that is a genius way of telling!

Great video Walt, thanks for showing so many details of the whole process!

Another great video, thanks for posting Walt. Cheers!

Nice job, he's a lucky boy to have you on the task....

Mr Walt you are the best in the chainsaws! Thanks for the time you spent on the vídeos! Keep going! Have a good week!

That was a thing of beauty. You definitely know your saws in general but 372’s in particular

Hi Walt. That case separator works to pull the crank into the case too with the adapters. I've done it on Stihl but haven't tried it on Husky/Jonsered. And thanks for the information on the 2165 yesterday, it really helped me out.

Nice job . Your kinda like me retired from working for a municipality and doing what you enjoy . Working for the town was good but doing what i like is better 👍👍

Great video again! Greetings from Finland (Ostrobothnia). I had the same issue with the plug wire, now the saw is running great again. I'm running with oem mahle 50mm cylinder AND farmertech 50mm piston, 195psi with your recommended 20thousands squish (put the cylinder on the lathe)... so far so good :) Let's see how long the farmertech 1,2mm piston rings will hold up the compression. Thanks for all your tips and videos

Good video there Walt , weird why the seal was so loose in there ,but at least no major destruction over time, lucky the user figured it out running funny

The right tools make it less stressful on man and machine 😁.at first I might have tried bearing retainer on the seal But if it had worked I'd have not noticed the rough bearing...was that flywheel side (I'd need to view that part again)... very nice video... the wireless tach is great job..bye..nntr..

yup thats definitely worth it to me

Thanks for the videos, I've learned a lot about the 372 repairs, rebuilt my old 480 several times, several Macs, and a couple of Stihls, but haven't got into any of the newer Huskys. Plug wire rubbing seems to be an issue on all the different Husky models I've had, 394, 362, 372, 61 and 3120(never had that problem on the 480), looks like the larger fins exacerbate it on the x torq . Causation or correlation, do the bearings cause the seals to go bad or do the seals cause the bearings to go bad? Just as the carb diaphragms go bad, get hard, brittle and less effective or leak, solvents in the fuel , ozone, dust and dirt deteriorate the seals. It becomes obvious when when the saw starts running poorly but is usually camouflaged by enriching the mixture until the damage is done. Replacing the seals should be done as preventive maintenance as often or more than rebuilding a carb. I've seen many guys replace bearings and put old seals back in. Penny wise but pound foolish. Hard hit on the case most likely "sprung" the case, elongating the seal and bearing race enough that the seal started to spin. I'd be worried about the bearing starting to spin in the future

Nice

I will bet that little O ring that goes on the crank under the spacer was vaporized, too.

Where can I find that special tools, found a couple on Amazon, but not the Husky threaded puller. Or tool part numbers for our dealer. Thanks

It seems the 372 bearing is somewhat prone to failure, whereas the 572 has rectified this entirely by using bearing from model up the line?

so was that still cost effective for the customer for labour and parts .great video walt

@afleetcommand

5 жыл бұрын

1/3 the cost of a new saw, i can't tell you as that metric is different for everyone

...I have always just loosened(not removed) nut/washer, whacked the end of the crank/nut with a brass punch and brass hammer, and the flywheel usually pops loose, haven't ruined anything yet...I prefer that method to fiddling around with little pullers and bolts...Great videos, BTW!..:)

@afleetcommand

5 жыл бұрын

I get it :) I've used a two jaw puller for decades....I was asked to try that goofy thing. Should have done two side by side..I kind of did with the case tool vs. c-clamp. Use the two jaw puller to add a little tension and tap as you do with your approach. Fast, easy, no fiddling with anything. Flywheel pops right off. Every time. :) When the flywheel is "stuck" I just pick everything up by the puller....then tap. BUT someone might want to see that puller approach. Pretty much in all the video's that 2 jaw puller is used in an action speaks louder than words moment...:)

I believe I had read that you are selling your crank install tools. If they are available for Stihl saws I would like to know about price, shipping etc. Thanks

@afleetcommand

5 жыл бұрын

I connect with folks on the conversation or message feature over on opeforum.com. For a Stihl 660 they end up being around $120 delivered, sometimes a bit less depending on shipping costs. Each additional "jack" after the first two another $25 bucks & each additional bushing $25 as well.

@trueemail9687

5 жыл бұрын

@@afleetcommand Would they also fit the other saws such at the 026, 044. (MS 260, MS440) etc?

I'm at 8 min in. Last one I had like this the seal was loose AND had disintegrated. ..massive leak. It over revved so much that The crank had opened up a bit on the pin and was wider than stock. Tossed the case half and the crank. :(

@afleetcommand

5 жыл бұрын

So HOW did the case get opened up?? Did the bearing fail to the point the crank was beating on the seal directly? On this saw it looked like it was "spun" or something was and I can't visualize how that could have happened.

@matthewolson8875

5 жыл бұрын

@@afleetcommand the crank got opened and was rubbing on the inside of the crankcase.

@matthewolson8875

5 жыл бұрын

@@afleetcommand yeah I don't exactly know how the seal spun....but on mine the rubber was gone from the seal. But the seal was loose in the case same as yours

@matthewolson8875

5 жыл бұрын

@@afleetcommand better answer...the only mechanism I can think of that would open the case enough to spin the seal is heat...a lot of it. So much maybe the rubber doesn't slip as well on the bushing and it binds? Just an idea

@afleetcommand

5 жыл бұрын

I guess any thing is possible and the "nylon" was brittle, very brittle even though it was still together. I have to wonder if I'm cleaning up after an attempt to fix a saw that had bearing failure as you described...failed and they stuck the stuff in and crossed their fingers. The seal I saw wasn't the guilty party but stuck in there after a failure. Why I didn't see the original seal damage, just the case after the event.. And it ran. Enough to get sent out, but the customer complaint of idle issues sent it to this place then me...that's my bet. Probably failed as your did, an attempted repair leaked...then to me.

My guess - the bearing had failed a long time ago and they kept tightening up the clutch to keep the saw running and ultimately the seal was spinning on the oil pump spacing sleeve. Just like a spinning bearing wipes out the mating surface for the bearing in the case, a spinning seal can eat up the mating surface for the seal. That’s just my guess. The seal is steel and the case is magnesium, go figure.

My stock 372xpw is feeling like it needs a nap, buddy tested it and its at 125. Mine is not xtorq . Parts recommendations? Do gets /dont get parts?

@afleetcommand

7 ай бұрын

Hard to find OEM 51.4 new parts. But I would start by trying to at least find a piston and possibly salvage your OEM cylinder. Also put in new case seals and make absolutely certain the case screws are tight! I've seen them rattle apart and then the resultant air leak waste a top end. If it were mine, I would start by pulling the ignition & flywheel, check the case screws, put in a new crank seal. At a minimum. Then pull the clutch & bar oil pump, put a new case seal in there. If I could find a NOS 51.4 top end, get it and build with that one. Then do the replacing of pulse line & fuel line possibly intake boot. Essentially you added another complete life cycle to tha saw at that point, and in my humble opinion its worth doing.

@jordanhenson626

7 ай бұрын

@@afleetcommand that's what I was leaning towards doing I just gotta save up the money and make sure I actually get the right parts.

@jordanhenson626

3 ай бұрын

Hey so update ( got distracted by a a bunch of other saws). I finally pulled the top half, cylinder and piston are the closet I've ever even seen to flawless, massive air leak clutch side. Immediate release like no seal or any obstruction at all. I'm finishing tear down and will probably be trying to bend your ear if you'll be around tomorrow

Does anyone know if it is a husky 272xp or 372xp parts that are interchangeable with a jonsered 2071 turbo

@afleetcommand

5 жыл бұрын

372 parts are at some level. Top end and related parts. Essentially a 2071 is of the era of the 371 and early 372's

@nicktuttle7170

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info im rebuilding my 2071 and there isnt to many parts out there for that saw compared to the 372

hi walt. ive been watching alot of your vids. i own an run several different huskys .181,288,264,394xp . an a couple 3120's ,, ive looked at and desided to order a couple of the farmer tec 660 kits and wanted to know if you have had any other issues besides the chain adjusters and soft grab handles ? thanks... chris.. [C&C tree removal / tickridge wood products]

@afleetcommand

5 жыл бұрын

First it took a fair amount of development to get them to the point mine are, I wouldn't recommend them for a professional service. You folks typically don't have time to futz with these things as every one will need a little development. I've gone through the litany on a few video's but the minimum requirements to get them in the ball park will be trigger / choke controls...both pieces, chain brake linkage and usually chain brake handle as well. Handle bar. Chain adjusters modified, and often the carbs have to be tweaked or replaced with Tillotsons or OEM Walbros. Decomp with OEM stihl or Husqvarna. Also the Hyway muffler as it has a spark arrestor and I would recommend one of the Hyway top ends. THEN there still will be a little monkeying around until you learn their idiosyncrasies. Stick with OEM please. :) After all that, I have gone back to one of my early recommendations as the fuel lines get soft. So while things are all apart consider OEM boot and pulse line along with OEM fuel lines. All there of my test saws had the fuel lines changed after a year or two. You asked...:) I think I articulated this in the Hyway build...the last one I did. BUT that saw has really performed well....but its no where near as it came out of the box. SO that is why I can't recommend them for a typical tree service who are about making money vs. screwing around developing saw builds.

@afleetcommand

5 жыл бұрын

You would be better off starting with their big blue Holzfforma 660 offering and start developing from there. They come in a much better configuration.

@chriskringle5309

5 жыл бұрын

im used to working on my own saws ..ive rebuilt my 181 , 288, 268 and used aftermarket parts on them that i had to clean up and tweak to make rite.. i ordered 2 of the lego puzzle 660 saws. and will be trying them out . i have stock husky decomp in a bag and i watched the adjuster mod vid. i guess i will see how this will turn out.. im planing on use n them as back up .and fire wood cutting saws.

@chriskringle5309

5 жыл бұрын

thanks for the info .. i had already ordered them b4 i got the message back from you.. i guess i will watch all of your videos on the 660's and change what needs changed as i assemble it.. thanks for your great videos and helpful information on all of these products..

@afleetcommand

5 жыл бұрын

K, Went back through my notes, and to get those saws to where they have now survived in a real environment. I have three now that have. The parts common to all three that I upgraded were: Hyway Handle Bar Hyway Clutch Hyway Muffler ( Needed the spark arestor ) Hyway Intake boot OEM pulse line OEM Thottle / Choke plastic controls. All of the pieces. OEM Bar Studs and Nuts OEM Fuel Lines ( All the Chicom stuff got soft) Husqvarna OEM decomp OEM "O-ring" seals for Gas and Bar Oil caps OEM Chain Brake Spring Also "shimmed" all the chain adjusters AND Tweaked the throttle plates so that actually shut. I would suggest in addition to those things above: Tillotson replacement or OEM Walbro carb Either a Hyway 52mm Popup piston or complete top end. Does make them snappier. The things that have failed on those saws.....Just a clutch spring. AND the chain brake handles got soft and started "hooking" the muffler...so replaced with OEM (Pricy!) AND three saw are built to the above recipe and all three are still in the field.

Hm... not every 365/372 after 2010 is XT. The latest I can see is 2013.

.... ЗИМА ...ОДНАКО......

@afleetcommand

4 жыл бұрын

Not quite, it's 15 degrees (F) today but no snow yet. Frozen ground is perfect to get out in the woods right now....where I need to be vs. on this key board.

@user-ze1xi9is3t

4 жыл бұрын

@@afleetcommand у нас в украине - 10 по ЦЕЛЬСИЮ ....ВЕТЕР 10 МЕТРОВ В СЕКУНДУ ...