Sir, if I could I would give you a giant hug right now! 7am found a puddle under the truck after I started it, found it leaking from this connector and thought it was going to be a huge job! Thought it was going to be one of those days. Thank you for all your videos on the 2010 Fords (F150). She getting old and needs some TLC and your videos really help me out! THANK YOU!

@michellehatfield1633

29 күн бұрын

You've taken the words right out of my mouth. Love these easy low priced do it ourselves repairs and yes, his videos are sooo helpful.

I'm going to emphasize on the step where you are putting the new sleeve in, make sure you are putting good pressure on it while pushing clip up. It can be a bit tricky to find that spot so work with it. NEVER try and hammer or force the white clip in. Also white clip will not go in if the bulkhead sleeve isn't inserted. Great video as always!

@camerongomez115

Жыл бұрын

Having a problem with my pin going back in , how hard did you have to push it in ?

@PoisonJarl71501

11 ай бұрын

Mine is stuck open…Awesome lol

@larrysalisbury9750

2 ай бұрын

00amwhy can I not get the new sleeve to go all the way in to lock but the old one slides in easily

Did this procedure on a 2010 Ford F150 and this video was perfect. The new bulkhead sleeve needs a good even push top bottom and sides because the new Orings actually fit snug forming a tight seal. After that the locking mechanism locks in place perfect with ease. I had noticed the bulkhead weeping a drop of oil when I was replacing my O2 sensors. The O2 sensor video was another great video by FordTechMakuloco that I watched having no problems changing out my 2 up and 2 downstream sensors.

In my opinion, this should be done when doing a fluid & filter change. The part is only $20 and the pan has be dropped anyway. Wish I had known this before I did my fluid change. Great video. Very helpful.

Easy Peasy,,, Went as smooth as you showed,,, Huge Thanks. I measured the fluid that drained out. 9 quarts for a 2010 f150 5.4 6r80.... 100 bucks parts and fluid.. Great video series.

I wish I had seen this video sooner. With a large trans puddle found under the Expedition, I pulled up my favorite "go to" Ford repair video -FTMULOCO and did the complete Trans fluid drain, replace filter and fluid. Went Perfect with your Videos. Only a slight burn checking the final fluid level after warming fluid. (I failed to follow the OvGlove recommendation. The leak I'm almost positive, was from the bulkhead sleeve, but with 120,000 k, the fluid and filter change was definitely needed. No leaking now though. Probably a cleaner and cooler running trans helped. You are "the Man" for FORD Repairs!! I also did the complete Phaser changeout "per your instructions this past June. No problems and running SILENT. Thanks for the videos

This video saved me a lot of money, thank you for making it. One thing I did was to make sure I had the sleeve in correctly before putting the pan back on. I'm really glad I did because it was not all the way in the first time. I was so sure it was that I almost didn't check. Glad I did or I would of had to take the pan off and redo it. I checked by turning the ignition on and looking on dash for error codes, which there was. I then went back and pulled the sleeve out and tried again, second time no codes. Then I put the pan back on.

@j-dirty5615

Жыл бұрын

What codes did you have

I just want to say that this video is one of the best videos out there it helps with a very expensive looking problem that is really simple to fix so thank you guys so much for the info!

I disconnected the connector and pushed the sleeve hoping it would sit better and reconnected the connector. Still had the the check engine light on the console but cleared the code with a code reader. Its been working fine ever since. Thanks for all the help

Just got through with this repair in the driveway on an '09 f-150 109,000 miles. Fordtechmakuloco, without you taking the time to make this video, this repair would likely have cost us $300 to $400 at the mechanic shop, thanks a million. Only problem we had was the backside of the seal, (the black and white clip part) was a little stubborn to get back in, needed a little extra convincing that it belonged there. Thanks again.

Super great info, Thanks so much. My mechanic (ex-mechanic) wanted to drop the trans and disassemble it. He said it would be between $800 and $1000 to fix.

Very helpful video,I just replaced it on my 2004 BMW 545i and the leaks stopped ,you help me to save at least $1200,thanks a lot.

Dude! Thanks so much for making this video and the other supporting videos. I would not have even tried and would have just paid the dealer to the job, but your video was very clear and demystified the process. Hopefully setting the fluid level to the bottom of the cross-hatch area like you said when the engine is running and not at full temperature works. Again, thanks for taking the time and effort to do these videos, Mike

I just wanted to say thanks for posting this video it saved me a ton of money amd also another thanks to all the commenter's that said you have to give the gasket a tap to get it to seat correctly to get the tab in.

Was quoted $800 bucks and a three day turnaround by the dealer... did it myself for $150 over the course of a morning. Sleeve wanted to be a pain but some patience got it in place. Thanks for the video!

@JimBronson

3 жыл бұрын

They quoted me 4.5 hours labor plus the part and the fluid. I didn't ask how much that would be, I'm going to do it myself. The dealer's parts department sold me the part for only $5 over Amazon's price and genuine Mercon LV fluid for $6.11 a quart, which incidentally is $0.11 cheaper per quart than the Walmart Supertech LV fluid I saw at a Walmart near me.

This came in super handy on my 6L80 gm transmission. Just got it back from rebuild and shop won’t warranty it. This saved me having to take it back in!

wow,that's where the leak is on my truck. Thank you, I'll replace in the spring or when it quits raining. This video is a big help,I saw the harness and the oil but wasn't sure how it came out, now I know thanks again.

Great video. Very helpful. Replaced the sleeve on my 2010 yesterday and this video helped out a lot. Thanks.

Couldn't get new connector to lock in so I swapped the orings to the old connector and it worked. No more leaks. yayyyy. Thank you for your tech videos.

@SexyTexas

Жыл бұрын

How could you tell it was leaking

Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video, you are saving me a lot of money and I appreciate it. I'm going to perform this procedure this week, my question to you is will disconnecting the battery prior to the work being performed protect the ecm from damage from any static discharge that could be caused by human touch?

wow I just replaced my pan gasket and it's still leaking. wish i had watched this first. love your videos.

Your are the best, short well presented, Better than the rest, easy to understand, i got educated and saving on labor can’t ask for much more!

Lol it took me over an hour to reseat the bulkhead lol !!! ( the white clip did not want to push up ) U make it look so easy lol then when I went to start the truck the gears wouldn’t move !! Thank god I saw your other video ! Bottom line I removed the harness and reinstalled it again and it worked !!!!! Thank you ! I thought I was going to have to drop the pan again :(

Thanks a lot I needed to do this and you helped. I’m replacing that same part on a 2010 f150

@Lineman12.4

3 жыл бұрын

Did you have any issue with the retaining clip going back in?

You are always a great help!

Excellent video. Simple & great quality thankyou

Did the repair this past weekend. No lift; jacked up the front. First I drained the fluid. Bought Airpower America FloTool 5060TSMI Topsider Extractor to do the job, but upon further review the HORUSDY Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit for Gas Oil and Liquids would have worked just as good for $50 less. See below. Dropping the pan was the most difficult part, as the six rear pan bolts were tough to get to; you will need a u-joint adapter. Also, if I was doing this again, I would go ahead and replace the 21 pan bolts with new ones. They were pretty rusty, and while in there do it right so you won't have problems if you go in again. Since the fluid was already removed, taking the pan down was not that messy; i had a large flat drip pan propped up on a milk crate to catch the pan and the little fluid as I was removing it. Releasing the while clip and pulling out the connector was a breeze. Prior to removal I verified the depth of it as shown in one of the other vids with a 6 Inch 15 cm Pocket Ruler Flexible Precision Stainless Steel Ruler with Detachable Clips Stainless Steel Pocket Clip Scale Gauge Ruler Metric British System, it was 15mm on the ruler. As many others have noted, it was tough to install the new connector. I had to cover the connector end with a metal cap and use a pry bar to seal it. Verified the depth of the connector with the ruler, and the white clip snapped up into place. I installed a new filter while it; when removing the old filter the orange seal on the stem from the old filter was stuck in the hole and I had to pry it out. When I went to fill it up, I started pumping fluid in with a LubriMatic 55-001 4CC Fluid Pump for Quart Size Bottles. As others have noted, it doesn't fit the qt bottles, and quite honestly it was very time consuming and difficult to do laying on your back. I ran a piece of hose from the engine area into the tranny, fitted a funnel to it, and filled from there. I unfortunately spilled my bucket of old fluid before I had a chance to measure it, so I put in 6 qts. No check engine and it ran smooth. The next day I checked it and it was way overfilled; I ended up removing 1.25 qt with the hand pump which was easier and quicker to use than the Transfer Pump Kit. I have the Summit Racing aftermarket tranny fill tube kit ordered and will install as this will make checking the fluids and any top offs way easier. I hope this helps someone.

Thank you for these very detailed videos. You mentioned drag shifting in the morning. I have a 2013 f150 3.5L EcoBoost. 6r80 Trans. 165000 miles. In the morning I experience what sounds like the transmission is struggling to shift from 3 down to 1st for about 15 minutes of driving. No issues shifting up. After about 20 minutes on the highway the problem goes away. I have been extending my warm up to about 15 minutes with no improvement. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Just notice a pool of tranny fluid under my truck and looking around I think this is the cause. Seems like a simple fix, thanks for the video

Great videos, appreciate all of them.

Thank you for the valuable information your channel provides!! Any advice on what type of cleaner or degreaser to use on the harness connector, bulkhead sleeve and trans housing? Want to make sure I clean up the leaking trans fluid before replacing ! Your help is much appreciated 🙏

Thanks for the video! I'm changing mine out now while new tranny filter and fluid on my 2010 f-150.

Excellent vid, thanks for posting.

Thanks for the vid. I just did this and the Filter change on my 2010 F150 FX4 with the V8 5.4L. I had to add almost 10 quarts of fluid! :o It's now shifting hard in 4 low. But it's fine in 2wd and 4 high. Hoping it settles down after I drive it a bit more.

You have helped me a lot the third brake light the water pump and now this.

Just bought a 2010 f150 got a leveling kit installed a week later and the mechanic told me I have a really bad transmission leak at the back of the transmission hopefully this works. I just ordered the part

Helllo.Thanks ,very informative.Just wondering ,do you have a video of dropping the trans pan on Transit van?If not,can you sugest an article?Thanks

Exactly what's leaking on my '08 SportTrac 6R60. Thanks!!

Dude great job on the video. I don't own a Ford, but enjoyed it

have another question is a good idea to use a conditioner additive into your transmission. I was planing to add BG TRANSMISSION ADDITIVE. thanks again keep up the good work.

Just got done doing this job on my 09 f150. I ran into the same problem with the clip not going back up after inserting the sleeve. Don’t try to force the clip, if it’s not going up it means the sleeve isn’t in fully. What I did is with a long narrow peice of wood and a mallet I gave the sleeve a few taps carefully and that did it,Up went the clip. I put everything back together and just like that saved 500 bucks.

@jeffreyallen3777

3 жыл бұрын

I had a real problem getting my clip back up and I wish I had read your post. I pushed pretty hard on the sleeve while pushing on the clip (I have pretty strong hands) and it wouldn't budge, despite the sleeve appearing to be fully seated. I finally pressed the clip a lot harder than I should have and the pressure must had nudged it just enough to line up the slot, and it finally went up and I didn't break anything. I think your suggestion would have worked for me, so anyone else looking for help with this issue definetly try it. I guess they made the new o rings a lot fatter and that's ok with me because I don;'t want to do it again.I wanted to insall a new pan with a drain plug at the same time but Dorman only makes them for 6r80s 2011 and after. I contacted Dorman and they said the later ones won't fit the o9, which is what I have, and I can't find a stock pan with a drain anywhere else.

Very good video and excellent information, very helpful!

@FordTechMakuloco

10 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Have you made a video on the 6R80 Output Shaft Seal replacement?

Thanks for the help. For some reason my clip got stuck down and wouldn't budge even with bulk head connector out. Had to hit it with a hammer for it to go up.

@crackerjack4105

4 жыл бұрын

That’s where I’m at right now Won’t clip,

@SF-rl7hl

3 жыл бұрын

You can't push white clip up unless the black sleeve is all way in. Do Not try push white clip up without black sleeve in place. It requires black sleeve in to free white clip so it will move up. it will not go up (locked) without sleeve in place. Never hit with hammer Never!

Dude I’ve changed my trans gasket twice and a pan…..it’s the plug bro ain’t no way thanks for the video!

@Redman_30

8 ай бұрын

And now my truck won’t crank and doesn’t show me in gear

Great video but unfortunately it is still leaking for me after the new o-rings. Granted, it's no way near as bad as it was, but still leaks about a pancakes worth of fluid every time it sits for a couple of days. I'll attempt another fix in the spring but this time i'm going to use hi temp RTV on the outside of the connector. I knew I should have used it to begin with. Live and learn.........

@FordTechMakuloco

7 жыл бұрын

You should never have to use sealant there are two o-rings keeping the fluid in one of them must of been damaged or rolled upon install.

2012 f150 4x4 ecoboost., Got a hard slam when shifted into gear and then the wrench symbol popped up. It was in limp mode. Crawled underneath and found fluid all around this plug....not dripping but it was wet. Pulled the wires out, sprayed everything with contact cleaner, then blew it out with air. Like magic the wrench went away. Still had a check engine light so I cleared that with my obdII scanner and all is good. Not sure if the lever part was loose allowing trans oil into the harness or if I need to pull the pan and replace the bulkhead.

Thanks for the information !!

Definitely helpful! Thank you!

Thanks bud. Nobody mentions the damn tab on the bottom of the sleeve and its placement.

FYI anyone who comes across this, replacing solenoids solved my problem, so far. I had slip on 4-5 upshift, jolt on 5-6, and 2-1 downshift bump. Codes came up 4f8A and also 4f86 for 4-5 upshift but no other codes. Originally i just attempted with the bridge and finger seals, but that did not solve the problem. I have been able to test the car on at least one road trip and a few high load shifts, and so far so good. If anyone buys a car with a higher mileage ZF automatic transmission (over 120k miles, 200k km) at the first sign of transmission issues I would recommend this service. I would recommend disconnecting the battery during this service. When putting the car back together make sure the sliding arm on the valvebody is aligned with the shift selector on the trans housing.

@JimBronson

3 жыл бұрын

What vehicle was this done on? FordTechMakuloco has a video on servicing the molded lead frame on 2011+ Fords with the 6R80. The molded lead frame interfaces with the solenoids. I would have to think that is cheaper than replacing all the solenoids, if yours is a 2011+ anyway. Mine is a 2010 and doesn't have the molded lead frame.

Shop wanted to charge me 550 for this job, now I’ll be doing it myself. Thanks

@BradKing1975

3 жыл бұрын

Ford dealer called this and rear seal, Ford here in Ottawa called $1300- f*ck1ng crooks. Called my local tranny shop, $180 + parts.

Note (in case this helps anyone) - video says 2009 or newer for mountaineer however this 6r60 transmission started in the explorer/mountaineer starting in 2006 for the 4.6L

@brucewayne5470

3 жыл бұрын

Thank You.

Thanks for the information

is it always this bulkhead sleeve that leaks? Dealer is saying my Lead Frame is leaking on the wires and out this bulkhead. I have 2010 Explorer and you explained in your other video it is all integrated and expensive!

yes when I unplug the harness connector there it's a bunch of oil

Have you had any 2010 f150 6r80 with converter shudder until totally locked when hot at 0 and still at 78000 miles but more frequent ford has said is normal. does not do it all the time converter apply is very slow. How can converter apply be made firmer? I feel this slow apply just adds heat to the plates and frictions thinning the LV oil more than it already is. Oh this educational video was great. im on my 3rd drain and fill already

I have an 07 Expedition with the 6R75 trans. I this trans essentially the same as the 6R60 & 6R80 and subject to the same type of leak? If so, basically the same repair as your video shows? Thanks!

I have a 2007 Expedition EL and I changed the pan gasket a couple years ago when I did a filter change used a Ford EOM gasket. Well discovered it was all wet with trans fluid under the truck recently. I changed the gasket again and keep getting leaks. The house I live in now has a rather steep driveway and it seems to leak worst when I park forward. I keep checking if bolts are loose. This is driving me crazy. Does my 2007 have this problem in this video?! That may explain it leaking worse when parked with rear of truck lower.

thanks for your help

I got my 09 f150 a transmission service done last week at my local dealership then this past Wednesday i took it back because it was still leaking, they said it was the bulkhead sleeve and changed it. Well now after the bulkhead change ive had nothing but problems, check engine light, wrench light, had ford run codes and said i lost connection to almost everything and cleared the codes and updated my PCM, once clear the truck is fine then after overnight being turned off i go out to crank up the motor and all the codes come back.

@FordTechMakuloco

7 жыл бұрын

They did not seat the bulkhead sleeve into the trans all the way you must set it just right and I even measure them to make sure they are fully installed or concerns like these arise. See here- kzread.info/dash/bejne/q4qtx5qFl8WYfdY.html

Very helpful. Thanks

Great video. I need your help. I sprayed the connector with brake fluid to try and clean out some the transmission fluid and grime. The truck now wont start. My sense is i shorted the pins to the lead frame. Is it possible the main computer is shorted as well or should i start by replacing the lead frame?

great video thanx for sharing

I am in the process of changing my filter and thought I would change this now while I'm in there. Currently it's not leaking. I pull down the retainer and the connector will not pull out. I put a little pressure behind it with a pry bar and still nothing. I'm thinking I will skip it since mine is dry and hope messing with it didn't cause a leak... Any thoughts?

Well done. I can't believe that with the reputation of that great German engineering that they can't make a pass through like this with finely machined parts, 2 O-rings and a ribbed quad seal that doesn't leak!!! I serviced the same trans on my '04 Jaguar and while I was in there I replaced this too, even though it wasn't leaking. 6 months later, the car is laid up for the winter, hasn't been started in weeks, just like that the POS just starts leaking all over the place!! Wtf! Gotta be a better way to seal these up!

Great Video.

I am probably going to swap the whole sleeve for good measure while i have the pan down, but could I theoretically just replace o-rings alone? Im not sure how durable the plastic is, and I imagine that it warps with the excess heating and cooling over the years.

Hiya! Best Ford videos out there! Help me, please! Just did this repair, service flush etc. The dudes put some Castrol ATF. Said it was above OEM standards. I cant find a Castrol ATF online that is equal to Mercon SP. Smells a bit burny :/ Did they screw up??? Help!!!

The new sleeve refused to let the clip slide back up. The old sleeve allowed it to slide up no problem. Currently putting new orings on old sleeve hope it works

I have a 2011 f150 with what appears to be trans fluid dripping from the bell housing, is this the fix? I’ve looked at tsb 12-11-14, are you familiar with this tsb? And do you have a video for it?

Do you need to disconnect the battery before doing this? Excellent video Btw. Thanks!

@FordTechMakuloco

9 жыл бұрын

Scott Ridley No you don't.

Okay, I’m going on a whim writing this comment in hopes I get a reply knowing this is an old video: I have this same exact sleeve-connector operation on my BMW E60 525i. I was just given this car. The previous owner couldn’t get it to start after replacing all the mechatronics solenoids. I just went to work on it today, and noticed the sleeve the previous owner installed, was not seated all the way in. As I got to the old sleeve to remove it, I noticed the connector that supposed to twist onto it, was a little loose too. So I installed a new OEM sleeve, and I’ve been having the most frustrating time twisting the connector onto the sleeve. It will not twist onto it! After trying for 2hrs, I gave up, took a break, and then went back underneath the car to figure out why I couldn’t twist it on. I realized then that the tabs inside the twist part of the connector, that falls into the slots on the sleeve, we’re broken. All three of them are broken! So that’s why the connector won’t twist onto the sleeve! To say the least I’m pretty upset. Previous owner definitely broke them, and there is such little space, and the connector wire harness isn’t that long, that I now have to drop the entire transmission to access this connector! So I’m coming here to ask if anyone else has had this issue and what they did to remedy it? Do I need to drop the transmission to do this? If so I’m just going to forget it tbh. I don’t have that kind of time right now.

My lock tab won’t go in regardless or the sleeve being inserted or not. Help?

Mine looks like the fluid is coming from the bell housing, looks pretty dry all around the pan, could this be it?

awesome, Thank you so much....!!!!!!!

Help! I'm trying to change the output speed shaft sensor and I cannot get the bulkhead connector sleeve out. I believe I have the retainer pressed down as far as it can go because I can hear a click, but the sleeve will not budge. Any ideas on how to get the sleeve out?

I replaced the sleeve in the back of the transmission but still looks like I am getting fluid around the wiring. There is a quad ring on the pigtail and I was wondering if that quad ring can be replaced without replacing the whole pigtail and wires?

Thanks I’ll check that

Can you do this repair with the truck on ground level, or do you need a full lift, or at least have the front up on wheel jacks?

Do you know if the bulkhead sleeve needs to be changed on a 2015 Ford transit t350 xlt?

Do you recommend replaced the o ring on the male portion of this set? Looks like you can buy that plug for 50 bucks or so but you're having to splice all the wires. Just seeing if it's common for the plug to leak as well.

I watched a couple of your videos. One you show cleaning up the sleeve and replacing the o-rings . Do you recommend replacement or cleaning? Does the pan have a seal or old school gasket ? Thanks for your time.

@FordTechMakuloco

7 жыл бұрын

+65davem19 As long as the entire sleeve is available I would use it. The pan gasket is an elastomeric style and is reusable.

Does the 2014 f150 5.0l still have the orange o’rings in it. I have no leaks but want to do tranny service and connector as a preventative? Thanks

Where can I get a new passthrough bulkhead connector??

I tried but even will a lot of pressure, I could not get the sleeve all way in so that I could push up white tab. I noticed the two very small tabs mid way up black sleeve do not match my original part not sure that matters. Also I have red O rings on OEM and the new part are black o rings. I watch your video and you looked like didn't have push hard to get black sleeve all way in? I don't get it you made it look easy? help!

i replaced the bulkhead sleave and put everything back together and the truck will not crank over . the lights turn on and in cab lights but nothing happens when i turn the key. It shows a yellow symbol which i assume is the transmission warning light. Any words of wisdom. I pushed the bulkhead sleave with left hand while i locked it in place with the clip but something still is wrong.

Good job

Got a 6r80 that had what I though was a leaking pan gasket. Come to find out it is the bulkhead. So we dropped the pan, pulled the white clip down and replaced the outer bulkhead. Well after about 200 miles it still leaked a tad. Worse part is it went into limp mode and stayed in 2nd gear, lost speedo, wrench light came on and Trac control. Pulled the code and got U0101. Which is connection lost to TCM. What's the deal? I'm assuming it has to do something with the bulkhead we replaced? Bouncing my head here.

I had mine done a month ago First time it was the Wrench light and traction control icons, a few weeks later and now I am getting wrench icon, traction control icon, low fuel to E and LCD on dash has ------ and low fuel icon on my dash. Could all this be from that fix or something else? Thanks

Question. '08 Expedition 4x4. No known problems or slips with transmission prior to this. Possibly not fully stopped when place in park. Now it wont engage into any gear, reverse or forward. The linkage all works and moves the arm on the outside of the case. It can be placed in park and neutral with park and neutral working as they should. Any idea what to look at next? Thank you in advance, and thank you for the helpful and informative videos. SAW

@nathanisaacson3345

6 жыл бұрын

Shawn Wright brake control switch needs repaired. Like $15 on amazon

I followed this tutorial and it's been a few months with no issue, suddenly it's leaking again. When I disconnect the wires and grab the sleeve it's got play and thats where its leaking from. After I installed the first time I couldn't move it, any Suggestions?

Help!!! Any idea when my lock clip will not slide back up? Even tried removing new bulkhead connector and sliding it back up with no connector in place. It wont budge. 2010 Expedition

Is this the correct part number for the 6R80 - 6L2Z-7G276-AA?

Thanks

how about the Transmission range sensor of 2017.ford.transit xlt, do you have a part number for this..?

This has helped alot. My 2010 F150 Connector Sleeveis also leaking. Easy fix. Where can I buy the connector sleeve and how much round about do you think it will cost just for the sleeve?

@FordTechMakuloco

7 жыл бұрын

Here is the link to the latest sleeve- amzn.to/2pbPIke

@harveyib114

7 жыл бұрын

FordTechMakuloco Thanks. Also do you recommend buying Valvoline Mercon LV or the Motorcraft Ford Mercon LV? Valvolone at Autozone is $6 and some change for a quart and Ford's Motorcraft is $5 and change for the quart?

@FordTechMakuloco

7 жыл бұрын

Always use the Motorcraft the additive package is very specific.

@harveyib114

7 жыл бұрын

Ok.

Tried to do this repair and the fill plug stripped out. I can turn it both directions and it won't come out. Any ideas? Thought about the oversized plug like in an oil pan stripped plug. I just wouldn't be able to put the dipstick back in. If anyone has ran into this or has advise please let me know. Thank you.

So I reached under and unfastened the connector. The wire and inside the connector was wet but it didnt look like it was leaking from the bulkhead

I took the bulk head off and replace the seals but when I try to put it back on it won’t go in