Nice video. Glad it wasn't just a gear advertisement. Good simple system.

Nicely done. Thanks for packing that into a short 8 minute vid.

5:15 "I'm staying tight to the anchor" but then puts his harness prusik outside the system to use it to haul... but then he is not tight to the anchor and if he falls in another crevasse there will be slack between him and the anchor. Using your harness prusik to haul is smart but be aware that you are not very secure to the anchor in that case so make dang sure there's no other holes for you to fall in while hauling.

Stepping on the rope with those crampons made me nervous.

How much would you be able to lower the climber with that runner you used? It doesn't look like much....

This rock rescue technique and not the best (or even a good) option for a crevasse rescue technique. It is ok in theory, but in a real world crevasse rescue situation it is the least desirable technique. The problems with rope entrenchment and the overhang make this option almost impossible (if he can't climb out how are you going to get him over the lip with the rope dig in 4 feet and loaded?). For a better snow rescue system, lookup "drop loop" or "drop C". Start there and you can convert the 2:1 to a 4 or 5:1 if needed. Great effort by the guy in the video, too bad he is practicing an antiquated, nonviable technique.

@aerialrescuesolutions3277

2 жыл бұрын

Can you suggest an alternative? That would be more helpful instead of just bashing the folks who did something. Jim.

@bestbuilder1st

2 жыл бұрын

@@aerialrescuesolutions3277 Jim, maybe you should read my post again. You might find the "alternative" you are asking for. Also, I seriously doubt you can consider my post as a bash... more like calling out the obvious issues with this video's technique. I'm just trying to educating people with newer, updated, more effective options. There is a whole series on the subject put out by the AMGA that you can review on KZread for the alternatives you are asking for.

@ushi120

2 жыл бұрын

This technique is only used when you don't have enough rope (double length) for the U - / C- technique. But beside that, the video shows one big mistakes or one misunderstanding of forces. If you want to use the max. advantage of the pulley, the pulley has to be placed where the max. load and friction is working. In this example at the masterpoint. Btw. if you use a pulley/ prussik combination at the masterpoint you even don't need a assistant who move the prussik. The pulley will do automatically. If you have enough rope the U - / C- technique is preferable. In this case the pulley and a carabiner has to be fixed to the person in the crevasse. There you will have the max. advantage of the pulley. Very good example for U-/ C- Technique: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oYmDydGPdMe0qKQ.html Btw: if you don't have a petzl micro traxion, a pulley/ prussik combination will do the same job.

Really you used a biner as first pulley and a prusik to secure the load? Are you serious? 🤣 Better delete this video, this is less then a unsecure technique. 1. one prusik it's only half safety. 2. Use your pulleys where you expect the highest tension. 3. Use your ATC (it's on our harness) in guide mode to secure and haul the victim out of the crevasse.