sided tape to prime minis on, I can get the vast majority of my priming done in one go with those

The Citadel Contrast primers are both pretty good about speckling. They’re both off white, but I live in Texas where humidity is always a factor (every day of the year). It sprays on pretty well without speckling. Ultimately, I mostly use airbrushes these days (humidity, again), but occasionally I’ll bust out Grey Seer or Wraithbone rattle cans.

Funny I got notified about you other video but not about this one. Just notice when I went to your channel. Thank you for this video. As it helped explain alot.

I'm here for the dulcet tones of your voice, not the eye candy anyway

I was just researching this. Thanks for the vid

I recently zenithaled all of Cursed City. Chaos black and seer grey. (About the same as tamiya grey primer) My plan is to mainly use contrast paint. The grey seer is hard to control tho as it’s a bit like using a firehose. But this avoids the pebbles of corax white.

Thanks for the tips! This is a awesome method

I just used the makeup brush method to zenithal highlight some bloodbowl minis last week, worked pretty well though I did find some spots the paint seemed to REALLY build up quick. I'm assuming maybe I had too much paint on the brush still. Overall they turned out well enough, I like this method because it gives just enough guidelines and highlights to the highest areas of the mini while keeping everything else darker. I do very much agree with the harder to reach areas though, I need to get a way smaller brush for those lol. One thing I tried (and possibly goofed on) was thinning a little of my paint before my gf drybrushed her flesh golem. It made the whole model almost grey and didn't do a good job highlighting I don't think.

I need to try this make-up brush technique. Also, get some contrast paints.

I think in alot of situations a light grey is better than white because I find them to be slightly thinner and it allows you to just simply spray the very tips of models white, creating a greater blend of shade compared to the grey created as a consequence of the white blending with the black.

I only use Stynyl Rez primer with an airbrush. After priming with rattle cans and getting the "spots" I switched. The Stynyl Rez looks so good with the airbrush.

Great video, Atom! Many thanks! :)

Would be interesting to try this with contrast paints. For example if I use Gray Seer as a primer should I use white for zenithal or Black and then zenithal Grey Seer.

@nikotillmann9764

2 жыл бұрын

For the most contrast, first use black (or another pretty dark colour), then grey seer. You could finish that with a little white from the very top.

Army Painter White rattlecan has been really smooth for me. And has been less affected by Houston’s typical 90% humidity

I usually do a combination of rattlecan and drybrush. The trick is to spray just a very light dusting with the rattlecan, to avoid the mini ending up too withe, as you say. You can then finish withening it up with the drybrush up to the level you wanted.

I have used vallejos white primer rattlecan and it comes on pretty smoothly but I shake the can first than put it in warm water (not hot) for 5 min and shake the can again before using it.

Excellent video -thank you!

Thanks Atom, never thought of drybrush working as a zenithal. +5int for mentioning that the zenithal doesn't have to be white too.

@adamchrist326

2 жыл бұрын

Totally agree!

@bopaintsminis

2 жыл бұрын

I think it was Miniac that did a video a while back about using different colors to zenithal. Might be worth a watch for you.

just in time. saw this 2 min before trying zenithal with rattle can. thanks!

Great stuff friend 👏 👍

I would never had thought of the drybrush technique, thanks!! I got an airbrush as a gift, I am never ever touching again a rattlecan spray, I loathe them.

Nice video. tbh, I've just started painting up 2 Napoleonic armies in 2mm scale, and a white drybrush over black really helps the details stand out.....not that 2mm is ever going to need blending over zenithal, but i think the principle is similar.

@TheSzybas

2 жыл бұрын

2mm scale? Wow... Can you share examples of unpainted and painted minis here?

@FelixstoweFoamForge

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheSzybas umm...I'm not sure how to do that buddy, but I can certainly try. TBH, 2mm is SO easy to paint it feels like cheating. (I did two napoleonic armies in about a week).

That's basically what i'm doing with my airbrush. Currently with my raven guard army, I use a black primer, then another coat of army painter matt black, then a first "large" zenithal with a very dark blue, and next a lighter blue hue, more focused.

I think you just wanted to make sure we saw that YoutTube play button in the background super in focus ;). Jokes aside, this was super useful to me. I'm just getting started and wanted to know how to do the highlighting. I feel way more confident in trying it now.

I actually combine the airbrush and drybrush methods Uncle Atom explained. I zenithal prime with an airbrush, then use a dark wash on the model, drybrush for highlights and then use glaze paints.

Citadel Wraithbone is a good rattle can white option. It is pretty smooth for a white.

Blurry or not, it's a great video! On your monument white primer, do you think it down at all, or just straight through the airbrush? I've done both and while the thinned flows better I've sometimes had issues with that primer not adhering as well in the long-run.

@oliverp3545

2 жыл бұрын

Depends how you actually thinned it, some companies sell thinner that adheres better than others, but ultimately you will get a better result as thinning will allow you to create a better transition and not blob out the black, alternatively you can use grey then some white.

@FrostFire600

2 жыл бұрын

@@oliverp3545 Yeah, I'm currently using Vallejo airbrush flow improver as my thinner

question? can you do this technique. with a super dark silver metallic and a light silver metallic? and then paint it with contrast paints to get like different metals?

I love the soft focus it's like watching Doris Day

Looked this up right before I was going to do a zenithal coat with a spray can. Instead, I'm gonna go buy a cheap makeup brush to drybrush on some white in downward strokes. Thanks!

Gotta tell ya, guys. I have a nice Iwata airbrush and compressor that sits in the corner of my room, basically untouched for a year now. Why? I grabbed one (then two!) of those $80 battery operated cordless airbrushes on Amazon, and they're REALLY solid for most of what we do in miniature painting. There's no setup, it just sits there on my hobby table and I grab it on a whim, and never have cords and compressors and stuff all over the place. *ESPECIALLY* if you don't have an airbrush, IMO, they're all you need. Disclaimer: I know there are several types out there on Amazon, but the "Autolock Upgraded Kit" is a really amazing piece of hardware for the price. If you're new to it, also drop like $10 on one of those 21 piece kits with the 3 sized nozzles, cleaners, etc... The extra bittles are nice to have around.

I'm an artist by trade. Miniature painters, if you don't know anything about art, look up how lights and shadows work on different surfaces in regular art. Look up the matte and shiny colorful ball examples, look up the diagrams with the eggs, learn about ambient occlusion. Your shading/highlighting will improve leaps and bounds.

@bsgaming3773

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the direction. Sometimes I find traditional art stuff intimidating. Do you any good tutorial videos or series that give good breakdowns of concepts?

Hi Adam, When using the Zenithal Technique, instead of using White Acrylic Paint, is it ok to DryBrush with White/Grey Surface Primer Paint (i.e., Vallejo Surface Primer or Stynylrez)?

@tabletopminions

2 жыл бұрын

Sure, it should work. Thanks for watching!

@southpaw5483

2 жыл бұрын

@@tabletopminions Thank you for your time and reply. Wishing you well.

One problem I have with this is it leaves a grainy texture, even with an airbrush. Especially with thicker paints. I've been working on diluting a white ink heavily to get it as transparent and thin as I can, but it's still not perfect. Still not gotten a method that's as good as just tinting shadows and highlights afterward with a brush. But I also do this just for the enjoyment of painting rather than predominantly for game use. I didn't think about the drybrush method for doing this. I actually use dry brushing, stippling and feathering with makeup brushes a lot, but never thought about it for a zenithal highlight.

I use GW mechanicus standard grey as my base primer. What would be a good color to zenithal highlight with?

@tabletopminions

Жыл бұрын

Probably white, then. Thanks for watching!

100% use Tamiya white primer, I have always had it turn out very smooth, nice gradient

@wordragon

2 жыл бұрын

I agree. Tamiya doesn't speckle at all.

The cam is actually focused.... this is actually my marvelous eyes trying to understand without glasses what is 5 meters away

Funny. I have more of a problem with “chunky” effects from my airbrush than from a “rattle” can. I generally hate pulling out my airbrush and only really use it on stuff like tanks or terrain- or if I wanna use a wash/contrast paint on a whole army like with Necrons or Nighthaunts.

On the bright side, your set looks awesome.

Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is the only white spray primer that works, though I have switched to an airbursh.

when doing the gray/white steps (after a black primar) through an airbrush, is there any advantage/problems to using standard acrylic paints vs acrylic primar.

@tabletopminions

6 ай бұрын

These days I start with black primer and then spray regular white airbrush paint (Matt White from The Army Painter AIR line) as my highlight. Thanks for watching!

@Outlawdave71

6 ай бұрын

exactly what i needed to know, as well as what i've been doing, thanks for answering@@tabletopminions

how do you/are you supposed to clean your dry brush after you use it?

Thank you I'll try the 3rd option cuz I don't have an airbrush or it is not within the budget ❤

Seems like camera wanted to send us a message... Perhaps we should head out to shelter. Zenithal priming is good especially when painting using glazes/contrast paints. I usually do it, but in some situations I paint with too many layers that cover it completely which makes it kind of pointless. As long as layers are thin zenithal is a way to go.

@johntan4997

2 жыл бұрын

Agreed. I always do zenithal + contrast on mobs or hordes.

Despite having an airbrush, and having used it on scale models, I suck at zenithal priming/highlighting. I always seem to put too much paint down at any angle!

What I started doing is not using white for the zenithal, but rather a bone colour or ivory. This can then be drybrushed with white for highlights within the highlights.

Dry brushing tip from Opus. Don't drybrush with a paper towel, it'll remove properties of the paint and you get a much harsher textured effect. Instead wipe it on a dry rubber pallet or something similar to remove most of the paint.

love your content Uncle atom!, your videos were the main reason why i enter into Age of sigmar, but i wonder if you are going to talk about the latest Gameworshop changes on the age of sigmar warscrolls and such, in AOS second season you were able to get the pdf warscrolls online for free on the site and also you have the warscroll complete on the box you buy, but now, the free warscrols are no longer avaliable online and much worse the new unit boxes only have a patetic warscrolls with only weapons and overall stats, without abilites, forcing you to get the battletome if you want to play with all the power of the mini you buy

@tabletopminions

2 жыл бұрын

I didn’t know about warscrolls being taken off the GW website. That really sucks, and seems like a bad move. Thanks for watching!

sorry to be the citadel/games workshop fanboy but their rattlecans all the way. I went from using one of the standard rustoleum ones to GW's and they are all so silky smooth by comparison. No flaking, no obscured detail, absolutely wonderful.

Vallejo White primer is awesome. It doesn’t leave the grain, and looks in a same way as a black one in terms of texture

White is a hard color to use in paint. Worked at a small chemical company and white coatings/paint had at most a 6 month shelf life before they went weird.

It's a handy priming method if your painting with inks

"In this video uncle Adam show us how he sees the world without his glasses. And how you will see the world when you're 40 and older! " ;)

@timothyyoung2962

2 жыл бұрын

I'm 43 years old... the above statement is spot on.

@bopaintsminis

2 жыл бұрын

Bifocals since I was 40.

@SunDancerGE

2 жыл бұрын

@@bopaintsminis same

@Bluecho4

2 жыл бұрын

Joke's on you! I'm in my early 30s, and my eyes have been garbage for years!

@bopaintsminis

2 жыл бұрын

@@Bluecho4 Oh yeah? Well I paint by Braille!

Tamiya fine white surface primer is great!

those 3 lights in the back are looking better than ever