How to Inspect and Adjust Valve Clearance on a 2011 Ninja 250 Part 1 of 5

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Part one of a five part series showing every step of a valve inspection and adjustment on a 2011 Ninja 250. Use the arrow keys on your keyboard to jump five seconds forward or reverse or the "L" and "J" keys to jump ten seconds forward or reverse. Below are links to the four other parts of the series, a table of contents for this first video, and a list of special tools you will need for this job. Only the shim kit and cam chain tensioner holder plate are not available in local stores. Click on the numbers in the table of contents to take you to specific sections of the video.
If you have trouble positioning the crankshaft at the 1T position, watch the following video: • Trouble Positioning th...
Part 1 Currently on Part One.
Part 2 • How to Inspect and Adj...
Part 3 • How to Inspect and Adj...
Part 4 • How to Inspect and Adj...
Part 5 • How to Inspect and Adj...
Side Fairings Removal 00:36
Radiator Fairing Removal 14:33
Draining Coolant 15:48
Coolant Reserve Tank Removal 32:56
Driver Seat Removal 40:25
Gas Tank Removal 41:53
Battery Disconnection 48:10
Radiator Removal 51:22 (continued in part 2)
List of Tools:
--Rear Stand (not required, but makes things a lot easier because it levels and stabilizes the bike).
--Drain pan and storage container (e.g. milk carton) for old coolant.
--Inch-pound torque wrench, range encompassing 44 in-lbs and 106 in-lbs (the smallest you can find, Harbor Freight is the only place I know that sells a small torque wrench, 1/4" Drive; others will work, but they're harder to use).
--TWO open ended 12mm wrenches (to disconnect the bottom end of the clutch cable).
--2x2x6 inch wood block to hold up the gas tank while disconnecting hoses and wires (not necessary, but recommended). Can also use this block under the kick stand to temporarily level the bike when a rear stand is not available).
--TWO 14mm sockets (one deep wall) and TWO fairly long socket wrenches (to remove the engine mounting bolts and rotate the crankshaft), an 18'' ratcheting breaker bar would probably be optimal (also sold at Harbor Freight).
--Large screwdriver or hex extension to push out the engine mounting bolt.
--Organizers (three or four), sticker labels, plastic bags, and twist ties.
--Two washers to remove the timing plugs (larger washer: diameter = 45mm, Width = 3mm, smaller washer: diameter = 30mm, width = 2mm), but if these cannot be found, a half dollar will do.
--Feeler gauges (range encompassing 0.15mm to 0.29mm).
--Marker (for marking the cam sprockets to assist timing when reinstalling).
--Reusable cable ties to hold up the cam chain.
--Clean rag to stuff into the cam chain tunnel.
--Long flexible magnet and/or soft jaw pliers (less than seven inches long with serrated plastic) in case you are not able to pull the lifters out by hand.
--Micrometer and digital calipers (use each device to check the accuracy of the other).
--7.48mm diameter shim kit (range encompassing 2.5mm to 3.5mm widths), readily available online.
--Engine assembly lube/grease (available at O'Reilly's in a black tube--made by CRC).
--SAE 10W-40 4-stroke motorcycle engine oil-check the user manual for specific certifications (to mix with the assembly lube and for the oil pools next to the lifters).
--Two oilers (one for engine oil and the other for the mixture of oil and assembly lube).
--Gasket sealant (not gasket maker). Be sure to buy a product that is designed to be used with a gasket and not in the absence of a gasket or you will spend three hours picking off little pieces of gasket maker off your cylinder head and gasket.
--Small flathead screwdriver, roughly 4mm thick at the end (for retracting the cam chain tensioner).
--Tensioner holder plate-not sold in stores (dimensions displayed in video, part four). Your local Kawasaki dealer might have one lying around, but don't count on it. Make it yourself or find a metal worker and ask him to make it (saves time).
--Tensioner replacement gasket and cap bolt o-ring (never needed them, but they're inexpensive so might as well buy, just in case).
--Foot-Pound torque wrench (for the engine mounting bolts, 51 ft-lbs).
--Coolant (50% ethylene glycol, 50% distilled water, compatible with aluminum engines, and contains no silicates or phosphates which are bad for the water pump).
--Small funnel, roughly 5 inch diameter, to insert coolant (some larger funnels will not fit next to the front fairing and gas tank).
--Basic tools (socket extensions, socket adaptors, wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.).

Пікірлер: 57

  • @NPCSN
    @NPCSN6 жыл бұрын

    Wow... Just wow... this is probably the best service video I've seen yet on youtube. Thank you for posting this.

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    6 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the positive feedback!

  • @aushennesey9588

    @aushennesey9588

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@ninja250motorcyclemaintena7 more More MORE !

  • @ryanmcdonald6292
    @ryanmcdonald62925 жыл бұрын

    wow. This is an incredibly detailed video. I've got a '09 Ninja 250R and managed to clean my carbies last year with help of the ninja forums, but I was still stressing through the whole process until the bike was zipped up and running sweet. This vid series has given me the confidence to check valve clearances and adjust if necessary. And lets face it, with this kind of detail, anyone could do it! Thanks for the fantastic footage and attention to detail!

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    5 жыл бұрын

    Let me know how it works out. I love to hear feedback from people who have done the job. I don't think many people attempt it, partly because it's intimidating, but also because most riders don't put enough miles on their bikes so that a valve adjustment is necessary.

  • @richarfbi1382

    @richarfbi1382

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ninja250motorcyclemaintena7 At how many kilometers would it be good to make a valve adjustment to a kawasaki ninja 250cc year 2008-2012

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@richarfbi1382 Every 7500 miles.

  • @richarfbi1382

    @richarfbi1382

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ninja250motorcyclemaintena7 Mine has 30,000 kilometers I don't think they've ever done it

  • @teena-on9100
    @teena-on9100 Жыл бұрын

    i am learning from this video and try to maintenance my bike Thank you so much🙂👍👍❤❤❤

  • @MrQueenlatte
    @MrQueenlatte5 жыл бұрын

    Best video for ninja

  • @iwannapoop
    @iwannapoop3 жыл бұрын

    This video is EPIC!! by far the best valve adjustment video I've seen

  • @gearangelus
    @gearangelus7 жыл бұрын

    Great documentation of the process.

  • @beersoflegends
    @beersoflegends2 жыл бұрын

    Very very good in depths very good taking your time and showing us how to take off very very good thank you !

  • @emmettturner9452
    @emmettturner9452 Жыл бұрын

    4:30 More specifically, this type of "nut plate" is called a U-nut.

  • @lapanakitiona8858
    @lapanakitiona88585 жыл бұрын

    I had same bike good video

  • @intellectualkshatriya3046
    @intellectualkshatriya30463 жыл бұрын

    Awesome 👏👍👌

  • @hellishgrin4604
    @hellishgrin46045 жыл бұрын

    Word of advice, just cut the coolant tank loop.. It's saved me a lot of time with carb work. Also notice that I didn't say "cut it off", all you want to do is take a pair of side cutters and snip the top of it.

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    5 жыл бұрын

    Interesting idea. That design certainly costs mechanics a lot of time.

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7
    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena76 жыл бұрын

    I have heard that it is the same engine design (just a bit bigger) but I really have no idea. If you're planning to do a lot of work on your motorcycle, the service manual will be your best investment (unfortunately it's not cheap--around $80-100). You should also get the Clymer Manual if they make a book on the Ninja 300 (I have not checked that they do). Clymer's are about $30. Just looking at the Ninja 300 (they are really cool looking bikes and I've seen them all over the place!) I can see that most of the parts are the same as the fourth generation Ninja 250 so there are definitely a lot of similarities.

  • @jasoncheung1754
    @jasoncheung17545 жыл бұрын

    Great videos! What interval should adjust valve ? My 2016 ninja 300 has 8k miles, do you think I should follow your video and do a valve adjustment? Thanks

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    5 жыл бұрын

    I don't have a ninja 300 service manual, but the interval is probably 7500 miles because it's a two-cylinder like mine. Are you the first owner? For my bike, there's a 7500 mile interval. Don't perform this job without the service manual or the Clymer Manual.

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    5 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the positive feedback!

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    5 жыл бұрын

    In short, yes. Perform the job.

  • @rickydeuce2334
    @rickydeuce23345 жыл бұрын

    I’d appreciate any advice thanks :)

  • @dude2296
    @dude22967 жыл бұрын

    Great Video! Very Detailed! Question, sometimes my ninja idles higher (2500 rpm) at a stop but if I engage the clutch briefly a little bit, it goes down to normal idling range, advice?

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    7 жыл бұрын

    Not sure. Maybe a problem with the O2 sensors?

  • @emmettturner9452
    @emmettturner9452 Жыл бұрын

    26:27 Regarding the ambiguity over the water drain bolt at the engine top end: The 2008 manual specifies a torque value of 52~69 inch-pounds for 6mm general fasteners. Though this is not a "general fastener" because it has a specific torque value listed, I checked and it is 6x10mm. Perhaps they got their recommendation of 52 inch-pounds from their general reference and used it as a placeholder which they forgot to update. 69 inch-pounds is as close to the median as 52 inch-pounds would be. Perhaps it's a safe middle-ground between Kawasaki's specifications and Clymer’s. At 27:05 you say that the Coolant Change text of the 2008 version of Kawasaki’s manual explicitly states 52 inch-pounds for the engine drain bolt and 87 inch-pounds for the water pump drain bolt… but I have the first edition and it does not. The Coolant Change section is on pages 2-44 and 2-45. The same torque value is listed on both pages, though 2-45 fails to state what bolt it is referring to (2-44 says “bolts”, plural). The only place I get 52 inch pounds from Basic Torque for General Fasteners (2-10) and Engine Top End (2-7).

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    Жыл бұрын

    You must have a different printing. My 2008 manual certainly does state 52 in-lbs for the engine drain bolt. I believe they constantly update the pdf version.

  • @emmettturner9452

    @emmettturner9452

    Жыл бұрын

    ​@@ninja250motorcyclemaintena7 Mine also clearly states 52 inch-pounds for the engine drain bolt, but not in the text for the coolant change procedure where you say yours has it. Mine only has it on page 2-7, in the Top End section where they attempt to list all of the torque values for general maintenance. Perhaps we shouldn't rely on the 2008 manual for less ambiguity after all. :( I'm going by an original, well-used, first printing shop manual I just got in the mail a few days ago which only references the 2008 model. It seems to be the most common edition by far after scouring eBay where I literally couldn't find a newer one (like the 2011 one you also reference). The "Kawasaki Ninja 250R Service Manual" title page says "(C) 2007 Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. First Edition (1): Nov. 15, 2007 (M)" at the bottom. I even found a few accidental references to the older EX250F model: 1-9 says the front tire width is 100 (should say 110) 2-17 says to use the center stand (should say a rear stand) 2-20 references a Center Fairing Removal procedure in the Frame chapter which doesn't exist (should say Lower Fairing Removal) ...and I'm only just getting started. :) I've been using sticky-notes to mark it up and came back here to add the info and corrections you provided. That's how I realized we must have two different 2008 service manuals. Thanks!

  • @emmettturner9452

    @emmettturner9452

    Жыл бұрын

    @@ninja250motorcyclemaintena7 Well, there it is… you were referencing the 2008 EX250K Service Manual, which is the (fuel injected spec) released in some foreign markets. The first edition of that manual was written later (Feb. 2008) and has a few corrections in it, like the tire specs and references to EX250F center stand/fairings. Meanwhile, the Coolant Change section of the 2008 EX250J (carbureted spec) service manual only mentions one, singular “drain bolt” with a corresponding torque spec of 87 inch pounds. It mentions it twice and gives the torque twice but it completely ignores the engine drain bolt. Meanwhile, the torque specs listed at the beginning of the chapter were updated to include two drain bolts in the Cooling System section: Coolant Drain Bolt (Cylinder) 52 in·lb Coolant Drain Bolt (Water Pump) 87 in·lb Much better than my manual that just says “Drain Bolt 87 in·lb” forcing you to find the other under Engine Top End. It’s clear that Kawasaki noticed their error and corrected it between these two revisions. Considering your revision also says 52 inch pounds, I think Kawasaki was just defaulting to their standard minimum torque for a 6mm bolt. Still wondering where Clymer got their torque for that bolt.

  • @jasongaudreau2075
    @jasongaudreau20752 жыл бұрын

    I’ve got to ask you…does our oem exhaust pipe (from the head to the “slip on” muffler section) have a catalytic converter? I’m stage 2 jetted, with uni pods, and a yoshimura tsc slip on. Contemplating unitronic efi and am thinking a “full system” catless header and mid pipe would free up some ponies. Or, if it is catless from the start (usa carb’d ‘09), I’ll save my pennies. Anybody know?

  • @mikem5475

    @mikem5475

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yes

  • @jasongaudreau2075

    @jasongaudreau2075

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@mikem5475 thank you sir. I’ve also been seeing that it might not be worth the hassle to remove it.

  • @mikem5475

    @mikem5475

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@jasongaudreau2075 it's not that bad to remove, just hand tools

  • @joebridges2754
    @joebridges27544 жыл бұрын

    Is there a difference mechanically between the 2011 and the 2008 ninja 250. I need to adjust the valves and have no clue what I'm doing. I've done the valves on a xr 250 but that is nothing like this engine. I can't find a video on 08. Just this one but it seems like there the same. Thanks for any help

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    4 жыл бұрын

    I believe there is no difference between the 2008 and 2011 because they are the same overall model, but I would get a 2008 service manual just to be sure.

  • @joebridges2754

    @joebridges2754

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@ninja250motorcyclemaintena7 thank you. I like the line about people that put these motors together every day, if they can do it we can do it. Very inspiring. Nice touch

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    4 жыл бұрын

    KZread notified of your comment yesterday but for some reason when I clicked on it I could not find it on 2 of 5 Valve Inspection. So I could only read about a sentence and a half. Can you send it again? I did get the gist of your question. You're right. The service manual is not very specific about how to position the crankshaft. The Clymer Manual is much more detailed. Position the crankshaft at the 1T mark with the cam lobes on cylinder #1 (left cylinder) facing away from each other and measure the valve clearance for the four valves on cylinder #1. When you're done with cylinder #1, position the crankshaft at the 2T mark with the cam lobes on cylinder #2 (right cylinder) facing away from each other and measure the valve clearance on the four valves of cylinder #2. The service manual does not explain this at all.

  • @joebridges2754

    @joebridges2754

    4 жыл бұрын

    I think that's because I deleted my question. I rewatched the video and you had already answered my question. But thank you very much for taking the time to get back to me. And thank you for making this video. I'd be totally screwed without it. I did the measurements last night and the intakes were good but on two of the ex I couldn't even get the .05 (.12mm) gage to slide in. So today out comes the camshaft. Wish me luck, God knows I'll need it. I have a tendency to overlook and mess shit up lol. But not today, I hope

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@joebridges2754 Awesome! I love to hear that people are attempting this work. Let me know how it works out.

  • @DudesatRC
    @DudesatRC4 жыл бұрын

    Is it the same on ninja 250 from -09?

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    4 жыл бұрын

    Yes.

  • @jrodthompson7454
    @jrodthompson74545 жыл бұрын

    is this process the same for a ninja 300?

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    5 жыл бұрын

    I believe almost all sport bikes are dual overhead cam (DOHC) bucket and shim design engines. So yes. It will be the same process. Don't perform the job unless you get the Clymer Manual or the service manual.

  • @vincentvrai
    @vincentvrai3 жыл бұрын

    How often do valves need to be adjusted?

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    3 жыл бұрын

    Every 7500 miles according to the service manual.

  • @chaloemkiatkhaoyai3785
    @chaloemkiatkhaoyai37856 жыл бұрын

    Is it the same to a 2014 ninja 300?

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    6 жыл бұрын

    I have heard that it is the same engine design (just a bit bigger) but I really have no idea. If you're planning to do a lot of work on your motorcycle, the service manual will be your best investment (unfortunately it's not cheap--around $80-100). You should also get the Clymer Manual if they make a book on the Ninja 300 (I have not checked that they do). Clymer's are about $30. Just looking at the Ninja 300 (they are really cool looking bikes and I've seen them all over the place!) I can see that most of the parts are the same as the fourth generation Ninja 250 so there are definitely a lot of similarities.

  • @MRFIXIT-k6y
    @MRFIXIT-k6y2 жыл бұрын

    Annoying just get to the chase if looking at our valves we obviously no how to remove a tank and fairings wast of 40 mins. My shits ripped apart in 15. I just need to adjust my valve. But idk if I trust your work lol yeesh

  • @arksurvivalevolvedforever8985
    @arksurvivalevolvedforever8985Ай бұрын

    250 on a highway scaaaarrrrryyyy

  • @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    @ninja250motorcyclemaintena7

    Ай бұрын

    I've put about 30,000 miles on my Ninja 250 on the freeway.

  • @arksurvivalevolvedforever8985

    @arksurvivalevolvedforever8985

    29 күн бұрын

    Wow That’s amazing

  • @rickydeuce2334
    @rickydeuce23345 жыл бұрын

    Can you take a loook at my vid my bikes is giving me problems

  • @MRFIXIT-k6y
    @MRFIXIT-k6y2 жыл бұрын

    Still did show valve clearance. What a joke

  • @felixconf

    @felixconf

    4 ай бұрын

    It's in parts genius

  • @ryanjones5951
    @ryanjones59515 жыл бұрын

    Dude. This is ridiculous. You spent 20 minutes talking about a plastic retainer clip. You are dragging it out too much.

  • @josepena-yb2lq

    @josepena-yb2lq

    5 жыл бұрын

    Ryan Jones : I took the fairing of my bike and damaged all the rivets, it took me a wile to find the correct rivets , if I had seen this video before trying to remove the fairing I would have avoided a waste of money and time , this a great video