This video was awesome. A long time ago I did b/w and now I want to try color. I always used to think it was way too complicated but this video really made it VERY clear!! Now I just need to find a good enlarger!! I will use this video as my guide!! Thank You!

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

That's great Pete, and indeed, it is perfectly feasible to print color at home! I definitely recommend trying it. Of course, like with anything, there is a learning curve, but this is in my opinion a manageable one. Have fun!

Thank you Korak for your patient and clear video tutorial here. I’m printing RA4 at home and am recently taking a hack with homemade chemistry from scratch!

@koraks9939

5 ай бұрын

Thanks so much! I'd be very happy to hear about your experiences with home-made chemistry!

Wow! What a great video! One of the most detailed videos on color printing that I've seen so far.

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! That's what I set out to do!

Really good explanations. Your info on the replenished chemistry is helpful. Cheers

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you Karl!

Man i cant thank you enough for this priceless information!

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

Hey, that's great to hear! :)

Korak, you're a print wizard, seriously. I hope you're well. I see the last comments are 10 months ago. You won a Like and a Subscriber. And if I may say, that print is Etsy material if you catch my drift 😉 Will go look at your channel now. All the best 🤙🏻

what a great tutorial! i think i might actually give it a go, now.. i´ve been printing black and white for years and always wanted to try color but i just found it a bit daunting. Thank you for doing this video!!

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

As you can see, it's not very daunting at all! If you can do b&w, you can do color!

Great video! I do room temp RA4 tray development too, and have has really good success with it.

This is great, Im guna give color printing a try soon. Just bought a color printing filter set because I only have a B&W enlarger. Thanks for sharing your process there’s not much information on this on KZread.

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Shawn, and nice to hear that you're going to give it a try! Filters will work just as well, but it's more time consuming to change filtration 'settings' by adding or removing filters from your pack. However, that's how it was done originally, and today it will still work as well as it did back in the old days, provided your filters are of decent quality. I personally found it too much of a hassle and if you are going to print color with any regularity, I'd highly recommend picking up an enlarger with a dichroic color head. Especially for 35mm they're very cheap and easy to find; a little less so for medium or large format, but they're still around. Good luck and have fun printing color, it's a neat trick!

This is great thanks so much!

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks, glad to hear!

Great explanation on how to cut the paper rolls, thanks! Personally unless I'm just not seeing it I don't have the black issue with the Fuji Crystal Archive paper but my main gripe with it is as you said the weight of it being so thin and flimsy it's almost see through. I'd like to in the future try a slightly heavier more weighted paper.

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, and yeah, it's nice if a paper is a bit stiffer IMO. Do give it a try!

very very useful!!! thanks, i develop at 20℃adn 2min, blix 1min, fine~~~ but i add rinsing after developing 15secs

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, that sounds good!

Thanks for this tutorial! Very useful video! I have made already a few dozen color prints so I already know the basics. I really enjoy the color printing and the results. What is problem to me that I still can not control the chemistry(what is the correct replenishing rate, also what is the correct replenisher ratio; I can obtain locally Tetenal minilab chemistry for reasonable price level, but unfortunately can not get a data sheet how to mix and replenish it..). At the moment I am struggling with a slightly reddish brown stain on the papers white surface after developing+bleachfixing. If I only develop the paper or only bleachfix the paper then the whites stay white. Any tip what can cause this?

Have you ever tried replenishing chemistry from one manufacturer with replenishers by another? The only kit available here in Australia is Tetenal but then the only replenishers are Kodak.

I would be super interested in reading that document you mention about the enlarger conversion to LED as well as how you use the RGB for printing as all the other information I have found is about CMY. I haven’t found too much information with people talking about using additive colour for enlarging other than people arguing in forums without ever actually having used it.

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Miles, here's the link where I discuss the internals of the RGB enlarger: www.photrio.com/forum/threads/craziness-using-leds-to-print-ra4-and-b-w.171911/ I'm currently working on a new and improved version, but work is slow ;)

Great video! Do you have any favorite fuji paper? Glossy, lustre or matte ? Planning on buying but not Shure Wich way to go ✌🏻

Nothing is harder than getting a roll of Kodak paper in Europe these days. I admit that Fuji DP II is a very good paper, but it is the only one available. Of course there is Fuji CA, but it is not up to my standards. Sometimes I would like have those "Kodak colors" in my prints. I am aware of the problems Kodak had some 10 years ago when people thought there will be no more analog photography. Nowadays, they would sell 10 times more their Portra 400 than they can produce.

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, it's a pity and very frustrating about the Kodak paper. I understand that Kodak divested their paper business to a Chinese party and that this may have something to do with the supply problems, but I havent looked into it very deeply I admit. I did at some point (about one year ago) contact Kodak with the question if/when Endura would be available in Europe again, but never received a response. Now that I've got my new darkroom set up, I might try polling my regular supplier once more, but I'm not very hopeful. Like you said, sometimes I just want those Kodak colors. The blues and reds of Fuji don't compare to Endura.

I dunno about Fuji but Kodak supports very very specific true monochrome safelights at dim setting. Red incandescent lightbulb wont cut it.

@koraks9939

11 ай бұрын

Red is definitely the wrong color for RA4 safelight, yes. The sweet spot is 595nm off the top of my head, which is a deep orange. However, also today's Kodak papers (insofar/if still made, which is highly doubtful at this point) are quite sensitive altogether, which they need to be to enable digital exposure. I can confirm that Fuji paper also will withstand very minimal exposure to such safelight conditions, but the permissible exposure (without any color shift) is so minimal that I don't bother with it!

By the time A4 was introduced, no one was try processing color prints. Almost every one was using rotating drums because you didn't have all of the practical problems of doing all of the processing in the dark, the equipment stayed cleaner, and the consumption of chemistry was more efficient (less costly). For everything here, none of those factors has changed in 35 years. What I'd like to see is a very detailed video on design and build of that LED adaption of the big Durst enlarger, assuming it works as well as the traditional dichroic filter system. I'd love to modify my medium format Durst to LEDs. While there are a numbers of videos on the subject, most are either poorly done, or fail to achieve a really successful result.

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment. Indeed, most people I know of do RA4 in either drums or using RT processors, which at least have the benefit of being able to do part of the process with the lights on. Personally, I find tubes cumbersome, but it's a personal preference - and I don't mind being in the dark for a minute or two when developing the paper. In terms of chemistry economy, a replenished tray development system is quite economical - much more so than using the chemistry one shot in drums as many people do. As to the LED enlarger: I've done some posts about it on Photrio, which you can find here: www.photrio.com/forum/threads/craziness-using-leds-to-print-ra4-and-b-w.171911/ This thread outlines the design principles underlying it and also goes into the challenges encountered on the way. Maybe I'll do a video on it as well one day, but I feel that a written account with pictures is actually more effective in this instance.

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Randall, my apologies for the late comment, but maybe one day I'll do a video on the enlarger as well. Sadly I didn't video-document the design and build process, but I can say that it was a process that too a few months and several iterations for all aspects in order to get something that works acceptably. It may not be as detailed as you'd like, but I've written a fairly in-depth post (and some replies) of my approach and the working principles & design choices here: www.photrio.com/forum/threads/craziness-using-leds-to-print-ra4-and-b-w.171911/

Very comprehensive and informative video, thank you very much!! One thing surprised me a lot though. I've certainly never seen anything like an LED-powered enlarger but it blows my mind to learn that you use it for color processing! What kind of LED light source do you use? Is it like an RBG LED that you have calibrated yourself?

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Carles, many thanks for your kind words! Yes, the LED enlarger works quite well. I have made the light source of separate red, green and blue LEDs, with the blue ones having their emission peak around 425nm and the red ones are 650nm LEDs. With integrated RGB light sources there can be color problems because the blue is generally around 450-460nm and the reds are usually 620nm, which does not seem to align well with the response curve of the paper. However, if you read the comments of @Matthias Hägström, he reports good results with a smartphone-app controlled RGB video light. I'm currently working on a new version of my light controller, but because I want it to be significantly better than the current version, this involves re-engineering the entire system from the ground up, so it has been taking quite some time!

@carlesaraguz

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 Awesome!! I'll be following your progress then :) Thanks for sharing your insight

Great video. I watched in other videos that some people don't use stop bath between developer and blix. Is It necessary?

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! No, a stop bath is not necessary, but it prevents the pH of the blix rising too much as developer is carried over into the blix. Usually this shouldn't be a problem if the blix is replenished sufficiently. I'm a bit sloppy with replenishment, so I prefer to use a stop bath to ensure good blix life.

Excellent, comprehensive look at RA-4 - Thank You! That LED conversion of the old Durst 5x7 enlarger looks amazing. One question: what is the optimal pH value for RA-4 developer in your opinion?

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the kind words! The optimum pH for the developer is defined by the manufacturer, so refer to the datasheet of your chemistry. So it's not a matter of opinion, it's a matter of definition and specification. Best stick as close as you can to what the manufacturer recommends. These recommendations vary a bit between different brands and even types of chemistry (e.g. Fuji has several RA4 developer variants and each has a slightly different pH definition), but usually the recommended pH for the developer is between 10.20 and 10.30. If for some reason you have no access to any documentation, 10.25 is a fairly safe guess. But knowing is better than guessing!

@unityoc

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 Ok, thanks. There are certain things in the process like stop bath and prewash that are open to interpretation so I was just wanting to make sure that developer pH is not one of them. RA-4 kit and paper availability here in Australia is extremely limited (even more so with COVID) but I hope to start 8x10" contact prints sometime before the end of the year.

Did you ever end up documenting a the LED source for the durst 138? or make the improved version? Would love to try it myself

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

Not yet, it's still on my to do list though!

hi Korak, found your video so useful. I was looking at the best way to cut rolls in the dark myself so it was great to see your set up. Very smart! One question. How high is your paper holder? Thanks a lot!

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you! I measured the most critical dimension of the holder, which is the distance between the central axle and the lower brace, which dictates the maximum roll diameter that can be accommodated. It's 20cm, which is sufficient for the 88 meter rolls that I use.

@MR-go7vx

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 thanks a lot! Very useful to know!

Great video, has helped immensely. How do you store the large paper rolls?

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Many thanks, I'm glad it was a helpful video! Well, the rolls I use aren't all that big (considering that larger sizes such as 16"+ width are pretty common), and that helps with the storage issues. What I usually do is carefully open the plastic-coated cardboard bags the Fuji rolls come in so that I can roll them back up when I put a roll back into it. Still, I find these bags tend to suffer from pinholes, so I usually also create a cardboard box from some scrap cardboard or boxes, and if I feel like it, I'll even tape tinfoil into the inside. The boxes I make are two-part boxes with a lid fitting over the lower half so I can conveniently work with the boxes in the dark. This works better than the default folded 'lids' of cardboard boxes which will always have several seams running across them. So it just takes some scrap cardboard boxes (the heavier the cardboard, the better), some sturdy tape and a knife to put something together that works OK.

@RobertoRodriguez-gg6ei

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 thanks, appreciate all the information.

Hi, I’m hoping you can clarify a little further on how the chemistry is able to be kept at room temperature. Is it just the time spent developing the print needs to be longer? Or is there more to it than that? Everything I’ve read online stresses that a specific temp must be maintained so I’m curious how this works Thank you for making this video!

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Laura, thanks for asking and thanks for your compliment! In my experience simply extending the development time is sufficient to deal with the lower temperatures than officially stated. It is possible that color balance and print to print consistency suffer marginally when not adhering to official processing parameters, so if you're doing color-critical work (art reproduction, fashion photography with the requirement that the photos perfectly match the real life garments etc), this may not be for you, but for general purpose photography (landscape, portraiture etc) I have not seen any grave issues.

Do you have any experience using Fujicolor Crystal Archive Paper Digital Paper Type DPII for analog development?

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

No, I haven't tried this particular paper, but I don't see a reason why it shouldn't work. I have tried other papers that are 'for digital' (Kodak Royal and Fuji Crystal Archive Supreme HD) and they worked fine for 'analog' development.

Thank you, very informative video! if you had the availability would you use a calibration device? I am getting into RA4 printing and wonder wether i should use the calibrator in the beggining or learn the basics first. Another question I would like to ask is wether you have changed developer, I havent been able to find the MP90 in european retailers in the searches i did, only MP108 and in the long run I dont think i can afford to go the tetenal small kit route. Best regards, ct

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

If by calibration device you mean a color analyzer: it's not a necessity, really. Some people prefer using one, but I sold mine off because I didn't use them. As to the developer: the MP108 will work fine! All the Fuji MPxx developers should work more or less identically for a home user in trays. The main difference is the rate of replenishment; refer to the manufacturer's product sheet for more information, but as I recall, MP108 would require replenishment of 108ml per square meter of processed paper. However, I'd replenish more than that when using open trays for development as it wears down the developer a bit faster.

@caymmitb1

2 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 Yes thats what i meant! Thank you very much for your answer, ill go that route when im done with the tetenal. I recently got myself two rolls of supreme but seeing that I will probably sell most of one to a darkroom acquaintance and that I intend to use at least 200 sheets for contact prints I might find myself needing more paper sometime this year. I am also curious about the fancy fuji (maxima), i might try to comment here again when im ready for more paper, as joining for roll ordering seems to be the way to go (and being in austria im not so far away i imagine). Best regards!

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

@@caymmitb1 sounds good! I'd love to try the maxima as well, but I probably won't as it only comes in large rolls - too large for my taste. I prefer 30.5cm rolls and maxima doesn't come in that size.

Hey! Amazing video! Super helpful! I still have some questions though, You mentioned that you’re using the Fuji MP90 developer, but I can’t seem to find it online (in order to purchase). It would be super helpful if you can point me in the right direction: the full set of chemistry that you’re using (links to where to buy them) and instructions on how to mix them, replenishing instructions and basically a dummy prof step by step guide of the exact steps so I could recreate your process Thank you for spending the time in making this video! I really appreciate it!

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Hello Copy & Baste, many thanks for your compliment! I understand your question, but it's a tricky one to answer, mostly because what chemistry is available to you depends a lot on your location and also on current market conditions. However, the good news is that it likely isn't very critical. Whether you use Fuji MP90 or MP160 or any of the other Fuji MP series (MP108, MP73, MP60 etc), doesn't really matter - and actually, it will also work quite the same if you use Kodak, Champion or whatever other RA4 chemistry you can get your hands on. If you're really determined to use the exact same kind of chemistry I do, I think your best bet is to keep an eye on eBay. There are a few sellers who sell the Fuji chemistry and you can verify which is which by looking (or asking) for the Fuji catalog numbers. The developer I used in this video is the MP90 developer which currently seems to have catalog number 995472 (or sometimes called XC 995472). I'm not sure if it's still being made; the current Fuji Catalog doesn't mention it, so I would suggest switching to one of the other developers (MP60/73/108/160). For the Bleach-Fix, the same story applies: any RA4 bleach-fix will do fine. You can even use differents brand of developer and bleach fix in the same process, so e.g. Kodak developer and Fuji bleach-fix will work just fine alongside each other. For the Fuji chemistry, the current product catalog seems to be here: www.fujifilm.eu/fileadmin/content/content/photofinishing/Phototerminals/download/Uptodate_documents_10-2020/PL_RA4_Minilab_E01_09-20.pdf And all mixing, measurement and conditioning information can be obtained from this document: www.fujifilm.eu/fileadmin/countries/europe/products/Photo_Imaging/Chemicals/Photochemicals_RA4/TB_RA4_E17_09-13.pdf (this also explains the difference between the various products). For the MP-series developers, the dilution is always 1+4, so one part developer concentrate and add 4 parts water (see pages 18-19 from the Fuji Process RA4 document; second link). Notice that Fuji gives instructions to mix replenisher and 'tank' solutions - the latter is intended for setting up a fresh batch of chemistry before replenishment is commenced, and it includes a starter and has a lower dilution than the replenisher. I always just mix the replenisher (no starter) and season the initial batch of developer by running some paper through it. If you want to do it by the book, also buy the starter liquid and mix the 'tank' solution. For the bleach-fix, Fuji mentions various dilutions depending on the specific product used, but in my experience it isn't critical in the least. In fact, I never really measure it and just add a dash of concentrate then I intuitively feel like it may be a good idea. So I'm afraid this isn't the detailed recipe you were asking for, and the primary reasons for this are that (1) it's not as critical as some people make you believe it is (but this may get me into trouble ;)...) and (2) there is quite a wide range of products available and what you use depends on what you can get your hands on, and then study the technical documents/guidelines for the product you chose to get the right information on things like dilution etc. If you're looking for something that comes as close as possible to a detailed guideline, I'd suggest looking into Kodak Flexicolor RA4 RT ('Roller Transport') chemistry and then gleaning as much information as you can from for example threads on Photrio from people who use this; here's a good start: www.photrio.com/forum/threads/list-of-color-chemicals-and-where-to-get-them.79069 (lots of information here!) So long story short, I don't recommend trying to get your hands in the *exact* kind of chemistry that I used in this video. In fact, I wouldn't even try this myself. Instead, look for what RA4 developer and BLIX/Bleach-Fix you can obtain easily and at reasonable cost where you are located, and then work from there. If you have any additional questions, please let me know!

@copybaste2637

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 wow! I’m speechless. Thank you for the super detailed response! I guess there’s no replacement to experimentation and trial & error, but since there are so many variables I’m a little intimidated/overwhelmed. I just backed the Kickstarter campaign for the new intrepid enlarger (that’s also using LEDs) and I’m trying to learn as much as I can before it gets here. I think I’ll start with B&W prints and once I feel comfortable with that I’ll work my way to colour. Thank you again! You may be hearing from me again when I start experimenting! :) (Is there a better way to reach out to you other than these comments?)

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

@@copybaste2637 I'm interested to hear about your experiences with the Intrepid light source; I came across it before you posted your comment as well and it looked like a very convenient way to step into color enlarging, albeit with the drawback of having to use a camera as an enlarger, which seems a bit cumbersome to me. Although perhaps it's actually possible to fit their light source onto a regular enlarger and thereby circumvent the inherent limitations of a large format camera in an enlarger role. As to reaching out to me: I try to keep an eye on KZread comments, so that's a relatively easy way to get in touch with me. In case a discussion evolves that really necessitates another mode of communication, we can always switch over to another channel. You could also register on the photrio.com forums and send me a personal message there; it's not necessarily quicker than KZread, but photrio has the obvious benefit of being the virtual home to lots more people with knowledge of photography, so you could more easily tap into that resource as well. I'd recommend it!

@copybaste2637

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 Hey! I was referring to the new Intrepid colour enlarger, that should become available around September, and not the existing large format B&W enlarger. But as soon as I get my hands on it I will message you with my experience and thoughts! I’m actually thinking of experimenting with arduino (a small electrical controller board). I’m thinking to connect the controller to a temperature sensor and heating pads which I will attach to a development tray and see if I can keep the temperature steady that way. I wonder how come there’s no heated development tray available on the market... Also, do you know of a scientific way of determining if a chemical (developer/fixer, etc) has been exhausted? I’m trying to figure out what other types of sensors I can hook up to the controller (such as a PH sensor and the like) to be able to monitor specific attributes of the chemicals so I won’t need to guess if they are still good or not?

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

@@copybaste2637 Yes, I know the product you're referring to. It's essentially a monorail camera mounted on a tripod, so essentially more a camera than a proper enlarger. Try and get your film plane and baseboard (which essentially isn't present in the kit) parallel - good luck with that! It's nice that it can be disassembled and stored efficiently, but it's just not really a proper enlarger IMO. Still, I'm sure it'll work OK. Concerning your arduino-controlled development tray (I'm familiar with Arduino and in fact my current enlarger uses a Nano as its CPU, although the next version will depart from this approach): yes, that will work fine. It's not very difficult to do. Getting absolutely perfect temperature stability may be difficult, but it will also not be crucial I think. A temperature variation of a degree or so is most likely going to be entirely acceptable. You might want to do some napkin calculations to determine how much heating power you need for a given tray size and liquid volume. Why is there no heated tray on the market? Probably because anyone who buys something like this off the shelf simply grabs a Jobo rotary processor. It does the same thing AND adds automated agitation and (depending on the model) automated fill & drain. But a simple temperature-controlled tray is perfectly feasible and might be useful. Personally I get good results at room temperature so I don't see the need for this, but if you want to cut development time by 50% and/or really want to stick to official RA4 processing parameters, it's a good approach. About determining chemical activity through some kind of automated analysis: alas, there's no shortcut here. Yes, it will be feasible to automate your pH measurements, but those only tell a tiny part of the story and I doubt if it's worthwhile to automate the process of sticking an off-the shelf $20 pH meter into your tray once in a while. Issues such as oxidation and actual developer activity, let alone its ability to reach consistent color balance, are simply not feasible to measure in a DIY fashion. In principle anything can be done, but this one 99% certain isn't going to be worthwhile to pursue. Note that high-volume labs also don't do this; they simply stick by the replenishment rates prescribed by the chemicals manufacturer combined with regular processing of control strips (e.g. at the beginning of each working day).

Hey that was very well explained! I’d love to see how you go about mixing your chemistry, since your not buying the off the shelf ra-4 kits $$$

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Well, the Fuji chemistry I use is actually off the shelf; it's just not the small consumer-targeted amounts sold by regular shops. So mixing is straightforward and in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications. I use the developer without starter, but instead run some paper through a fresh batch of developer to season it. But I virtually never make a fresh batch; instead I simply replenish my working stock. My present working solution has been in use (with frequent replenishment) for 2 years or so.

@alexinnewwest1860

2 жыл бұрын

Ah thanks so much! Do you know what this fuji kit is called or have a photo? I’m fairly new to ra-4 and have only used the off shelf tetinal kits. How do you replenish a developing solution and how do you know when to add to it plus how to check it Thanks again

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

@@alexinnewwest1860 I don't have a photo at hand, but it's just generic minilab RA4 chemistry from Fuji. I think they sell it under the 'Enviroprint' name mostly these days. There are several variants; I think I'm using MP160 but it could also be MP90. Consult the FujiFilm website for current products: www.fujifilm.com/us/en/business/photofinishing/photographic-chemicals/ra-4 I think catalog number 600006061 is currently the most sensible choice for the home user. Mixing instructions also available through the Fuji website: asset.fujifilm.com/master/americas/files/2020-02/461c7d5f54febef296373ae9b79e5c54/600006061.pdf Replenishment rates are also indicated, but I tend to err on the side of safety with this and replenish more than indicated by Fuji. Having a decent pH meter at hand is also a good idea especially as your chemistry ages, as it may drift in pH.

@alexinnewwest1860

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks again for your help. I’ll look into that. Hopefully here in Canada Fuji is friendly about selling to the public. How do you like Kodak paper? That metallic paper sounds interesting Alex

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

@@alexinnewwest1860 Oh, there's no chance at all you'll get a response from Fuji. Your best bet is to try a retailer that sells to consumers. Btw, you're by no means limited to Fuji chemistry. If in Canada for instance Champion chemistry is easier to get, give it a try. As to Kodak paper: I love it! The only major problem I have with it is that it's currently so difficult to get here in Europe...I have not tried the metallic, but I very much liked the regular Endura. Very nice and saturated colors. I'd also very much like to try Fuji's Maxima paper, but sadly it only comes in somewhat larger rolls, while I prefer to print small.

Hey ! this video it is so educative ! Thank you :) Do you have the file of your RGB and GREY density ? Im interested to print them for my darkroom

@koraks9939

4 ай бұрын

Hi Thomas, thanks so much for your comment! Hah, to my own surprise, I actually do still have that file! I've put it up for download on my website: tinker.koraks.nl/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/Color-calibration-chart-120114-scaled.jpg If the link doesn't work, just go over to my blog at tinker.koraks.nl and fill in the contact form, and I'll send you the file in response.

@ThomasTessierStudio

4 ай бұрын

The link work ! Thank you so much ! Have great week end :) @@koraks9939

Thank you for this, really great video and HELPFUL! Your comments re paper are very interesting to me. I have found the same thing with Fuji paper, seems thin and blacks not ideal. I’m going to get some rolls. Do the rolls come with a black plastic cover like the sheets? How do you manage to put the roll on the rod and then light seal? Thank you 🙏🏼

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! The rolls come in a different packaging than cut sheets. Rolls come in a box, inside the box is a bag of heavy brown paper lined on the inside with a matte black polymer. If you're careful you can maintain the integrity of the bag and store a roll you've already partially used in it. For storage of a roll between cutting sessions I generally make a box with a tight fitting lid out of scrap carboard that's easy to open and close in the dark. I store the roll inside the original bag, inside the DIY box. Putting the roll onto the spindle/rod is just a matter of being accustomed to working in the dark. Just set up your stuff on a table with plenty of room to move about and practice once or twice with the lights on. From there it's a matter of fumbling your way through it, but it becomes easier after a few times.

@xpost92

2 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 excellent thank you. I’ve ordered some rolls. I’ll do exactly that. I’ll cut the sheets and store in the same bags and boxes the cut sheets come in. I cut 100 sheets and put the rest away

@xpost92

2 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 I just cut my fist roll. Was so hard. Kodak endura is allot better than CA ii. It’s very contrasty and deep blacks. I wonder if there is a paper for skin tones?? Something a little less saturated?

@koraks9939

2 жыл бұрын

@@xpost92 I'm not aware of any less saturated papers than crystal Archive. You'd have to fix the 'problem' elsewhere, particularly in choice of film and how you light your subject. Great to hear you got it to work though!

@xpost92

2 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 yeah seems that way. Only one kind of paper. Fuji CA cut sheets are absolutely less saturated than endura but they aren’t much good

For how long can you keep replenishing the developer and blix, do they ever become oversaturated with paper residues? Are the replenishers purchased from Fuji or you concoct your own mix? Also I cannot find anywhere where I can buy Fuji paper and chemistry here in Toronto.

@koraks9939

Жыл бұрын

I have yet to find out how long replenishment can continue, as I'm still working with the same solutions as back when I made that video! So they're now >3 years old. I replenish with the Fuji replenishers I also mixed the initial volumes with. DIY RA4 chemistry is technically possible, but economically not attractive and I doubt you'll ever get the quality of the factory product, especially for the developer. As to sourcing paper and chemistry: this is a major headache for many small-volume users, all around the world. Essentially everyone I talk to about color printing brings this up. Since I'm located in Europe, I wouldn't know where to look in Toronto...but I suspect that for instance Champion chemistry might be easier to get hold of than Fuji over there, and I wouldn't hesitate to give that a try. As to paper, you could try contacting digital print service providers that use RA4 products, since they're essentially using the same stuff we do. Some of them may be willing to order an extra roll of paper for you, or share names of distributors or retailers with you. Most of us rely on this kind of informal networking to source our materials.

@constantinf.5764

Жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 Thankfully at least it will be always possible to make own B&W materials and chemistry or color carbon and hopefully the digital photo paper process does not stop soon. There is B&H Photo in NYC nearby selling rolls of Fuji paper but the RA4 chemistry cannot be shipped for some reason.

@koraks9939

Жыл бұрын

@@constantinf.5764 Shipping chemistry is sometimes problematic due to H&S rules of the shipping companies. You might want to check on Photrio for sources in Canada for color chemistry; I think it has been discussed there recently as well, but can't recall the specifics.

@constantinf.5764

Жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 yes we're just discussing it there now.

but when i do printing in jobo drum i put 100ml but was told to dump it after a print. so how can u reuse it so much

@koraks9939

8 ай бұрын

Well, there are essentially two ways of using RA4 developer. The first is 'one shot', i.e. use it once and then discard it. This is what you've been doing, and it works really well when using drums, since you only use a little developer every time and the results are always consistent (assuming good temperature control). The other way is to use a much bigger volume of developer and to replenish that in order to keep its level of activity constant. While it is probably difficult to get *perfectly* constant developer activity in a small volume that's used intermittently (ask the people at FUJIFILM!), my experience is that it's plenty good enough to allow for predictable print-to-print consistency. Keep in mind that replenishment is also the way the developer is used in big labs, where the vast majority of this chemistry is used. You might say that the chemistry is actually designed to be used this way, so it's only logical (in my view) to translate this practice to a home lab setting. It's also vastly more efficient; if I were to use 100ml of developer for every print, I'd easily go through several liters of developer in a single session - while the same session and number of prints only requires 100-200ml or replenisher! If you want to experiment with replenishment while using drums, I would recommend the following: * Mix a certain volume (let's say 1 or 2 liters) of working strength developer and store it in a large bottle. Ensure the bottle (preferably glass or PET) is entirely full between sessions and tightly capped so no oxygen can enter it. * When developing a print, take 100ml from this volume, use it in your tank, and then put it back into the large bottle with the rest of the developer. * Once ever 5-10 prints, replenish the developer in the bottle as per the manufacturer's instructions. E.g. FUJIFILM give fairly clear guidelines for how much replenishment is needed for how much paper that's being processed; this generally works out at roughly 100-175ml per square meter of paper developed. This is the way I've always used by RA4 developer, in both trays and a roller processor - and very occasionally drums (but they're not my preferred workflow). When stored properly, used regularly and replenished as needed, the developer will remain in working condition for a very long time, and in principle indefinitely.

Great video. I have a bw durst 805 and like the idea of a LED light for color filtration. Is is difficult to make the color filtration logic board?

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Well, it depends on how you define 'difficult'. If you have a good amount of electronics knowledge, know your way around datasheets of electronic components, are capable of interpreting and drafting (fairly simple) schematics, know the basics of electronics calculus & theory (particularly Ohm's law evidently), know how to code and troubleshoot Arduino code, understand how to build, measure and test a circuit - then it's not necessarily very difficult. But, as you can tell from this list, the challenge is mostly that you need to understand how to integrate knowledge from different domains. It's not really an Ikea-like endeavor in any case...

@mattiashaggstrom2049

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 well that is clearly over my head... Do you know any one who sells something like your controller? I must say that your implementation is awesome. Looks like a Apollo Guidance Computer.

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

@@mattiashaggstrom2049 To be honest, it took me a couple of months to figure it all out as well. Several of the requirements on that list I didn't meet myself, or only very minimally. I learned a lot from that project...Haha, yes, it does look a bit like somethin from the early space age! The only current product in the market I know of is Heiland's LED units: heilandelectronic.de/led_kaltlicht/lang:en They're apparently wonderful - but also somewhat costly. But if you're looking for something 'plug and play', this would be it!

@mattiashaggstrom2049

3 жыл бұрын

What do you think of the idea of using a RGB video light such as Aputure LED MC RGBWW? It is just the right size to fit into the light box of my Durst 805. And the color is controlled with app in the phone...

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

@@mattiashaggstrom2049 It most likely won't work well enough for color, although it might work OK for multigrade B&W. There are three problems with this kind of approach: (1) the spectral peak and purity of the red and the blue leds is usually not a good match for RA4 paper, resulting in insolvable problems with color crossover in prints, (2) the control resolution of the individual channels is likely grossly insufficient for color RA4 printing, meaning that it won't be possible to accurately color balance a print and (3) controlling a light source with an app might sound nice, but in real life when printing RA4 it's a downright nightmare to handle a smartphone with its bright screen while RA4 paper requires total darkness. I'm sorry, there currently seems to be no way to cut corners when it comes to printing color RA4 with leds. Either you have to engineer your own solution from the ground up, or you have to be prepared to invest a fair amount of money into the Heiland system. A third option of course is to see if you can get someone to do this for you as a hobby project, but be warned: it's not an easy task. Most people with sufficient electronics knowledge won't be sufficiently aware of the requirements of RA4 printing, and vice versa.

Hi.. great video. I have some problem with the developer. One day diluted developer gives me red prints. No greens, no blu.. only reddish. I've tried with the cyan maximum filter and no yellow and no magenta. My prints don't change. is it possible? What do you think?

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Flavio, thank you for your comment! The problem you describe is often/usually caused not by the development, but during exposure. Many enlargers such as the Durst types have a switch that allows you to remove the filters from the light path. Without filtration, RA4 prints tend to come out the way you describe: entirely red/magenta with no other colors. Changing filtration doesn't help because the filters aren't in the light path, so it looks like the problem isn't related to filtration, while in reality, it is. So the first thing to check is if your enlarger has this kind of switch/lever and ensure that it is in the correct position.

@flavioserci6046

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 Thank you very much. Filtration was ok because I use the gelatin filters. The strange thing is that when the developer is just mixed I have good prints with the same filtration.

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

@@flavioserci6046 Okay, that makes things a little clearer yet. What's the pH of the developer when it is fresh and after a day? How do you store the developer in the meantime? Do you replenish it, and if so, by how much?

@flavioserci6046

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 I've just found my mistake. I was following a old guide about cibachrome printing..and... It's the opposite technique about filtering!

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

@@flavioserci6046 ah, that explains a lot! Hopefully it all works now!

WHERE DO YOU GET THE PAPER

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

A German seller (I'm in Europe). You could check ebay as well, some sellers also retail through it.

@johnramalhete5365

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 what is the roll paper called

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

@@johnramalhete5365 there are many types, but the paper I used in the video is Fuji Crystal Archive Supreme HD Digital. If you leave out the "supreme hd digital" you get a paper that also works just fine.

@johnramalhete5365

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 Thank you i did not know that you could use a digital paper in the darkroom I will have to rethink everything I know about paper and I will have to try some

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

@@johnramalhete5365 Many papers these days are labeled 'digital', but I have not yet found any reference that they couldn't be used in the darkroom as well/despite this. Also my own experience with the paper I mentioned as well as with Kodak Royal digital suggests that it works just fine. For all I know the main characteristic of 'digital' paper is that they allow for very short exposures (in the millisecond range or perhaps even faster), which is what digital RA4 printing machines tend to do: they 'scan' the paper very rapidly with a laser which exposes individual pixel-sized dots on the paper and as a consequence, the exposure that each site receives is extremely short. Papers had to be re-engineered for this to make them less susceptible to color shifts with extremely short exposures (essentially a form of reciprocity failure). For the longer (several seconds) exposures that we use in the darkroom, it doesn't seem to make a difference. Please note that the above applies to 'digital' RA4 papers. There is of course also a plethora of inkjet and laser printer papers out there, but those obviously don't work in the darkroom as they are not RA4 papers!

me who still has agfa color paper :)

Do you have an Instagram?

@koraks9939

3 жыл бұрын

Hi, and thanks for your earlier compliment! No, I don't have instagram and I rarely post any of my photos online. If I do, it's mostly examples/illustrations. I have nothing against instagram etc, but there's too many other things that I like too... ;)

@LKNL13

3 жыл бұрын

@@koraks9939 No worries! I bought some Kodak paper in rolls so this has helped me with your little contraption roll off and cut so I'm going to build something similar myself! No problem hahah I rarely post online either to be honest, you just seem like a cool honest dude hahah