I used to be in charge of a large haulage fleet running heavy trucks,we used to use sae30 in summer and sae20 in winter,one of the engines failed and seized up the crankshaft,we put that down to oil pump failure. A Chemist came in from Shell at the Bosses request and we discussed this multigrade thing at length with regards to thick and thinner oils which made me think about things in a different way. I was always in favour of thicker oils to maintain oil pressure at running temperatures,he explained to me that thinner oils flow easier at low temperatures so lubricate better when the engine needs it most at cold starts,he also said that engine oil was not just for lubrication it’s was there to cool the moving parts by keeping the friction between them to a minimum. A thin oil will pump round the engine quicker than a thick oil so the more oil circulating the more cooling is taking place even if the oil pressure isn’t quite as high,he convinced me and the boss and we changed to 10w30 in winter and 15w40 in summer, some of our engines went on to do over 1-5 million miles without any problems so I think he proved his point.

@realyopikechannel

Жыл бұрын

"he also said that engine oil was not just for lubrication it’s was there to cool the moving parts by keeping the friction between them to a minimum". lmfao he literally said "its not just there for lubrication" and then proceeded to just explain what lubrication is. cooling parts by reducing friction is like a core part of the definition of lubrication.

@AbcAbc-sp1od

Жыл бұрын

@@realyopikechannel You're being too literal. Yes, "lubrication" does involve cooling because you're reducing the heat of friction, like you said. But he was referring to the popular meaning of lubrication, which is how the general public understands it -- that lubrication is simply to reduce contact between surfaces.

@functionalvanconversion4284

Жыл бұрын

Great example! Made me shift the way I think about lubrication.

@malan828

Жыл бұрын

Just curious were those company cars a ford e series? Hahahaha

@matthewmorgan582

Жыл бұрын

@@realyopikechannel yes but it literally cools the metal because it's just like a radiator. The oil flows through cooler parts of the motor and brings the temperature to a uniform amount. It also cools the piston and cylinder wall.

This video is going to get a lot of views once people start linking it in forums for the weekly "what oil do I need" question

@liveandletlive2894

3 жыл бұрын

Hey my truck needs 10w40 but I have 250 galloms of -20w80 can I use it?

@CHCH179

3 жыл бұрын

@@Ayeitsscott i think...you should run to your glovebox and check it out

@liamleith8900

3 жыл бұрын

Lol facts

@Mireaze

3 жыл бұрын

Obvious answer is extra virgin olive oil, duh

@ThisIsInput

3 жыл бұрын

Hey I read my owner's manual, looked at my oil cap, and asked a service technician what oil my car needs, but I haven't found my answer on Facebook yet. What oil does my car need?

Hasn't anyone noticed that most oil companies have quietly switched to synthetic blends?? It seems harder to find straight up conventional oil anymore.

@austinsnider5836

3 жыл бұрын

Meijer sells conventional oil

@joew9392

3 жыл бұрын

@@austinsnider5836 I gave up trying to find it at Walmart but they did have a hybrid version at the same price so I bought it for my S-10.

@Monza62000

3 жыл бұрын

why would you use out dated oil??

@robs1852

3 жыл бұрын

Because everything I do is "outdated"....My cars and old school heavy metal

@joew9392

3 жыл бұрын

@@robs1852 Old cars are easier to work on..

I think another issue is the longer oil change interval. Whether conventional or synthetic more frequent oil changes help.

@toby2581

5 ай бұрын

Bingo. It doesn't matter how magic your fancy oil formulation is, metal shavings and combustion products are still abrasive/acidic and the best thing you can do is not let them build up in the engine.

So these are the essential oils I’ve been hearing about

@daftnord4957

3 жыл бұрын

and the only useful crystals are in radios and clocks

@drivesanoldcar

3 жыл бұрын

Lavender purple please

@BillinSD

3 жыл бұрын

Send me a message and I can set you up as your own work from home boss and distributor....... Grow your network today! LOL

@bryanmartinez6600

3 жыл бұрын

No no that's Amsoil

@bitTorrenter

3 жыл бұрын

Haha, yeahhhh

I only put the purest olive oil in cars

@ajayreddy3534

3 жыл бұрын

Italian identified

@michaelluciano1980

3 жыл бұрын

I like your style, Dude

@audikid89

3 жыл бұрын

Extra virgin baby!! Lol

@mact.26

3 жыл бұрын

Double virgin Royal Purple?

@Mc88Flyy

3 жыл бұрын

🙄

One thing you missed: Regarding high mileage oils, they usually have higher concentrations of detergents and dispersants than "low mileage" oils, in addition to seal conditioners. This is intended to gradually clean the engine over time, rather than using a "flush" which can clear buildup quickly enough to clog filters, screens or orifices.

@thunderbird97

2 жыл бұрын

had a girl that ran great, then we got married, and she got all clogged up, guess she must have used the wrong oil

@MDAdams72668

2 жыл бұрын

@@thunderbird97 sounds like a bit of contamination might have gotten in her

@Nicko_1

2 жыл бұрын

@@thunderbird97 sounds like it’s time to give her a service.

@Yellow-Rose

Жыл бұрын

I was going to ask about the flushing of an old high mileage car. I heard it shouldn't be done as it can cause damage bc of the debris and sludge clogging and getting moved into areas it shouldn't be. I was wondering if I should use a high mileage oil, but I feel better about it now as you pointed out the differences between that and flushing.

@350z33hr

Жыл бұрын

You got that from Google and copy/paste huh. L 😒😒

I had a customer who was a mechanical engineer, although not in the automotive industry. He was very meticulous and studied everything. He bought a used '85 Lincoln Town Car with a F.I. 5.0 liter. It used a lot of oil but had no visible leaks. He was sold on synthetic oil and it's improved detergents. He changed to Mobil 1 and then after 500 miles changed again and then after 500 more miles changed again. After each change his oil consumption dropped and continued to drop. After the 3rd change he ran the oil for 5000 miles and changed it at that point there after. It had very minimal oil consumption after that, approximately 1 quart between oil changes. The car had about 70k miles on it when he originally purchased it and it had about 130k when I met him and took over as his mechanic. I know the car had been owned by an elderly couple before he purchased it so I assume many years of low engine speeds and probably poor maintenance had resulted in carboned up rings but the fact that using regular Mobil 1 cleaned the engine up so fast was pretty impressive.

@armando9293

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing. Just curious, do you remember what sae grade of oil he used in that car?, perhaps 0w40? Since it has an overall better base stock than a 5w30 semi synthetic or a 15w40 mineral oil group 2 with low quality detergent components?

@scod3908

Жыл бұрын

That's the opposite of most people's experience; my consumption went way up on synthetic

@LauB88

Жыл бұрын

Quel grade ? 5w30 , 10w40 , ... ?

@shrujanamsyama9940

2 ай бұрын

Instead of such repeated changes, he could simply have used engine oil flush that would have done the trick in a single oil change

@kennywhiddon1497

24 күн бұрын

@@shrujanamsyama9940 That will clog the oil pump screen, not a good idea.

This video has been needed for a long time, I’ve been fighting this myth for 40 years of my 45 years as a mechanic and shop owner

@marcelfeierabend8276

3 жыл бұрын

dear Anthony, and what are you thinking about that? Would honestly interest me. I'm 50 years old and I think it's different from engine to engine. Same thing is with 'oil change' in older gears or rear diffs. greetings from Switzerland Marcel 👋😉🇨🇭 PS: sorry Sir for my strange English. My native language is German/ Swiss-german.

@ronjohnson8119

2 жыл бұрын

Same here.

@tombiondi9969

2 жыл бұрын

Def not a myth. I've been wrenching on cars for 40 years, full shop with a lift so I would consider myself a pretty advanced DIY guy. I had a Lexus LS400 with about 100k miles on it and always had conventional oil changes. I decided to switch to synthetic and parked the car for about 5 days after a change. I walked out to a huge puddle of oil from the RMS. The car didn't leak a drop prior to the switch. As a hail mary, I immediately changed BACK to conventional oil and within 100 miles it was back to bone dry. I put another 100k miles on it before I sold it and oil never hit the ground again. I am 100% in favor of synthetic oil and use it in all my cars. BUT, those cars have always run it from the factory. I would never do a switch again on a car that has used conventional oil for 10's of thousands of miles.

@captainamericaamerica8090

2 жыл бұрын

@@tombiondi9969 YOU NEEDED much heavier sythn. Oil! We use 15 W 4O

@tombiondi9969

2 жыл бұрын

@@captainamericaamerica8090 why? It used 5w30. That's a terrible idea. I shouldn't have to change viscosity so it doesn't leak.

I hated dealing with old farts at Autozone that would run 20w50 in their 2015 Corolla because “that’s what I ran in my 87 Chevy truck”

@101Volts

3 жыл бұрын

And that's why their gas mileage is trashed.

@matte8441

3 жыл бұрын

I'm a dealership mechanic and we often have customers do stuff like that. Had a customer with a 2018 RAV4 who insisted we used 5W30 because his previous RAV4 ran 5W30 and it's $5 cheaper than the 0W20 synthetic Toyota recommends. Very common for customers to challenge us and "know more" than the guys who wrench on these everyday.

@impalaSS65

3 жыл бұрын

They would be idiots for that in an 87 truck. The TBI-V8 had tight play and the metal was hard. anyting over 10W is hindering the oil reaching where it needs to be.

@cujoedaman

3 жыл бұрын

Coworker of mine looked up online what oil was needed for his 4cyl Escape and he found 10w40. I opened his hood and pointed to the oil cap which read 5w30. I told him to always look at the cap, never look it up. Now, we did his oil change with the heavier oil anyway because when he got it from his uncle, it had been sitting for a couple of years and I told him it would be ok to run it for a couple of months during the summer just to make sure everything is flushed out, but that we were going to have to do another oil change before winter because it could cause problems. He doesn't drive it more than a few miles at a time within town and not for very long, but I told him that if it doesn't get replaced before winter, it'll be harder starting and will kill his gas mileage. So, he learned a lesson.

@robertelmo7736

3 жыл бұрын

@@impalaSS65 Not after 200k miles lol...

Nicely done. My 2001 VW Passat wagon, with its longitudinally mounted 1.8T engine and undersized oil sump, has thrived on Mobil1 0W-40 "[Spoiled] European Car Formula" and the largest oil filter I can cram between the oil cooler and the left engine mount, a Mann 950/4. When we replaced the valve cover gasket last year, the top of this "sludge monster" engine was clean.

Valvoline full synthetic I've used since I bought my car and change it every 3000 miles and it's never dirty or broke down .Great stuff ! I use Valvoline full synthetic 5w30.Also use Toro full synthetic in my tractor , mower , power washer , snow blower .

I was expecting him to drink oil out of that beaker, and judging by how he looked at it, he was probably thinking the same.

@Me-zo8yc

3 жыл бұрын

😂😂😂

@plus3943

3 жыл бұрын

The f o r b i d d e n j u i c e

@stephenbaber1547

3 жыл бұрын

delicious on pancakes

@windwardpro

3 жыл бұрын

So did I! Chug!

I've driven nearly a million miles between 5 different cars all older than 2002 (delivery driver) using only Mobil 1 synthetic for the last 16 years and I've never once had an oil related problem. I change it about every 8k miles.

@R3lay0

3 жыл бұрын

Nice try Mobil 1 representative!

@watersauce3998

3 жыл бұрын

@Darren Munsell When I was a tech for GM I'd see people change their oil going off the oil change maintenance life and come in for their first oil change at 20k miles once it finally hit 0% with an engine that looked like an 80 year old smokers room after taking the oil cap off.

@CloroxGodThe1st

3 жыл бұрын

@@watersauce3998 amazes me how people will spend thousands on a new car and not take care of it.

@Fisico87

3 жыл бұрын

@@CloroxGodThe1st that's exactly what I don't understand. A lot of money is being spent, but there is savings on maintenance. I had exactly this problem with my used car when I bought it. because it had only a low mileage, i thought the engine would be in good shape, at least i thought ... the previous owners were using cheap engine oil with the wrong viscosity. in combination with high change intervals and short-distance operation, that messed up the engine. only with many oil changes within a very short time and the use of engine cleaners has the oil consumption sunk to a level that is hardly measurable. i was very lucky.

@bobvido9875

2 жыл бұрын

Thats good! But you change the oil ! Theres the magic with oils and engines ,you change the oil when its time. 👏

Jason your videos are always top notch. I like them because I learn stuff, and you never over burden our ears with annoying music that so many others feel is needed---instead you give s more information than us "regular guys" can mentally absorb in one viewing. So I generally watch them more than once.

@babboon5764

Жыл бұрын

This is the first of this bloke's video's I've seen If the rest are of this standard I have something interesting & useful to look forward too Cheers Mate

Thanks for posting this. It contained quite a bit of useful information. Back in the OLD days, rear main seals were made of rope, and as time went on, those seals turned into almost like wood, and the sealing swelling issues failed, causing those seals to leak.

@snowfall1771

2 жыл бұрын

Hence my rear main seal leaking on my 01 Infiniti i30T that I have to move tranny to chamge

@armando9293

Жыл бұрын

What years exactly you are referring to sir thanks

@marcussok6469

9 ай бұрын

Rope?????? Which cars, what years and where was this

@pgkr67

9 ай бұрын

@@marcussok6469 Jaguar uses rope seals for the cranshaft..

@kevietrucks3402

8 ай бұрын

Olds also uses rope seals throughout ros and 80s .jags also has leather for a diff seal.maybe you heard of a seal company called cr seals C is Chicago r is Rawhide

Finally a Engineering Explained video which I may understand

@DuckSongFan

3 жыл бұрын

Did you?

@user-zu3is6pc6u

Ай бұрын

*AN

I've been using synthetics in old cars ever since Mobil One was first available to me in 1976. Never had a problem. Haven't had any mechanical engine failures, either. It was a great advancement in motor oils, and proved that thin oils can lubricate just as well as thick ones.

@humansvd3269

2 жыл бұрын

provided it had enough additives.

@d.e.b.b5788

2 жыл бұрын

@@humansvd3269 ALL motor oils have 'additives'.

@ricktaylor3748

2 жыл бұрын

D.E.B. B You're wise beyond your years. Mobile 1 Forever.

@miguelcastaneda7236

2 жыл бұрын

Doesent work well om early turbo vehicles they always had very light leaks ..drips the synthetics..fly right through..and remember that graphite oli back in 70s...fouled up plugs and valves

@mr.anderson9938

2 жыл бұрын

That’s all the evidence I need , oh while I have you here what’s your take on earth , round or flat . I await your findings

Switching from conventional oil to synthetic caused leaks in a couple of old cars that I owned too. That is the main reason many people won't switch in older cars (70s-90s). In a newer car, I would only run Synthetic.

@lonniebeal6032

2 жыл бұрын

I ran synthetics in a 74' Chev pickup 350, 81' Dodge Mirada, no problems. Synthetics only leak if you have bad seals, synthetics have more detergents than conventional, so if sludge is keeping your engine from leaking, ya, it's a problem.

@Midge1k

10 ай бұрын

Try Lucas oil stabilizer to help slow the leaks . It also helps to minimize dry starts by staying on the piston walls

@TewChainsaw

3 ай бұрын

@@lonniebeal6032 nice! using 5w40 100% synt in a old chevrolet 153 (2.5 L4) engine. smooth and clean.

Rotary Head here I am glad you touch base on the rotary engine in the end. I have been using synthetic oil since my '91 RX-7 Turbo II back in 91. Also in 93 RX-7 R1 and 07 RX-8. The only time I was told not to use synthetic oil was having mineral oil in the rotary engine long time and switching over. But I have always removed the original mineral oil from new and switched over to synthetic. I have also talked to a lot of rotary engine builders and all say the same. Again thank you for touching on the rotary engine and the myth about synthetic oil

My dad ran the section at Mobil that developed Mobil 1 if you are interested in doing another video on the topic that goes even further in depth.

@saleemhoosen2236

3 жыл бұрын

Would love to see your dad addressing some frequently asked questions

@PlaneAndSimple1

3 жыл бұрын

He needs to see this

@kareem2262

3 жыл бұрын

Show your dad this vid maybe he can send him an email and they can collab

@trjb1767

3 жыл бұрын

Very cool!

@pdken3081

3 жыл бұрын

Well, I guess he must be 100 years old by now.

Absolutely brilliant video, Jason. You are a world-class communicator.

Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil is my favorite oil. I've used it on my Ford F-150 with a 3.7 L V-6 engine for 11 years and at around 149K miles the engine runs as well as when it was new. Thank you, Mobil 1 and Engineering Explained! 👍👍👍👍👍

As long as your engine isn't burning alot of oil due to poor maintenance. Increasing the viscosity can help. The bottom line is to decide if the synthetic oil is actually worth the extra cost. More frequent oil changes can never be a waste of money or time if the engine is only driven for short runs or non freeway use. Freeway driven miles, in my opinion is better for the engine. The engine has a better chance to burn off the accumulated contamination like carbon and sulfur.

@radioguy1620

10 ай бұрын

dont forget water

@Starwarman1

4 ай бұрын

You’re living in the 80s brother. Use the recommended oil thickness, and it is wasteful, modern oil is good for at least 5k miles. If you’re changing convential at 3k under most workloads you’re wasting money

I've been using Mobile1 since I bought my '04 F250. Now has 342K and I often don't change oil for 10K - 15K miles. Of, course I pray for protection also.

You haven't addressed the need for ZDDP in "old" engines, those with flat tappet cams. Much more important than leaking seals.

@pandabear4491

3 жыл бұрын

Yes would be helpful

@martinellul1604

3 жыл бұрын

i was waiting for him to talk flat tappet high spring pressure cars, didn't happen

@Roadking556

3 жыл бұрын

You tell tell them. This guy doesn't tell the whole story! I had a two flat tappet jeep one got over 400000k on it !the second just over a 100k ! Found out the U.S. government had oil companies change their formula for fuel economy .this new formula oil is find for roller motors but not flat hydraulic cams! Why this information isn't main stream news is beyond me! Thanks A lot you all good for nothing left . While it cost me thousands!!!

@opera93

3 жыл бұрын

Reg Fake thanks!!

@bowez9

3 жыл бұрын

@@Roadking556 IMO because rollers started being mainstream in the mid 80s, and the number of 40+ y/o cars out there is low. If its a built motor you should know what is needed.

For me with my 1967 Wolseley Hornet I use a conventional, 20w50 blended specifically for classic engines. The A-series engine has larger tolerences so the thicker oil is recommended.

I had two motorcycles which were two cycles. I used synthetics to eliminate exhaust smoke. The synthetics also eliminated the carbon deposits on the piston crown.

@pauljanssen7594

Жыл бұрын

That's what people do to pass the smog test of an engine that smoked they would put synthetic oil in which doesn't burn blue 🔵

@southpark159753

Жыл бұрын

on those 2 strokes carbon can be holding together some things will fail after switching.

@PongoXBongo

Ай бұрын

@@southpark159753If that were true, then wouldn't a new engine with zero build-up fail?

Thank you for the bonus on the rotary lol I was hoping to hear about them and I'm glad you mentioned them

The leaks were there already, synthetic just allowed the hidden to be apparent.

@evilkillerwhale7078

3 жыл бұрын

Sometimes I just want it to stay hidden

@R4M_Tommy

3 жыл бұрын

@@evilkillerwhale7078 that way, your engine will die sooner. Great thought.

@mercury0214

3 жыл бұрын

@@R4M_Tommy no it won’t lol if gunk is holding that oil in let it!

@ValkyrieStarTV

3 жыл бұрын

@@mercury0214 And if that gunk blocks oil getting to where it's really needed and it dies even sooner? Fix the real problem - the seals, before you destroy the whole engine! A stitch in time saves nine!

@mercury0214

3 жыл бұрын

@@ValkyrieStarTV oil leaks outside your engine big Brain how is gunk on the outside gonna clog your engine you mong?

Good video! Another reason to not use synthetic in an old car that already burns oil, is the cost associated with burning the expensive oil! I think I would buy the cheapest oil until I could replace the car. Amsoil advises to install their oil in mechanically sound engines. A car that has been running on conventional oil for 150,000 miles probably isn’t all that sound any more due to wear and sludge build up, even if changed often,because of higher volatility and lower maximum operating temperatures compared to synthetic oil.

As a 3rd generation mechanic I always chose Valvoline in my fleet and use OEM agency filters ie Motorcraft Or AC and so on.. always use the appropriate API grade

Thank you for explaining the history behind some of the reasons they initially got a bad rap. And why you would use different viscosities vs different additives, high mileage etc... great vid!

@richardbruggner8403

2 жыл бұрын

Don't know about high mileage oils BUT my 2000 Chevy 5.3 started lifter ticking on start up . Changed oil n filter @ 5 K with one quart trans fluid at 275 K . Now1500 miles later noise gone . ( It worked for me ) . Rick bruggner Miami fla .

Thank you for that. Cleared up a lot of questions I had.

My brother recently bought a Daihatsu HiJet (one of those cool little mini trucks with the steering wheel on the right). Interestingly, the service manual contains a clear warning NOT to use higher viscosity oil than recommended as it will create a risk of damaging seals and gaskets due to over-pressurization, thus causing leaks.

This guy is a tremendous communicator of knowledge.

@dwrldgster3151

3 жыл бұрын

So am me

@rolexbatman7612

2 жыл бұрын

As true on my self

Loving this one brother thank's for sharing very important information giving blessed love to all knowledge is power hopefully everyone pays attention keep up the good work 🙏🙏🙏🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲💪💪💪

I love how the top of those jugs line up with the lines in the wall.

been using mobil1 in every car an mower back i 75 ...thanks to it ..my vw bug started when we had the big snow in 78...

Great video and education. Thanks for sharing!!!! I learned so much.

Debunking car myths one oil at a time. Good work as always my man. ❤️

From my own experience, when i changed from a mineral oil to a semi synthetic oil on an old hilux, i needed to change the filter after a couple of 1000 kilometers, it was full! Then I changed the oil and filter again after like 5000 kilometers, after that back to normal intervals.

Decades ago my dealer asked me not to use synthetic in my Mazda RX-7 Rotary Engine. Mazda also had a sticker with the same statement under the hood. I was told that the rotary engine did not get hot enough for synthetic oil use in the 1990s. I moved a few times and multiple Mazda dealer service shops enforced high quality conventional oil for rotary engines as they ran cooler.

They told me the same thing, use thicker oil and I did switched from the factory recommended 10/40 to 20/50. The engine started to rattle and vibrates (very similar to a bad engine mount), harsh cold start and slightly worse fuel economy. Switched back to the regular 10/40 and the engine back in shape immediately. Its debatable but from my personal experience ALWAYS stick to factory recommended viscosity.

@VioletGiraffe

Жыл бұрын

I second the advice to stick to factory recommended params, but also, maybe you should have chosen 10W-50 instead of 20W-50. The first number is the cold viscosity, the second number is hot viscosity. 10W-50 is the logical choice for a thicker version of 10W-40.

This is a very good and informative video. Thank you Dexter Manley.

Moving out on your own and realizing(but already knowing) that your truck-driving dad was a genious.

Thanks for the video! It made my decision easier. I have an old '99 suzuki car with moderate/high milage(at least about 170 000km) and I switched from part synthetic/hc synthase (10w-40) to a synthetic oil (5w-40). No problemes so far, car starts a bit easier. I didn't have any bad experience, just positive. I mainly switched due to extreme weather conditions in Europe (cold winter days, really hot summer days) and it should be cleaning and protecting the engine more effectively. at this age, it might be even more important. I rather go with a cheaper, but quality brand, but put synthetic from now on. Next time I'm thinking of trying a full synthetic of this grade.

@jingshanhuang3634

Жыл бұрын

whats the diff between synth and full synth

@davidellis279

Жыл бұрын

Can’t see the logic in using semi synthetic oils because it’s a mixture of both mineral and synthetic which rather defeats the objective,it is of course your decision and if it works for you then no problem,I always use 0w40 in my 150,000 mile BMW X3 diesel and change it every Spring along with the filter,I only do about 6,000 miles a year so it’s probably a bit overkill really,the engine inside looks as though it’s just been assembled with NO sigh of sludging or carbon deposits anywhere,being a diesel mechanic this is very important to me, I’ve had dozens of diesels since my first one in 1985 and NEVER had any sort of engine problem so what I’m doing can’t be that bad, wouldn’t go back to Mineral or Semi Synthetic oils now after the success I’ve had over the years with fully synthetic.

Can you do a video about the primary differences between conventional, hybrid, and full synthetic oils? Thanks!

Love your videos! So informative, entertaining and aesthetically pleasing lol

FWIW, I’ve been using synthetic, usually Mobil 1, for about 15 years in my ‘91 RX7, which sees a lot of track use. It’s still on the original, unopened factory engine, with good compression at 170K kms, although an internal coolant seal has failed, so I’m finally going to have to crack the keg.

Your videos are thee most informative & thorough on the net. Thank you, sir 👍

Many good points made here. Confirmed many of my own theories about motor oil.

The single most informative video on car engines I've ever watched

I use AmsOil in my 79 Continental, 86 Grand Marquis and 86 F-250. All are getting old, and all of them run GREAT on high end synthetic. If anything, it has greatly reduced oil burning and leaking.

All motor oils now have seal conditioner, both synthetic and non-synthetic and not just high mileage oils, which are slightly higher in viscosity. The one engine I remember higher viscosity oil fixing excessive oil consumption, is the old Ford Escort, that had crankcase ventilation issues. Just going from a 5W30 to a 10W30 oil, actually reduced oil consumption to an acceptable amount in those engines.

I like the synthetic blend High Mileage oils. My wife’s 2010 Chrysler town and country with a 3.8 liter V6 had a TSB on these engines were prone to consume a quart of oil between 700 to 1,100 miles from the factory. Our van already had 101,000 miles when we bought it. First time I used what the engine called for which was 5w20 and by the time it was due for change it used 2quarts of oil. I’ve tried many brands of 10w30 but no success. Finally I was suggested to use a High Mileage synthetic blend oil which was Castrol High Mileage synthetic blend 10w30. By the third oil change it reduced consumption in half and I’ve been sold ever since.

As usual, your explanations make total sense. Your flickering oil pressure light hit a nerve with me. My 96 Impala SS (purchased new) had about 275,000 miles on its 5.7 liter LT1 when I started noticing the dreaded flickering oil pressure light. No oil pressure gage came with the 96 Impala. The engine has never seen any oil except Mobil One 10W-30 - changed every 5,000 miles without fail. The light would only flicker on a hot summer day while idling at a red light with the AC blasting on high. I tried switching to Mobil One 10W-40. I could not see any significant improvement. I finally had to admit that the old LT1 is worn out. It has since been replaced with a rebuilt LT1. No more flickering oil pressure light. 8-)

Great job once again!

good job of explaining old questions that I have argued both sides of! Thanks

Just for informational reasons. If your oil light flickers and the oil level is okay check the oil psi sensor before switching to a higher viscosity oil. I have found this issue on several vehicals.

@user-zu3is6pc6u

Ай бұрын

*vehicles

I love the absolute correct info you share. I don't love imagining the looks of horrid confusion on many peoples faces, that are trying to keep up with you. They're still pondering on the 'early Ester formulations'. 'Who the heck is Ester!?!?!'

The question is, what is considered "old" car?

@Stale_Mahoney

3 жыл бұрын

not in years, we are talking km wear on engine here, taxi would get (old) faster than grandma shopping once a week

@johannkuhn5685

3 жыл бұрын

@@Stale_Mahoney Years (technically when the car was built, not how many years old it is) as well, as he addressed the matter of seals in old cars. And to comment on what the rest of you said: In a local old car club the constitution states 30 years. But there are a few old members who forgot about that change (and also don't realise that time is moving on), and they firmly believe anything after 1976 is new. In fact about 3 years ago (when my '87 Mazda 323 was 30) they actually told me in so many words that it will "never" be an old car!

@mercury0214

3 жыл бұрын

@voice of reason yeah that’s a good rule of thumb unless it’s taken care of of course

@Stale_Mahoney

3 жыл бұрын

@@johannkuhn5685 ohh jess veteran cars are to be considered 30+ quite funny how some oldtimers think nothing they considered new and fancy when they're veteran car became a veteran will ever be one xD a bit sad, my first car is a veteran 88 volvo 740 and in 3 years my daily will become as well (93 volvo 240) still popular for teenagers to be racing around in ;)

@pdr5926

3 жыл бұрын

Any originally carbureted car is old enough to be considered old even if it is a low mileage one.

I've actually got an engine that suggests a thinner oil for the winter with a thicker oil for spring and if opperating in desert climates, even heavier oil so, yes there may be a valid reason to switch to a thicker/heavier oil even in a synthectic

@kais2345

Жыл бұрын

100%, my first gen rav4 manual suggests anywhere from 5w-20 to 20w-50 depending on the lowest temperature you're likely to experience.

One additional thing you should’ve touched on is the lack of zddp in modern synthetic oils that were used to protect flat tappet cams in old engines.

@ezrawaters6653

3 жыл бұрын

Thankfully new oils compensate by using higher levels of Boron, Molybdenum Disulfide, and Titanium Oxide, which is enough protection for new engines. But still not enough for flat tappet cam engines

@leftyeh6495

Жыл бұрын

Diesel oils still have plenty of it. Or you need to go to something like amsoil z-rod.

@rickss69

Жыл бұрын

Another old wives tale...quality synthetics have more than enough ZDDP for older engines. All you need is the proper viscosity to maintain correct oil pressure.

@kennygee2715

Жыл бұрын

I have a jeep 4.0 and I recently read in the Jeep forums people saying these old flat tappet cams need sync or you'll ruin them. So guys run different diesel oils etc. I have been running supertech 5w-30 for years without a problem. Jeep has 212k miles.

@wallacegrommet9343

Жыл бұрын

ZDDP is the last line of defense when the oil film is displaced. Or so I am led to understand. And it’s fatal to modern catalytic converters. Bye-bye zinc additives at high levels like in the past.

Thank you for debunking old myths!

about the thicker oil for worn out engines: I've been doing that for years to buy me time to get the parts for a rebuild or replace. My old Dodge Dakota's 3.9 got to where it wouldn't hold oil pressure at idle in the summer when running the A/C. I simply started adding Lucas to the oil at oil changes. I bought a new engine to put in it, and drove on for 50K miles before other issues made the replacement required. Still wasn't having oil pressure issues so long as I added the Lucas. When I tore the engine down, I found the rod bearings to be fairly worn, and the mains to have a good deal of wear as well. The issue that pressed me into replacing the engine?... a belly pan gasket on the intake failed and it was inhaling oil from the valley.

Thanks for the info regarding the Rotary engine, was interested in that!

Thx for the rotary excursion in the end. :)

I can speak for all of us m50/m52 boys on this one, but this was actually really helpful

Perhaps the most extreme example of burning oil might be my '53 Johnson Seahorse 2-stroke running on a gas oil mixture of 15-to-1! Using non-synthetic oil, I had to clean or change the spark plugs after about 10 hours of operation. Once I switched to synthetic oil (still using the 15:1 ratio), I never had to change the spark plugs again!!! This made such an impression on me that I started to use synthetic oil exclusively when I bought my '79 RX7, that burns crankcase oil by design to lubricate the rotor. In 23 years of driving, I got 320.000 miles on that engine and it was running fine and smoke-free when ! finally sold it for a larger car!

Very good video. I believe there's plenty of common sense to suggest there is no issue with synthetic oil use in older engines. The high mileage oil use should be weighed against cost/benefit. All things being equal, higher levels of ZDDP's (not Zinc by itself) are useful for some older flat tappet street engines. These are found to be present in much lower quantities than in pre-90's motor oil. In the case of the older flat tappet engines, this is not a major issue after break-in. (Still important however.) The consensus amongst some oil chemistry experts and engine builders supports this.

@martinharris5017

Жыл бұрын

Use a ZDDP=rich oil in air-cooled VWs.

Thanks for the bonus rotary fact. I've been scared into buying conventional for my 85 RX7 by the guys on the RX7 Club forum for a few years now!

@SlikLizrd

2 жыл бұрын

Your Spinner engine will run perfectly on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum -- just make sure you use the viscosity that's recommended by the manufacturer !

Switched my old impala over to synthetic and have had zero issues

@Roadking556

3 жыл бұрын

What synthetic oil did you use? Most synthetic on the market now days is not full synthetic!

@Mr-zi2bn

3 жыл бұрын

@@Roadking556 GM Dexos

@Roadking556

3 жыл бұрын

@@Mr-zi2bn sorry not familiar with that oil. Not sure if it is a true synthetic

@Roadking556

3 жыл бұрын

@@Mr-zi2bn and unfortunately outr government here in the us lets manufacture advertise full.synthetic when in fact it is not .and your screen name makes me uncomfortable.

@PlayinWithMahWii

3 жыл бұрын

@@Mr-zi2bn GM Dexos is a synthetic blend, and a 30% synthetic, 70% conventional blend at that. Not really equivalent to the synthetic being tested here.

Wow really great content. Great work guys respect

My 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, equipped with a 4.0l , has run Mobil1 10w30 since new, she now has 453,000 miles and still runs great, all original engine.

Great presentation again as usual. I've corrected or should I say improved low oil pressure at idol by dropping the pan and replacing the rod bearings. That's all. No resurfacing the journals. Those fixes made it possible for another 50,000 miles on an old chevy corsica.

@bobvido9875

2 жыл бұрын

Only 50k miles on the Corsica? You must be s racedriver! You should get 250k miles.

@shamoy1000

2 жыл бұрын

@@bobvido9875 Yeah that little V6 eventually went over 300K. I sold it to a high school student who for all I know might be still driving it.

I was confidently rebuilding engines at 19 years old, and applaud your video - online with my experience - that synthetic is the way to go. The last bastion of fighting a thicker oil is variable valve timing mechanisms being knocked out of sync. And of course syn's are thinner than comparable standard oils.

@kevinstonerock3158

2 жыл бұрын

My dad had been using conventional 10w-10 motor oil in his cars since at least 1960 so synthetic doesn’t have the corner of working in cars. As long as you don’t use heavier motor oil for a while and try to switch back thinner oil will continue to work fine. When heavy oil is used the clearances has to wear before the heavy oil will circulate where the thin oil had no problem.

@Jon-O.

2 жыл бұрын

@joe pimental who the heck taught you about oil? A viscosity weight oil is no different on conventional or synthetic. You obviously don't know what your talking about.

@girohead

2 жыл бұрын

joe, I think you're addressin two issues, as the video did. That 1) sythetics are good, and (2) (not as clear) that the thicker oil argument (also a tangent in the video, not specific to synthetics) is also a concern for VVT. I don't work on others' cars but I do review many, and I've seen the issues you're alluding to, I think. Timing chains/tensioners too. Stay in spec...

ive noticed synthetics or perhaps specific mixtures going black and watery more quickly than blends or conventional. that said the top end of my engines has improved as i do regular oil changes. magnatec kind of scares me at how fast it burned of by comparion. supertechs high mileage seems to be pretty good at lubricating and cleaning the engine.

@radioguy1620

10 ай бұрын

ran supertech in my 2.3 Ranger from 66 k miles to 292 k and had a head gasket go bad, took apart the motor and had almost zero wear , even the valve guides were perfect, always changed a 3 k miles.

Thank you for the great info and great video

I put 0w20 in my Tesla model 3. Still clear as new after 20k miles. Do I still need 0w30?

@TanmayChhatbar

3 жыл бұрын

I've heard putting some 5w50 on the brakes helps improve mileage.

@RadDadisRad

3 жыл бұрын

It go with mineral oil

@pi1797

3 жыл бұрын

Don’t forget your blinker fluid on your Tesla...

@pi1797

3 жыл бұрын

Fuzin Marsupan It was a joke.. duh

@sferg9582

3 жыл бұрын

You must be sure the oil contains LiPo in great concentrations.

When all is said and done :-) Good video, as always.

Thanks for the video. Going to the store now to get some high mileage mobil 1

I've just passed 300,000km in my car running Mobil1 since day 1, maybe it's time to switch to high mileage stuff as my consumption has reached 1L/1500km, although I found one of the two PCV ports under the throttle plate clogged which once un plugged seems to have reduced the consumption a bit. Still, no leaks, no visible smoke and no loss of performance at this mileage made the premium oil investment well worthwhile long term.

@ChiDraconis

3 жыл бұрын

Your choice - I went to this product with above excellent result

@opera93

3 жыл бұрын

Interestingly about the same here on M1....

@humansvd3269

2 жыл бұрын

Why not fix the clogs?

High mileage oil has seal conditioners that recondition your old dried out seals. They also have different cleaners to remove old sludge.The engineers spent years developing these oils so use them.

@leftyeh6495

Жыл бұрын

They do nothing. You can try them if you have leaks, but I have had less leaks with Mobil 1 than any high mileage oils. Most of the time they're just a little more spendy and sometimes available in weights not commonly found in regular synthetics.

@rickss69

Жыл бұрын

May or may not help...jury is still out.

Funny. I had a Harley-Davidson (2004) one of the early twin cams. HD highly discouraged the use of synthetic because it may cause Cam bearing "skate" that may cause flat spots on the ball bearings used for the cams. I used synthetic anyway and never had a problem. Well two years later HD came out with their own HD branded synthetic oil designed for HD twin cam engines. At that time I was working in the Environmental Management field and I had access to the HMIS (Hazardous Material Information System) where I had access to proprietary information for just about every produce that had a MSDS (SDS). What I learned was the HD oil was made by a well known oil company and there was no difference between the HD branded oil and the oil company's branded oil.

thank you very much for such an useful information that not everyone knows.

I have an older, high mileage engine. Used 5w30 had 15 psi oil pressure at idle. Switched to a 5w40 now I had 20psi at hot idle.

@macdaddybill

3 жыл бұрын

I am running 40 weight in wifes 11 regal because GM screwed up on some those 2.4 engines and have bad seals. We did oil consumption tests at dealer and they acknowledged but car was too old and vin didn't match with cars GM identified that they would fix for free. Running the maxlife based on my friend who is a long time mechanic who has worked for Honda, Buick and mercedes. He said it should help cut down consumption and it has a little.

Also, synthetics got their reputation for leaking from the very first ones. (I think Mobil was there too) They didn't even "look" like oil, but were a silvery/ graphite color and thin as water. Those even came with a notice on the can that you oil pressure light or gauge would flicker at idel and not to be concerned about it. "Your engine is still being properly lubricated" . Anyone else remember those?

@Bawkr

2 жыл бұрын

my dad ruined an opel gt engine with graphite oil it wasnt a modern synthetic oil though.

Always enjoy your videos. Unfortunately, this one didn't touch on engines with flat tappet cams. My understanding is the pre-roller cam engines need an oil with a high Zinc content, do to the two flat surface, metal on metal contact. Lots of options on the topic, but it does seem that the motor oils available with a high Zinc content tend to be conventional.

@jarenlast3585

2 жыл бұрын

Gss

@anthonysgarage

2 жыл бұрын

@@jarenlast3585 What's GSS?

@paulmaxwell8851

2 жыл бұрын

You are entirely correct. The video didn't mention this important detail.

@lolbuster01

Жыл бұрын

They removed zinc because catalytic converters. Everything good gets sacrificed at the alter of the EPA

That was a perfectly simple explanation in my opinion. It was neat to know that a rotary engine uses oil like that. Does the rotary engine then been to topped off more often.? Seems it would

@RockandrollNegro

2 жыл бұрын

Not necessarily. A modern SPARCS Wankel engine burns less oil than a standard higher compression inline 4cyl with VCT or VVT, and it burns much less oil than even the most efficient modern Diesel. But compared to a modern pushrod V6 or V8, that's where the Wankel fails in oil burning comparisons. But it's less an issue of the Rotary being an inferior design and more an issue of Pushrod V-blocks having 125 years of constant devolpment and engineering innovation behind it to address its shortcomings.

I had a an engine with 375k miles and it had some weak compression rings and would smoke a lot if it idled long but wouldn’t smoke if you just went on your way. It did consume about a quart of oil a week. It used enough oil for the last 3 years that I owned it I never changed the oil, in fact I put the used motor oil from my other vehicles in it that I removed from my other vehicles.

@bdcasey11

3 жыл бұрын

Holy crap dude. My old jeep had 320k miles and only lost half a quart over 3,000 miles.

@Patrick94GSR

3 жыл бұрын

yeah my Integra with 373,000 miles gets about 1 quart added every 6 months. I change the oil on it once a year, because I drive it less than 5K miles per year. Been using Mobil1 0w-30 on it since way back in the mid-2000's, when it was in the mid-100k's on the odo.

@mercury0214

3 жыл бұрын

4.6 2v here 468,000 miles doesn’t burn any noticeable amount over the entire oil change

@Briggsian

3 жыл бұрын

@@mercury0214 those engines are pretty damn bulletproof

@Shabbe02

3 жыл бұрын

Patrick94GSR you should switch to 0w-40 if not even 0w-50

The majority of UK RX8 engine rebuilds come in the first 80k miles, so perhaps we never needed to worry about what oil we were putting in... You can clean the housing faces and rotors while it's in bits after all!

@233kosta

3 жыл бұрын

Ideally using the right oil should delay the need for a rebuild ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

@andrewvicars8273

3 жыл бұрын

Should be premixing with an RX-8 anyway..

@peterkowlessar7823

3 жыл бұрын

I had read somewhere a while back that someone had been using piston engine aircraft oil in a rotary engine as that oil is designed to be burnt whereas normal motor is not. No idea how true that is.

@DriftCentral

3 жыл бұрын

@@andrewvicars8273 it doesn't need premix as long as your oil mettering pump is functioning properly an u are using the right oil

@Ty4ons

3 жыл бұрын

Peter Kowlessar Two stroke oil used in premix is also designed to burn in an engine and will burn much cleaner than regular engine oil.

0W-40:Mobil 1 is the recommended oil for my Porsche 911-and it’s been using oil from brand new at 1 quart per 1000 miles. Has now for 123,000 mile.

One thing that's very important when using any modern oil in an old engine is zinc additives for very old cars with flat tappet camshafts

i had a significant mct-oil consumption last month. leaking only occurred when taking too much

@bartzalewski

3 жыл бұрын

too much MCT-oil is a mistake you only make once in your life

@drivesanoldcar

3 жыл бұрын

Crack me up

I have been running Synthetic oils in my Hi Mile Cars for the past 15 yrs. Some were switched with over 200,000 on them, no problems

I switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic after my 97 Oldsmobile’s engine suffered a catastrophic failure at 122,000 miles. When the engine was replaced with a series III, I ran full syn ever since and my car runs and performs better now than it ever did ❤️

@rkgsd

2 жыл бұрын

If you're suggesting that not using synthetic caused the engine to fail, I wouldn't be so sure about that. It may have been an engine defect or just a poorly engineered engine. Afterall it's GM. Too that end, it may have failed even with synthetic.

@krystalmckittrick6075

2 жыл бұрын

@@rkgsd nope! Not saying that at all! I actually had already switched the old engine to full syn before it failed, just not Mobil 1 brand. The car had sat for quite some time before I got my hands on it and that always conjures up a slew of issues. My dad always warned me about when vehicles hit that 100k mark, that’s when issues usually start cropping up. That’s why I always kinda crack up reading used car ads. “Low miles - 145k - $9000!” 😅Nah.

Very informative. Excellent job explaining

Was adding half a quart a week on my Saturn, oil burner. 15 years later at 300k I’ve been adding 10-40 instead of 10w-30. No issues

@sammolloy1

3 жыл бұрын

Everything from a wristwatch to the Titanic should use the thinnest oil that will stay on the parts. You did OK with that car but a 0W-20 Camry oils its camshafts from above like rain from tiny holes in the cam cover. So the new light viscosity Lucas might stay glued to the parts better if you only drive it occasionally but I wouldn’t experiment beyond that.

Removing the oil metering and premixing making the rotary what it should be from the beginning: a rotary 2 cycle-ish.