I see a grey sprue and I want it primed black. No colors anymore I just want it black.

@rzbonilla

5 жыл бұрын

OH, I see you are a man of wealth and taste... Pleased to meet you.

@suranae

5 жыл бұрын

The Metal is strong with you, Traveler.

@Pao-wb4hp

5 жыл бұрын

@@rzbonilla I hope you guessed my name

@rzbonilla

5 жыл бұрын

@@Pao-wb4hp What is puzzling me is the nature of your game...

@IONATVS

5 жыл бұрын

I see the Boyz march by built in a Warrior pose/I have to prime them all 'til none of their plastic shows!

"You can prime your models with any color you want so long as it's black." - Henry Ford

@memphis_sean8169

Жыл бұрын

hmmm....I don't think henry ford said that 😂

@fedos

Жыл бұрын

@@memphis_sean8169 He said it in a panel at GenCon.

@Sam-zz7gs

Жыл бұрын

He said that about the Ford model T. Interestingly enough it was available in essentially any colour you wanted however due to it's increasingly high demand he made it so that it could only be purchased in black.

Had a discussion like this not too long ago on a friend doing Tau, he wanted to hit them with a olive army/camo theme to them. Sent me updates of a drone being sprayed black and then covered in a olive color, and then having a few tans and lighter green splotches on them. I asked why he just didn't prime in Olive Drab of any kind and go from there, save himself a few steps and he went on saying that it would look bad and the panel lines would look wrong. Bet him a 100 bucks that if he just bought a shade and did a olive prime it, he wouldn't notice the final result at the end compared to his first drone, I even said I would reimburse him those supplies if it didn't work. I get a message like the next evening, "You know your not getting that 100 dollars right?" and a pic of the two drones side by side, I just told him your welcome. :P

@charlesgray6385

4 жыл бұрын

Dude owes you 100 bucks hard

@viktornicht260

3 жыл бұрын

@@charlesgray6385 true. Go get em

@culturedrogue1929

3 жыл бұрын

If you'd been wrong he'd wanted his hundo. A bet is a bet

@TheGoldenDragon_

3 жыл бұрын

Did u end up getting that cash? If he didn't pay up, then declare him a welcher for life from this moment on.

@Bananananamann

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheGoldenDragon_ If it was purely digital I'm sure they didn't shake on it, so any bets are null and void.

Being a lazy painter, I always prime in the base colour. Krylon 'Satin' spray can paints are my go to.

Something to be aware of with automotive primers. Some auto primers are self etching. These contain a phosphorous acid and zinc combination which is meant to bond zinc to bare metal to help inhibit rust. There are also epoxy and filler primers which are designed to fill in small gaps in sheet metal. They are thick primers which will obscure model scaled details as that is what those kinds of primers are designed for. Likewise, not all Krylon lines are the same. You don't want to spray down your plastic details with a hot all weather protectant enamel. You run the risk of melting the plastic and although great protection for patio furniture, your space marines may not appreciate sporting a protective crust. I have several bottles of Stynylrez and a box full of the Krylon Camo rattle cans. Both are great, and I use each for different applications. Just be aware that some auto body primers are less than ideal for hobby work. :)

@thebrewgeek

6 жыл бұрын

Definitely agree. Stick with the ones labeled "automotive wet sandable". I've tried three different brands and each performed very well with plastic, even that crazy Reaper "Bones" material.

@johnmcconnell9979

6 жыл бұрын

The Krylon Camo spray seems to have a very fine solid so that it doesn't obscure detail once it's dry. The spray cans made by Rustoleum seem pretty good too.

@johnblack9885

Жыл бұрын

The thing I hate about water-based acrylic primers like Stynelrez or Vallejo is that they are a polyurethane primer which makes it like a flexible latex paint that is not sandable. Personally I prefer a good lacquer-based surface primer such as Tamiya or Mr. Surfacer which are sandable and go on super smooth. Mr. Surfacer is hands down the best primer I have ever used. Forget automotive primers. You are going to waste so much paint in your coverage. Just get yourself a small jar of Mr. Surfacer and cut it with Mr. Leveling Thinner 50/50 and airbrush it on and it will last and save you TONS over wasteful automotive rattle can primers. Also better for the environment by not using disposeable rattle cans going in landfills.

@mrksimka1159

Жыл бұрын

Oh so this is how this photos of space marines with melting heads and faces of Jason Voorhes are born.

On topic of silver primer - GW sells cans of Leadbelcher. Necrons pretty much paint themselves :D

@SciFiPorkChop28

6 жыл бұрын

And a good # of space marine chapters (Silver Skulls, Steel Confessors, maybe Grey Knights, maybe Iron Snakes)... You could also probably do some great weathering on some nurgle-esque mostly metallic traitor legions or even a Tzeentch Thousand Sons offshoot where they spirit inside the armor had let the armor flake and lose it's color)...

@zandosdwarf-king

6 жыл бұрын

Cant imagine dwarvrs without leadbelcher spray.

@olafolafsson2755

6 жыл бұрын

I prime spacemarines silver - then paint the color I wish. over time they weather themselves!

@amonkeywithabigbrain

6 жыл бұрын

Olaf Olafson This is a bit of proper genius lol

@alizard7617

6 жыл бұрын

Grzegorz Zych my friend is arguably the best mini painter in my D&d/ 40k group but he chose necrons due to how easy they are to paint, and I’m just thinking about all that wasted talent; the biggest of Oof’s

As someone who, in 2022, used some of Reaper models which said they don't need to be primed . . . Prime them anyway. Prime everything.

Atom your stuff is always so well done, I basically started my armies because I watched all your videos after stumbling on them by accident about a year ago. I really appreciate you and your vlogs and such, and just like hearing your stories if nothing else. Thank you so much for the hard work you put into your videos! We appreciate you!

I was Art Director at Blue Table Painting for a few years and we often used Rustoleum Red Oxide Primer as a base, then followed up with an acrylic floral spray color when needed. I still use Red Oxide for most of my personal projects. I love the earthy undertone it gives the model.

@austinplaisance4456

5 жыл бұрын

How do you feel about the Rustoleom army camo for me priming up some Death Guards?

From what I have tried, I'm still with grey primer (black on heavy armored models) Colored primers are good for huge models like tanks, aircrafts etc... Gw prices are insanely high, got a grey primer for 4$ in a hardware store and it gave me the same results

Here in the Philippines, a lot of people use either Bosny Flat Black, Grey, or White, which are all industrial/non-hobby primers. They're insanely cheap at around $2 or less, and they stick pretty well on models, without clogging the details. Downside is, because hobbyists in the country use it to death, it's kinda hard to find them in hardware stores nowadays.

Finally got into wargamming, thanks largely in part to your videos, new and old. Love the content!

I actually watched this after going over many forums for suggestions on primer. I have always done a white or black base as stated however i have noticed some really nice paint+ primer cans popping up. So after some adieu i settled on Krylon paint + primer Fire Engine Red for an army that has primarily black and red for its color. The results have been FANTASTIC! The finish was also matte with mild gloss so metal LOOKED the part out of the can. my acrylics have stuck wonderfully too. thanks for spreading the word on this though for everyone to bring their level up a notch and save us ALL some time.

Brilliant, thank you for taking the time to make this! I've always done Black or White. Recently started getting into warhammer. Got the Khorne Demons start collecting set. Primed it all with "Mephiston Red" Saved me so much time compared to before. Used your Rattle can video for that one.

Thanks for this video, definitely is going to help finish some projects as well as armies that I’m stripping and repainting, gives me some more motivation.

Completely agree. I am currently building the War Mumak of Harad from Games Workshop and I got two primers. A grey for the Oliphaunt and black for the creatures tower. The grey allows me to apply a wash almost right away.

Good info as always. I don't use anything but the Krylon Fusion paints and have had continual success in all weather conditions. The trick in cold(or humid) weather is to heat the paint and the models. I put my models on a paint stir stick, turn up the furnace and close the door to one of the bathrooms, run the spray paint under hot water for 3-4 minutes...then grab my models and paint, go outside and spray 'em real quick, then back in the(now warm) bathroom to cure. 100% success...have painted 6 Infinity armies that way. I worked for a collision shop for a few years as an estimator and this is very similar to how your car gets painted. Think about it...the busiest time of year for auto body shops is during the worst weather. You don't have to wait six months to get your car fixed because its too cold to paint.

For the traditional white/black/grey in the UK I have been using Halfords (vehicle store in the UK) Matt primers. Super cheap & the best results! Applies really smooth and even priming layers. For colours I love the GW colour sprays, I used to use Army Painter colour sprays but fell out of love with the coverage & thickness of the pigment when sprayed on the model.

Thanks very much for the tips on the vallejo primer colors. I was not aware for some reason. I hate spraying out side. It's windy half the time.

I haven't been able to find the krylon at my local hardware store or walmart, but I picked up the rustoleum camouflage black and it is very matte. Phenomenal results.

This guy right here. This guy deserves support for his contribution to the community.

@tabletopminions

5 жыл бұрын

I appreciate it. Thanks for watching!

Another great video. And one that I wish was around 2 years ago when I started. I found out about the wait time for airbrush primer the hard way. Something that has helped with priming and wait time is project planing. If I know that when I finish painting these X models I want to paint Y models. Then I better prime the Y models before I finish the X models. I have made that mistake and lost almost a day of painting. Still make it on occasion.

Thanks uncle Adam, always informative

The Krylon Camo paints work because they're part of the Krylon Fusion line, which is specifically made to bond to plastic, as well as being an "ultra-flat". Any Krylon Fusion color would bond, but be careful of anything glossy.

Can I say firstly, that I really like your channel/ videos. Very clear, easy to understand, great content and you defiantly have a great orator's voice! I'm a mid level painter. In that I've entered a local painting competition, with the Anniversary Primaris Captain in the colour scheme of the Crimson Sabre's 4th Company, of which I won! However I really struggle with some techniques (wet blending) that most good painters find a breeze. I decided to take a page out of Black Library's First Heretic with the 4th company of the Sabre's, (consisting of a start collecting Space Marines, Dark Imperium, Talons of the Emperor and Inquisitor Greyfax which I already had), being on probation, as ordered by Guilliman and overseen by Greyfax with a detachment of the not at all OP Custodies. I now have a 2k list for the Crimson Sabre's. My clearly quite over explained question is; is there a way to get a 'clean' drybrush of Space marines/ Primaris armour for highlighting? So far I have done, Ad Mec grey base, then blue-tac'ed the shoulders, backpack, kneepads and mephiston red spray, then done a quite lengthy brush mid and high, highlight. for both the red armour and the white pauldrons, knee pads etc. I find this, coupled with guns, melee weapons, leather pouches and the imperial crests and such extra banter, very time consuming. Worst still, as I have done a couple of squads really well, I'm less able (or willing) to cut corners and have a lack of consistency across my army. I'm planning to do a Deathwatch list/ kill team (probably both) and the new AOS Wraiths. What I want is to achieve good results with easy, or efficient to apply techniques that don't involve me going into a cave for the next year to complete! Can you give me some suggestions, please? P.s I don't own/ can afford an Airbrush.

dude I love your videos. Brown is a go to background/base colour for classic oil painters. so yeah

i use white for brighter colors and greys for everything else maybe black

Getting back into miniature war gaming after a 10-year layoff, the world of good colored primers has really changed my painting, in a very good way. Great advice here, Uncle Atom!

I'm really glad I've seen this video. I'm getting back into 40k with Imperial Guard; they have a mostly blue uniform, so basing in blue is going to save me tons of time.

Jut a heads up, if you're in the US, you can buy a can of stuff called Quick Color for 97 cents a can at a hardware store like Home Depot. It goes on thin, even, dries fast, and always etches well into both pewter and plastic. I've tried everything from Citadel to Armory (please don't use Armory it's god-awful) and this spray blows everything else out of the water. The only downside is you can only get gloss black, flat black, and gloss white. But at 97 cents a pop you'll never need black primer again.

@armageddon_gaming

4 жыл бұрын

Happen to have a video of using that because it seems no one else can verify this? I'm new to this and I went straight to painting to save money sonI skipped the primer. Also a lot of people are talking about the whole "pick the right color to save time" point. Is there a clear colored primer?

I mostly use GWs primers (mainly because of ease of access), but I have found most of them to be very good if shaken good before starting. And the added bonus of them being a decent match to their other paints is good. Their metalics seem to dry almost too smooth, and you can have some issues with washes pooling oddly straight on the primer, so I always do a quick once over with the corresponding paint (it also lets me touch up any places I might have gotten a thin coat etc)

When talking primer it seems the conversation always centers around saving a step or how the primer color effects the base coat. Personally I would like to focus on achieving the highest quality result. You can get a awesome result with Rustoleum primer if you understand how it works with temperature, humidity, and have good can control. Im fortunate to live in TX where I can spray rattle can all year and prefer it to using Vallejo through the air brush. That being said I've never heard anyone address pigment size or how a $10 Tamiya primer compares to a $3 can of Rustoleum.

Thanks. I'd heard good stuff about Krylon but didn't know why. I'll look to see if you produced a clear coat video. I'm looking for a good coat for my SM's, IG, Necrons and Team Yankee.

I have been hunting for a can of gloss black primer, can only find paint+primer. Still terrified to try but you gave me the confidence to at least try it on a test model

I always have the intention of doing things like fancy pre made bases and getting things like a decent primer to miss a step, but I always crumble and get more models been as my money is always short. I really just need to do it some time, especially if I use your shading tricks with a couple of colours.

4 Warhammer 40k Armies done using those camo paints, found mine at Walmart under $4 a can. Great tip!

I love Vallejo as well. Btw They sell the auto primer at Walmart. It’s good stuff. The regular stuff works also especially the rustolium paint and primer in One. Sure they less forgiving than the fine mist GW/Tamiya primers. Army painter is not fine mist so for me they are too expensive since they are the same paint rustolium/krylon paint. The regular big box store primers have gotten much better! I say, as long as your 12in away and slowly sweeping and moving you’ll be fine. Now with fine mist I can’t mess it up even if I tried

@Zacknafin

6 жыл бұрын

Figures Of Perfection i have been striking out on getting this at my local store. They dont offer it via weborder. Made me sad due to the good results vs price.

@TriptonStudios

6 жыл бұрын

Zacknafin really your local Walmart doesn’t have it ? How about Home Depot ?

Grey primer best primer, work up, work down. No problems my dudes.

I always prime with Halfords Grey. Never found another rattlecan primer even remotely as consistent.

@omarspost

3 жыл бұрын

Not enough people know about Halfords spray paint. It's very well rated, even in the automotive market.

@hiddenleaf414

2 жыл бұрын

@@omarspost Bu that doesn’t mean anything in the mini world. Plenty of auto sprays use different chemicals to help stick or coat to the metals on automobiles better, that can ruin the plastic on minis.

Good stuff, Atom (?) - your vids are always useful and informative!

I've been able to prime all year round by creating a "priming room" near my 3d printing room - I have a cardboard box I spray inside that sits right next to an open window, and it's dry enough in that back room that even on rainy days my ratthe cans work fine. Unfortunately that's led to a bit of mold on the walls but it's nothing some vinegar and cleaning spray can't fix. Very thankful to not be locked out of a big part of this hobby half the year - I live in upstate NY and currently don't own an airbrush 😅

Did my first priming job today on some old dinosaur toys my partner had lying around. Experimenting with B/W and Grey/White zenithal highlight for my Star Wars Legion core set.

@allanwright8790

6 ай бұрын

How did the grey/white turn out?

Thanks for the primer on primers.

One Type i have found alot of Luck with are the Rustoleum Ultra-Cover. They are meant to be a paint and primer in one, but i have not had an issue. THey also bond to plastic, or resin very well, like the Krylon Fusion.

Silver can be a good base for red. Fewer coats to get to full red than white and lifts the red giving it more depth

Vallejo Hobby spray cans are a must for Bolt action players. I was able to get both my US Airborne in under a week as the primer painted the uniform for me.

My favorite primer is Testors Grey, but my favorite "Story" is that of the mother who thinks that "All Weather" enamel is acceptable. Once when I did not have the room the spray figures, and I used a brush on primer. I haven't been able to find that kind of primer recently.

@gregoryroth5527

6 жыл бұрын

Agree with Testors Grey for small detail of color is not needed.

@danmorgan3685

6 жыл бұрын

You can make a brush on primer using acrylic gesso. I don't have the old formula but I recall it being from a video off Cool Mini Or Not. Now I use straight gesso which works pretty well.

@DanielAlves-tn3wu

6 жыл бұрын

If I need to, I use Vallejo's airbrush primer as brush in and it works well enough for me. The first coat will be uneven, but that disappears when I apply my base coat on top of it

@coloquialist

6 жыл бұрын

Vallejo Makes pretty decent brush on. though not many colors... Grey: smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-Grey-Primer-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B005HXHNPA Black: smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-Black-Primer-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B004BN5RUU/ White: smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-White-Primer-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B004BMZVBQ/

@DanielAlves-tn3wu

6 жыл бұрын

They actually have more than that. I know I saw a red one on my LFGS once, and a quick search on Amazon found this: smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-RAL8012-German-Brown-Paint/dp/B005D85FH2/ among other results

can you please recommend a good dark grey spray paint? :) for my nightgoblins to get washed black afterwards (the gw mechanicus one is a little bright for my taste). Thanks for the input! :)

What color would you recommend if the camo to do red and white paint scheme of space marines

Awesome Video! Thanks a lot ! Greetings from Brazil.

Whats your thoughts on brush on primer? I'm really considering going with airbrush priming, b/c i am terrible with rattle can priming here in the Southeast.

Love your work. Chitinous etc are prounounced with hard k sound like kitinous plating or kitin instead of chitin!!

Until today I primed everything in grey, and honestly the difference is amazing when your using brighter main colours like red or yellow. But yes primer is king, even if it’s not specifically plastic primer.

I use a general purpose rattle can primer made by Colorgin. I think it's only available here in Brazil, but it's now been bought by Sherwin Williams.

hi I got a question I was thinking of getting Mr color gray inner frame but I don't know kind of primer do I use for a zoids

Hi if I'm painting my car a dark grey. What color primer should I use.

I'm new to the hobby, in your experience is citadel or armer painter primer higher quality for minis vs krylon?

Excellent video Uncle Atom.

I have decided to use retributor armor for the armor color for my tau, and purple for any cloth bits. I have used Vallejo “German dark yellow” primer but is there a primer you know of that would save me a step?

I've had this debate so many times, I find some 'experts' advise new folk the most difficult techniques, like priming a bright coloured model black, then you see the same 'experts' mocking the new guys for having really thick layers of paint. It's just daft these days. BTW Vallejo German army red brown primer is awesome for deeper reds xD

Your video on the Krylon Camouflage sold me on it and I've been using the black, brown, light tan, and olive colours ever since. Unfortunately, my local Canadian Tire doesn't stock it anymore, so I'm going to have to find a new supplier.

I was just earlier today trying to find a spray on primer in brown since GW don't do Mournfang anymore, I just can't find any in the UK.

I prime and base using whatever spray paint will match the colors I plan to paint, i find they all work as long as the finish is matte

i am about to paint my 1970 el camino midnight blue pearl so in urethane with black primer i was told to use a dark primer becouse a light primer would bleed trough is this right.Larry Broad

I did loads of stuff in black primer space marine wise with maccrage blue on top, if I change to grey will my color of miniatures change ?

when I was painting the Marvel DC game from knight models when I was done the paint was rubbing off the metal ones so I just paint another coat of the same color and it has not wiped off. I’ve been painting bolt action metal and plastic miniatures without priming them and I had no issues with the paint coming off. Is primer just another reason to waste your money?

I have tire raised tire letters which are rubber & I've applied red Rust-Oleum spray paint by using a brush, but it starts to peel & I can see the white coming through because originally that's what they were, so should I use gray primer underneath, this is what I heard

I have problem.. I'm paintin Black templars and I couldn't find a black color that is same as Abaddon Black. GW primer (Chaos black) is bit different so I still have to base coat it after.

Vellejoy has a silver primer Uncle Atom! Split on a suitcase from Vellejoy with a coworker. Also, good to know about the 24h dry time. I've not been doing that... Will start to think/work ahead.

What do you do for priming if your model is half dark color like blue and the other half is a light color like white or light grey?

I’ve been undercoating my orcs black and then heavy dry brushing them with brown as a base to build up from. Today I’ve bought khandri dust in a can, so let’s see how it does for them and for Gandalf!

I've been on the fence about using krylon primers and other primers that are non hobby brand. Can I use any krylon primer or do I have to research what selection of non hobby primer I can use?

Would a grey primer be suitable for something like blood ravens space marines? Not sure whether the primer is black or grey would influence the base coat that much? (obviously white over black if you are painting something bright)

i want to paint my model with tamiya met sliver what kind of primer should i use and will met.sliver give me a good gloss look or should i use a tamiya clear coat i need help with this can you help i'm useing spray cans thank you

I use grey as my primer. I always count my primer as the "layer 0", it's the base layer that's gonna decide the rest. But saving a step is always good too

What type of mic are you using? The pick up and quality is really good.

I have Rustoleum painters touch. Black, grey, white.and clear. Black, grey and white to prime depending on the model I'm using. (usually zenathal prime unless I use my airbrush for that.) then after I'm done painting I use the clear to varnish it. works well, it's 340g for just under $10 canadian from homedepot. they tend to have a lot of different colors as well.

Thanks for the info. Still kind of confused though. Trying to decide on a primer for the Warhammer Wood Elf Glade Guard Regiment. Was lucky to find them a few years back and it sucks that they no longer exist in Warhammer along with the Brettonian Knights. I like fantasy miniatures, especially Elves. Wondering what you would recommend? the elf skin tone is light, but wanted to paint the cloak and clothing dark green along with the darker brown for the boots and leather. Seems like you would need to use a black primer for the cloak and leather/clothing to get the shadows and white or maybe grey for the skin?? Sorry, I'm old school D&D from the 80's. Back then there wasn't all this cool stuff. Your local hobby store selection was basically Testors enamel paints and not a great selection of paint brushes. Did many a disappointing hack paint job on my metal mini's.Recently been trying to get back into the hobby. Very overwhelming now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I just use grey Rust-Oleum and it seems to do the trick. What is that in the area of primers for miniatures?

Yeah when I brush on Vallejo primer, I found it needs at least 24 hours to cure on metal. On plastic, it can be a litter earlier but I prefer to let it sit for a day before working on the next colour.

"In my airbursh room..." Uncle Atom, will you be my actual uncle?

Hello I got myself an acrylic lacquer spray paint can this be used. I tried the spray it gives the coarse touch of primer. Your views pls?

I was told a cheaper white primer wouldnt be very smooth is there a brand of white spray can primer youd recommend

I actually like using Death Guard Green for priming, I tried Krylon fusion italian olive which is cheaper then GW rattle cans and pretty good for painting Death Guard but I didn't like how it covered. I digress so far I have used DGG for death guard units and for gryph-chargers from the stormcast and I found that it doesn't really negatively effect the colours I put over it as it is very middle of the road like Standard Grey is but it is warmer then Grey. It is really nice for reds, browns, and greens.

A newbie here. I've been looking for a substitute for the Citadel primer which is super expensive in my country. I found a local brand with a Primer Surfacer grey that gives my miniatures a smooth surface without the glossy part. It only cost me around 1.5 dollars.

I'm fairly new to painting miniatures. I use rustoleum black or white. My problem is that after I prime a model and let it completely dry my base paint take several coats to stop the black from bleeding through. It literally will take 3 days base painting a model to let each layer dry because I can't get the primer covered up. I'm using citadel paint so it's not cheap hobby paint. I don't know if i'm putting too much primer on or if it's too thick. Is that a thing? Any ideas?

Thank you for making this video

hi ? whats the best primer in mint green color ? pls notice me

For white priming and for UK folks, Halfords white plastic primer works great. For any other colours though I use Vallejo myself.

Krylon Camo is the only primer I use now the stuff is amazing. The primer holds like mad and leaves a sand paper like coating that just sucks up paint.

What do you think about Liquitex spray paints for primer? I got some for extremely cheap

Vallejo's airbrush primer is great for a thin base coat which leaves a lot of the detail showing. That is the major problem with rattle can primers it can obscure the details sometimes...but Uncle Atom is correct you have to let it sit for at least 24 hours..I learned that the hard way when I was painting and the primer started coming off D:

i don't do competition stuff so I use my artist quality gesso as a primer (never the "craft" standard which is student paints) and artist quality paints. I get more paint for my buck in volume. And I need the artist paints for my paintings anyway.

Working on my relaunch of my 1980"s dwarven space miners so grey spray was the way of the day.

the primer im using is the krylon colormaster covermax Ultra flat black primer for my homebrew chapter.

I always use Rust-Oleum auto primer light grey. You can easily go light or dark in one thin, sometimes two coats regardless of the color. I've had far more problems trying to cut corners by trying to prime in the base color of the model. That usually requires me to do two or more coats for all the colors that aren't the base color, which are always the details which require more attention and care to hit. I would rather do a quick sloppy base coat in the beginning, than have to do extra detail work in the end. And sometimes the colors don't look right even after four or more coats.

If you buy spray paint on a can will it work on plastic models as long as it's acrylic based?

Here in the UK, for priming, I'll use Halfords matt black or grey sprays. Absolutely brilliant, good pressure in the cans and great coverage for 32mm scale down to 15mm scale that I game usually. I would suggest staying away from Plastic Soldier Company sprays, the seam on the cans are prone to leaking, and the pressure/paint content is so anaemic a butterfly several hundred metres away that beats its wings will blow the spray away before it reaches the model.

Can you prime twice?? I mean, I primed my deamon in black but I feel it will be much easier to paint if I prime it on grey 🤔 Thanks!

Light Green primer works well for Gretchen and Ork Boys with a lot of skin and Catachan Jungle fighter camouflage. A dark green wash or ink over the light green primer creates a decent skin tone or camo look.