I've done a couple of other videos to test peeling off PlastiDip with enamel over it. Once I'm done with the wet sanding video with Rust-Oleum Enamel, I will create another video showing the PlastiDip being peeled off the sample piece used in this video. The area under the paper towel has enamel on it a well that has been on there for several months so it should be a good test.

I prefer Krylon Fusion over Rust-Oleum for PlastiDip. The Fusion doesn't have quite as good of a shine nor does it add as much depth to the color, but it seems to play nicer with PlastiDip. Make sure you have a really good application of PlastiDip on when using a clear coat over it. :) If you are also asking about what type of clear coat to put on rims (not over Plastidip), I don't have direct knowledge in this area but I would recommend a clear coat for wheels, like the one from Duplicolor.

I see them use a foam block in the videos Ive seen, just makes sure the sanding is done evenly and not in small "spheres" of opacity when you press fingers through the paper

I have not tried to wet sand dip directly. If it could be done I would think you would still have to put a final coat afterwards to have a smooth surface as I think the sand paper would roughen up the surface to much. I'll see if I can get around to doing this. I'm actually going to redo my wheels in the new anthracite gray so I could test the wet sanding before peeling off the existing dip.

i know this was over a year ago. but have you considered using sandable filler primer after the plastidip coatings have been sprayed which is made to fill in small pits as the ones shown on your video . basically you do the same pattern( plastidip coats then primer /sand ,primer/sand, primer/sand working your way up using really fine grit until the item is a smooth as you desire then paint/ wetsand,paint/wetsand,paint/wetsand then 3 coats of gloss.after reading up on forums and watching a lot of different videos this is what I'm going to do on my f250 emblems yes it will be harder to get the dip off with the paint but it gives you the option to paint to match with a smooth finish and its removable.

Wish you had showed the additional coats you added.

What did you do to let the plasti dip look cleared after water sand it?

I think it would work even better if you used a block to wet sand it, it would be even smoother like a mirror

I would wet sand with 600 grit sandpaper. Use a spray bottle and spray water on the area as you sand. What to use clear coat comes down to personal choice. If you are adding another coat after wet sanding stay with the same product or one with the same chemical make up. Using Krylon Fusion over the Rust-Oleum will not will not work in my experience as the two did not play nice together when I has some over spray from one get on a finished section of the other.

Hello do you have any idea if the clear cracks over time?thanks in advance

@SeanVanMeter

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I do not have any information for performance over time as I felt this path is not worth the drawbacks. I highly recommend to NOT do a clear coat over plastidip. It becomes extremely hard to remove and it also can penetrate the plastidip and bond to the surface underneath unless a LOT of coats of plasti dip are used. Even with a lot of coats removal is still very difficult as it will only come off in small pieces and the clear coat will flake and go everywhere.

curious to see the results of removal too!

Foam block or a hard block? I'm planning on redoing this test this spring/summer so I can make that change for the next test.

It's easy to plasti dip and not get orange peel at all, just get a dip nozzle

Wait, doesn't sanding create lead dust?