Hi. I love these videos! I've discovered them only recently. It's always important to actually do stuff in the right environment instead of "dry" demonstrations where you have to imagine things. At the same time, you keep the explanation clear but not too verbose. One thing about this video, I'd put the pulley always on the strand you pull. Since MA gets multiplied in stages, attrition reduction benefits from the same multiplication. In other words, making the MA close to you more efficient is better than making the MA close to the load more efficient. Another way to look at it: it's better to make the hands stronger than the weight lighter. Yet another way: you put the pulley where the rope travels the most, which is always the strand you pull (if not, you're really doing something wrong). Pick the one that's easier to remember. And BTW, it doesn't make that much of a difference, so in practice one pulley in the system is better than no pulleys, and sometimes better go for convenience rather than max efficiency.

@glacieradventure4144

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks bro for the nice feedback. And I totally agree with you, you should always keep the pulley as close to you as possible that´s how it´s going to make the most efficiency . Thanks for your comment and the improvement point.

Re 14:00 At this point, you have the client tied snugly into the upper anchor & ATCg, & into the local anchor/ice screw (assuming they put it in?) which they might (be told) want to remove, or else keep until they eventually feel the tension of your haul system, but while their anchor is still loose enough for them to remove. (Talk first, or yell later.)

At the time you are getting ready to rappel down into the crevasse, I think I count you are using 8 lockers and one plain carabiner. That’s a lot of gear! What’s your standard gear list for glacier travel?

@glacieradventure4144

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Tj. That's true - I would recommend to bring 8 carabiners for a standard Hard Ice glacier guiding, 6 locking and 2 non locking. In this video we use a 5 m corselet for edge protection that will eat up 2 carabiners, you could use one end of the rope for edge protection, this case you safe a carabiner there, and when going down you can take the edge carabiner with you down in case you need to use it by the victim. Otherwise I recommend bringing more gear as you are developing your guiding skills and as you progress you will learn more and be able to minimise the gear but be able to keep you and your travelling companions safe.

This really seems to be a very involved way to rescue someone. It seems like you are showing the rescue on a glacier without any snow cover (as your client seems to have fallen into the crevasse without being attached to a rope). Why are you using a static 5m cordelette as safety in that scenario? It should be safe to not use a rope at all. In addition to that, a fall on several meters of slack on a static line would certainly not do you any good at all. I assume that you’re rappelling down because your client is unconscious. With all the adrenaline rushing, it is easy to loose your rope down that crevasse as it is not attached to anything when you’re throwing both ends down. Thy do you rappel on a munter if you have an ATC available that is not needed until after you get backup? I do not understand why you don’t use a figure 8 knot to attach the rope to your client, especially as it is already present at the end of the strand? How do you plan on pulling your client up? Do you simply pull that lifeless body over the razor sharp surface of the ice? Wouldn‘t it be better to carry that person on your back in the scenario that you are showing? If your client is conscious, why not just drop the end of the rope with a figure 8, ask him to attach it to the belay loop, do a 5:1 and be done with it in no time? You carry a lot of gear: you seem to carry a pulley, an ATC, two ice screws and eight carabiners but no Micro Traxion and no Tibloc. That seems a lot of weight and some of that gear is unexpected to me.