The sensor reduces low speed cogging. It's really useful in rc rock crawlers when you are doing low speed precision driving.

@wvlfkvnt

2 ай бұрын

Yet you see Holmes run a 1400 revolver sensorless with the same low speed control with no cogging with a Copperhead 10.

My man! Back at it again!!! I forgot to wish you and your family a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year! Thank you for your contributions sir.

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Jeffrey. Hope you and yours had a wonderful Christmas and you have a happy New Year!

I started following this channel because of a thorough LED headlight review... I had no idea then, that it would crossover into my other hobbies &.even more thorough testing... Glad I stuck around.

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you stuck around too. Every view comes a little closer to paying for this mess. And I'm still MILES away from that. Thanks!

A very timely discussion on sensorship. Thank you

Nice I’m digging your test station

Great demonstration, thanks! :)

Just Subbed good stuff keep doing what you are doing man.

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Nick!

You say the difference is startup but didn't let the people know that for turbo timing and boost timing advance it needs to be sensored . Keep up the good work ,I try to make constructive criticism.i am looking forward to your results I have a 6 cyl supra I wanna boost . Please get some data with advanced timing applied

Thank you, very usefull information!

definitely can see the difference!

Do you have a link to the sensor wire adapter

Friend, I bought a hobbywing sensored 10bl120a g2 sensored esc, do you use any 540 sensored motor on it? I'm wanting a surpass 13.5 T sensored? Does the motor being sensored work on it? I already have 2 esc 10bl120a g1 hobbywing, I didn't quite understand the issue of changing to g2!

I don't think anyone will ever accuse you of having low production quality!

Thank you ❤

No cussing so the video will remain uncensored

@jimw8016

Жыл бұрын

UNTIL...the powers that be feel this is a threat. Then, it'll be gone!

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

lol

Thank you for the excellent demonstration, I have one question, where did you get the toothed belt drive belt and wheels from please?

@AlexLTDLX

7 ай бұрын

I believe I got them from McMaster-Carr, iirc.

@paulmcdonough9595

7 ай бұрын

Thank you for your reply I shall check them out

Finally you post something I can understand... lol

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

Lol. I think I've said this before - don't feel bad, I'm learning "on the job" here in a lot of cases. I do enjoy it immensely though. Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing.

The sensor really controls it well! BTW What is your step up ratio? It's really looking good!

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

14 tooth motor pulley, 18 tooth impeller pulley. 0.78:1 (i.e. multiply motor speed by 0.78 to get impeller speed).

Horry wing have 70125 sensor motor look like more powerful . Will you consider this model ?

@AlexLTDLX

9 ай бұрын

That motor, despite being larger and heavier, is actually less powerful - at least going by ratings alone. It no doubt makes more torque, but a less rpm - and you need both torque and rpm to make power. It's not a bad motor by any means, it's just not as well suited to the job.

How does it support 230A? The wire is not even the right gauge

You should test the current draw with sensored vs sensorless with heavy load, on the "inverter world" the sensored can accomplish the same power a sensorless unit with way less current. Since it can efficient "fire" the stators, with some inverters we can even overclock some eletric motors, to spin faster what they are designed, only with sensored of course... We use encoder with at least 2048PPR(Pulse per revolution) i dunno the resolution of the sensored unit you have, would be nice to know

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

I had never heard of that. I'll test that in the next video. I'm building a massive battery box to minimize voltage drop and I'll retest. Thanks.

would have really helped if you somehow would tried to stall/change speed of the motor sensored vs sensorless , which would explain the main reason on having sensored motors.

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

The main reason for sensors is when the back EMF is too low or nonexistent and can't be read by the ESC. Startup is the #1 scenario for justifying sensors, hands-down. Changes in speed once the motor's spinning over a couple of hundred rpm aren't a problem. In fact, over a few thousand rpm, most ESCs no longer use sensors, simply back EMF. Changing speeds (or simply trying to stall a motor - which on an almost 20 hp motor can be quite dangerous) isn't a good indicator of sensored vs sensorless operation.

Nice!

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Is the Forum down? I can't reach it.

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

It's not down, but there's a problem with the security settings. I can get to it, but I've got it whitelisted. We're working on it.

@mikedinsmoor

Жыл бұрын

@@AlexLTDLX Thanks!

NICE DRILLED ROTOR

You can hear the difference too, with bigger motors it is way more perceptive

Check out the APD 200F3X, 200A 14S ESC for $189 and it's made in Australia. EDIT: The price has apparently gone up they are $209 now, still a bargain though.

it's a 20k rpm motor, but with the sensor it gets 35k rpm, so the sensor increases the final speed too?

@AlexLTDLX

5 ай бұрын

No. It's a 45,000-50,000 rpm motor.

I hear the difference in the starting, sensor prevents overrun

Just use a good speed controller that allows pole setting with 32-bit processing ,pwm adjustment along with fuzzy logic and your motor will love you for it.. .

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

That sounds great. Now who makes such a thing (that actually works like it should - VESC certainly doesn't at high eRPM), where can I buy it and can it handle at least 50 volts and 300 amps? I'd actually love to see an affordable answer to my awesome 800 amp, 63 volt MGM ESC that's powering the Sledgehammer unit. I'm all ears, seriously.

@practicalhacktical4495

Жыл бұрын

@@AlexLTDLX Have you tried the new 6.0 firmware and tool that just came out? They just fixed a lot of bugs and have a new silent HFI mode.

You're boutta have swaths of RC hobbyists in your comment section cuz of the hw/castle combo

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

Lol - I'm noticing that... I want to really hammer this combo with some serious batteries for much less voltage drop.

FWIW you can probably make that "proprietary" adapter yourself for like $3.

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, but what kind of connector are they using (the round one)? And considering they sell the adapter for $4.99, it's kind of tough to justify the time invested. As always, I appreciate you watching, commenting and subscribing.

@802Garage

Жыл бұрын

@@AlexLTDLX Took way more digging than I expected, but I THINK it's an Amphenol 6 pin connector. Not certain though. Many similar designs. They actually did pick one that's hard to find. For $5 though, definitely not worth making your own.

@802Garage

Жыл бұрын

Scratch that the Amphenol is probably way too large. I'm certain it's a readily available connector. Probably for some sort of radio connector. Just can't find it.

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

I appreciate you trying to find it. I didn't even look, to be honest. Just not worth the effort, and I've never seen a connector like it. The closest thing is a Lemo connector (we use those a lot on equipment at work), but Lemos are a tiny bit bigger, far better made and cost an obscene amount of money: tinyurl.com/bdfw46r8 Plus the layout is a little different. Here's the corporate website: www.lemo.com/en

@802Garage

Жыл бұрын

@@AlexLTDLX Honestly, since you have a pigtail before the connector anyways, would make way more sense to just cut off their connector and put the non-proprietary connector on hahaha. Didn't even think of it until now.

💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕

At least in the RC car world even a sensored setup will only run sensored at very low RPM. They switch to unsensored mode once they get above that startup RPM. Because of this unless you actually need that really fine granularity at startup there's no advantage to a sensored setup.

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

Yes, I said that in the video. The other benefit (also in the video) is the elimination of start up current spikes. I've had two ESCs die from that. And they were expensive ones... almost $3,000 worth of ESCs... I have videos on them.

@DoRC

Жыл бұрын

@@AlexLTDLX gotcha. Yeah I didn't see it specifically mentioned that it switched over to sensorless in the video but I must have missed it. I don't think current spikes will be an issue with this ESC. I would imagine you're going to get a lot less current spike starting up that blower than you would starting a 40 lb RC car moving from a dead standstill. It's one nice thing about the RC ESCs. They're extremely robust.

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

Unfortunately, those current spikes are very real - here's a $1,700 APD ESC failing less than a second after startup (and almost burning down my house and making a 4" diameter puddle of molten aluminum under the car): kzread.info/dash/bejne/kaJqyqaLo7DAlJs.html

@DoRC

Жыл бұрын

@@AlexLTDLX I wonder if it's from going from zero to 100%, so quickly. The hobbywing ESCs have what's known as punch control and by default it's set somewhere in the middle so it won't allow itself to go from 0 to 100% too quickly. In RC this is to prevent destroying parts on the car but in your application it may very well prevent a huge current spike as well. Maybe not though just spitballing.

when hands move as if they are lips, lol

That plug might be a Julet plug.

@AlexLTDLX

Жыл бұрын

That does look very close. I've never heard of those before (I was saying the closest was a Lemo, but it's obviously not). Great eye! Thanks!

@skysurferuk

Жыл бұрын

@@AlexLTDLX Another type might be HiGo, an older version. Julet plugs are mostly used on e-bikes. Good content. 👍

do you have any motors you arent trying ypu wanna sell

your hands give me anxiety lol

Get a rc and put that setup to use lol

lol @ "this whole video should be censored"