Thanks for uploading this video man!. The information you share Is life saving

It was a wonderful and very informative video.

Great demo, thanks!

Very thorough video.

Thanks for sharing!

Overall, great video! Can you discuss some of the tradeoffs between using a trucker's hitch/overhand backup on the 2nd anchor versus setting 2 equalized anchors from the start using an overhand on the slings coming from the anchors? Was the trucker's hitch/overhand used because you were demonstrating 2-person crevasse rescue scenario, where backing up the rescuer quickly is more important? Would you trust the shelf created between your trucker's hitch/overhand anchor and the other?

@mountfairweather

Ай бұрын

Maybe just take crevasse rescue course dude

@joshuaforester

Ай бұрын

@@mountfairweather maybe just stfu, nobody asked you.

It looks like, ultimately, the entire load was being held by that one prusik. Is that best practice? What about transferring the load onto a knot loop on a bight that you pre-tied between you and the prusik? Shouldn't the prusik be a backup?

Thanks for the demonstration. The annotation gives the impression of a crevasse rescue with an actual jump into the crevasse. Would be nice to demonstrate how difficult it is to slow down the fall and do the process with full tension on the rope.

@jpp8596

2 жыл бұрын

If he was really holding someone that was fully hanging in a Crevasse, there's no way he could be up on his knees like he is in the first part of the video. As soon as you get up that high, you'd get pulled backwards off your knees.

Great video! what diameter rope do you use? what diameter cord? Static im assuming?

@vasocreta

4 жыл бұрын

I'm not the content creator but you are not always on a static rope on glacier routes. It really depends on whether the team expected any abseiling or not. There shouldn't be any dependency on whether the rope is static or dynamic when it comes to applying the crevasse rescue techniques discussed here. Regardless, a glacier rope is typically dry-treated at the very least to limit water absorption. As for length, diameter, etc. well I think that discussion is a neverending one. lol

@kaskorraky9473

4 жыл бұрын

Search Petzel Rad System. Petzl's Rad Line 6.0mm Rope is an ultralight, hyperstatic cord constructed for ski and mountaineering.

I think it would be sensible to approach crevasse in horizontal position NOT Standing as the weight of the body could make a big chunk of the icy snow fall and injured a person in the crevasse.

At time mark 18:48 you are completely out of the system. Was that an oversight?

@AMCOEAOWE

6 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the great demonstration and reply.

@samuelbeauregardt

6 жыл бұрын

Same thing for 11:10 I assume? and at the end, for your hauling system, wouldn't you want to use a second motion capture system with the prussik (a Garda, a Guide or something else? )

D

This is complicated

@vasocreta

4 жыл бұрын

yep. Takes training and practice...and practice.

Is it Canadian to pronounce crev-is not crav-ass lol

This is a not so good crevasse Rescue video! What the fµ^% moments: 1 - At 10:49, he completely detached himself out of the system. THIS IS NEVER DONE! In case the anchor fails, or in case he himself breaks true the same or other crack... We never leave the system unless we have to save ourselves from dead... 2 - AT 2:59, assembling the snow picket is cumbersome. This can be faster, preinstalled or with an carabiner. Taking of gloves might not be possible in bellow freezing temperatures + wind... 3 - At 10:00 The 3rd repositioning closer to the anchor makes no valuable action. He is still 2 meters away from the anchor. The extra carabiner installed to hold the 3rd person in case the prussik on the anchor slips, is questionable... instead of using a prussik it is much better to use a clove hitch into a central anchor carabiner. This one will not slip and wil be used with the main rope, thicker rope = stronger... The 3rd person in fact becomes the rescuer, the 2nd Who build the anchor, goes sit on top of the anchor. Both are always into the system!!! 4 - AT 21:07 He tells the 3rd person to feel free to get out of the system, if he feels save... This is really not done! At the same time, look how messed up system it is. Number 2 leaves a pulley for number 3... The messy coils number 3 has... 5 - AT 22:13 Number 2 went to the edge of the crevasse. Leaves his ice axe behind... in case the edge breaks, bye bye ice Axe... it was better used as an anchor... For no reason, he also advises to use a clove hitch behind the prussik. 6 - AT 28:20 Number 3 magically was on top of the anchor. Like it felt natural to him to be there... 7 - AT 29:50 He advises to use a ladder or other pulley techniques to get the victim over the lid... A ladder will only be another cumbersome tool that has it's weight... I forgot to mention "selfresque". Getting over the lid with "Munchhausen" Technique is a must to learn/teach. Other thougts: For building anchors, snow pickets are not necessarily better than Ice axes. Because Icer Axes were build to be used for Crevasse Rescue as a T-anchor. Saves you 350 to 500gr. We live in the age of Petzl Crevasse Rescue: Tibloc + Pulley + Microtraction.