Thank you for this, very informatiive

@WorkshopRebuild

6 ай бұрын

I'm glad I could share this with you! Thanks for comment, JD! Regards Andreas

Excellent tutorial clear and to the point, I am enjoying this series thanks and looking forward to seeing your bike when it is all completed

@WorkshopRebuild

Жыл бұрын

Thank you very much for tuning in and leaving a positive comment! The first half of the series is based on the disassembly of this bike and in the upcoming weeks I will focus on the assembly process. My next upload will be about the front end assembly (forks & handlebar). Regards Andreas

Extremely helpful. thank you

@WorkshopRebuild

10 ай бұрын

Thank you for your feedback. I hope it works out for you if you want to tackle this repair yourself. Regards Andreas

These tutorials you put together are crazy good. It looks like you're getting closer to an engine rebuild and I cannot wait to see how it turns out. Keep them coming 👍

@WorkshopRebuild

Жыл бұрын

Hey Matthew, thanks a lot! Yes, I am getting closer to an engine rebuild. Some things still need to be addressed, but ai‘m making progress as always😎

@allanmorgan7022

Жыл бұрын

@@WorkshopRebuild I am looking forward to it.

Thank you!!!

@WorkshopRebuild

25 күн бұрын

You're very welcome! Regards Andreas

I like the way you made this tutorial. I feel know confident in changing the main bearing when i will have to do it on my R60/7 !

@WorkshopRebuild

Жыл бұрын

Hi Guillaume! Thank you for your positive comment. If you have the correct tools, it's not that hard. You just want to take your time drilling all holes and making sure you achieve the correct depth with your reamer. Another tip: Before purchasing your main bearings, make sure you order the correct size. There are 4 different size options. Red is the original main bearing size (60mm). I hope this helps. Regards Andreas

Great work, thanks. I’m sure it will be useful in my R75/5 build.

@WorkshopRebuild

Жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot, Thomas! I'm glad you found this video helpful and I hope you get your R 75/5 running again with brand-new components. Regards Andreas

Wow. The detail of the tools is amazing. 3.99 mm not 4 mm.

@WorkshopRebuild

Жыл бұрын

It‘s more common as an imperial drill (0.157“), but since this engine is metric I went ahead and wrote 3.99mm! This drill is used so it does not harm the 4mm bore that is already to size within the bearing retainer. Luckily everything went according to plan and now I‘m one step closer to the full engine rebuild. 😃

Great video, with very clear steps. I just wanted to confirm a few things though.. when you mentioned the mating point of the bearing where the male and female meet, and the top dead center of the bearing housing, did you mean that the mating point goes at tdc of the housing or that it should go at the 26 degree point. That wasn't too clear to me. Thanks

@WorkshopRebuild

7 күн бұрын

Thank you for your comment! To be clear: The mating point of the bearing is placed 26° before TDC. I hope this helps with your own repairs😃👍🏼 Regards Andreas

@JinanNLipdo

6 күн бұрын

@@WorkshopRebuild thanks, that makes things much clearer. Is there any work that needs to be done on the other main bearing, or is that one plug and play?

@WorkshopRebuild

6 күн бұрын

@JinanNLipdo I’m glad I could clarify that for you. The rear main bearing is held on the outside diameter only. It is very important to use proper tooling to install it though. The aluminum housing must be heated and the bearing cooled, to overcome the press-fit. Check out this video for more ideas how I install it (minute 02:13): kzread.info/dash/bejne/e2RprJl9eNKoXbQ.htmlsi=lTGM_RUOZiL8Yw38 Cheers

To keep the location pin on its place you tab the perimeter? Correct? Thanks great video again, Bob Belgium

@WorkshopRebuild

Жыл бұрын

That is correct! From factory they had a special punch that crimped all sides of the aluminum over the locating pin. To make sure the pin is secured well I also added a small amount of blue (medium) strength adhesive. I am sure this will not move and come out again. I hope this will help you, if you ever do this to your own bike. Regards Andreas

@ethanhudson5439

6 ай бұрын

@@WorkshopRebuildexcellent work. Alternatively I have heard others tap the carrier and lock tight in a set screw. There has been many pins that have fallen out on later airheads

on my old bearing there was also a bottom right hole for the oil to go through that's not open by a centre slot on the new bearing should I leave that one the left side is good its covered by a slot???

@WorkshopRebuild

9 ай бұрын

This is a very interesting find! Are you working on a /5 model too or possibly a new airhead engine? If you have the same main bearing assembly as the one in this video, you should have: -an oil passageway perfectly vertical on the bottom half of the main bearing (this is your oil supply) -two additional bores 120degrees offset from the bottom bore (the oil will transfer through these bores to your cylinders and cylinder heads) In total, you will have 3 oil passageways through your main bearing retainer and main bearing. The dowel pin will also have its spot, but the pin will not allow oil to pass through, therefore it is not an oil passageway. If you have a picture of your main bearing I would like to see what it looks like and that way I can help you out a little bit better. You can send me an email or reach out to me via Instagram. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas

Hi. Do you know if this video also applies to a 1980 r100? Looks the same in the clymer manual but easier to follow so just wanted to make sure.

@WorkshopRebuild

8 ай бұрын

That's a great question and unfortunately I cannot give you a correct answer. I know this main bearing assembly applies to all BMW /5 models (R50, R60 and R75). I have never worked on an R100/7 engine yet...but I might be doing that very soon. If I have any news, I will let you know. Regards Andreas

Why do you make a screw thread while you are not screwing the lockpin but tapping it inside the hole?

@WorkshopRebuild

Жыл бұрын

I did not tap this hole for the dowel pin, it was reamed to size. A reamer is a precise metal cutting tool to open up a bore to a specific size. If I were to use a drill, it could be too big and therefore you must use a reamer to achieve higher accuracy. I hope this helps, but let me know if I answered you question. Cheers

@HennieBours

Жыл бұрын

​@@WorkshopRebuild At min 10:36 I see you creating a screw thread.

@WorkshopRebuild

Жыл бұрын

I used a tap wrench wrapped around the hand reamer to be able to cut this diameter. This is probably the best option I had, because I do not have any power tools that offer any accuracy as of today. The cutting tool is NOT a tap, it is a hand-reamer (just to clarify). Thanks for asking this, because it might be a questions that someone else had. Regards Andreas

Do you need to change this ring or can you just leave it as it is?

@WorkshopRebuild

Жыл бұрын

Hi Hennie, this main bearing must be replaced if there is too much wear or if there are imperfections. In my case, there were light metal flakes on the bearing surface and I decided to replace them. The crankshaft measures just fine and that's another reason why I installed "original-size" main bearings. Regards Andreas

@HennieBours

Жыл бұрын

​@Workshop Rebuild Thanks Andreas.