How to Make a Sailboat Cockpit Epoxy Chart Table - Pt1 (Ep42)

This episode I being making the cockpit epoxy chart table. It's epoxy for dummies as I experiment with a special 207 clear hardner and I discuss using various West System Epoxy Resin and hardners. West System 207 Special Hardner is the epoxy hardner you use to make "bar top pour" epoxy tables with an ultra-clear water-like finish. This episode is all about clear epoxy basics for newbies .
Welcome to my boat building channel! This is my trawler restoration of an Albin 27 pocket trawler. Every couple of weeks I post a boat building or boat repair video to document various boat projects, sailboat restorations, or boat repairs.
*MotorCity Boat Werks has no sponsors and receives no compensation from any of the brands featured or recommended. However, there may be compensation from the use of Amazon affiliate links below.*
Equipment featured this episode:
West System Epoxy
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West System Fast 207 Special Hardner
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West System Fast 205 Fast Hardner
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West System Mini 300 Pump Set
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Пікірлер: 18

  • @RickMarshallMaps
    @RickMarshallMapsАй бұрын

    Thanks for the great video

  • @motorcityboatwerks

    @motorcityboatwerks

    Ай бұрын

    Glad you enjoyed it😁

  • @dougstearns6746
    @dougstearns67469 ай бұрын

    Well done.

  • @motorcityboatwerks

    @motorcityboatwerks

    9 ай бұрын

    😁👍

  • @dannyjones3840
    @dannyjones3840 Жыл бұрын

    Another thing I like about using west is that you don't need to use the more expensive mixing cups- for smaller amounts, I just use a dollar store solo cup. That'll hold a good 10 pumps

  • @motorcityboatwerks

    @motorcityboatwerks

    Жыл бұрын

    👍👍 this is a great point. Whenever possible I try to find shallower containers. For non thickened material makes mixing and using a squeegee easier

  • @martyspargur5281
    @martyspargur5281 Жыл бұрын

    I have a phobia where I am afraid I'm going to snag a fingernail on the chip brush tang so I always wrap tape around the metal part of the brush. Starting at the "handle-end" side of the metal I run the (usually 3/4" 401 or 233+) masking tape wrap off onto the bristles about 5/16", then back onto the metal. This helps keep the bristles from shedding, and turns the brush into more of a squeegee. Stretch the tape a bit and it will come back onto the tang naturally. The larger the batch, the faster it will kick. A 5-pump (5+5) batch is as big as I usually go bc big batches can turn into a Roman Candle in your hands and that IS a waste of resin. Not sure if the G Bros mention this because I never read the instructions. Another waste of resin is trying to sand before it's CURED. An extra day of curing can make the sanding ten times easier. If it does not want to cure that could mean you did not allow the mix to find all its reactive sites. Like Joe says, it's Not vinylester. You don't do a quick stir and dump it on. The amount of time he spent mixing is just right. If it's not a hot day, you can let it sit a spell after mixing. About as long as it takes to roll a cigarette. That will help ensure an even cure. I usually do between 15 and 22 mixing strokes per pump. When he says "Scrape the bucket while stirring", he means it. Best ratio will be achieved with non-absorbent mixing sticks, wood sticks can soak up hardener. To avoid bubbles i snake the stick around the bucket without whipping it. I normally start by pouring an oversize batch on the work and then spread it by tilting, then brushing or squeege-ing out. "Too much" resin will level best, and then let the extra run off the sides. After it's down, a quick hover with your heat gun will bring to to the top and pop any bubbles that are in there as well as help it to level. Warm the resin coat (not while it's in the bucket), not too hot. You all know how people Love to talk, and Boatbuilder's husbands are no exception. We call their dogmatic mandates "Old Husbands' Tales". You know, like: "You can't put polyester fillers over Epoxy!" Actually, you can. We have been doing it for decades and saved millions of sanding hours by not fairing with epoxy. What you cannot do, is put vinyl ester or polyester fillers over epoxy that is not FULLY CURED, or that have not had the blush scrubbed off (with soap and water). After epoxy substrates are cured, the putty really doesn't know the difference. There. I said it. Not trying to be contentious. Thank You, Joe, few realize that your choice of boat says it ALL.

  • @motorcityboatwerks

    @motorcityboatwerks

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks Marty. I reviewed your fitness report this year and you too have the command quote: “The Lieutenant has strong opinions and expresses them freely.” Well said 😁👍

  • @martyspargur5281

    @martyspargur5281

    Жыл бұрын

    @@motorcityboatwerks Sorry i get carried away. Can you spot the OHT? It was the time the guy from Wisconsin told me I "screwed the pooch" by using a tongue depressor to mix my batch. Somehow it still kicked.

  • @motorcityboatwerks

    @motorcityboatwerks

    7 ай бұрын

    😉

  • @wolframschweier3307
    @wolframschweier3307 Жыл бұрын

    Skills like a chef or maybe a bartender.

  • @motorcityboatwerks

    @motorcityboatwerks

    Жыл бұрын

    😂

  • @donaldpetrey3064
    @donaldpetrey3064 Жыл бұрын

    Wow my cost for a gallon f resin is 130 and the hardener is about 70

  • @motorcityboatwerks

    @motorcityboatwerks

    Жыл бұрын

    That’s why I share the prices. Helps to keep everyone informed

  • @dannyjones3840
    @dannyjones3840 Жыл бұрын

    I just stab the metal seal with my pocket knife, and pry it out

  • @motorcityboatwerks

    @motorcityboatwerks

    Жыл бұрын

    Marine your knife is not a screwdriver. 🫡

  • @907T

    @907T

    Жыл бұрын

    @@motorcityboatwerks Think he means he stabs a hole in the center of the seal to pry it out. I've used an old awl to do the same thing. It's okay if (a) your tool and the seal are clean, and (b) you don't stab yourself or spray material all over the place.

  • @motorcityboatwerks

    @motorcityboatwerks

    7 ай бұрын

    😉