Brilliant, Mat! Really love how it’s worked out.

Damn, now i need to do this

@MaxLamdin

3 жыл бұрын

i'd watch that for sure

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Probably the most fun part to it is the variation of color you can get with a fairly affordable color material.

Super cool! Great to see a great example of this process to accompany Joe and Ethan’s vid!

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks and stay tuned, there's more to come!

That is so cool to watch them turn from B&W negative to colour positive!

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

My favorite part, all the wet plate "wow" but none of the ether.

@timothystark4475

3 жыл бұрын

I was so amazed to see print changed from negative B&W to positive color!

WOW! nice results (i think joe and ethan would be stunned)

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

I have them to thank for getting me pumped about the process. I also really want to see what they've been up to with it!

Really nice, I love this process and I'm glad to see you really got those filters dialed in.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Rodrigo! I'm going to keep experimenting and see if I can get it even closer.

@szadow_

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash I am in the process of calibration the RA4 reversal myself :) Keep up the good work

Cool Matt, here is like " ohh regular RA4 rev. is not enough, let's casually bring the 8x20 big gun out" hahahaha great show as always. I do enjoy your videos, in fact I have decided to make "Film Friday" too. Spending some time on each Friday for creative works with photography. For instance today I developed some 4x5 portraits I took from a newly married couple as their wedding gift while watching your video. Good job

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment and that's really cool that you're out there making LF work weekly! 4x5 portraits are an awesome wedding gift that they'll enjoy for a lifetime. Cheers!

Well is pretty cool. A couple of years ago I was printing e6 slides to ra paper and doing a b/w develope, and a times preflash followed by a ra color development. Mostly because these were the last photos I had of my sister from a family road trip. This really interesting and prompts the idea of doing 16x20 prints of land scape and people this way. I have to watch the tangent though as I've been doing my 35mm wildlife prints at this time.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Brent and I hope you get a chance to make some big prints with the process. It's a lot of fun, even with the hurdles involved.

A good aspect with RA-4 is that the paper is really cheap if you buy a roll of it. For example 50 cm width at 83 meter length. Then you can cut it to sheets.

Really exciting work! About the color correcting, what I‘m thinking about is why not normally C-41 develop a blank neg, and use it as the color-cor filter? Just a hypo 😄

great work Mat!

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Ed, let me know when you want a color positive portrait! It's the least I could do after you let me borrow those brass lenses for an LFF episode!

@EdGately

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash Lets figure something out. I'll be doing some staycation time soon.

Whoa I didn't know the paper sees IR. Well that could open up some interesting opportunities maybe!? Great work Mat! Between you, John (Darkshed), and Ethan, there's some crazycool stuff happening with RA4 reversal and I love it! i just started doing RA4 (from C41) and will probably keep doing that for a while until I'm more comfortable with it. But I'd love to give this direct positive a literal shot with my 4x5 sometime! Kudos for the work you're doing with this!

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Tim! I'm not 100% that IR is what's causing the oddities with close-up flash, but I'm not sure what else could be doing it. I'll have to experiment more with the new filter pack and some IR blocking filters to see it that changes things.

@yvinddahle7714

3 жыл бұрын

Could be your UV filter is tricking you? I have seen this cast in black light

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

@@yvinddahle7714 Good question, I've seen this result with and without the UV filter. More testing required!

One day someone will publish a rock solid formula :)

@MatMarrash

2 жыл бұрын

It may be sooner than we think!

Hey Mat! Great youtube channel! So enjoyable to watch! But still interogation remains to me :) What kind of B&W developer do you use to reveal your paper? And how do you calculate your exposure time? Do you calculate with your posemeter to 3 iso? Thank for answering ! Can wait to discover all of your work!! Antoine from Belgium!!

It's so great! I'll try and if had some interesting results I'll let you know!

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Please do, I love to see what folks are making with this process!

Lovely work, I’m glad more info is available now about this process. What colour dev do you use?

Just watched this for the second time and wondering how's the progress Mat? The colours you have been getting remind me a bit of cross processing. This was something I tried a few years back and really enjoyed some of the results. Unfortunately the film I was getting the best results with, Agfa RSX100, was discontinued and then of course Agfa left the film market. I'll certainly add this process to my list to try in the future.

So cool!

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Karl, it's lots of fun!

Hi Mat! Great job, always nice to see experiments. Out of curiosity, what was the filter factor of the stack of magentas and yellows? ( Well, reaching the end of the video you mention that it is not yet clear )

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the question, as it is right now the filters take about 3 stops of light away from the exposure. Now the test is to see if I can get the same/better color with less/more efficient filtration.

Hi Mat, thanks for the video. It is very informative. Where did you find the pack of Cibachrome filters? I have only seen a few on Ebay, but even that is a bit spotty. Thanks!

@MatMarrash

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Amanda I picked them up from a local antique store, found them with some old enamel darkroom trays. Alternatively, you can use B&W printing filters #0 & #1 stacked together for a similar effect.

you've got it nailed man :)

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Richard!

Hi Mat,Many Thanks for all your hard work on LF Photography! I'm doing some testing with this RA-4 process and walked into this texture issue I find in shadows and darker areas. Its already visible in the first bl/w development. I use Ilford Multigrade 1:9. Any Ideas on this issue? Thanks for your reply!

@MatMarrash

2 жыл бұрын

Hey there, I just posted an update video on the process, I recommend checking it out: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hGh4u8OBqNKdlsY.html Also the "mottling" you're seeing is something I haven't been able to remove completely from the print, though higher temperature processing can reduce it slightly.

Crazy!

This is amazing. One thing to add. Im not sure, if the weird color thing with greens and yellows some of us experience is from the lack of sensitivity to those colors on the paper. It isnt capable of "seeing" around the 600nm wavelength. You can see the spectral sensitivity curves on fujis website data sheet. It can reproduce every color in dye, but there is a huge dip around 600nm . Maybe if the light reflecting from the hoodie was around that, it only saw the longer wavelenghts aka red. not the shorter 600nm yellow greenish ones. Mat could you try to reach out to fuji and get a call with a human working there? maybe a talk could give us more info. And you have an audience and maybe they would react to that instead of a student for example.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Leon, I have just such a rep I can reach out to ! ;)

Congratulations, perseverance pays off at the end. This process can be done without the need of a darkroom by using a drum for the black and white developer. The drum also can save money for the color developer and blix since it requires very little chemicals, 40 to 60 ml for an 8x10. Good job.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Habib! Drum processing is something to look into for those larger sizes!

Apart from those awesome results, I do like your casual use of German “lehnwords” ;)

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Growing up in a rural part of Ohio, I picked up a lot of it from the older generations that come over from "the old country". ;)

@MrEszet

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash That's what I figured. I like! Keep it up, man

I wonder if you took some RA4 out and shot landscapes with that filter pack if you could get some cool color IR shots with red trees...

@MatMarrash

2 жыл бұрын

So far no color IR effects have been achieved with this heavy filter pack. Definitely challenging on a day other than full, direct sunlight.

I've been playing with RA4 reversal for a couple months now using an old (very old) Graflex RB Auto. I've been using sunlight only, no flash. Finding the balance for color has been a challenge since different times of day require different filter stacks. I'm getting closer to reproducible results. The paper doesn't have the latitude you would find in film, so landscapes are a real challenge. When taking portraits, I can usually get folks to stay still long enough for a shot.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing your experiences Chuck! Dynamic range is a big challenge, I've found it's very similar to the new 8x10 Polaroid where you have 3-4 stops to make your exposure work. Natural light is nice in that the exposures involve less blinding flash. ;)

@chuckobrien2726

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash But natural light is a constant moving target. Even metering has turned into a parlor trick. Still, I'm getting pretty nice results more often than not.

There should be an app that can convert a digital custom white balance to 1) nearest lens filter for people who use color correction filters in front of the lens, and 2) CMY values for correcting during paper printing. I suppose with enough fiddling and documenting you could create a spreadsheet to do this.

@MatMarrash

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Ian that's a fantastic idea! In the span of a few years, we've seen dedicated color meters go from $4k to < $2k, it's only a matter of time before accurate color meters make their way to phones (which are already pretty insane!). I can count on a single hand how many phone apps I've ever paid for, but this would be one of them!

Been wanting to try this for a while. I have some RA4 paper and chems sitting in storage ready to go. Only thing I'm going to do different is trying to print slides with my enlarger onto the RA4 and then reversal processing. Seems like it would be easier to standardize around filtration by printing a chrome, compared to shooting directly onto the paper in-camera. Not to mention that completely sidesteps the problems presented by super low paper effective ISO. Won't need to beam the light of thousand suns into my subject's retinas ;) And I can iterate prints and printing filtration with my Dichro head all using the same negative until I get colors I like. Any reason you prefer shooting the paper in-camera compared to just contact printing an 8x10 chrome?

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Andrew and thanks for the comment. From what I've seen from archived forum posts and some YT channels, printing from slides has even harder contrast control requirements than in-camera. Also, chromes can get expensive and this process, all gear included, is cheaper than 8x10 transparency by a factor of 10x!

@andrewbroekhuijsen6770

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash So interesting that it’s supposed to be easier to tame the contrast of actual real life scenes than already-compressed scenes on a slide. Cost factor makes sense. But I’ve already been shooting 4x5 slides anyway. I love the idea of being able to wet print them instead of scanning. So I figure I may as well try printing them instead of cutting down my RA4 paper to 4x5 and digging out my old color correction filters. I’ll let you know how it goes! Hashtag bring back Cibachrome. Great channel, great series. Keep up the awesome work! And don’t let those guys over at FPP ignore LF in favor of movie film and sub-miniature too much ;)

A challenging process but very beautiful results. If someone established a good filter pack, I would'nt be surprised if many tried it. But what is the future for RA4? I am thinking of paper and chemicals. What about color paper negative and contact printing? Is that possible?

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Great point, RA-4 will be available as long as the demand for prints is still strong for digital shooters as well as film shooters. Many large scale commercial labs still use this process for large prints as it's still cheaper than inkjet in sizes beyond 2m wide. Color negative and contact printing with RA-4 is very possible, and now that I've done this, may be easier than this workaround process.

Very cool process, have you worked with Ilford's direct positive paper before?

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

I've only worked with it a little bit, but my darkroom buddy Stephen Takacs has done a lot of work with it. You should check out his work here: stephentakacs.com/

This is one of those things that I enjoy watching but no way I'm going thru that. LOL That has to feel good to finally get there. I love that you went to your 8x20. Are you going to get some 16x20 paper and try it as a whole sheet?

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Michael you read my mind. A big roll of this is the next logical step, time to scale this puppy up!

@MichaelWellman1955

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash Can't wait for that video to come out.

Thanks for this great video, Mat! I've been experimenting with this process for a year now and have a question regarding replenishment of the RA developer and Blix. Are you replenishing each time you develop a print? In your videos, it appears that you put 4-5 prints in the tray without replenishment and they always come out great. What is your process for replenishment and storage of your chemistry? I'm on a tight budget! Thanks in advance!

@MatMarrash

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Scott, replinishment all depends on the type of RA-4 chemicals you're using. I'm using mini-lab ready Ektacolor RA which uses a starter and stock mix. I don't replenish it and instead mix up a new solution about every 20 - 8x10" prints. Blix lasts a long, long time and I only stop use (and collect for disposal) once it builds up too much "silt" and begins to separate.

@scottwittenburg253

2 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash I see. I'm using Arista RA-4 chemicals and it suggests a 15ml per 8x10 replenishment rate but it doesn't seem to do much good. I may try just using the stock and see how far it goes as well. Thanks so much for your reply!

Part of the trouble is the filter packs. They change values significantly over time. You need to get a transmission densitometer and read what the current value of each filter is and make a note. Better yet stack up what you think you want and measure through the entire stack. Dont forget to subtract out the ND component from the reading.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thank goodness I've still got that old densitometer. Thanks for the tip!

Did you try using a sheet of 4x5 color negative bleached and fixed as a filter? I'm guessing base fog of color negative may get you closer since that's what the paper is designed for. Probably with a combination of the cibachrome filters

@MatMarrash

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Ammar, a fixed-out negative is barely half-way to the right filter pack, with far less control than one would think. Stay tuned for the update.

One word Sunglasses 😎

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

If my retinas aren't burning, is it really large format? ;)

Handle: found. Now you just need to get it attached. I seem to recall Joe and Ethan using a 00 and 5 multigrade filters and getting decent results in daylight, at least late in the day (when the light is redder than midday). The garment color shifts might be related to dyes and brighteners fluorescing in the UV emission from the flash, or the sensitivity valley in the paper emulsion (where the green and red curves cross, around 590 nm, a sort of amber color) -- or likely some combination of the two.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Wow looking at the datasheet for Fuji Crystal Archive, it's crazy how much more sensitive those papers are to blue and green, but then there's that gap as green trails off into red. Thanks for bringing that to my attention!

@SilntObsvr

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash That gap at the green-red crossover is also where you can use a low pressure sodium lamp or suitable LED as a safelight in a color printing darkroom. It still has to be pretty dim, but it's enough to find the trays after exposure, or cut paper to size.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

@@SilntObsvr that's really good to know! Found out while fumbling around with 8x20 in the dark that glow tape is "safe" enough during loading RA-4.

If I were testing this on myself, I probably would have put sunglasses on after the second or third photo. haha

@MatMarrash

Жыл бұрын

Welding glasses are a great idea when setting up a portrait studio with all those watt-seconds!

If it has sensitivity in the IR spectrum, and it develops as a positive, does that mean with some filters you could achieve an aerochrome look?

I wonder if that 95M and 135Y filtration would work for printing from color slides in a color enlarger, with the RA-4 reversal process ? I'd love to make RA-4 reversal prints from Ektachrome, but a starting point would really help to not waste too much paper.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Color printing always takes more paper than B&W IMO, but I think starting there would get you in the ballpark.

@Ryan-lu9km

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash I mean, since it's the same as shooting the paper in a camera (slides produce a daylight balanced color image), it should work the same way, right ?

Perhaps, as a suggestion, use a McBeth Color Chart, for evaluation of color. It's more absolute. Coming from a person who is educated in photography and wanting to investigate analogue at he age of 63:)

that's great! In the 1st development process (black and white), is it for film or for paper?

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

That's a paper developer I'm using. Ilford Multigrade and Dektol work well for this.

@erwahnehrlich998

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash and the first development is done in total darkness or in inactinic light ?

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

@@erwahnehrlich998 Total darkness, no safelights used during first development.

I'm only just getting started researching photography and what I'd like to do and/or get out of it (and this is exactly what I was looking for), so excuse me if this sounds ignorant. But I can't help but think that if paper was designed to be exposed through film, why not use actual film for a filter by developing a piece of unexposed sheet? Or maybe one could expose the film thru filter colors needed for specific situations or needs? I could see that getting complex tho.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Patrick it's tricky but fun! Long, long story short an unexposed sheet isn't nearly enough filtration but a starting point.

ive been messing with this process a bit as well! my problem is space ... its just hard to fit everything i need in my bathroom lol. also, cutting 8x10 paper into 4x5 has been a bit challenging as well 😅

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Well obviously the answer is to get an 8x10! ;)

@szadow_

3 жыл бұрын

For testing I've cut the paper to medium format size and shot it on Mamiya M645, when I'll dial the MY components I'll go bigger

@ribsy

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash you are a bad bad man! 😅😂🤟🏽

I know photographic emulsions never record all colors exactly as they are. There are even some plants that are impossible to photograph correctly with film. Maybe Lauren's sweater falls into the same category for this paper. You might be able to check it out using a digital camera that has no IR filter as a simple comparison.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

That's an interesting point Francois. There has been some speculation in the comments that it could be due to a sensitivity deficit of the color emulsion. The only thing that makes me think it's IR is that I've done some tests wearing a black shirt and all of them the shirt comes out a shade of red. Thanks for the comment!

@Francois_L_7933

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash You're probably right for the black shirt. But in the end, it's probably a combination of all of the above. When you use something in a way it was never intended you're bound to get some surprises.

what mask are you using to block out the fumes? dose it work good?

@MatMarrash

Жыл бұрын

Hey there and thanks for the question, in a poorly ventilated area (no large suction fan or fume hood), I'd recommend a respirator with cartridges for OV (organic vapor).

Several questions: 1. Does it appear to matter what order you put the filters in? 2. How many stops do you lose with all that correction? 3. Have you considered using gel filters on the lights instead of the camera to get some of the correction in the lighting? For example, maybe put the magenta correction on the lights, but the yellow on the camera. That would likely mean you would need less light and things wouldn't be so blinding.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Michael all great questions! I've not noticed a difference in order of filters, but I suspect their thickness makes a difference. Back in January I experimented with gelled lights and the results were still lacking a lacking a lot of yellow even with multiple red and cto filters. All in all, about three stops are being lost to filtration, but your mileage may vary.

@MichaelPhillipsatGreyOwlStudio

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash Thanks. A very cool project. Thank you for your answers.

Hi Mat at what temperatures are your chemicals at? Thanks

@MatMarrash

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Liam thanks for the question! I'm doing everything at room temp, and also check out the newer stuff on the channel as there have been some recent updates!

Where can you find that filter set for the shutter?

@MatMarrash

Жыл бұрын

Hey Tyler, any color printing filter set should do the trick. I'm using an old Cibachrome printing filter pack, but RA-4 printing filters will work even better!

On Facebook there is a person called Zhou Pierre who seems really advanced in this proces, but unfortunately he does not share his process/recepy

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mariette, been following his progress for quite some time. Amazing to see what others are doing with the process. Cheers!

may be a stupid question, but why not just develop an unexposed sheet of C41 film and use the blank colour base as your filter? would give you the correct filtration for daylight wouldn't it?

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Max, a fixed color negative is a good starting point, but still needs more yellow and magenta. Eventually I'm going to compare this filter pack with a color meter to find the smallest amount of filters that will yield a similar result. Thanks for the comment.

@olafwDE

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash What if (only) the flashing light during color development needs controlled conditions, i.e. filtering, not the exposure?

hi, what's the iso after you use the color filters balance? thanks

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Papers will vary from emulsion to emulsion, so the best I can provide is the filter pack takes away three stops of light.

太棒了，但是我买不到同样的滤色片

I hear you about the flash, I had a cat that I would take her picture daily with a Polaroid and she hated the flash ... had to trick her to get a shot!!!!

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Brian you have just described my greyhound, she's basically a 50lb. cat!

I know this kind of defeats the point but technically if you have them you won’t have to reinvest in them ever again. If you threw in a unexposed but developed c41 8x10 negative in front of the ra4 sheet in the negative holder? Would that help keep the color consistent adding the film base color.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Anthony thanks for the comment! This doesn't defeat the point, as I have used a blank sheet of 8x10 C41 and found the results to still need heavier filtration. I haven't tried placing the negative near the loaded paper since any dust, dirt, or scratches on the film will show up sharper on the positive. This is one thing I like about having a community of other photographers to talk to about this, we're all sharing and learning!

@hellothisiskyle

3 жыл бұрын

Came here to ask the same thing. It seems like in theory it would work.

At one time I came across that most photo paper was about 100 iso, not sure if fact.

Hi Matt, for some reason my RA photos are suddenly coming out a brownish orange with very little additional color. I've used the same filtration and exposure settings I've used for prints that turned out blue with more color, but now I can't even achieve that. Do you have any idea what has gone wrong? Thanks in advance!

@MatMarrash

2 жыл бұрын

RA-4 color developer is very easily contaminated, it sounds like some blix and/or stop bath has made its way into the developer. Recommended you toss out the current developer and mix fresh with distilled water and keep cling wrap or a lid on it until needed in processing.

@scottwittenburg253

2 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash I will do that, thanks!

Muy bien yo me pregunto si existe algún filtro solo sin ser un sándwich .? Otra cosas ten en cuenta que 70M+ 40Y= 30M .eso hará que tú sándwich sea menos grueso y conseguirás más iSo de exposición

Hi Mat, Maybe a dumb question but how about exposing paper and make a contact print on a second paper of the prior negative? As Brendan Barry does with black and white here? kzread.info/dash/bejne/qW181dCTYJC8aNo.html (minute 6:40) Would that be an option? Thank you for your videos

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment Christian! I think that should work, Brendan is a smart dude and lightyears ahead of me in terms of darkroom process. The only issue with the materials I'm using is that many color papers, including the ones I'm using, have back-print. This means any contacts would have a Fuji or Kodak watermark all over them. Papers without this print are more expensive, but would make that method easier.

Have You compared Glossy and Lustre paper?

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the question! I've been using both and I think glossy yields a much sharper image.

@szadow_

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash thats what I thought. I've always found Fujiroids Type 100 sharper in glossy than matte ;)

As this workflow delivers unique, one-off results, I'm absolutely stoked. Transferring this to ULF might be the second-best color equivalent to wet plate. It's about as fast as the Polaroid options that are available right now. Too bad that results are mirrored as well. I've also watched Joe's and Ethan's videos (again), the struggles with color balance look similar, i.e. orange-ish filters are supposed to compensate for it. Some thoughts: 1) Would it be worth to try out a clear, developed color negative sheet as a filter? It should provide the exact -color- wavelength properties you're aiming for (?) If so, it might take some guesswork out of the experiment. With the same properties of the carrier material that RA-4 paper emulsion is calibrated towards in combination with RA-4 developer, I would assume UV-wise improvement as well. 2) Possibly critical: the thicker such a negative sheet is, the softer the print. On the other hand, probably a decent amount of quality got also lost due to the stack of multiple cibachrome filter gels. 3) Pre-flashing the "filter negatives" just a tad over base sensitivity in typical lighting conditions (studio flash, incadescent, overcast outdoors, bright sunlight, alpine scenery with heavy UV) coud further help with calibrating results. 4) I would have chosen an optical, glass UV filter instead of yet another gelatine sheet 5) It looks at 11:58 as if you haven't tempered your color baths - if so: A meticulous control over these temperatures will eliminate another point of failure. Otherwise it could even result in color shifting, if e.g. the delta between color developer and blix is too big. I haven't tried this before, it's just my approach how I would set up further steps of this experimental project, based on some background I acquired during my years in reproduction labs. I wish I had immediate access to a darkroom, my sleep would probably suffer tonight xD ... Please let me know what you think, Mat. Is it viable? PS: The split ULF of Strudel killed me! 😆

@olafwDE

3 жыл бұрын

Hours later, still trying to wrap my head around that thing: ... With No. 3) I actually meant an exposure to diffused light just a tad over the amount of light that it takes the film to render minimal density. 6) Hey, I'm wondering: what if there's no need for filtering at all during exposure, and instead filter the light source which flashes the paper after b&w development by a developed C-41 negative filter? This could possibly address the issue with her sweater which you had assigned to UV-fooling dye. My idea is that filtering the flashing light source during development could prevent specific colors from flipping while others seem not to be affected. The b&w negative mask is already there at this point, covering the color particles during flashing just by the proportional amount that is actually needed.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Olaf and thanks for the questions. Many of them I unfortunately don't have concrete answers to, but here goes: - C41 film base is a possible start of a filter pack, but already tested and not a one-and-done solution. Could help minimize filter thickness - Glass filters are pricey but probably work well; Wratten #'s don't 100% translate to CYM filtration AFAIK. -pre-flashing is something I haven't tried yet but could help, one BIG note about this is RA-4 papers are recommended to process within several hours as they don't hold a latent image as long as thicker films. - I've tried different types of light sources for exposure after B&W development, and there doesn't seem to be any difference; may need to reexamine this with an RGBWW LED source. - Ethan and Joe did some of the heavy lifting for me on temperature of processing chemicals, room temp ~20C works fine since the process is done to completion. Thanks again for the very detailed comment!

@olafwDE

3 жыл бұрын

@@MatMarrash Thank you so much for the detailed answer, it helps to add more factors to the experiment. As soon as I have access to a darkroom and the respective materials again (move outta my way, virus, dang it, lol) I'm going to test and document it, will also provide results via largeformatquestions.

Do you remember the episode of the original Star Trek series where a transporter malfunction sent some of Our Heros to an alternative universe where the good guys had become the bad guys and Evil Spock had a beard? Do you remember that, Matt? Stay out of the transporter, Matt.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

I had a huge laugh at this, thanks Michael! :) Lauren agrees with you about the beard!

Hello Friends, i got in touch with Kolari vision, the company that produces the IR Chrome Filter ( Aerochrome on full spectrum converted digital cameras ) And they would be up to create a special Filter for the ra4 Process. Now my question: The Ra4 Process is quite sensitive to everything: So i wanted you to ask all of you guys for your experience. I would love to dedicate a lot of my time in testing and creating the perfect filtration for the Process. But because papers are so different and developers too, i would love to hear what your idea would be as a good starter kit for doing this process. I would like to set the paper stock, the temperature where everything gets developed, the developers and so on. Im planning on publishing everything i notice on the way and share my experience. I want to create a cheap way to create ULF sized color photos. So please share your experiences with me. Which paper has the highest latitude( i know all of them are very contrasty) Which bw devlopers are easily affordable and good for developing huge pieces of paper etc. Thank you for your time.

@MatMarrash

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Leon thanks for the update! I haven't tested a large variety of papers, but in my experience the Kodak Endura commercial papers have more latitude (2-3 stops) and less development mottling than Fuji CA papers. I would recommend buying bulk Kodak Endura roll media and chemicals for best price economy. All processing temps and time are 20C and do not require special treatment. For B&W developer, you can mix up your own paper developer for pennies, raw components available from ArtCraft Chemicals. Currently using Ansco 120 (similar to Dektol).

I don't want to play the smartass here, but couldn't you take a picture of a greycard and measure the colors with a spectrometer to determine the necessary correction?

@davefaulkner6302

Жыл бұрын

Actually this is a good idea but with color you would want a white card, since white is supposed to reflect each color equally (I assume -- maybe it's only equal WRT the eye's spectral sensitivity). Anyway it makes sense to start with a constant color surface rather than skin tones, which can vary wildly and are very sensitive to light changes. Having said this I realize that the experience of looking at a photo is ultimately subjective...but the method you suggest is more scientific and may give quicker results.

What’s the ISO for the paper?

@MatMarrash

2 жыл бұрын

Pre-filtration the ISO is 6-8

I'm no expert but ... Doesn't developing at room temperature mess with the colour balance as well? My understanding is RA4 dev should be almost exactly 35C. The different dye couplers will behave differently depending on the temperature and have been tuned to align at 35C. Even if you get your filter pack right for today's ambient if it varies tomorrow you colours could shift. I'm not a photochemist though. I've only done cibachrome about 30 years ago. It may all turn out very reliable.

Check out Brendan Barry instagram.com/brendanbarryphoto?igshid=oo7sun1t06cn He's going mural sized ra4 reversal with still lives and improvised camera obscura rooms, it's beautiful work

Hmmmm......is it just me but you start to look like Noah😂😂😂😂😂😂😂