6061, 6063, 7071, and 7075 are describing what the alloy of the aluminum is. For example, by weight %: 7075 - 5.6-6.1% zinc, 2.1-2.5% magnesium, 1.2-1.6% copper, balance aluminum 6063 - Silicon minimum 0.2%, max 0.6%, Iron no min, max 0.35%, Copper no min, max 0.10%, Manganese no min, max 0.10%, Magnesium min 0.45%, max 0.9%, Chromium no min, max 0.10%, Zinc no min, max 0.10%, Titanium no min, max 0.10%, Other elements no more than 0.05% each, 0.15% total, balance aluminum -O, -T4, -T6 are describing the temper of the aluminum. All of the alloys mentioned above have heat treat processes that can increase both the Young's Modulus and Ultimate Strength of the material dramatically. -O is the annealed state. -T6 is a tempering and artificial aging process. To take an educated guess at the alloy and temper of the material you could take a look at the percent elongation of the section that broke. For further analysis figure out the stress that the carabiner broke at (stress = load/ c.s. area) and compare it to the ultimate strength of the alloy and temper you suspect. For CYA purposes, this would all still be educated guessing, but might be interesting to look into. Time allowing of course.

@HowNOT2

3 жыл бұрын

That's super helpful

@MKaden-cv3ts

3 жыл бұрын

@@HowNOT2 At first-thank you for your testing, its makes me more confindet whe im climbing. I have to say one thing, which drives the little sheldon in me crazy- molecule are gases or liquids like O2 oder H2O, this means that 2 or more atomes are connected and thats the only way they exits in nature( except form tec.-application) metals on the other side are only made out of atoms! A test idea which im realy interested in is: How strong are knots in a passive safety application. Im from germany and i climb in the so called "sachsische schweiz" . Instead of classic nuts or cams, we only use doubled overhand, figure eight or other knots as "safty devices" (in case of cracks at least). Because of the super soft sandstone thats the only way allowed, besides UFOs and slings/webing. Could you test this this out for us?😁

@matijaderetic3565

3 жыл бұрын

@@MKaden-cv3ts I don't really understand your point with molecules, but you could refresh your knowledge on types of intramolecular forces (those that hold atoms together in a molecule, as opposed to intermolecular, which act between those molecules) . Intramolec. Forces are Ionic, covalent and metallic bonds. And then see if studying metallic bonds satysfies your curiosity.

@roman15598

3 жыл бұрын

Young's modulus does not increase during any heat treatment process. If a change is measured, the quantity is negligible. Other than that, the info in this comment seems fine.

@MKaden-cv3ts

3 жыл бұрын

@@matijaderetic3565 My Point is covalent bonds dont exisit in metals, therefore there are no moleculs in the metal matrix, as he said in 2:05. (besides the case of corrosion-reaction, in wich it is actually possible that single moleculs can exit in cracks at the surface of materials such as metals or plastics. This is by the way the reason for the "delamination-like" corrosion of steel. and yes i know metals cant delaminate) If you want to know more about just hock me up, i can recommend you some titles, mostly in german but i can research for english articels for you. :)

“Looks like they pulled one of the children off the assembly line to make it look bigger than it actually is” 😂😂😂 I’m dead, you made me cough up my bagel 😂

The fact that it doesn't show the rating for loading with the gate open and crossloading tells me enough

I would totally love to see a bunch of Amazon climbing ropes tested.

@cavezip

2 ай бұрын

I’ve been testing some of the cheap static lines for years. The issues I’m seeing is that the sheaths tend to bunch up some and the ropes don’t hold their shape. I’ve still got a 7mm set up I have been rappelling down an 80 foot cliff for several years now.

"Looks like they pulled one of the children off the assembly line to take the photo" LOL savage

@andyrandy0815

2 жыл бұрын

😂😂😂

@nerdjournal

2 ай бұрын

makes me sad... I have small hand, and small.. Ego?

I will say, these are great for hammock use. Light weight, and cheap enough that I don't get upset if I lose one.

@btrswt35

3 жыл бұрын

@Foxtrot Oscar 17kn of shit is a ton!

@lhmmhl1

3 жыл бұрын

Just dont get confused and take one climbing!

@jarodlojeck5150

3 жыл бұрын

@@lhmmhl1 bit they're "Great!"

@MadGunny

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah these carabiners are just fine for their intended use. Anyone with a brain will know not to use them for climbing.

@Hey_Its_Yosh

2 жыл бұрын

@@Rokmononov how is that a risk? People get so caught up with “everything needs to be 21kn or it’s going to break blah blah blah” I’m from the Fire Dept world where everything is rated to 40kn and we say the same thing about THAT. “If it’s not rated to 40…”, meanwhile that’s 3x the forces you could ever see on a system shock loaded with a 600lb load, even accounting for rope strength loss with knots. All that to say, use what’s rated highly enough. 2500lbs is 5x higher than any max force your hammock is going to see, and if you think you’d break a carabiner using your hammock you should probably get on a major diet ASAP.

They rate them at 12kN because they can't keep a consistent "quality", 12 is probably the minimum tested by them.

@arcanealchemist3190

3 жыл бұрын

or they did some quick math and never even tested the carabiners. math said around 16 so they felt safe claiming 12 without any testing. sketchy no matter how they chose the number

@ssu7653

2 жыл бұрын

It is not uncommon to just rate stuff at some "normal" rating. If you find find to manufacturers with the exact same rating this is what happened 99% of the time

@Nbomber

2 жыл бұрын

@@ssu7653 this is the most likely explanation tbh.

@sarowie

2 жыл бұрын

by going for 12kN they are not for climbing, making it easier for the manufacturer to blame misuse for any injury.

@philiqp3

2 жыл бұрын

Theo one I bought says they've rated them around 15 to 19kn. So to be safe they rate it under. For sure they say it's not meant for climbing but it should be unmissable in the title or 1st image. I bought it for camping, as I I'm professionally trained for work at height.

I don't know what brand, but I've bought a variety of similar carabiners from Amazon and I've never done any climbing or had any desire whatsoever to do any climbing. I've been quite pleased with them. You're definitely right about anyone misrepresenting them for being for climbing, but there is definitely a market for non-climbing carabiners.

@AnonyMous-pi9zm

2 жыл бұрын

I like the Metolius Nano for non-climbing carabiners. I know that no matter what I am using it for, keychain, hammock, etc, it will be plenty strong enough, and it is built to the standard of safety and reliability it claims to be given the reputable manufacturer, rating, and seller. Once you include amazon's fulfillment and shipping costs, it isn't all that different from buying real ones from REI, and the peace of mind is worth the 2 dollars.

@MybeautifulandamazingPrincess

2 жыл бұрын

The problem is if you a climbing carabiner made in China. I don't want a made in China guarantee for my safety

@Tralin

Жыл бұрын

I think something that's worth considering is: These devices are great for non-climbers, non-critical safety situations. Hanging a hammock? Go for it. Suspending your food bag up in a tree? Definitely. Even using it as an assisted lower for something like a canoe down a steep slope. However, as a climber, I would never get these devices for fear they might mix into my main gear. Even though I'd (probably) spot the non-climbing ones and avoid their use, one of the people I bring out with me might grab one from my kit without realizing. Instead, for all of my camping stuff, I simply retire older carabiners for that (which comes with the added benefit that I can more likely use the gear I have on me during camping for more critical applications).

@AMC-eq3jr

Жыл бұрын

@@Tralin Would you trust it 50 ft off the ground in a hammock for an overnight.

@Tralin

Жыл бұрын

@@AMC-eq3jr It's like you missed the "great for ... non-critical safety situations." part of my message and jumped straight to trying to be clever.

Please do the cheapest Amazon rope lol

I often use climbing carabiners to secure water bottles and other gear. Makes a lot of sense to instead buy cheap ones at a third the price for these applications. I don’t fault them for selling these if they’re labeled as not for climbing; any experienced climber wouldn’t get them mixed up. If you aren’t experienced or trained you probably shouldn’t be rigging your own ropes.

@haydenedwards5061

2 жыл бұрын

You would be surprised how easy it can be to get them mixed up. I had some like this from a long time ago that we're not climbing rated, matte black, and they could get mixed up with the loads of climbing gear in my basement. If you accidentally grab the wrong one as you are packing for a trip, it could be deadly. I'm throwing away any that I find. Anything that needs a carabiner deserves full strength if you climb or rig anything

@ISOSAILING

2 жыл бұрын

The way I see it I would just use proper climbing ones to carry your bottles or what ever as you can use it for climbing if you need it or a back up. Just my thought anyway.

@I..cast..fireball

Жыл бұрын

Until someone buys their first harness, biner and atc and heads to their gym. Not everyone who climbs is experienced, and not everyone who is inexperienced find the right information sources. Its fine if they are 17kn, but they should still be embossed with not for climbing, and have absolutely no hint in their advertising that they can be used that way.

@stephenchurch1784

Жыл бұрын

$12 to ensure that your chances of making a life threatening mistake are zero instead of close to zero seems like a fair trade to me

@Przemo-c

3 ай бұрын

@@stephenchurch1784 It's never just one carabiner. Especially when you can use more of them in more places that are not safety critical you're more likely to get more increasing overal cost. And it's even cheaper not to climb. But to each their own.

Yes please test the Amazon rope that they keep sending me emails to buy lol...I did end up buying a 10.5mm static from Amazon for 15$...The price was just too good to at least buy and use for yard work if I needed it...I found out why it was 15$...The rope length was 35 feet, not 35 meters. It smelled like cancer. And they sheath is going to pull off of it the second you would try to use something like an ascender on it lol...A PSA style video on this junk would be great

@AstronomyWales

3 жыл бұрын

BetaClimbers has just done this. Not the break testing but he "reviews" it and breaks down the difference.

@50StichesSteel

3 жыл бұрын

@@AstronomyWales Yeah I watched the one where he did the ones that come with the cheap carabiners on the end of the rope..This one I'm talking looks just like a climbing rope, says it's CHNA certified (not even sure if that's a real thing) and is wrapped with a nice velcro enclosure with the rope diameter and a person climbing painted on it..So it would be shitty if it didn't hold up trying to be a climbing rope...never-ending it being static to begin with...I'm sure it's fine to have and only use to rappel out of a window in a fire emergency, but that's about all the higher I would trust it

Great video, I actually use these generic 12kN carabiners on my 3 hammocks and I really like them in that role. Not a climbing gear by any means, but if you get them at a correspondingly low price, they can be really useful in some applications.

@kd5nrh

11 ай бұрын

IMO, looking real and costing pretty much the same as the Favofit or Xinda UIAA rated 22kN biners is where they fail the hardest. If they were half the price and visibly different enough that they'd never accidentally end up on my gear loops, I'd actually want a dozen or so for non-life-supporting (or at least never-shock-loaded, like the hammock) applications. At the usual prices, though, there's no reason not to go with an off-brand-but-rated biner twice as strong, so at least I don't have to worry that I'll suddenly notice "12kN" attached to a prusik I'm using to back up a sketchy rappel.

@thenayancat8802

7 ай бұрын

Appreciate the one sentence horror story you threw in at the end there @@kd5nrh

The one point that was kind of glossed over is the importance of good quality control. Everything from tracking manufacturing defects, to sampling plans, to tracking reports of defects, to issuing recalls are critical to ensure a product is safe and effective. Yes, these specific crabs performed above their rating, but how likely would they spot a defective product during production? What is the probability of one of these carabiners having a critical defect? Is there a rate of unacceptable product leaving the facility before they stop production or issue a recall? Or would they just change the branding and keep pushing out product? For example, the one crab pulled it's wire gate straight. This indicated the failure is due to the crack propagating from the wire attachment hole and not where we typically see it, an indication of localized stress concentration in an unusual spot. This shows there's likely insufficient manufacturing controls. The other thing that affects price is design engineering time. Buying these essentially rewards the copycats, and punishes the inventors stifling innovation.

@btudrus

8 ай бұрын

exactly...

If it comes from Amazon I aint trusting my life to it. Even as a cheap university student deep in debt I'd prefer to keep my limbs and spine intact for a couple dollars more.

I discovered your channel off the pooping video and I'm hooked haha. This is amazing.

Thanks a lot for this vid and all your orhers. I don't climb but I bought a load of these to help strap things down on our car roof, and deemed 12kn more than enough, so it's great to see them perform better.

Second time watching this on different dates, and enjoyed it again. Probably my favorite one of your videos.

Thanks for this.. This channel is the best! Keep up the good work.

I would definitly watch an hour long episode about rope tests... or several episodes... gotta keep that algorythm happy!!

@pentachronic

3 жыл бұрын

Same. Would like to see static and dynamic rope tests along with different sling materials and widths. Also knots, no knots, hitches etc.

This was very entertaining Ryan. Never would I ever use an amazon product for life safety, but I appreciate this video. There are so many new climbers/slackers who may not know that these are not actually safe to use! ps: I really hope you send those back and get your money back.

thanks for testing these. I have a few of these - i don't climb and would not use them for anything safety critical. I use them for hanging weights from a weight belt for exercising. Good to know their plenty strong for the applications i use them for. They appear good quality and strong for non ciritical applications

Could be a few reasons why...1) The quality of the aluminum they get (there are companies claiming certain metal grades but are not). 2) skipping the heat treatment process and just using the base material. 3) What type of process used to make them. I guessing they are not hot forged, or stamped or milled out of one block of aluminum (which each process can give a metal certain characteristics)...My guess is they either use cast aluminum to make them (one of the cheapest, quickest and potentially weakest processes to use because it's easy to get air pockets in the metal and make it brittle. Companies use this process because you don't need metal bending equipment or metal milling equipment. You just make one mold of the shape you want and pour liquid metal into it. So you might get a few that hold 15kN and one that holds 9 kN) Or the wire gate is made from a cheaper metal.

@court2379

3 жыл бұрын

Lack of forging was my thought as well. These are probably machined or cast. I have a bit of trouble believing they would have been as strong as they are if cast, but with die casting and post heat treatment perhaps.

Man this video was pure gold from comedy to educational. You got my support bro!👍👍👍🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Cool idea. I've wondered about that. When climbing, most of the time I worry a lot more about human error than equipment failure.

This video was super interesting. I am not in favor of purchasing less than reputable gear that you're putting your life on the line for, but I think I'd anything, this shines some light on companies that charge up the wazoo for gear. Also, I would LOVE to see a rope test video, showing the Amazon ropes.

@Xtreme_Airgun_Slugs

3 жыл бұрын

The Amazon ropes are good for hauling. I bought one just for the hell of it and did a handful of short rappels, it did the job but I wouldn't use them as a lifeline at height. Oh! I also bought an Edelweiss Canyon Prime rope from Amazon that is actually legit.

Thanks a lot for the video! I bought these carabiners for hanging tools on a rope access work and wanted to know their real strength.

My favorite part of videos about sketchy Amazon products is trying to read the SEO-gibberish-riddled descriptions word for word with a straight face. Project Farm and Donut Media have some gems too.

I would definitely like to see some Amazon "climbing rope" tests!

I love love love my metolius FS II mini carabiners (the black one at the end of the video) for trad climbing! They weigh nothing, rack beautifully on even a small harness, and have taken a beating for the past few years without showing much wear. I also use them frequently to teach friends who are getting into climbing about climbing gear strength ratings. It is fun to hold them next to my gigantic rappelling locker and show that it is indeed stronger in most orientations. Some folks say that they are too small to comfortable clip while trad climbing, but I find the small size is just right for "one-handed use."

@HowNOT2

3 жыл бұрын

I like small ones when i can use them. But I have some big ones for my main uses and then a lot of normal sizes.

The jokes in this episode are way too funny. Made my day after a long workday.

Out here doing gods work, thanks Ryan

I'm glad I stumbled upon this as I did because for my uses these seem to be absolutely perfect. I've been using my quickdraw biners for camping but sometimes I want to climb and camp and need the draws. The use case for these biners would be hanging up my hammock, hanging from my mobile hangboard and using it to connect weights to my no-hang device. All those usecases put hardly 1kN of load on the biners, let alone 12kN and when I can get 6 of these for 13 bucks (basically $2 a pop) it's really a no-brainer. I don't have any wiregate biners anyway, but I'm still going to put some yellow tape around these just in case I'd ever forget.

Thanks for making this video! Good reference material for all the people thinking they can cheap out. These misleading comments and video reviews around that stuff are dangerous!

This was really useful so see and learn from. Can you breaktest some knots used in climbing? Dubble 8 knot, bowline, dubble bowline (with and without stopper knot) I subscribed, hope to learn a lot more 😃👍🏼

@joestevenson5568

2 жыл бұрын

the stopped in the double bowline is to stop it untying during cyclic loading, it doesn't contribute to the strength.

Could you test old ropes? Specially after the had som hard wipes from a rope jump for example. Would be super interesting for me!

@justindunlap1235

3 жыл бұрын

I'm pretty sure they did a break on some 40 year old caving pit rope

7 series aluminum has a tighter grain structure and would act similarly to a 6 series t6. Basically they skip the heat treat process most likely for less manufacturing process, but still have the toughness of the 7 series

Was pretty curious about the open gate and cross loading strength, considering they don't even mention it. Cool video regardless

Idea for you guys if you haven't done it. Show all the loading on the ropes during climbing falls. Ie taking a lead fall with soft and hard catches on different load factors. Record anchor loading, belayer loading and climber tie in point loading. I'd also love to see typical anchor loadings too vs angle (I personally try to keep below 60 degrees). This would be great info for the climbing community.

At face value rating 50% higher than the stamped rating seems like a good thing, but it really shows how much of a difference in quality control there is. I would wage that if these go really high in quality randomly they could also go the opposite direction too.

@cameronknowles6267

2 жыл бұрын

They normally should go higher then what they are rated for

@pcblah

Жыл бұрын

Well, if you're engineering for a safety factor of 2, there's nothing wrong with that. Unless you want a chair that'll explode once you reach 1lb over the "rated" load.

I remembered i had a caribiner hanging around the house while watching this video. GORUCK labelled, Omega USA, and rated for 31kn closed. Pretty happy with my chosen bag 'biner for holding gloves and stuff, if need be it's certainly super good enough! Thanks.

I like when he dramatically throws the paper, i can picture it gently fluttering to the ground

I've got a bunch of these. Thanks for testing them! I will be sleeping in my hammock in peace.

I bought these for general use and ended up using them on the leg straps I make for sailing PFDs (Mustang vests). The Mustang company sells leg straps (~$100) - to keep the inflated vest from just lifting up around your neck in the water. They're attached with only ABS plastic clips - which seem pointlessly weak. The main purpose of leg straps is to keep the life vest in a better position in the rare event you go into the water. These vests have Spectra or metal D-rings for attaching safety lines to (Jack lines) so you don't get washed overboard. My thinking was 1" webbing straps that have a sewn loop (11 bar stitches) on one end, carabinered to the belt webbing of the PFD, then run under the crotch, through the back loop on the PFD, then back under the crotch to carabiner the other waist strap. This side has a double knot loop so it's adjustable. I figured that these 12kN carabiners should be strong enough. Your weight would be distributed if you were lifted straight up by three points of attachment. If you were lifted by the D-rings less than half your weight would be held by the three leg strap attachments. My logic is that if I was in the water in a serious rescue situation I could quickly clip or tie into the D-Rings (not the leg straps) into whatever a helicopter or rescue vessel threw to me and with no possibility of me falling out of the whole harness PFD - quickly pull me to safety and be ready to help someone else. (I've given them to friends - but I wouldn't assume the liability of selling them. ) I really appreciate your video and testing. I guess it's full speed ahead for my straps. (Two of these carabiners cost about $12, the webbing costs about $6-8, it takes only few minutes to sew the single loop - I give them to my sailor friends. Saves them $100, while providing an additional safety margin. ) And if these carabiners in my straps are ever used to lift a sailor's weight it would be one time event. I also use them on my hammocks (200 lbs max dead weight pull so ~900kN. Hammocks are easy. A standard 30 degree hang is your weight on each line. And I follow the hammock safety rule of don't hang higher than you can drop on your butt.

@AndrewMoizer

Жыл бұрын

One thing I would add is that many carabiners (even climbing ones) have components that corrode quickly in salt water. There's a lot of info (and debate) on the carabiners used on sea kayaking tow ropes and tethers used in salt water. I don't doubt that some of the SS components (the little spring for an aluminum gate carabiner) will corrode quickly. I bought a little SS folding knife just before a 5 day course last fall and it was starting to rust by the end. It lived in my PFD so got wet during rescues. Many kayak towing systems use climbing rated carabiners despite the fact that the loads are very low. In addition, those with a notch can easily catch on smaller deck lines, which makes them more of a hazard in use. However, as others have said, for many applications something like this would work fine. In others, it would be dangerous. I would also be very interested in seeing the open gate load capacity.

I'm glad KZread placed your video in my list. I just bought 2 of these for camping but I wasn't sure if they're really that strong. Now I know they are that's cool. Also I'm trained for work at height so no worries I know what's good for climbing or not. :)

I recently got to see my family's horses for the first time since before quarantine, and we had some new lead ropes for them. As I've recently fallen down this channel's rabbit hole (literally with the caving episode -- more of that please!), I naturally thought "I wonder what this would do on the snap machine". It's a standard "Poly Lead Rope with Bolt Snap". Seems to be a sheath+core construction similar to a climbing rope, wondering if it's essentially just a super thick climbing rope (it's 0.75 inch thickness, or just about 19mm)

I'd love to see some load tests for Aerial Silks! My wife is all about it and wants a backyard rig. The many falls and flips have got to generate a decent amount of force.

@HowNOT2

3 жыл бұрын

I'll definitely do some Aerial videos this year

@levileab1987

3 жыл бұрын

@@HowNOT2 we would love to see you do an Aerial silks routine!

@garetwebster5002

2 жыл бұрын

I doubt you could even pull a 1kn fall on silks.

Keep it up man, great content

I bought some wire gates and auto lockers like those on amazon. I really like them for my Key chain and I like them way better than the silver hardware store carabiners for light loads like gym pulley attachments.

@HowNOT2

3 жыл бұрын

as long as they don't infiltrate the important biners

@eliwest2472

3 жыл бұрын

I actually just picked up a bunch of BD miniwires for keychains, bear hangs, hammocks, etc after I found a keychain biner in my climbing bag. I don’t want to chance grabbing the wrong thing by mistake.

I use these. But not for climbing. I use them to hang tools or transport my backpack from one height to another at work. And they work. For everything else I would only use real climbing carabiners.

Wow . Load testing does not lie. Great information. I am irata 1 . Work in the field. I will have nightmare because of your video. But I will wake up and not be injured . If I used this crap. I would sleep well until I woke up with a bad injuries . That would be a real nightmare . Thank you so much for keeping people safe . Thank you. All the really smart climbing people . Dis aluminum. Biners. You were mentioning the heat treat proceducure being skipped .scary . That's like a golden safety rule. Betting your life on technology. Dont do it. Have a back up. Or use something not prone to fail . Like thicker biners made from steel . Wow . Thank you so much . I did subscribe .

I have been quite curious on an Amazon product because I've used these before in non-life support situations and it is a Swing Swivel, 30KN Safety Rotational Device. In my opinion they are a hell of a lot smoother that the similar variations from petizl and notch and dmm i believe. I have always wondered if they are actually properly rated

Love your content. I was a bit disappointed in this vid because I was hoping to see you test the crosloading and open gate strength of these. For me having no idea what those ratings are is the biggest reason not to use them. I have considered paring one of these with a cam that is also only rated for 12 KN but thought better of it when the idea that the strength could drop down to under 7KN if it ends up crosloaded in a fall. I kinda hate to see you buy more of these but I would certainly tune in for those tests.

So these are totally good for securing my water bottle to my raft. Thanks Ryan and Bobby, I hate losing water bottles...and my tent, that really really sucks. Cheers

The sound of your machine reminds me of the Terminator crawling around before he gets destroyed!! LOL

It would be interesting to see how these would do in a drop test

UniJoy - the joy of using them once.

@allosch9

3 жыл бұрын

😂😂

Love this video. You know what's really terrifying to think about? That Q U A L I T Y C O N T R O L! 😱 How many of these knockoff biners we think make it out of the factory that are missing components (pins in the gate), warped or badly formed shape, or shitty forging (voids in the metal)? 🙃 Probably a lot...

@stickyfox

Жыл бұрын

the only thing anyone really cares about is "where's my stuff?"

I'd love to see the 24kn "off brand" Amazon climbing rated carabineers tested!!

@MattNicassio

2 жыл бұрын

@@geoffreyallenperdue okay sweet I'll look that up. I feel like anyone who has bought their own climbing gear to go outdoor climbing is going to never buy a 12kn carabiner and use it for anything besides a park slackline. And even THAT is dangerous!!! But I've for sure thought about buying the 24kn Amazon off brand carabiners. Esp when they show that they are tested.... I think usually by the American version of the UIAA. Which is supposed to be pretty darn good.... So maybe the videos are positive? I'll have to check it out. My thinking was even if they break at 80% of their supposed strength that's still 19.2kn. Which is STILL freaking overkill for anything I'm doing. But idk... @ the same time I can usually find a decent deal out there on name brand carabiners. It would just simplify things and I wouldn't have to shop around if there was an $8 24kn MBS carabiner on Amazon that I could pickup in bulk!!!

I use CAMP Nano 22s for accessories like water bottles and flashlights. I figure I need something to clip those with anyway, I might as well have a spare life-safety rated carabiner in case of emergency. I've also got them on some alpine draws, though the small gate can be a bit annoying to clip in to so I have a normal sized carabiner on the other side (CAMP Photon usually).

Think you could figure out a way to do cyclic loading tests? Maybe an arduino controlling the hydraulic ram based on tension from the dyno. Would be slower and a general pain in the ass, but might show more of the difference between these and proper climbing biners.

I like them for carrying keys and tying down loads in my truck bed. Usually the gate on "keychain" carabiners are on a spring that gets weak and is unreliable for staying clipped. They of course are no good for tying down loads because they are too weak.

I use them for my hammock and to hang up my training equipment. They're also good to hang your shoes on your belt. For that purpose I would say they provide a good bang for your buck, can't deny that

i found these on Instagram advertised for trad climbing because the cams are 12kn absolute false advertisement

@HowNOT2

3 жыл бұрын

omg! that is insane!

@jasonelford4474

3 жыл бұрын

I use them. I'm not that heavy.

@youhutchtube

3 жыл бұрын

Lots of pieces are under 12kn though. So why wouldn’t this be fine as long as you know what your doing especially in a multi piece anchor?

@jasonelford4474

3 жыл бұрын

@@youhutchtube Exactly. 12 KN is more than enough. You can hang a Ford F150 from 12kn carabiners.

@tomtom4405

3 жыл бұрын

@@jasonelford4474 no, a small wire nuts break at say 10kn so this is stronger in theory and sounds tempting at first, but you'd want to throw them out after any falls because some metals such as aluminium are very prone to fatigue if you get loading anywhere near their expected failure load. To be certified you need a D shaped biner to 20kn or better - and they picked that number for a reason!

Great videos!

I always use climbing carabiners for anything, it just a little more expensive but waaaay more useful.

You need polycarbonate covered with stoneguard to catch the flying pieces without scratching. The soft stoneguard is surprisingly good. But nice they did beeak above the rating. But yes gravity + weight is a great force multiplier.

As a non-climber that has used these types of carabiners for years for my keys, I can say me experience is that they all have withstood the foreces of whatever I snag my keys on vs my belt loops and not failed. Was the belt loops that have failed 1--% of the time.

I have a few of those. I abseiled down mount Everest with them no problem..... No wait... they do work for holding the handles of my shopping bags together in the car.

question: does the machine stay at a fixed force during each test or does it gradually increase force and continue to do so after the object starts to deform?...

Good enough for me for half a PAS or backing up the brake end on a rappel.

My guess for why they are breaking lower is less material at the strongback of the bend where most of them are shearing, mixed with a softer steel clip that bends and stretches further allowing a feed back onto the strongback of the carabiner. Thus, the further the clip bends and stretches, the more torsion on the strongback, hence a lower break force.

can i ask a qwstuon so what is the best tip off carbener to go for roccliming or working at hits what rating shud i bee looking for do i look at 30kn 7075 aluminum or uvers

We have already bought same carabiners for test. We use it as quickdraws just on angled lines. But it's scary to use for climbing - very small radius for rope...

12 kN or 1200 kg x 2 is definitely enough for "aerial yoga" 4:38

@kristapsl9

3 жыл бұрын

I do training on gymnastic rings indoors when weather are extreeme outside. So my rings are attached to triangle climbing carabines that rated 45kn, use them becauce need flat space to attach ring belts. O.k. but thing is I want to say is that those carabines are attachet to concrete sealing with 12mm anchors, that rated only to hold 100kg, and I think it is horizontally, mine are vertically. So in short I'm hangind on 2x 100kg rated anchors with my head down and doing all crazzy stuf with rings already 2 years with no problem at all, and don't think it ever will come off. My weight is 85kg-90kg. So yeah 2400kg is enough even for grown gorilla male doing aeiral yoga, dude! Even car weight of volkswagen golf 2015 is 3126 lbs it is 1417.93 kilograms so car can do yoga too hanging on two amazon carabines :)

Great video. Thanks

Hot take: They're fine on nuts and small cams (that break on less than 12 kN).

Great test. Do climbing ropes and slings age? I climbed in the 90s. My gear has been in the cupboard since then. Is it safe to give to someone else for climbing?

@monkeytechx

3 жыл бұрын

No

@DominiqueB

3 жыл бұрын

Ben's answer is a bit short and ambiguous: "No, it is not safe to give it to someone for climbing, Yes, they age." :-) Great to practice knots, how to handle gear etc on the ground at home, though.

Hey Ryan! There’s this Facebook group about Aerial safety called “Safety in Aerial Arts”. I’ve panned FUSION that claims to be from California in a Carpark mall unit, and pondered if Aerial Essentials actually sell any gear with their own names that’s actually rated. Swivels from Amazon of similar looks (Rock Exotica wasn’t one of them thankfully) have broken etc... that would be a swell niche topic to look into!

Great video... What about testing plastic carabiners speciali those selled in army or military surplus. Wondering why plastic ? Well for hammok camping are useful, specially if rain falls you want to have the less metal as posible to prevent lighting bolt attraction.

Good to see this type of review.... had wondered about the actual limits of these when deployed forr hammock use. Probably less than 12kn of force in that application, but still no fun to fall even if only a couple of feet from the ground

What else are you supposed to use for water bottle or kayak anchor???

Can you also test Amazon pulleys and tackle blocks, climbing pulleys and swing pulleys.

So they're actually pretty darn good! There is a space for in between a Keychain and a 22kn biner, I'd buy a few if the price point was worth it.

Another fantastic video! I’m like SO CURIOUS though about the Camp 22s! I use them myself yet their strength stats appear to break the laws of physics I’d happily throw $100 your way to break test them Or more! You decide

@GavynPendleton

3 жыл бұрын

The edelrid 19g biners are even crazier

@tomtom4405

3 жыл бұрын

@@GavynPendleton I use some of those, too small for many clove hitches or wearing winter gloves, but they have their place!

@GavynPendleton

3 жыл бұрын

@@tomtom4405 yea I bought two of the draws to see how they'd work. The answer is not very well. They are good enough for clipping nuts or for clipping my backpack to the anchor.

It would be cool if you broke 5 of each brand to see if there's inconsistencies in the breaking load

I saw a 6 kN Carabiner awhile ago. I was tempted to see if I could break it without being injured.

I mean, they are exactly what they claim to be. Seem to work fine for what they are. People do more than climbing with carabiners.

@theronwinsby

3 жыл бұрын

they are still deceptive and come in a bunch of plastic crappy packaging

@jort93z

3 жыл бұрын

@@theronwinsby Are they? They clearly say they are not for climbing, They clearly say they are rated for 12 kN. They are perfectly sufficient to hang something off your belt or whatever.

@katatat2030

3 жыл бұрын

@@jort93z the argument is that they are built exactly like climbing biners, and there's an image of a climber, which could make people think these work for climbing. It says they're not for climbing in like, the smallest print on the page. Also that they give incorrect advice about climbing biners in the instructions

@truc2fou915

2 жыл бұрын

Funniest part is that they are more expensive than climbing rated carabiner (got made in Italy, UIAA CE etc biner for 4€ without tons of plastic)

@arbitraryalias9825

Жыл бұрын

@@katatat2030you’ll never stop companies from making “knockoff” carabiners but Amazon could delist anything w/ deceptive marketing. Unfortunately deceptive marketing is basically part of their business strategy and they’d have to remove a huge % of their listings, so 🤷‍♂️

I think it just comes down to material used, especially where it was breaking. Shape can play a role, but material and production process plays a much more significant factor.

By skipping the heat treatment you get almost half tensile strenght so... I guess you are right Ryan 👌

I just subscribed for the third time... that’s a thing right? Your bad gear break tests are funny as fu...errrr k? Any news on the Beal escape? As far as good amazon gear to test, check out Xinda, and Camnal. They seem to be legit Chinese climbing gear companies and it’s always nice to be surprised. There’s a tonne of ambiguous legalese descriptions for sub 9mm ropes on amazon that are blatantly marketed at budget tight newcomers, but Xinda are priced like Petzl and Camnal are priced like budget used black diamond gear, never tried the Xinda gear. Lastly, read an old article on using pulley wheels at top rope anchor to offset weight differences and rope tension, there was some Veeerrrrry heated back and forth both with good points about pros and cons, figure this might make for an interesting topic to cover? As always, love your videos! Please keep making them funny like this, you’re great at polite mockery, although I miss the slow mo footage, something very cathartic about watching those fractures grow ^_^

This was definitely an ad for them for me, but I'm using them with 550 cord for tiedowns and ridgelines and stuff like that

"Its like ASMR but for destroying the planet" hilarious

If I got something for you to break test, how do I go about sending it to you?

@HowNOT2

3 жыл бұрын

Send me an email. ryan@slackline.com

Where is a good place to get climbing/repelling gear from Ive had mine about 6 years and and would like to replace it but the place I use to get mine where I love closed

"It's like ASMR, but for destroying the planet" XXXD 8:50 If they said "we're excited about this" 20 times, it could as well be a Blizzard ad.

I believe they're rated so low because of lacking QC. Some (batch) of them might barely scratch 12kN, while others are as strong as you found them. The Orange one (just) held 13.8kN. Some people will climb with low quality gear no matter what you tell them. Wether it's just old, heavily used, damaged or faulty from the factory. Other people might just use these for clipping stuff to their Backpacks. I'm actually impressed that they undersell rather than outright lie about their performance. So as long as there's no lie used to sell these, im all live and let live. Or climb and let climb?

Looking at the difference with the Camp carabiner, it appears that there might be a significant difference with cross-sectional shape that is somewhat subtle. There's a ridge along the outside of it in addition to the inside whereas the Amazon ones only have the inner (upper case I instead of upper case T). It may not seem like much, but especially with how they failed, it seems that the amount of torque it can withstand is by far the limiting factor, and the ridge on the outside makes a significant difference. Note, the Metolius also had this ridge. It's probably more difficult to make these shapes as they have a concave portion while the Amazon ones can get away with convex designs

Please test some swivels - both the good ones... and some chineasium ones. Thanks!

According to OSHA 1926.502(d)(3) Dee-rings and snaphooks shall have a minimum tensile strength of 5,000 pounds (22.2 kN).

Trying to keep this family friendly. Love it