Vacuums need static pressure more than speed of airflow, and I think that's where the designed impellor let you down. Excellent first attempt, and I look forward to seeing updates

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for the feedback :-)

@stefanarzbach1554

11 ай бұрын

Designing a more preassure optimized impellor would use up some of the power savings by requiering more torque to gain mor suction power

@htko89

11 ай бұрын

What is an improvement to the impellor he can make? otherwise this is just restating existing ideas but not directly relevant to a centrifugal impeller design

@AJBtheSuede

11 ай бұрын

@@htko89 Just getting an older, small ordinary vacuum cleaner and using the impeller and impeller housing from that is probably the easiest choice.... Static pressure fans/impellers are actually really, really hard to design correctly. They need much tighter tolerances and gaps than you can get with a 3D printer :)

@TheProtagonist_777

11 ай бұрын

​@@AJBtheSuede , a good 3D printer can hold very tight tolerances, though you can buy several new vacuums for the price of a the printer

Next step: design a complete vacuum cleaner 😅

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Haha I had that idea in mind at some point. Well, let's see whether others are interested as well.

@suryakamalnd9888

11 ай бұрын

​@@greatscottlab Yep! But, I'll watch anything that you make.. not for only the stuff you make.. but, for your amazing conte.nt and the stuff you make as well.

@thisfeatureisbad

11 ай бұрын

@@greatscottlab That would be awesome to see! You may remember my comment with a suggestion from a few years ago, building your own vacuum. Maybe it will become a reality soon. 😄

@bekim137

11 ай бұрын

​@@greatscottlab Yes do it

@chepossofare

11 ай бұрын

@@greatscottlab That would be great to recover broken vacuum cleaners.

That's real engineering 😁 : designing, testing, failing and doing it again ! And always learning something. Thanks for this video.

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching :-)

@mountiedm

11 ай бұрын

Amen!

@ericlotze7724

11 ай бұрын

If it fails again you could maybe use a higher strength plastic (“creep” of the plastic due to centrifugal force and also the heat are a concern, although ABS and Air Cooling Holes seems to be working!), and/or could *maybe* consider a thrust bearing. Also, I don’t know if it is a problem yet for this (the plastic’s low weight may be helping, along with the already good tolerances of FDM 3D Printing), but if I remember correctly *Turbine Balancing* becomes a major issue. The Old School Method for this is using a Rotary Tool on the “high side” a bit, checking to see if that fixed it via a special tool/jig, then rinse and repeat until it is sufficiently balanced. There is a modern method where you basically laser ablate away the unbalanced bits *while it is spinning on the test rig*. I guess those are some solutions that came to my mind in order of increasing complexity. (Probably plenty of good ideas on your own / other comments i just thought I’d throw them out there)

@ejbuendia

11 ай бұрын

also, real engineering cares about our planet 🌍

@vasyapupken

11 ай бұрын

no. that's youtube engineering. it's more like doing something that mimics engineering process for uneducated audience.

Fun bit of experimenting. But I'd point out that most centrifugal blowers/pumps have a flow vs 'head' trade off. If you design a rotor for maximum flow rates, it probably will not develop much differential pressure. And vice versa. The differential pressure can be important when you think about how you need to draw the air through a dusty filter bag.

@Dcl2037

11 ай бұрын

This is spot on, the reason it didn't perform well. Plot flow rate vs pressure for the fan and it is a curve that slopes down. Plot the same for the filter system and it is a curve that slopes up. The point that the lines cross is the flow rate you get when you connect them together - the real world solves your simultaneous equations for you 😛 Regardless of the misunderstood engineering, it is pretty impressive to get useful vaccum performance from 3d prints!

@davidtarushka9749

10 ай бұрын

God, I didn't expect to see a Bernoulli's equation reference... it's everywhere, man.

@hailstorm7868

3 ай бұрын

@@Dcl2037 That's why they use cyclone filters instead of bags in high end vacuums. Lower pressure drop allosw to use more flow optimised "pumps".

"Get a new one! I need a better vacuum cleaner!" -"No. We have a better vacuum cleaner at home"

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Haha funniest comment so far ;-)

@districtnull

11 ай бұрын

​@@greatscottlab How do you recycle failed 3D printed parts? Do you just put them into PET bin?

@lucasvanhamburg4937

11 ай бұрын

it just needs to be built first

@xXturbo86Xx

Ай бұрын

Not better. Kinda worse.

Am building DIY Vacuum cleaners for like 3 years now as part of my hobby and here are some tips that could help: 1. As someone in comments already pointed out, vacuums need static presure cuz when u "block" that properel with a *filter* it behave like if u block the intake. It will just spin without actually sucing anything. Maybe thats also why u had so little powerdraw. Cuz if u block the intake its like in a vacuum, there is no air resistance so the motor can achive desired RPM without drawing so much current. 2. Most comercal vacuum cleaners use some form of flexible material as a housing for motor with propeler. Its for reducing some unwanted noise from vybration of the propeler. When I was printing that housing I used TPU. I was able to make it completly silent with it so I could only hear the airflow. 3. 3D printers cant make a perfect propeler. Its not posible. Due to uneven infill or some extrusions... You cant make a perfect circle. It will vybrate and that can couse some problems for the bearing inside the motor. I personally killed multiple motors for this so I just switched back to DC motors. Cuz they are cheap and relatively easy to control. The best "circles" I had was when I had these setings in my slicer: seams setuped at random, 3-4 perimeters, avoind crosing perimeters - true, hexagonal reduced infill, z-hop (I used PETG) and I usualy print on higher temperatures. This reduce visual quality but highly increasing the strengh and lifespan of the propeler. (once my propeler exploded and it was not nice, so strengh is more important than look) 4. In your design you needed to make the housing bigger becouse your propeler was scratching the housing. Keep an eye on this cuz the bigger is housing the less airflow u can achive. With these I was able to make a vacuum cleaner that was stronger than the original one and also more silent. Fun fact, I build 2 last year and one is workin to this day. The other one died cuz it accidentaly inhaled a cake with a screw when I didnt had filter on it... So it exploded... EDIT 1: Just to make things clear, am not eating a "screw cake" I was eating a cake next to some screws cuz I was repairing a PC EDIT 2: I forgot to say that I printed TPU housing with 0.8mm nozzle. Idk why but 0.4mm print was absorbing less noise. 0.8mm is silent for unknown reason EDIT 3: Propeler was printed in PETG and the feature "avoid crosing perimeters" are just need cuz PETG is stringing as hell so with that setting there are almost no strings EDIT 4: That silent cleaner was handy for myself cuz I was doing a lot of vacuuming near a 1yo baby that is scared from a loud noise.

@Lucas_sGarage

11 ай бұрын

While working on my centrifugal supercharger project i learned a few things 1) if you are running abl, drop the z fade height to 1mm and add 5-7 raft layers, this will prevent elephant's foot and will make your part more even (remember abl doesn't make your bed level, it just compensates for it) 2) 5-7 perimeters are required (since mine needs to spin at 50k minimum 3) use abs, (with the air resistance and pressure it will heat up) Inrunner bldc motors are the way to go since they have the highest power to kV ratio You need speed, but also power. 4 to prevent distortion, fully allow your print bed to cool down before taking the prints off 5) the clearances have to be as small as possible (since you increment efficiency the closer the blades are to the wall 6) the impeller design does matter, but you have bigger things to worry about than that. 7) you need to balance the impeller...

@sinceRENEss

11 ай бұрын

'inhaled a cake with a screw' What kind of cakes do you consume???? :D

@Emet-wd5mz

11 ай бұрын

@@sinceRENEss Yeh that sounded weird :D Just to make things clear, I was eating a cake while repairing my PC so I had pile of screws next to my cake :D So that cleaner inhaled both at the same time.

@n.shiina8798

11 ай бұрын

@@Emet-wd5mz well, that's screwed

@NightMind0

11 ай бұрын

Would delta style printer handle circles better?

The thing about your impeller is that you ended up reducing the diameter. If you want to design one with real math, i can give you a few steps that are usually involved. 1. Find the max speed you can turn. 2. Find the cross section of the inlet. 3. Find the cylindrical surface area of your outlet. 4. With speed at the inlet you get volume flow. 5. With pressure at the inlet you get mass flow. 6. With mass flow, area of inlet and outlet and tangential speed of impeller at the inlet and outlet you get the angle of attack of your impeller at both ends. 7. The number of fins will impact static pressure if i remember right. The maths for all of this isnt really hard, you just need to understand relative speed, conservation of mass and rotational/tangential speed relation.

@themastereal8345

3 ай бұрын

nobody wanted to argue this genius

@michbushi

3 ай бұрын

Now I need that comment in the form of a blog post I can bookmark 👍

Great Scott thank you for another great video! What we learn from failures and suboptimal outcomes are often more important than what we learn from our successes. I really enjoyed watching what you learned from each iteration. I also loved the premise of the project which was essentially "I don't have to do this, I just want to."

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching and the feedback :-)

Increase the surface area of the impeller. The airflow of an impeller is defined by the speed (as you pointed out) and its surface area. By increasing the number of fins or by increasing its size overall, you can increase the airflow quite considerably. In my last blower project, I needed a 150% increase in airflow. This was just about manageable without changing the motor by increasing the impeller size by 30%. At that point, the torque of the motor reached its limit. Bear in mind though that higher torque generates more heat. You can temper PLA and ABS (and almost all plastics) in a home oven to greatly increase its tolerance to heat, although it will result in shrinkage. The Formfutura Volcano PLA filament is a good option here, too, as it allows you to temper the parts with minimal shrinkage.

@MaxC_1

11 ай бұрын

tempering in general is not an option, there is a good amount of shrinkage and even if going for the method using sand or salt as fillter to prevent warping it'll still not work out well enough for the tolerances here as you need two perfectly flat surfaces. CNC Kitchen has some great videos already and it's just plain better to go for higher temp filaments and ABS honestly works just fine

@mikefochtman7164

11 ай бұрын

It's a trade off of a lot of things. The more air flow, the more power demanded by the motor as well. And you need to develop at least some amount of differential pressure to draw the desired air flow through the nozzle, wand attachment, filter bag (probably the biggest impediment) and so on. And dP is more a function of enclosed diameter with minimal bypass leakage. So many things to experiment... so little time. :)

@christophlawrence

11 ай бұрын

​@@MaxC_1 Good point, Max, that the shrinkage of tempering might be an issue; at the same time, the majority of the heat will be focused on the housing surrounding the motor, not the impeller or impeller cover, so the tolerances are not that tight. ABS starts to deform at a little over 100C, which, as you said, may be sufficiently heat tolerant for the context. That said, depending on the efficiency, draw current, and torque capabilities of the motor, it can get hotter. If it does, tempering/annealing the motor housing may help, especially if using a specialty filament.

@conorstewart2214

11 ай бұрын

@@christophlawrence if ABS isn’t heat tolerant enough you can always go for a high temp nylon or carbon fibre reinforced nylon or something like polycarbonate.

@ericlotze7724

11 ай бұрын

Are you documenting these projects anywhere?, i’d love to check and see what all you’ve done, they sound neat!

As others have mentioned, you'll need to work on static pressure. A lot of impellers will put the outside wall of the enclosure onto the impeller itself, that way they don't have to try to get the blades close to the walls for better pressure. I'm curious what you could get away with just replacing the stock motor with a subtable BLDC motor with better speed than the brushed motor.

@n.shiina8798

11 ай бұрын

this is what i was thinking too when i saw the original impeller design but is it possible to keep it balanced with 3D printer?

imagine being an electronic maker and throwing something away just because it doesn't work the idea itself is absurd

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Well, sometimes it is just easier because there is not enough time to make everything on my own from scratch ;-)

@timschulz9563

11 ай бұрын

I'm not an electronics engineer but everything that is broken gets taken apart. To see if I can fix it, find the error or at least learn how that thing works.

@LAndrewsChannel

11 ай бұрын

​@@timschulz9563 and/or salvage some components if they look useful and the thing is unfixable

@big_o1952

11 ай бұрын

i was being sarcastic please dont kill me

@user-zh2wl2sl2u

11 ай бұрын

​@@timschulz9563 i salvage components from it when i cant repair it and i learn from the system design

Haha! Love the Makita mod. I modded the small vacuum I have in my office at work to take a DeWalt battery last year. Everyone laughs but it works great, the battery charges super quick, and I can swap the batteries quickly. All it took was a cordless impact one of our techs dropped from a tall scissor lift. Now I need to supersize the motor and impeller to take it up another notch.

I love the idea of fighting e-waste, but you replaced the battery and its board, the impeller, the motor and the speed controller. The only thing that's left of the vacuum is the shell. And you made 4 plastic prints along the way.

@zynifi

11 ай бұрын

Cry about it

@christianparedes15

11 ай бұрын

​@@zynifi thats not very nice...

@zynifi

11 ай бұрын

@@christianparedes15 don’t care do I?

@christianparedes15

11 ай бұрын

@@zynifi thats not very good, are you doing okay?

@bluedistortions

3 ай бұрын

That's true, but now it's open source, and can be fixed or tweaked as desired. If your goal in doing a repair is just to save money on the first repair, it's better just to be like everybody else and toss everything in the trash and buy more junk. Repairing never pays off on your first try. But as you build up a workshop, and skills and knowledge, you learn not only how to fix things, but how to improve them. We need more people like that. For example, now if his impellor breaks, he can print a new one. If a battery cell goes bad, he can replace that single cell. And so on and so forth.

Excelent video! I would suggest using the old impeller of the vacuum cleaner but mounted on a higher kv bldc. If you could double the rpm, it would be amazing. That should increase both airflow and static pressure. The factory impeller should be stronger and better ballanced than the 3d printed one.

Great video! Very interesting. For a self professed "not a mechanical engineer" the impeller turned out pretty damned nice. Well done.

Thanks for all your videos Scott! This is like the best channel on youtube. I am working on something similar and had an impeller get friction welded to the housing haha!

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching :-)

Really enjoy your videos. You are always so creative and patient and I normally learn something left-field, which is what it's all about. Well done and keep going!

Repairing and/or reusing things with 3D printed parts is probably my favorite thing about 3D printing. I've got so many broken things in my house that I've kept going just by printing a few cents' worth of plastic, y'know, like "you thought I was done with you just because your grip broke? bitch I'm gonna make a whole new housing as long as your motor's still spinning" xD

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Haha sounds awesome :-)

@dimasuracalvinjake683

11 ай бұрын

in your dreams

@AttilaTheHun333333

11 ай бұрын

@@dimasuracalvinjake683 What?

@user2C47

11 ай бұрын

​@@AttilaTheHun333333 Probably trying to say that the print volume of most printers is too small to make a complete housing, as well as the excessive time required for design and printing, in comparison to making only the grip.

Trial and error is where great things start. This is already a job well done because you managed to figure everything out and make something out of the things you have lying around.

You are the type of guy that I would trust. If YOU recommended a product that I was in the market for, I wouldn't hesitate to buy it! You are a *VERY TRUSTWORTHY* engineer!

The old design of the propeller is there for a reason. It’s not all about flow, but also about the relationship with the pressure. Use the old design, with a new stronger motor (higher rpm, too) and you’ll be rock solid.

I would love a deep dive into why that 500W brushless controller wouldn't spin up that standard brushless motor. I have a project I'm working on that where I had the exact same problem with that board, but could never figure out why the 3 different versions of that controller I had would not work with any of my motors.

Real no bs engineering and DIY builds. Thank you ...

I have designed multiple fans/impellers/pumps etc. It is borderline maddening to get something balanced and turning at high speed on a 3d printer to work well.

This inspired me to make an HEPA fume sucker with an old fan from an inflatable matress. Good work!

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Thanks :-)

@gigaherz_

11 ай бұрын

I have been wanting to try doing something like that for a while, but I don't have any old fans to use. :P

Good job. Perhaps introduce cyclonic flow to improve flow and dust extraction?

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Ok. Cyclonic flow. Will look into that. Maybe for a follow up ;-)

@sail4life

11 ай бұрын

@@greatscottlab No filter needed, so 100% printable!

I love this video. It's engineering in a nutshell - constant revision and improvement. Trial and error and many failures that lead to a successful outcome. Great work

I'm currently working on a vacuum turbine design currently The challenging bit at the moment is getting sufficient static pressure to be able to produce good suction. The amount of air that the turbine can flow when it's being run open air is insane though! Hopefully when I shift over to a BLDC motor with controller I should be able to get a substantial RPM increase which will gain a good static pressure. I'm aiming to use a 3300kV 540 motor with 60A ESC. The current motor is a brushed 540 that spins around 12,000 RPM.

Next step: Design a new gf

Something that I find that most people probably dont think of is using 3D printing to print templates. For instance, when you put the potentiometer on the outside and set on labels, you could also 3D print a ring with marks and letters like Low and High and then trace the holes with a paint marker. This is also nice especially when you want to mount something to a wall. Say you have either a tv mount or a power strip that has screws it needs to hook onto but you have no idea what the spacing should be because it is at an odd angle or you are worried about it being crooked. You can measure the holes with calipers and print out a single or double layer template and get the locations exactly.

@mjc0961

11 ай бұрын

Why waste time and materials 3D printing a template when a simple sheet of paper and a pencil will do? Put paper against mount, rub pencil across to get the indentations, there's your template. Or if you want to be fancy, measure it, draw it in a free CAD program and print it on a sheet of paper. The reason most people don't think of what you said is because it's an inefficient and slow solution to a very simple problem.

A great watch, thank you! I can't wait to see the second generation of your vacuum cleaner.

I love how you share your failures! I hope I can see more of this project in the future, very interesting! 🤓

Good to see you being eco-conscious. E-waste is a big problem and I have seen it first hand how it litters creeks. Plus it also gives you a warm good feeling that you fixed something you could have simply thrown away.

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Yep. Fixing stuff on your own is great :-) Even it is not 100% perfect like in my case here....

I think this would be a perfect application for carbon fiber reinforced plastics! They don´t deform as much at these high speeds as simple PLA or ABS would due to the forces involved

My old vacuum cleaner melted so I had to buy a new one. Still kept the old one though for this exact reason. Glad I stumbled upon this video!

I love your channel GreatScott, perfect demonstration of different engineering methods!!

Dude you are one lucky man! I wish I had a wife that only talks in subtitles. I would imagine she would be mad if you blinked for a long time if you guys faught though.

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Haha well,...

@mikehensley78

11 ай бұрын

Could you imagine getting woke up and yelled at in sub titles? LOL.

My pet peeve is the noise of these things. I wonder how quiet you can get it at a given performance level. Perhaps there's someone proficient with this sort of fluid dynamic design things who can lend a hand?

@20EsOfficial

11 ай бұрын

would be cool asf to see him out dyson dyson with a DIYson

I believe that the volume of air being pulled in cannot escape fast enough with so few exhaust holes IE add more/bigger exhaust holes = +10hp! Great project. Awesome video!

Honestly I learned so much new stuff by watching you today I learned what RPM stands for and what KV and KVA is and how to find RPM and a lot more thank you so much , I would literally pay to subscribe you love from Maldives , have a great day

you could also use one of those server fans , they have a lot of power, come with flow correction (the rotating wind is converted into straight flowing wind using two opposite rotating fans) and they are also cheap+ do not heat as much as normal bldc motors.. i have some of them from sanyo and they all working fine

@underdweller

11 ай бұрын

bonus points for making the vacuum sound like a jet engine at full throttle

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

I will have a look

@lifeai1889

11 ай бұрын

​​@@underdweller yes it makes it sounds very powerful but actually not so much as the fan is not designed to pull a vacuum it's designed to push allot of air

@LalanDesai

11 ай бұрын

@@lifeai1889 exactly

Didn't think it was physically possible.. but I'm really blown away by how much this video.. *SUCKS* 😆 Can't wait for part 2 👍

Good choice on the switch to ABS. It's pretty much the go-to filament for anything you need to last long enough. Not only the temperature resistance is important (since, sometimes it's not even a problem), but more importantly, the resistance to creep. PLA would be a far better filament for final use prototypes if it wasn't so weak to creep. Anything under any kind of load will warp with time if made with PLA, far less on PETG and pretty much won't warp with time on ABS (yes, it also does creep, but to a WAY lesser degree), even at low temperatures, and much more so on higher temperatures. Specially since you've got a Bambu Lab X1C after all, which can do ABS with far less hassle than open frames (tho, those parts would even print on open frame machines with a draft shield enabled on the slicer).

The impeller you choose has a higher throughput but a lower static pressure than the original. You can improve the original, but you either need a full radial again, or to turn the entire stack 180 degree and have a related half radial design sucking radially and bowing straight. Since a redesign of the housing is necessary anyway, to fit a wider motor, both is viable🤗

What do you do with all the discarded plastic from the 3D printer?

@tamertamertamer4874

11 ай бұрын

Where I live you can just put it in the plastic recycling bin

@Alex-03

11 ай бұрын

@@tamertamertamer4874 In the US only 9% of plastic gets recycled. Even when you chuck stuff in the recycling it often ends up in a landfill.

@tin2001

11 ай бұрын

@@Alex-03 Where I live (in Australia), I hope it mostly gets recycled.... Because there's a plastic recycling plant about 3km from my house. 🤣

Fantastic work! I don't know if it would be possible, but it could be even more efficient with a proper turbocharger :D Jokes aside, if the "exhaust" air would be used to spin the turbine even faster like it is on a real turbocharger on an engine, it should be even faster, at least in my mind it could work :D

@raff96

11 ай бұрын

in a car the turbo get spun by the exhaust (air+fuel+explosion), that causes more air to come in and it makes a cycle. In this case, there is no fuel added so the air that gets sucked in doesn't have any "extra" to help spin the turbine, it would be just a waste of energy to try and harvest it.

Glad to see my impeller tests were useful! Great video

Different numbers of blades, height, "trim", so on can make a massive Difference to the flow on the impaller. Car performance turbochargers are gonna be your best bet for designing your own! The new Garrett G series turbos are moving a lot of air with their impaller and compressor housing designs, so looking that them may be a nice thing to start with

Girlfriend reveal? Let's goo... 😂😂

@greatscottlab

11 ай бұрын

Haha

Good luck making your girlfriend happy.

@Thestoat4264

Ай бұрын

What are you talking about 🤣🤣🤣

thanks for all helping videos and contents✌❤

Best insides in engeneering thinking. Great work and effort 👍

Oh YES !!!! We need a part II !!! Or even a mini-series on that specific topic ! a bit like another well-known channel with PC fans ^^

Can't wait for part 2!

Impeller design is crucial. Switching from a Closed type impeller to the Semi Open type reduced the efficiency of the impeller. Tolerances are a bit of a problem with plastics, but improving the impeller design is where i would start.

Great project Thanks for sharing your journey 🙂

nice project scott, i did something simmalr too but i used turbo desing and high rpm motor around 60W and 5.9mps air speed

hits close to home 😂 my mom has 3 dyson hand vaccums at home because she buys a new one every time the filter clogs up. I just replaced the battery, the filter, added a new better rear hepa filter, bought tons of accessories all for 1/4th the price of a new one, but with 3x the functionality...

Nice. Less in the way of air holes for the rotor enclosure might improve the result because lower air pressure will allow the impeller to spin faster and experience less drag.

Use an inrunner motor for it. It’s like the motors you find in brushless rc cars, they make lots of rpm because the rotors are very light compared to the outrunners that need more torque for what they do. Very cool project

I 18 volt everything. When my dyson stick vac went through its 2nd 14.4 volt pack I also converted to makita 18 volt. It lasted about 2 years until the wheel exploded. I ended up taking the cyclone off of it and taping it to the front of a black and decker 14.4 volt that I had converted to 18 volt. Found out the dyson was an extremely high static vac, gutted the inside of the cyclone and removed all restrictions, now it works as good or better than the original design( for my garage, the original pulled through a very restrictive hepa filter) . The cyclone still works fine with all the stuff inside removed.I replaced the motor on a first gen makita stick vac with the dyson motor I had laying around. That vac went from anemic to lifting 2x4's. All the vac wheels I have messed with had 2 walls, not just a back wall and exposed blades

I really like this video, and your style of implementing situations is truly awesome.

A lot of work . Realy well played

Haha! I also made a hand vacuum run with a power tools battery. Have had it for two years now. Mabey i should "overclock" my vacuum aswell! 😅

I had a similar problem with an hot-air gun, the motor was slow more and more, the problem was the carbon contact, It seems that the contact reduces because the material of the carbons goes off, so I opened the motor and push a bit the carbons. And thats it!

This is a valuable lesson to all those who thing manufacturers don't care. They actually do spend considerable time perfecting their products, while trying to limit the cost as much as possible.

Making any 3d printed object spin at 16krpm is fantastic. Balancing is critical, you can have adjustable balancing weights to make them spin smoothly.

Your video is extremely satisfie! Now I know BLDC not only used for RC toy but also for household device! Keep up your video like this

Brilliant work, dude! Really well done! 😃 I've never thought of a brushless vacuum cleaner! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Sounds like my wife and I, sometimes it works out well and she likes my solution, other times not so much and end up spending more to make her happy. But, i enjoy the challenge of the projects so its worth it to me.

This was one of your best videos i have seen. More like this. 😃

Hi, Vacuum enthusiast/collector here. This is awesome!

Magnets are glued. Glue loosens with heat build up. This centrifugal impeller doesn't use the air-flow to cool the motor. You could use aerodynamics that allow using the same air to cool the motor. BLDC works best this way.

I like when you encourage people to be more resourceful :)

Great Scott!! Good job :)

Cool project either way 👍🏻 you made it work and that’s further than most people will get.

Very fascinating project, I designed lot of turbo compressor for my little vacuum cleaner project. For better results, you should increase static pressure, you can do that by better aligment of blades, maybe spliter blades with better blade curve (for better static pressure, main blades have to look like more likely "S" shaped) and with low tolerance enclousure, I think resin printing is best for it. The root profile is too important because that effects the area of blades, you maybe try to optimize it. I hope you come with new and better projects, nice work!

Bro that that FBO stage 3 vacuum🔥🔥

Good job man!

excellent work as usual..

I've had some quad motors from ~2014 move. I super glued it back and it worked until I broke it in a crash

Hello, greetings from a mechanical engineer as that project made me think too on impeller design.🇮🇳

Great video thankyou for the upload!!!!

Congratulations on your 420th vid greatscott! Must be fun.

Great Scott!!

Might want to replace that propeller with a quieter version, I don't remember the details but the key point was the fins circling back on them selves as a loop rather than suddenly ending with an edge like your existing one does. It's a recent discovery that they're both more effective and quieter. You'll have to do the research yourself though if you want more in depth detail since I only saw it on the "undecided" vids (I think).

fantastic i think this is a very good result considering

cool video and good process of new designs.. kind of hard to argue about Creating less waste at the landfill with the original fan and motor along with several 3d printed fails

You should add stator vanes to the impeller housing. Also use a high speed drone motor with a higher kv. This should increase the suction by alot.

Amazing results for a first go at impeller deign. I would recomend, however, a deign more similar to the original one. First off, the inlet and and outlet area of the impeller (not the case, but the impeller, although this holds true for the case too) should be about the same, if we ignore cinoressibility (we are below mach 0.7 so thats a safe assumption). I would do this by, counterintuitively, decreasung the inlet area. The key with centrifugal pumps is the development of the centrifugal force by fkinging the fluid from near the center of rotation all the way out to near the edge of the impeller. The air entering near the edge of your current impeller design is not going to actually get accelerated that much by the time it reaches the outlet. The axial component of the airflow does not add significant suctuon power for this type of impeller, which is why the oroginal one is so flat rather than long like yours. Good luck with v2!

@maxk4324

11 ай бұрын

*compressibility

Thank you for doing that. That is my mothers birthday and the funny thing is the first Earth Day was when she was born, so I am happy for that. I have a mother earth essentially.

I like the way you tried something completely new and you actually delivered 😅 Keep up the great work plz Plus some tips : Try better and more motors there might be some other motors that can be more of a help

Needs more power draw, so either higher RPM (higher voltage or higher kV motor) or more load (big impeller with more suction)

i've never liked the finish on 3d-prints but that black abs looks cool!

Never give up...great video

some motors are built more for torque than they are RPM, if needing higher RPM you can offset the motor and build a gear (or pully) system to step up the ratio to a better RPM.

What filament do you use for 3D printed Electronic enclosures? I really like your designs and ideas for electronic projects and their enclosures... I just bought a 3D printer and I wonder What's the best filament for an enclosure that would not melt when something on the circuit gets warm... PLA starts to deform when it gets 65°c on a heatsink near it

Looking forward to part 2, however great effort. :) a bit shocked the brushless DC motor couldn't out perform..

Very cool project!

I would try, if you have the space for it, widening the impeller at the output end, giving a more flared design. since those impellers work via centrifugal force, the wider that base is, the more force you should be able to pull out of it. I'm also an electrical engineer not a mechanical, but those are my two cents