For a 2-piece anchor using the girth hitch, twist one strand like you started to do as if you are making a sliding x, and then girth hitch the master carabiner. This way if one strand comes unclipped from an anchor point and slips through the knot, the master carabiner will still be captured by the sling, very similar to why you put the twist in the sliding x.

This is sick. Overhand knots use up so much sling and are a hassle to undo. This is far superior. What have I been doing all this time 🤦‍♂

If anybody is wondering about slippage on girth or clove check out how not to highline they break test almost everything including this demo im also starting to b a fan

A few times you said “clove hitch”. Am I correct that in all of your examples it was actually a girth hitch?

@NorthEastAlpineStart

3 жыл бұрын

Correct... I did like 12 takes and still managed to misspeak. Sorry for any confusion that caused! When I get a chance I will be redoing this video to fix that!

How do justify the lack of true redundancy? Just be confident enough the clove hitch or girth hitch won't slip enough for the entire thing to fail if part of the system fails?

@NorthEastAlpineStart

3 жыл бұрын

Testing has demonstrated that it won’t slip under forces generated in climbing situations. The forces required to make it slip are beyond FF2 type forces, so this does offer “true” redundancy in the practical sense.

@jarenstrandlie8552

3 жыл бұрын

@@NorthEastAlpineStart I did some more digging and you are pretty much correct. Girth is preferred to clove from what I've read. So simple. I like it

@jbdavisnc

3 жыл бұрын

I still like that the clove is just as easy to tie and less slippy than a girth hitch using 2 pieces and dyneema sling. But it got me wondering how you'd even tie a clove with 3 or 4 pieces. I suppose the girth hitch is king there. Also, have you seen the method of twisting one of those loops to form a sliding X before you slip the loops into the MC to form the girth hitch? This does close the system off and makes it truly redundant.

@ryant7815

3 жыл бұрын

@@NorthEastAlpineStart can you track down the testing source, I'd love to see that. It's always comforting to see evidence-based climbing practices. --Cheers!

Bro you keep saying cove instead of girth

@NorthEastAlpineStart

3 жыл бұрын

Correct... I did like 12 takes and still managed to misspeak. Sorry for any confusion that caused! When I get a chance I will be redoing this video to fix that!

I don't know why you wouldn't just be doing a sliding X here. Why you would be girth hitching anything on your master point especially dyneema as it's known to lose 50% of its strength in that knot and then you've got clove and girth mixed up. For the sake of your own credibility i would just take this video down and rethink, re-shoot it.

@NorthEastAlpineStart

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Timothy, thanks for the comments. This has become a more common practice, multiple highly trained and certified guides are endorsing the practice, and I'm not sure what source you are using to quote a 50% loss of strength but that's simply not true. Sliding X is also an available option but lacks redundancy in the individual legs... the girth hitch adds redundancy... I would like to create a more polished video on this without mis-speaking (good catch on the clove hitch mention)... If I can find the time I will!

@NorthEastAlpineStart

2 жыл бұрын

New research further justifying this application : staff.weber.edu/derekdebruin/research/girthhitch.pdf?fbclid=IwAR3w5EJ0xnOnkEM0Qsdn7mmSJ2tIV2PwLZRmBC_a0DkvQe33AQrKsxhjDQ0