I never realized how much more fun it was to drive around with a sensored motor even for a basher untill I put one in. I have a sensored castle in my arrma outcast and it suddenly gave it a bunch of new abilities. It can smoothly crawl up and down my foot and over rocks in the extremely slow sensored range. I didn't expect it to make such a difference on a basher but it gained some light crawling ability which is fun and I never had experienced before.

I have many 1/10 on road touring cars and made a transition to sensored motors for some of my cars a few years ago. I didn’t really notice the difference until I drove a car that had a sensor less motor. The difference is significant. I really like the smooth starts of the sensored motors for on road cars and are overall “smoother” throughout the entire throttle range. I only have HW Quicrun and XR10 sensored esc’s and motors. the sensorless ESC’s I have a are Castle Sidewinder 3’s and the 4600/5700 kv motors.

Your videos are a total different level. Thank you.

@RCexplained

Жыл бұрын

Glad you think so!

I thought I understood sensored setups until burning out a 140A ESC somehow. It seemed completely fine at first and I was amazed at the slow crawling ability and smooth throttle control. Then I started testing out the torque which was the point of it for me, to avoid the non-start situation of locked wheels from too much resistance in things like tall grass. That had previously overheated the stock ESC trying to 'cog' over obstacles too many times. The sensored pair is using a 2400Kv instead of the stock 3200 so I figured that would also help my torque. It didn't take much of me testing the torque (slow crawling over a pile of clothes) to bring it into what I thought was an overtemp shutdown, but it turned out I burned up the ESC throttle control and only the BEC still worked. So now I'm a little puzzled in that I just put the 80A stock sensorless ESC back on while keeping the sensored 2400Kv in there, and am able to "cog-crawl" my way around totally fine for long periods without anything overheating. I can only imagine outside of just a bad ESC, that the sensored action of slow crawling over obstacles must be putting immense stress on the ESC relative to just trying to jolt over them with a sensorless setup. I'm wondering if during my slow crawling it just happened to reach a point of high resistance and forced its way through, while also generating enough heat to kill something (capacitors eventually violently leaked) after trying to factory reset what I thought was just some calibration issue.) I don't know if this is accurate though.. but if so, I'd imagine I could still use the sensored ESC if I replace it, and be able to slow crawl my way around a lot, but have to be wary that there may be no way for the ESC to detect too much of a load on it before it self destructs.

@RCexplained

6 ай бұрын

its hard to tell without knowing your full setup or any data.

@Magneticitist

6 ай бұрын

​@@RCexplained I realize now the ARRMA 3s Big Rock is probably just too heavy of a rig to be trying that even if I were to gear down also. I just wanted it to cog less since I do a lot of slow driving in FPV (whichs adds a bit of extra weight). I figured the sensored stuff could also just help me crawl better in a creeping slowly sense, not an actual crawling over rocks sense. So really the issue is not knowing how much stress any particular load on the motor/esc is at the time if it's able to basically crawl over it without me having any feedback. With the standard ESC I know when the load is too great cause it just cogs out. Either way it was just confusing seeing a stock BLX100 (which a lot of people call crap) always work well for me with stock tires no matter what kind of slow-crawling or fast grass driving abuse I gave it... but then that 140A sensored ESC craps out on me almost without any warning before I ever ran it anything close to as hard as the BLX100. I may just do a second identical test on the next one here in a few days and if it burns out try to make it work with like a Max8 or something. Or Monster X. Really kind of wasting money here on it cause I've already got a Copperhead coming I'm going to try til my Max10 replacement comes haha. Only thing I'm not sure of is cross brand pairing of sensored ESCs and motors. Hopefully the hobbywing motor I still have in there is compatible with the copperhead in sensored mode.

@Magneticitist

6 ай бұрын

@@RCexplained Ok so for what it's worth since I've bugged you about it I think it may have just been a fluke with the Hobbywing. I've been running the Copperhead 10 as a placeholder and it has worked out totally fine. Doesn't seem to mind moving that Big Rock around at all, even slowly over moderate obstacles. The PWM just sounds like crap on it which is why I'm still going back to the Hobbywing when it comes. I did notice that this Copperhead ESC has a default 'initial throttle' setting where it's set to low power. Maybe the Hobbywing is at higher power by default.. so basically it may try to force its way through an immovable object until the fets die or wires melt. The Copperhead just seems to crap out since it's not set to supply an infinite current.

Great tutorial on when sensors are useful. I’ve noticed that HW has developed a hybrid Sensored mode that the user can set to rely on the sensor up to a point in acceleration. I’d love to see a tutorial on the XR8 Plus and all the newer Gen3 features. Like coasting and being able to specify where in the RPM band the turbo activates. I’m not sure is this is like Castle or if it is different… You have been really great about explaining the subtle differences so I think you would be the right person to compare and contrast what Castle has and where HW is heading… I hope that HW decides to add this same programmability to their newer Max4 ESC… I’ve noticed that when using the Max4 with the recommended HW70125 - 560kv motor, it actually produces more power/RPM to the motor under load (42lb Losi 5iveT 2.0). the data logs even show around 36k RPM, which is well over what it should be doing. I set the motor parameters to match the motor’s specs and data logs continue to show that really high RPM. This is when the sensor is connected. In sensorless mode, it seems to be more of what I expect. So, if you could explain what is happening to get these “over spec” results from the motor under high load, then that would really really help!

@murrijuana2842

11 ай бұрын

Hmm, interesting 🤔

Nice

Love your videos...and thank you for the spreadsheets

@RCexplained

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment SpeedyBrute!

I prefer sensored motors because of the following: motor temp cutoff, and smooth start transitions

@RCexplained

Жыл бұрын

Absolutely.

please how how many resistance of ohms has a coil original rc brushless engine thank you

Hey Buddy, can you explain how the timing boost works with sensored motors? I commented on the video yesterday with a comment about “turbo”, and I do like the boost and smoothness I get from sensored motors. I do use a sensored setup racing, but also enjoy a sensored setup bashing, and notice the difference in my road cars moreso.

@RCexplained

Жыл бұрын

Boost within the ESC typically meant changing fixed timing from a minimum RPM to a maximum threshold. Once at max timing was held constant. This is an old method of timing control for sensored motors. A better way for the esc to handle this is once the motor is running smooth switch to sensorless mode and alter timing based off of load, throttle input, rpm, etc.

one of those sensored motors has eaten this guy's cereal

@RCexplained

Жыл бұрын

Nah, my sensored motors are well trained and are always on their best behavior.

Can I run 2650 kv castle motor on smartsense yet set the timing in sensorless without using the sensor wires at all?will the timing work?

@RCexplained

11 ай бұрын

When timing is set manually, it is for sensorless operation.

@FLG1908

11 ай бұрын

@RCexplained I ran fee passes sensorless mode on mamba monster 6s,I'm using 4s my timing was set at 10 yet it seems to heat up fast..my gearing is ok..I'm setup up is for 32pitch..my ratio is 20 pinion and 42t spur in running on 2650kv..

I'm running a Reedy 540-FT 21.5 with a Vesc 6 MKIII. The application is a 1/12 scale Tamiya Hauler Truck. I'm currently running it sensorless and it's cogging like a MF . It's a semi truck so max speed will be 15mph. How can I fix the cogging problem? Do I add the sensor wire, or can it be tuned out by messing with Vesc settings which there are an insane amount of

@revee1000

Жыл бұрын

Get the wire

@memememine1

Жыл бұрын

Def try to go sensored. It will be perfectly smooth from a stop with the sensored motor.

@MoMadNU

Жыл бұрын

@@memememine1 I just ordered the cable.

@RCexplained

Жыл бұрын

To immediately eliminate any start-up hesitation, use a sensored motor. Look at the difference in this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dm2nprSMpLOXqNo.html

A hammer is much more reliable device than an iPhone, simply because there is a much lesser chance the hammer will malfunction during its usage. I guess, you see how your logic that senseless is less complicated does not hold water. Yes, maybe you do not need to know the position or the number of turns your motor makes. However, if you do, there is no other way you can detect the position or/and number of rotations of non/stepper motors (especially for brushed DC motors) but to use a qualified sensor coupled to the motor's shaft.