I Failed!
Well this time, I had a fail. It's really important to take a step back and examine your failures that is how I belive you can make the most growth. Like I mention in the video it's the small accidents that can keep you from the big ones. Like small reminders that your not perfect and things can always go south, are you prepared? If you think you can never fail then you are set up for a rude awakening one day.
Take Aways: Buddy checks, Go over your game plan, think about possible hazards and how your team is going to avoid them. Read the guide book and get some beta, it's possible there are some hazards you can't foresee, a guide book can reveal them plus give solutions. As a belayer be ready for rock fall, where is your exit strategy?, have a helmet and shoes.
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Wear that helmet! 🪖Oh btw that was my sister 🤣 so we have a bit of a sibling conversation.
@Nardypants
Жыл бұрын
Yeah, normally I would suggest not starting by telling the other what they did wrong when they might be hurt, lol. Dealing with siblings makes our heads work wrong.
This was a fairly minor and common problem, but instead of saying "eh, it happens" and moving on, you took it as an opportunity to study what you could have done better. Great way to handle these situations!
I got the impression that before you both started, you were both a bit stressed and not on the same level of communication, but relationships can be like that. You are right to point out that enjoyment is important and that the goal shouldn't get in the way of safety. The other chap commented about saying sorry, you are the one I dropped the rock after all. I love your videos and your open and honest approach to climbing and life. I love the little lizard at 7.20!
takes courage to put out your mishaps for everyone to roast you but it's the kind of video that's most helpful to watch
Good on you to share your fails. Number 1 fail: Criticizing your belayer when you drop a rock on her. Lol. "The man who loves discipline loves knowledge, and he who hates reproof is stupid."
Honestly... I feel like an "I'm sorry" was due even if it's a bit out of your control. Basically blamed the climber below entirely for the situation for not moving fast enough.
@BetaClimbers
Жыл бұрын
Yeah I guess that was the older brother in me 🤣 that was my sister so I think I had a “shouldn’t you know better attitude.” at first. Good point though, I should have owned up to that a little more, if I went slower I think I would have spotted that, so it’s my fault really. We took a good look at the foot and talk when she got up to me, to close for my comfort.
@chaosengine4597
Жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers you can still say you're sorry. not too late for that as she survived.
@ragreenburg
Жыл бұрын
I feel the same thing. It is hard though to think about what should be said in those scenarios because I would imagine his adrenaline would be pumping after seeing the rock get close. When that happens you definitely might not be thinking super clearly. That being said, ideally you don't want to come on that strong but sometimes it just happens.
I can smell da failure! 😂 Good video thanks for putting yourself out there and pointing out the mistakes 👍
1. Belay out of the way of rock fall. 2. Wear a helmet 3. Climb carefully as not to stand or pull on loose rocks. 4.Check your handholds and footholds before you load them. 5.if you do pull a rock loose, Yell right away and loudly ROCK. 6. When you hear rock get as close to the moutain as possible as usually the rock hits the moutain on the way down and bounces away from it. 7.And try to belay under the roof if possible. 8. When you hear rock don't look up. If everybody does their parts the risk of getting hit by a rock decreese a lot. Also if you do pull a rock loose say sorry. Both partyes were at fault here
@owibanbenoki
Жыл бұрын
Fun fact, in french the word "rock" (pierre) is also a really common first name. So, to avoid the possibility of having your wellnamed belayer just look up wondering why you shout his name this loud, in some places the common habit in theses circumstances is to yell "SUCRE" (sugar).
Josh. It happens. Lesson learned. Pls show recordings of the other pitches. Ty!
Thanks for your videos, I always find then entertaining and educational. The rock falling, you shouted and did as you were supposed to do. Definitely right to mention the enjoyment factor. I climb at a very low level for fun, for me it's about being out there doing it rather what grade I can climb. I did think you should have put that first bit of gear in earlier though. Thanks again for posting your videos.
Yeah. I noticed the harness check after you started climbing. Big ,NoNo!
I was rope soloing a few weeks ago when a crimp broke off. I turned around and instinctively yelled, "ROCK"!... A person was standing directly below me, looking at the ground and didn't react at all...even when I screamed, "rock rock", and the rock smashed right in front of him, he just stood there and looked up at me. He said, " I thOugHT YoU wERe saYInG ROPE" and continued to duadle away. Classic McGruber🤓
@BetaClimbers
Жыл бұрын
I’ll be in a subway and if some yell rock I dive under the chairs 🤣
@memeyou241
Жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers 🤣
Love the timing of the harness check, hahaha
Definitely the vibe I got from this video was slightly rushed and tense. Maybe just over keen to get on with things. Lack of a solid buddy check at the start maybe, very speedy climbing. Thing I definitely learnt as a new trad climber was not to rush things. I'm sure you're much more experienced than me but it pays to revisit the basics once in a while. Edit: Just listened to the context and sounds like I was right haha
Thank you for including you’re own fails lol, it’s fun and all to watch and pick apart other climbers, it makes it more real when it’s you failing lol! Keep on climbing brotha!
No buddy check?
Love the after action review and the fact you drank your own medicine, it's a test of character to drink it in public. The only thing I can offer - be kind to each other - I think it will keep you focused on the safety issues on top of it all.
Respect for uploading a pretty uncomfortable video - a comms fail and (perhaps?) climbing fail. Have to say though after the recovering quickdraws video this just looks like another one of you treating women belaying you like garbage. You treated your wife about as well as your sister, and both poor. In my eyes the rock fall is no fail, it happens. But telling your sister to jump away or she dodged a rock wrong is crazy. She's obviously doing her best to not get hurt either, and they're hard to predict. The fail is the massive escalating tension in the situation rather than just making sure she's okay and continuing climbing. Honestly check your attitude.
@sabrinaferreira5667
Жыл бұрын
When someone acts like that it's because that's how he is, I use to climb with someone that was no fun always like that. Humble yourself. Honestly from now on ill see his videos differently. Tired of this type of climbers tho 😒
@bobparker1989
Жыл бұрын
@@sabrinaferreira5667 Yeah, unfortunately I agree.
I when I belay and I can’t see my climber anymore I go to the wall as close as possible to reduce rope drag and to protect me against rockfall. Always do the alpine start get up very early and when you arrive at the route have a breakfast right before you unpack your rope harness etc.
The crappy attitude and lack of buddy check has already been discussed in the comments, but I'd like to bring up the poor protection placement, too. It's hard to judge how steep this climb is on video, but it still feels like you're very runout most of the time. I'd personally place gear at least twice as often, especially where there are such great cracks available. Also, the Totems at 3:24 and 6:40 are too open for my taste, I'd try a bigger cam. Thanks for the video! This kind of content is great for discussion purposes.
@finnplanb3
Жыл бұрын
surely its up to his judgement and skill level to how much protection HE needed. just because you would place more doesn't mean everyone else would.
@paularinaga1576
Жыл бұрын
Maybe he ran it out because he was rushing?
I was taught to never belay barefoot or without shoes, in case I go flying a bit and hit the wall?
Pretty cool your sister climbs as well. You seem very comfortable placing your gear. Your placements are fast. Were you familiar with the route or just that confident in your skill set?
@BetaClimbers
Жыл бұрын
Yeah never been there before guess that’s just experience. Actually felt slow to me I should have had the totems on individual carabiners, I fixed that on the higher pitches. I’ll talk about pitch 2 this weekend. 🤙🏻
The biggest fail in this video is nothing to do with the climbing, rock fall or anything technical. it all has to do with the attitude both before and after you dropping a rock.
@BetaClimbers
Жыл бұрын
🤔 Yeah I’ll have to think about that. It really was a combination of a lot of elements. A late start, grueling approach, then knowing I have to get this done quick. I think I’ll have my sis come on episode 2 of this, and we can get her feed back as well.
@djmim0
Жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers you mean "feet back"? 😀 Sorry, i have terrible sense of humor. Glad you are both safe and really appreciate this video bcs it is warning for all of us. Love your content btw 👍.
Curious to know, how many relationships have been squandered because of two words that are sometimes never mentioned in a relationship, "I'm sorry."
Many Respect to you for saying and showing how you failed. But honestly during the whole video I thought it was all made on purpose to make a "how not to climb" video!
I was in the valley recently too and I thought I saw you drive by. I told my wife that was beta climbing guy.
Do can you make a vid on fixing anchors bolts? How to…what’s good, what’s bad…
From an industry standpoint, I think the harness check/rock fall incident is equivalent to lagging and leading indicators? You were rushing, causing mistakes to be made, and the mistakes started compounding until the results were “loud enough” to be recognized. I think you did a great job breaking down the incident. Hindsight 2020, but after the rock fall I think pausing to re-assess the entirety of your situation could have been beneficial. At the same time you were crunched for time, so maybe pausing wasn’t feasible, I dunno! Thanks for sharing! It’s very insightful to see these experiences from an experienced climbers perspective.
Haste makes waste? No, haste is one of the mothers of a big fuckup. A failure? No, a failure is at least one of you ending in hospital, everything else is a minor inconvinience. Change your mental process from ¨I gotta climb 5 pitches as fast as I can¨ to ¨as efficient as I can¨. From this experience you should learn to spot the telltale signs that you are not focused enough on the climb and that maybe you should avoid climbing with those sensations. You can always come back some other time. Avoid arguing with your partner while climbing, you´ll end climbing with a bitter taste and thinking about other things while your focus should be in the actual climbing and its enjoyment Cheers and many safe climbs
@BetaClimbers
Жыл бұрын
“Efficient as I can” I like that 🤙🏻
I know a climber that had a falling rock bounce off the slab in front of them and hit them in the gut resulting in a ruptured spleen. Luckly the crag wasn't far from the road so they made it to the hospital in good time.
Tell us about the rope trick plz
As a belayer, you take on risk of falling rocks whether it was the climber's fault or not. shit happens
"ya shoulda jumped" "took me till the third scream for you to do anything"..... stand up husband right there lol she could have been dead
@fridayg2563
Жыл бұрын
They're siblings, not partners lol
Someone please explain to me how his helmet keeps popping in and out of frame. Is his action cam bobbing or something??
@invoidker1049
Жыл бұрын
It’s the GoPro’s image stabilisation
Knowing it's siblings explains the tone of the conversation.
The “mansplaning” that ensued. Oh man, the bickering was reminiscent of the many I’ve had with my partner. Always a result of a lack of communication either before the climb, or from the relationship. Thanks for keeping it real with us.
Shoot why don’t I get notifications anymore
Lizard at 7:20 ran out of the way
Man you stoned your partner, for shame! 😆
I don't trad clime, but I wonder if you have enough pro in? Especially in the beginning of the climb?
I don't know man - sounded like you were both a little tired and stressed out at the bottom and were already both on the verge (or the end) of an argument. So although people below are being pretty harsh about the conversation going on, I get it. I see some people say you were a little run out in the beginning, but I thought that was barely a climb, and more of a scramble, so although you could place gear there, I wouldn't have. I noticed you immediately started placing gear at the first sign of needing to make some moves and the route really "beginning." That route was DIRTY - what are you going to do about that? I supposed you could pre-warn your partner you are getting on a real dirty spot and to watch for rock fall. But in truth - where you were standing, some amount of rock fall looked nearly inevitable. Gear check - ha - seemed to me like you both just wanted to get away from each other at that moment lol.
it happened to me my buddy throw at me big chunk of rock way bigger than yours, i jumped aside, i was lucky, my point is it can happen and if you have bad luck even helmet wont save you, be vigilant watch what is going above you, wear that helmet.
Doesn't want to share the inheritance. My big brother blames me for his mistakes too. [now you know]
@BetaClimbers
Жыл бұрын
🤣
The ironic shirt of irony.
Do some free solo
A lot of similarities with GA general aviation: - "get-there-itis": trying to get there at all costs disregarding all basic safety rules To mitigate risks, this is done before take-off: - checklists - pre take-off briefing: if we loose the engine on climb we will swerve to the field on the right and try to land there... Glad your lady is safe :)
The irony of having a fail while wearing a shirt that says "don't fail" 🤣
Number one thing that you did right was you are harsh on yourself. You and your partner are the ones who will suffer the consequences so learning and creating systems make you safer AND doing it by safer systems means less you have to think about. Making it more fun. I do my safety check methodical and the same way every time. I start from the bottom and go up. Two leg loops, I am tied in twice with a figure eight and it is tight. I am doubled back. My carabiner is through the belay loop and is locked. The rope is through the GriGri and is tested. Belay is on and climb when ready. It takes me 20 seconds or less and is engrained so I really don't have to think about it. In flying this is called flow. Accidents are never just one thing, they are a chain of events. Take one link out of the chain and the accident doesn't happen. In fact in naval flying they are not called accident, they are preventable incidents. In this "incident" you got a late start, you were rushing, you weren't communicating your intentions because you were rushed. We have all done it and this is a very small incident but, like you said, better to learn on little incidents than having big incidents. This is a great reason to have a auto lock belay device because the rock fall could be from a fall and a belayer avoiding the rock could easily end with no belay at all. Gordon Graham: High Risk/Low Frequency. kzread.info/dash/bejne/gZttt9WvaJWplLg.html
“just don’t do that again
Thanks for sharing this fail. I love your videos... but I gotta say, the cringy-est part of this video is the man-splaining attitude you've got toward your belayer. You dropped a rock on her, then kinda shamed her for not dodging it properly. Doesn't look like much fun to be on her end of this climb.
@BetaClimbers
Жыл бұрын
Right, I’ll have to get my sis on episode 2 of this and get her prospective. 🤙🏻
so the biggest mistake was to not call it quits before starting late.
id say just yell louder would be a great fix XD
Dadddddyyy noooooo
@BetaClimbers
Жыл бұрын
🤣🤣🤣 trad dad tears
@MichaelEverheartt
Жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers dude! My buddy took a climbing fail yesterday when I belaying. I was able to pull in rope and prevent him from grounding. Ever since your channel I’ve always been using helmets! Anyways I wanna send you the video but I don’t have social media. What’s your email trad dad?
@BetaClimbers
Жыл бұрын
@@MichaelEverheartt glad everyone’s alright. 🤙🏻should be in my about channel as well. betaclimbers@gmail.com
@MichaelEverheartt
Жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers in your description I only found your IG and discord. Emailed!
Yosh lol
This is an embarrassing video, you were unbelievably condescending to your climbing partner. Yelling at them from 20 to 30 feet above in the way you did does not help. Especially when you’re pointing out mistakes that were already made. I appreciate the tone of seriousness to rock fall but you let fatigue and or stress cloud YOUR communication with your partner that you should’ve been looking out for if you though they were improperly prepared or equipped to handle the situation.
okay your climbing to high up lol
first comment
This is ridiculous. I love your videos, but she's totally out of line. When you're rock climbing rocks fall. You scream rock, that's all you can do. Wear a helmet. She has such a nasty attitude.
We had a double fatality here in, Idyllwild. Unfortunately, the incident was 100% preventable. The same scenario happened in Joshua Tree a few months ago and another one is reported in Accidents in North American Climbing. And, of course, the comments on Mountain Project shows the thought process on some climbers and that is what is really scary. Anyway, the report is a classic example on how a chain of events leads to a accident. Taking a High Risk/Low Frequency evolution compounded by the self-imposed No Discretionary Time (being rushed), also compounded by the lack of knowledge, even though there is massive amounts of documentation of loss of strength of nylon exposed to UV light, and the violation of redundancy of a anchor point. This led to a double fatality of experienced climbers. Again, a accident is a chain of events so even if you got away with doing something, when combined with other factors, can lead to a undesirable outcome. RMRU Report rmru.org/2022/09/28/2022-28/