Those 'quickdraws' were probably made after a conversation along the line of: "Dude, I can totally hang on this, why should we spend so much money on those things, just make some yourself", while being completely oblivious about a fall generating an order of magnitude higher forces than just hanging on something.

I have run into newbie climbers a couple times building bad anchors and what I do (and I think the responsible thing to do) is to teach them without being condescending. I usually initiate with something like "that's an interesting anchor setup, can you tell me about it?"

@CheapFlashyLoris

10 ай бұрын

It's been hard for me to stay completely patient with these people when they're "leading" groups of top rope climbers who placed their trust in someone who doesn't know how to place gear. It's one thing for a couple of partners to fumble their way through a climb together, but these "confident wrong" people just blow my mind. Know what you don't know, dammit!

@cornfed123567

4 ай бұрын

​@CheapFlashyLoris coming from a mechanics point of view, the only way to deal with those people is to ask if they want help or a different way to do it. Any other way usually gets anger or a flat refusal

@234i9

27 күн бұрын

I wouldnt recommend that oneliner as a start lol, just seems bitchy tbh

As a newb I came here to learn to trust the gear I was climbing with in my local gym, now I trust the gear I’m loving slowly learning how little I know

I want to thank you guys, 5 years ago I broke my back and stopped climbing. Since I've found your channel it has inspired me to get back into it, and with the help from your videos and website I have started to develop a crag close to my house. You guys rock keep up the good work.

Idk, that sounds way too perfect to not be a prank done by experienced climbers

In my experience with the similar but underground version of this, the easiest way to handle Dunning-Krueger people is kindness and referring them to good resources, including groups that they can join where they have a good likelihood of finding a mentor. 😬 Also some firm but calm "hey I'm being extremely serious right now: you are in a deadly situation and need to turn back..."

@davidwarren719

3 жыл бұрын

Love it. Seen/ been in similar circumstances but with scuba diving. Scary stuff.

@jbwalker841

3 жыл бұрын

It's not just themselves who they pose a risk to. Anyone who comes after them and clips their poorly placed bolts may suffer the consequences of their actions.

@frederikeustachi816

3 жыл бұрын

@@jbwalker841You dont even have to clip them to get hurt by them in case of a fall

Dude this is scary these guys could have really hurt themselves. Thank you for your channel Ryan. I've learned so much here.

@bloodink9508

3 жыл бұрын

Obviously the safety to themselves is terrible. On top of that however, what damage might they have done to the route or perhaps any newer climbers who maybe would not have realized those bolts were unsafe themselves. It takes a lot less green to fail to recognize a bolt as safe or unsafe than it does to start slapping nonsense into the rock.

@thebearded4427

2 жыл бұрын

@@bloodink9508 This is exactly what i was thinking. Clipping into a line of bolts and then getting a whipper and having multiple bolts detach could lead to a very real fatal situation. The people setting might not get injured due to luck but those after might. Its pretty damn irresponsible, no matter how new you are.

Success story from a kinda noob. I have only been climbing since December and a few weeks ago was at a local outdoor crag. I saw someone rappelling of a 35ish foot wall with their cord looped with a double fisherman not then just wrapped around a tree. They were already over the edge so when I got down I asked who had done their anchor. I showed them how to set up a wrap 3 pull 2 anchor and explained how their setup was not redundant at all and that there was load being placed on the knot. From watching your channel I was able to tell them how much the knot reduces the load capability of the cord. It was a pleasant experience and they were open to the advice.

Everyone has that one friend who “knows” everything and is always overconfident in their abilities. I wouldn’t be surprised if one those two guys is like that... lol the one thing I will say, is that they at least wore helmets, which does indicate that they were thinking about safety...

@brianschmidt5645

3 жыл бұрын

I also did the bike helmet thing decades ago, and it's not so bad. But it probably is an indication you shouldn't be out bolting.

@austin8349

3 жыл бұрын

@@brianschmidt5645 snowboarding helmet here. Just didn’t have the money for a climbing helmet after all the other expenses. Was a real sweaty day.

@lobtyu

3 жыл бұрын

@@austin8349 My first skiing helmet was my climbing helmet and I got a bunch of snow under it lmao

Tbh I respect the spirit of getting out there, I remember when the local guys found my rigs and brought me in to the shop to give me lessons 😭😭 my rigs were all rope saws

That is just... Impressive. The daring of bolting around like they own the rock without even considering what other climbers have to say about it, and at the same time getting so wrong the safety. Also, it wouldn't have been so much more expensive for them to get 7 mm cordelette and link with a double fisherman's (about 13 kN?), and it would at least had matched the strength of the quickdraws, right?

A helmet test would be interesting. By visual comparison, some bike helmets appear more robust than most climbing helmets. I have opted for a bike helmet on many occasions. I have looked at a number of climbing helmet styles and some do appear very skimpy on padding or impact absorbing material. Again without data to compare the two, it's hard to argue one or the other.

@matthiasoberleitner2116

3 жыл бұрын

There is a difference in the type of impact expected. With climbing the helmets are designed so that falling rocks get diverted, that's why they have that hard shell. Since the rocks have a crazy amount of energy you want your head or the rock pushed out of the way instead of the impact being absorbed

@climbing200

3 жыл бұрын

@@matthiasoberleitner2116 this is true. Also, bike helmets are more designed for impact to the front or back rather then the top of the head. Built for their specific sports.

@michaelgb206

3 жыл бұрын

Numbers would be more convincing... sounds like a future episode????

@climbing200

3 жыл бұрын

@@michaelgb206 sounds like something for a drop tower...

@matthiasoberleitner2116

3 жыл бұрын

I mean if your goal is to lessen the impact when you fall in a bad way so that you turn upside down and smack against the wall then a bicycle helmet would do the job better. Against diverting projectiles from above the climbing helmet wins. A test would be interesting but objectively measuring the impact on the head will be hard

Bolting trad routes with the wrong bolts? Sounds like a bunch of trolls not gumbys.

"idk where the disconnect was between the stoke and the knowledge" been there lmaoooo

When you mentioned why you like doing to channel I want you to know you've succeeded - while I've never climbed outdoors or even done a lead climb indoors. You've manage to teach me so much about forces what gear is acceptable etc. Honestly thank you :)

This is local to me, fancy seeing you here! It’s pronounced yam-nuh-skah, you’re not too far off.

@marcushiebert7126

3 жыл бұрын

Just yam for short most of the time anyways

Slowly working up the confidence to get out there but I love your attitude man. Really your energy is the reason I started watching, and you have helped me build confidence in my own fields of work. As a bonus I have learned so much about proper anchors and rope access that I never would have in the industrial routes. It probably is down to exposure but I am so much more confident tied off to buildings then rocks. I'm a heavier guy not really a climber but I can haul weight up and down fixed routes all day.

This read out of something like the onion was kinda hard to believe there was so much disconnect.

Y’know…our climbing forfathers (Robbins, Pratt, Chouinard, Weissner etc etc etc) used sketchier gear than those quick draws to put up some outstanding routes….just a little food for thought.

@DJ-kg6zq

3 жыл бұрын

The people who are afraid of this gear, would not be climbing back then!

Bicycle helmets are fine. They pass a test simulating side-impact on a curb, where as mountaineering helmets don't need to pass any impact tests at all before going to market. Most "climbing" helmets are a flimsy joke with a tiny amount of crown anti-penetration protection and nothing else (it's a watered down version of the test used on construction helments and no one in industry seems to want to pass any more independent tests than that). I think most skateboard helments are better for climbing than most climbing helmets. Prove me wrong. Smash some helmets!

@theenglandguy

3 жыл бұрын

I'd love for THAT to be tested

@jessieplaysmusic8530

3 жыл бұрын

As Somone who has worn both, I wouldn’t be surprised at all if you’re proven right. My old skateboard helmet looks and feels way safer

@jarnea.7988

3 жыл бұрын

The problem with bicycle helmets it that the 'air holes' are rather large and on top of the helmet. This could cause a smaller but sharper rock to still do some heavy damage. That's at least one of the reason's someone once told me about this issue.

@flasher702

3 жыл бұрын

@@jarnea.7988 Racing bicycle helmets are more holes than shell and the shell is basically cosmetic. skateboard helmets typically have small holes and a thick shell designed to survive multiple minor crashes. Typically, the holes in a skateboard helmet are somewhat near the top. Where the rock lands is such a lottery anyway, and while I am climbing I am constantly tilting my head, so I don't worry too much about that. I think most skateboard helmets would still pass the mountaineering helmet anti penetration test (i think! I want to see someone test it!), but that is because the test is crap and we should stop putting so much faith in it.

@Candesce

3 жыл бұрын

@@jarnea.7988 That doesn't seem like a very good reason. I've been mountain biking for 4 years and have gone through a lot of helmets and have never had anything come through the vents. You'd think crashing on a mountain bike would be more extreme than any climbing fall.

I'd try to help them out as long as it didn't compromise my safety (including getting in their fall line). Some people really think they know what they're doing and you can't tell them anything, so I'd keep my expectations low, but then again I feel obligated to save someone's life if possible. One time I stopped a guy from rappelling with a grigri on a hardware store rope and it wasn't awkward or anything, he was very gracious. I set up his toprope for him and we climbed a bit.

Ok I don't climb but I love seeing the right way to do anything. Plus I love seeing all the knots and ropes to use for what type of stuff you do. Awesome channel 👍

Great video Ryan. Stoke was there but the basic knowledge wasn’t. Glad you didn’t miss the opportunity to educate from their mistakes.

Love your attitude man! Great content. Educational entertainment from a nice guy.

I’d like to see if there is a difference between hardware store type bail biners vs some climbing brand bail biners. Love the videos Ryan!

I’m a noob, but I took a Rescue Technician course. I look for the highest kn on products. I may not know much, but I know enough to but quick draws with dyneema of two lengths. I also know, taking advice from others, looking it up or asking questions is absolutely valuable. There is NO ROOM for the “I know” or the “I’m better than you” attitude. The minute you stop learning, you became a hazard!

Love waking up to a new video

Coming out the gate leading and bolting those guys are gonna be amazing real soon

That is why you need a set of rules about bolting and who can place bolts on the rocks! Not only it's dangerous for them themself, but also for anybody who may trust their bolts later. Also to protect the rocks.

03:11 It's been truly Great... 👍 If they gave out Nobel's for Bolting you definitely deserve one...for all the pain and efforts you put in.. Loving "Pushing the line." ..having set up a few lines here in India... , I can understand how difficult the process must be at those huge distances...love it.

Found it, learning things... so mission accomplished :-) Thanks.

Reminds me of the time I encountered a couple of young men toproping with a textbook well equalized anchor - with slings girth hitched at either end of the same old half rotten wooden fence rail. Yikes. I gave them a few kind pointers about what "solid" and "redundant" mean. I think - and hope - they took it with the kindness I tried to convey, but they scared the crud out of me.

You saying they were using 5mm cord was generous, looks like 4mm paracord to me, glad they’re still alive to think about their choices

Subcribed for grigri breaking test!

I would assume new people would do the opposite and go way overboard and overdo everything. Use "bomber" everything. Thats at least what I would do coming from someone who would never rock climb or highline but loves watching your videos

@petermichaelgreen

2 жыл бұрын

I don't know what they were thinking in this particular case, but often unknown unknowns are what get people. * The quoted breaking strength of ropes are under ideal conditions. As soon as you put knots in a rope you substantially reduce it's breaking strength. * The forces at the end of a fall can easilly be much higher than the weight of the faller. * The force on the quickdraw and anchor is higher than the force on the climber. Most people weigh less than 1kN. 5mm cordellete seems to have an advertised breaking strength of 6kN. I could easilly see someone who is ignorant of the factors mentioned above thinking it was bomber when it's far from it..

I have no doubt these overconfident gentlemen learned everything from 15-20 minutes of some climbing event that included a brief minute on the setup of the facility/climbing route. For one roto hammers are commonly used in many trades - even if yes procedures and gear that your life depends maybe a far cry from habit. The issue I have is that most work environments are by design to have all danger removed and the people in question have only played videogames. In my youth big machines had big clanking pieces of metal with contacts that went *boom* and few buttons and tools that took muscle to even use.

So much sketchy stuff since dawn wall and freesolo......and now covid. As a bow valley climber, this was a super hot topic

@icydeath4649

3 жыл бұрын

Since the movies...and you know...the entire history of thousands of years of climbing before this gear existed....right? I mean yea there is nice safe stuff now.....but....

I’ve never happened upon anything that disastrous in climbing but knew a guy when I used to hang glide, who adapted a harness he used for his tree surgery and wore it back to front, it seemed to work fine but looked very uncomfortable

There is a lot of difference between reading or watching videos and learning from those with experance. I have seen so many gym climbers or sports cli.ber that have no idea of why or how to set up an anchor.

Fun Story: #2 I went to may favorite home crag, and a couple was about to practice rapell incl. Stepping over the edge (as you come down from building a top-rope ;) i just arrived and saw she was about to step over *no helmed*no 3rd hand*no fire fighter belay*no theader* and i said, hey what's up? You guys are practicing? Cool, cool.. "That way they don't feel scared by doing something wrong" May I give you some suggestions before you guys have fun....? This time I have time and I love to teach and i don't want a mess on my home crag 🤠 Thanks for all your Content ☺️

This reminds me of one time at a popular climbing gym in Switzerland where I saw a couple climbing without an end knot on their rope. When I noticed that, the climber was being lowered and the end of the rope was getting dangerously close to the belayer. They touched the ground with about 2-3 meters of rope left. I quickly told them about the missing knot, and the guy belaying literally looked down at me, laughed, and said to me with a smile « don’t worry, we have the right length » I tried telling them that wall was vertical and it was probably fine, but they maybe shouldn’t go on the big overhang across the room. Again, he laughed and said it was fine. I gave up and left, I hope they never hurt themselves, but frankly, it’s on them if they ever do.

@davinderc

Жыл бұрын

To be quite fair, if you have long enough rope, a knot on the end won't make a difference, you're never going to reach the end of the rope. Aside from that, as long as the belayer is paying attention for the midpoint of the rope and watching when they lower the other person, there's very little that can go wrong...

@EmmysVerySeriousVideos

Жыл бұрын

@@davinderc Absolutely agree that you probably won’t ever reach the end of the rope, it’s never happened to me so far, but if it does happen, no one will get hurt because the knot will be there. My point is not doing it when you know your rope is long enough is probably fine in itself, but making the knot a habit is a lot safer. The odds of misjudging the length of a route and reaching the end are small, but never 0. Maybe I’m too cautious but I’ll always feel a lot safer with a knot at the end of my rope

Amusing that you assume they used rated accessory cord instead of the black 1100 cord from WalMart. I mean, sure, I've used the stuff for a spare prusik, but then, I was never depending on a single prusik to prevent a splat.

I have only hiked Yamnuska, never climbed or even scrambled it. Pretty scary the risks people take not knowing static vs dynamic loading and the actual loads on gear notwithstanding safety factor.

Those draws are *terrifying* 😳

I did the bike helmet thing, especially bouldering. However, I was a mountain biker just stopping along the way to play around. Honestly, I love my climbing helmet for Alpine, but I'd prefer a beefy bike helmet for techy sport/trad or bouldering.

We had situations with really sketchy people doing really sketchy things, politely offered our help and guidance, were rudely dismissed and chose to leave the crag instead of staying and having our day ruined by watching a terrible accident happen and having to clean up the mess. Some people just won't listen.

I am not climber but both sounds good, newbies should understand how much they know and hiding what you think will just make them distrust you. "Just" be nice.

This sounds like a prank. I find it hard to believe that someone would know about bolts and bolting, but not know about quickdraws. Certainly ambitious if it is true.

@christopherdunlap88

3 жыл бұрын

did you see the bolts?? they don't know about bolting at all...

@justindunlap1235

3 жыл бұрын

@@christopherdunlap88hello fellow dunlap. Yeah it looked like you could pull that bolt out with your toes.

@justinepope5781

3 жыл бұрын

Potentially but a bad joke as yam is notoriously known in the bow valley for its classic trad routes so it goes beyond knowledge and into ethics.

@nolanforrester6963

3 жыл бұрын

I was with Merrick that day, these guys had NO idea what they were doing...

@chang.stanley

3 жыл бұрын

I know about bolts and bolting. In fact, I think most construction people know how to securely bolt into rock or concrete, and know little about rock climbing. What's a Quickdraw? How can you tell that's a bad bolt from the picture?

I've always heard it as "yam - nuhs - kah" or just "yam"

2:43 "and of course test the limits of things because ... uhmm ... i like to do that" I'm not alone !

I saw this reported. What I'd like to know is did they take up the offer of a free day's lesson? I really hope that they took the lesson and one day end up becoming great climbers, all that enthusiasm!

@Jackofafewtrades

2 жыл бұрын

They did end up taking the lessons. They're also very apologetic and open to learning, which is cool.

Great videos, more climbers need to subscribe to this channel! Thank you for everything you do

Any chance of reviewing/breaking the Trango Big Bro? Just saw it for the first time and all I could think of is you guys trying to break it! **edit - Love your content, only climbed a few times but your channel has me looking into a trad rack of my own as well as a slackline! Keep up the awesome work!

@HowNOT2

3 жыл бұрын

A big bro would be cool to break.

the word we use in the UK is 'punter'

Definitely both. I wouldn’t let them continue to ruin the rock, that’s for sure. If they don’t want to listen and continue to destroy shit with their tactics I would stick around to clean up their mess, be sure to note their license plate as they leave the area, and send it along to the rangers. It’s not our job to police the wilderness. If they don’t want to learn then we can’t really help them. I REALLY hope they do get some lessons and keep themselves safe because someone with the amount of stoke it takes to start just climbing shit with that gear means they’ll be pushing limits if they stick to it. Stoke level Mach 10.

I don’t think I was ever this new…😂

Can we get a test on poorly installed bolts ?

“Yam” is a popular trad area in the Canadian Rockies. Home of loose rock and way too much scree, it is the considered a quintessential testing ground. I like your approach, and consider Will Gadd’s offer to be a Canadian approach to the issue. Nobody wants to see someone die. However, I still want to believe it’s rare to see this combination of self confidence and lack of knowledge. especially at Yam, where your skills need to be solid to navigate the inherent risks of the loose rock and general route finding.

You should test and compare helmets. Specifically skateboard, pedal bike, and climbing helmets. Are they all super good enough?

Will Gadd proving once again that he's an absolute legend.

I would do both! ^^ Nice trickshot at the end with the birdie and the grigri... first shot? Or how many tries did it take?

@HowNOT2

3 жыл бұрын

3 tries ;)

Have you ever tested a Notch V3 Quickie?

Thanks "Free Solo"

@rockclimbinghacks9222

3 жыл бұрын

I always explain to people that free soloing is like one of those death-defying circus tricks, it's been rehearsed many many times it's just executing a sequence. But I gave up trying to explain the difference between free climbing and free solo.

Dawg Bless Will Gadd. 🙏

Uggg why would they even place bolts right before the trail closure? I live in Calgary, and this horrifies me. As much as I love introducing new people to our sport and have helped facilitate the transition from indoor lead to outdoor climbing. As we get more and more people involved there are more and more cases like this one.

Fun Stories: #1 My wife told me to look at ones belay technic. I said I don't want to see it, first I am going to do this lead. I came down and saw him, introduced my self, and asked for giving advice. I learned, first day Lead belay (outdoor!), First day outdoor climbing, first day rock climb (indoor boulderer), and top-roped a few times. This time I was on vacation Al climbing trip and didn't want to spend much time with kamikazes ;) I said, as an indoor instructor I would not allow you to lead belay. And it would be smart to consider to go bouldering. Looking forward what you guys think 🤔 😉

Matthew, with no knowledge, other than watching a James Bond film and immediate stoke, grabbed his dad's hammer and his family's tent stakes with a rope and some quick links from the hardware store, set out to climb the chossiest up cropping mound of Earth he could find within walking distance from home. New or not, EXPERIENCE and MENTORSHIP led up to the fascinating experience of climbing in Yosemite!!! Point being, He says, " Stoke these Blokes, lessons, mentorship and comradery is what it is all about. I wishfully hope they meet up with people like I met who saw my STOKE!!! CLIMB ON!"

@rebeccadee4107

3 жыл бұрын

By the way don't make a rivit ladder up every tree in your parents back yard with your dad's nails, both your parents might get pissed off. If you do so, It's Space Net Time!!!

I was in the Red and let the guy on the route next to us know he was back clipped and he yelled at me that I didn't know what I was talking about. It's like dude, i'm trying to let you know you're in a potentially dangerous position. while it's annoying to get yelled at when you're trying to keep those around you safe, i still call it out if I see it anyways.

You should see all the memes. 😂 Really goes beyond knowledge, I feel you should have touched on the ethics aspect as they bolting were bolting a trad line but non the less still a great piece. Thanks for spreading awareness, knowledge and stoke!

Also lol “Yam-nusk-aa”

i think these are the guys who put up Wings Of Steel.

im was also guilty of a bike helmet thing 10 years ago

I would happily do both, but them placing bolts would have me in a rage, its all good risking yourself but risking other people because you think you can do what you want. should genuinly need to start having courses and qualifications, with certification before drilling a hole on a climb, because to many people getting into the Sport see Videos on KZread of how too, and all of a sudden have the urge to bolt routes, especially routes that have been left for trad and are even listed in the guide books as a trad route, where there are tons of bolted routes right there.

@DJ-kg6zq

3 жыл бұрын

I want bolts everywhere! Hahaha shouldn’t we be more concerned about safety than some rock? I’m on “team people”… no one‘s gonna like this comment😝

LOL of all the people they bumped into it was the ruthless satirist Will Gadd.

He does respond to all of his emails! Ryan is such a bro. ;) Please don't email him though unless you have some generally good questions (I think I did, not sure lol - sorry Ryan if I didn't) or ideas of things to test etc. RE: nubs and Will Gadd's response... Will is a top class guy. I met him, I think, back at the Tetons climbers ranch in 93' or 94' and I had been guiding. He offered to be my sponsor while I worked on my AMGA cert... (Didn't happen for strange reasons but anyway). Great guy. Some folks may simply not know WHAT to research when it comes to climbing. Also, google might suggest some things based on your history. So let's say they are big hunters or outdoorsmen / fishermen etc... google might suggest tree climbing or, heck I don't know. Trying to give these guys benefit of the doubt. I remember learning lead climbing from K2 movie scene where they are trad climbing. LMAO. I hope these guys get schooled, but in a good way and I hope they stay safe. Enough rambling, wanted to get my comment in to help Ryan's YT stuff... (We're always being told to like, sub and comment, so here it is)

@two_tone_xlophone2630

3 жыл бұрын

man, it was a lot different for us back then though, we had no resources to learn how to climb for the most part, it was usually usually a buddy or if you were lucky you had access to some group, i was introduced to it by the boy scouts in '86 but most of my education came from trial and error or just pouring over freedom of the hills while on the toilet or on the school bus. lol it's much different now with the internet, between youtube, forums or any of the other places people talk about climbing it really shouldn't be hard to sort out what's right and what's wrong and have a pretty good idea of what's going on.....i say this as someone who thinks people have generally become safety freaks when it comes to climbing, to me the whole thing has always been about calculated risks.....i say that as even with the stupid shit i've done, there's really not much excuse for what is described in this video, benefit of the doubt or not, this is really nothing more than the people of walmart ending up at some local crag and is just a product of the the sport becoming mainstream....as with anything the bigger it becomes and the larger the circle of people joining in grows the more and more stuff like this starts to happen....i don't really know what it is about large groups of people where you almost always end up with things ruined because a number of people can't handle things....it happens in almost all walks of life....not saying this as a cynic either, i don't want this to be true but it's hard to ignore the observations i've made over my life.

210 + / 0 - Good Job ! greets from Germany !

They're just being more hardcore than you thought you posed to be dangerous hanging off cliffs

I wear a bike helmet sometimes :/

Question. Why a good bike helmet is worst than a mediocre climbing helmet for climbing? Do they have something special? I have a good bike helmet and a cheap climbing one and personally feel more secure with the bike one

U are so cool at the end with the grigri #forthealmighty

I chose Bobby as a mentor for these reasons : )

A slap on the back of the head then a lesson!

I'm pretty sure bike helmets offer very similar level of protection

Circa 1968 I "self taught" via the sparse library books, classics like Rebuffat's On Snow and Rock," surviving the summer before I fell in with actual seasoned members of the school climbing club. Nowadays, there is no excuse for being so oblivious and ignorant - except there is no UIAA certification attached to crazy KZread videos created with really bad advice, indistinguishable from very well established posters. Suck up your newbie pride, and seek advise from more seasoned vets who look as if they "know the ropes," and not just proselytize. Some day these dudes will realize how fortunate they were to have Will come into the conversation.

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Wow, this is a great example of "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing." They probably read of few things, though, "yeah, I can do that." and didn't bothering reading past the first paragraph. To do things right requires a lot of research, reading different resources and talking with experts.

Did they do damage to the route itself? Seems to be such inexperienced bolting would be dangerous to more than just those two.

I am not a climber but I have to rappel from time to time and I often have to secure myself when working in higher places. And even to me this looks extremely dangerous and very very stupid.

I think it is 550 paracord

My opinion based on experience: be nice and serious. And if your help is not welcome, get out of there, to avoid putting yourself at risk of having to rescue the idiots.

Offering to help instead of just blowing these guys up online is the best way to actually help... I think. If a top climber is offering to help you straighten out, you'd have to be nuts to pass on it.

You're a bike helmet wearer. Sounds like one of those fantastic British insults.

I would like to see bowline vs bowline on a bight vs figure eight.

@delphic464

3 жыл бұрын

Add to this test: Bowline tied correctly (tail inside) vs. incorrectly (tail outside). Does the shear angle really make a significant difference? and...once you get the drop tower finished: will dynamic loading really make an unset bowline fail if it is not finished with a knot?

I think the best way would be to explain to them exactly why what they're doing is completely unsafe. I think if you can get across to them how much danger they're putting themselves in, while staying calm and cordial, they might at least think twice.

Have you already broke 6mm cordalette?

I definitely never rappelled with non listed rope, with a single tree rope to locker, with no abrasion protection, no helmet, the cheapest harness and figure 8 I could find locally, then used prusik ascenders made from 550 cord and also too large of non rated accessory cord on single non locking carabiners 😄 But atleast it was sterling brand rope, at the time their "utility use only line" was pretty awesome and looked similar inside and out for 1/4 of the price 🤦‍♂️ I did use the cheapest lockers I could find for the "anchor lol" and my earless figure 8, I had read just enough not to die I guess... allegedly. Honestly if I had our current internet I would've probably attempted wayyy dumber stuff without any proper instruction 🤣

There is a lot of bad info out there, so I'm not too surprised by this story

I climb in the Calgary area and I am very new myself so I have been following the shit show that is yes drama from approximately the start. Kind of cool to see the area become famous for all the wrong reasons. I really wonder if the people who put those in know about the issues they’ve caused at this point

@Millsy.g

3 жыл бұрын

@@jasonelford4474 It's not fine, that was not a sport climb route. It was a trad route.

Atleast they had helmets lol. Sometimes even if people know the right ways to do something they still think they can do it cheaper or better (lol) themselves anyways.

5mm or 550 cord,. Looked like the later to me