Very underrated video. This needs much more attention.

@GoEverywhere

2 жыл бұрын

I appreciate that!

I love tricks like this. They really help you save quite some money as you don't have to buy the "real stuff". Please keep up the good work!

@GoEverywhere

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Thats why I do them! I like to see people being able to stretch what they've got available to try new things!

Believe it or not, there was a time when no one had a dichroic colorhead, where you could just dial in the color of your light source for color printing. Home printing did not significantly exist prior to the 1960s, primarily because the color negative printing processes were so terrible that no one wanted to use them. Agfa had one process system used in Europe. Kodak had its different and incompatible system in the US. The rest of the world picked one. Enlargers made from around the mid-60s usually had some sort of slot in the light head to allow insertion of filters, but these were initially intended for use of variable contract filters in B&W printing. As color printing came home, these thin, plastic or gelatin filters were introduced to print color in the same types of filter drawer heads. These filters came in two types. CC filters were for color correction on the camera lens. If physically large enough to cover the film negative, they could be used in printing too. CP filters were for color printing. They were larger, and they were not closely color calibrated like the CC filters, making them cheaper yet adequate for printing. They are also physically tougher to take the handling printing required. Apart from having to shuffle a pack of filters to print color, the additional issue is that they fade with extended use, exposure to bright light. So if you buy these filters to use, try to get them new and unopened, or if opened, pay very little for them. (Pennies, not dollars) Then, some enlarger makers created colorheads which used adjustable color filters built-in. Omega in the US was a leader in this, but those heads also suffered from filter fade over time and were very expensive. In the early 1970s, dichroic color filers came into use. Their unique advantage is that they do not fade. Durst started making these for consumer and higher end enlargers in the early-1970s, and there we are. The under-lens filter holder shown in the video was sold to allow use of filters on enlargers with no filter slot in the light source, but their popularity was that they allowed the use of the smallest filters, which were much less costly than the medium or larger format sized filters required in a filter drawer. The knock on them is that they put the filters under the lens and may degrade the projected image. Tests published at the time showed that this was no problem if the filters were kept clean.

I’ve been doing prints in black and white for a few years now. I bought a color enlarger only to realize it didn’t really work and I couldn’t get parts to fix it. Just bought a set of filter now that I see my trusty D2 can do ra-4. Can’t wait to give it a go. Thanks for all the info!

@GoEverywhere

3 жыл бұрын

Good luck with your new printing adventures :)

Fantastic! Actually I found fresh RA4 kits and paper for minilabs in my city and these are cheap! $15 for 10L developer and $30 for blix. Probably some for starter but some people say you can replace it with pure cooking salt for water softeners solution. Paper comes in long rolls also is not that expensive. Have no money for that due to that cow virus thing but as I'll go through this I just have to try RA4. Also you can use color addition way instead of subtraction. It is easier because you can use RGB leds instead of your normal light source in the enlarger. P.S. I have no idea why this channel has not that much of subscribers. It is for sure a fantastically filmed and edited some great quality content and there are a lot of analog photography enthusiasts nowdays. Probably some KZread algorithm glitches

@GoEverywhere

4 жыл бұрын

Ohh RGB LEDs would be a really cool way to do it! I might have to explore that. Seems like it could be done pretty cheaply! And thanks for the kind words! The channel is growing steadily, I think its just a matter of people have to find it still :) I'll just keep pumping out content and hopefully we'll get somewhere. At least I'm enjoying doing this!

Thanks for the info! Keep up the good work!

@GoEverywhere

4 жыл бұрын

My pleasure! Thanks for stopping by!

I just found your channel and you have already helped me a lot. Great content and presentation. Btw, I lived in Portland and love the city. Looking forward to more content. Have you seen Edward Westons method of printing negatives with just an overhead light bulb ( without an enlarger). I’m thinking I’ll give that a try. Thanks.

@GoEverywhere

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Glad it was useful! I've not seen Weston's specifically though its been mentioned to me that I need to. I've done bare bulb printing pretty regularly, in fact there's a video on my channel about contact printing that way!

Have you ever played with RA4 reversal? Other videos show it being done as a direct exposure in a large format camera. The development process just adds a black & white first developer and re- exposure to the normal RA4 process.

@GoEverywhere

2 жыл бұрын

Sure have. If you check out my video on C41 reversal, the process is exactly the same except you use RA4 color dev instead of C41.

I think you used the cyan filters for Cibachrome or whatever process Kodak used to have for prints from slides.

Thank you! Any advise how to find a daylight tank for a reasonable price?

How do you use that blue beseler meter sitting on the desk?!?

Thanks for the video! I made RA-4 prints but found as main culprit the much higher sensitivity of RA-4 chemicals for oxidation. You mention that prints can be developed with C-41 - how can this be done? What kind of compensation is recommended here regarding Y/M/C channels and temperature to develop/development times? C-41 is a lot more stable than RA-4 from my experience, so this might be a good way forward with C-41.

@GoEverywhere

4 жыл бұрын

I've found that RA-4 oxidizes fairly quick as well, that's why I tried C41. out originally. Like I mentioned in the video it seems to lean a bit more cyan than RA-4. I've found that typically reducing 10-15Y seems to come out fine.

Apart from perhaps Jobo print drums ( hugely overpriced), you probably are not going to find new print drums, or used drums other than on ebay. They are practically indestructible, so used is good (and cheap). Top brands from the past are Unicolor, Beseler. My preference has always been Cibachrome drums because they are so easy to clean and dry for reuse. Note that while you can process smaller prints in drums made to hold a larger size, that's a waste of chemistry. It's best to pick up a drum in each size you will regularly use. I don't think he mentioned chemistry usage. In these drums, you use as much chemistry volume as is required to process one print, then being exhausted, it gets tossed. Of course, there are those who will make themselves crazy trying to reuse such chemistry and be punished for cheapness by suffering color and density variations which cannot to planned for.

What are those thing you slide the filters into before putting them in the holder?

@GoEverywhere

3 жыл бұрын

Just the other bit of the filter holder if its the part I think you mean.

Is there any way to put the filters between the light source and the negative (Perhaps above the negative holder)? When reading up on this it said that if you place it between the source and the negative there's no quality loss because the filter isn't in front of the lens.

@GoEverywhere

2 жыл бұрын

Some enlargers have a slot there for filters for exactly that reason, it'll just depend on your gear.

@rpeters330

2 жыл бұрын

@@GoEverywhere awesome! Thank you so much!!

What about the color analiser Beseler you have near the enlarger??? could you tel me abaout the use?? congratulations from ARGENTINA

@GoEverywhere

3 жыл бұрын

Its just your typical color analyser, you use it to balance color prints. I don't use it as much as I used to since my color head on my enlarger failed. I still print color with filters, but its a lot more work which means I don't do it often. The analyser will tell you what filter settings you need based on the tone of the negative when you project it onto the sensor using your enlarger. It keeps you from having to make so many test prints to get the color balance you want.

@gerardodalchielelueiro6818

3 жыл бұрын

​@@GoEverywhereI am very thankfull