Great video, wish i would have seen it before i did my own repairs on my '06 model however i had quite a bit of luck and because of my machinist background and my good friend JB weld, my expense was at a minimum i have made a video also to show how i did it Thanks again keep up the good work.

I just replaced both flywheel and stator. After tearing everything open may as well just do both . Anyway mine runs great now 😁

A gentleman on Marketplace has a 2004 Suzuki RL 250 for sale for $500.00, he claims that it only needs a stator. The quad looks like it's in fairly good condition, I'm tempted to go check it out.

Stator can be bench tested out of the bike; it doesn't need to be in the bike with the magnets. You will have to check the specs as it it is different with different bikes.

I have a 650 kawasaki jetski that wont spark. It has a new battery, cdi, coils, plugs and leads. It has absolutely no spark so I'm guessing it's the stator and or flywheel. Cheers for the video.

I found my flywheel on eBay for half of that, and the puller was only 35 bucks on eBay as well. I did not need a stator though.... but it was priced out and it was under 100....

Has anyone hooked up an oscilloscope to the crank triggers and see what kind of waveform comes out?

Thanks a lot. I like your videos and thank you for sharing these info with us. I am totally no knowledge on car parts and how they work. As a dummy, I was cheated many times by our local workshops here. Practically I paid thousands of dollars to our local workshops, without knowing they are doing, but to let my car move, I had no choice. Very often these workshops will just add up the bill saying they change these and change that. After a few months I need to go them again. Start watching your videos to learn somethings, so that I would not get cheated so easily. Thank you. Mei from Malaysia.

@trustmymechanic

9 жыл бұрын

Thank you Mei.

@LouTAUs

6 жыл бұрын

If you don't trust the shop you're going to, it is YOUR fault for going there in the first place. Ask friends, family etc about who they go to for their service & repair work. The odds are high there is at least 1 reputable, honest shop with highly trained, competent, ASE certified technicians that will not lie to you or sell you unneeded parts or services. I've owned my own business for close to 30 years and my reputation is pristine. I do not advertise, yet I am booked 7-10 days in advance 90% of the time..though I do allow breakdowns to be towed in immediately and we do our absolute best to get everything out the door the same day it arrives, especially for our regular customers. I've seen more 14-20 hour work days than I can honestly recall due to this. I was a mechanic on the M1A1 Abrams tank in the US Army which I joined to pay my way through technical college where I graduated in the top % of my class with a degree in automotive & diesel technology. I had my ASE MASTER certification before I was 22 years old and added my advanced certs shortly afterward. I still attend damn near every training seminar and school I can find that will increase my abilities and keep me as current as possible. My Father started this business in 1985, I began working for him that year, albeit as a "gopher" as I was a low level tech at that time. I became a partner in the business in 1993 and took over the majority of operations in 2002. If you go to chain stores you will be screwed over. They will NOT pay enough to retain a highly trained technician. If you go to quick lubes, you will be sold unnecessary parts & services as they mostly work off of a commission... same for most tire & auto centers. That leaves dealerships and independent garages as your best bets. I hear all of the time from uneducated vehicle owners that dealerships charge too much....well, how much is having the exact right information and technicians trained on your very vehicle worth? Their labor rate is not all that much higher then mine, and I have to keep my labor rate up in order to be able to stay as current as possible in the aftermarket, retain highly trained employees AND pay them what they are worth...not what the average in my area is. The average dealer tech in my area is still making just over $20.00/hour. That is shit money especially when you consider we buy our own tools (a PROFESSIONAL wrench set (10mm - 19mm) runs close to $300.00!) and have to take training and classes on OUR OWN TIME etc etc etc. I'm sorry, but if I can't make a MINIMUM of $30.00/hour it isn't worth me unlocking my toolbox. I KNOW what I am worth.My tech's KNOW what they are worth. I have a friend who is a top level Mercedes tech who could not get over $26.00/hour in Pennsy, so now he drives to East NJ every single day, gets on a train and gets off close to the dealership he works for. He is being paid $42.50/hour PLUS bonuses/profit sharing and a very generous tool allowance. Granted, maybe 2-3% of all technicians on the planet can attain the level the best among us have attained, but even the $42.50/hour is only 88,400/year BEFORE taxes. There are a lot of people out there with far less skill making far more money than even the best of us...though if we lived in California that number would be into the 6 figures, but not by that much. So, with all of that being said.....ask yourself if you TRUST the shop you go to. If that answer is NO, why are you going there in the 1st place??? I have no qualms telling anyone that if they don't trust me, I don't want their work, period. That way no one gets upset. One surefire way to piss me off quickly is to "accuse" me of "screwing you over" or not fixing your vehicle properly. That is my job, my passion, my profession. I take all of this VERY seriously and always have.

@traxxasrcfun

4 жыл бұрын

@@LouTAUs ASE certified doesnt mean shit, im ASE certified and idk what the hell im doing when working on shit😂 congrats on a successful business tho

I'm having trouble with the transfer gears. Got it back together but now it jumps out of gear. Any advice would be appreciated. I havr to do the work myself, budget won't allow my to hire mechanic. Thanks Jonesy!

I've got a 2004 AC 400 4x4 auto that needs a flywheel. Which one would you recommend?

They are NOT weights, they are MAGNETS. Your the fifth out of 7 videos to call them Weights. Lol

did it whip out the stator or the pick up coil.

Does the 400 and 500 use the same parts for flywheel replacement parts,or they the same thing ???

Hmmm...I just bought a flywheel puller for a Arctic cat 400 I’m working on for 16 bucks and it worked great...just saying🤷🏻‍♂️

Damn dude you getting ripped on parts

I’m in West Texas and I’m having problems with one that will nearly start but not, checked timing and valves. Ok Getting spark but back fires sometimes Any advice ??😊 Thanks

Well at least you will have all the weak points replaced and it’s worth it for sure

Have you had any problems out of the CDI unit??

Sir what if the ohms In the stator are in spec 1.5 ohms and the voltage regulators been replaced and stator and im getting 8 volts to the coil and it would not charge and die then never run again after a couple of charges to the battery and the plow used to work and does not work to go up but goes down when it worked the plow did the stator harness fried the plug from moisture and i rewired it the artic cat efi 700 ran for a couple days after then battery problems then died with efi codes and so i tried paper clip diagnoses no power to the plug to diagnose. Also if the cvt belt fliped the switch to limpo would the quad run? Mr techy??

@nickolasedmunds

5 жыл бұрын

Found out by my experience unplugging shit tell the efi code is gone was the solution was the voltage regulator got unplugged checked doides they were fried and efi code was off as soon as it was unplugged everyone. Im getting a new regulator.

stator test if i got spark on right side then it should work for both sides cause theres one stator for both sides

@LouTAUs

6 жыл бұрын

WHAT????

My 2004 arctic cat 400 cranks but it wont fire i checked the flywheel and the magnets were in good working shape could it be possible if its just the stator?

@justindwyer3832

3 жыл бұрын

Did you figure it out? Did you have spark? I'm having same issue but I have spark and new carb

How did you do the stator test? which wires?

@trustmymechanic

9 жыл бұрын

Adam, Jason the mechanic tested and checked it out for me...the link in the description for the video has his website and phone number if you want to call him.

Fuse box replace on my Arctic cat 300 2x4 2001

ما نقطه ضعفه

I see something fishy about the mechanic?

Four strokes... 😂😁😄

Cake job can be done at home within an hour

@racerx143

3 жыл бұрын

BS, just to pull it apart, clean everything up and inspect is going to take over an hour. I know because I just did it. And if a magnet gets eaten up like on mine, getting all that magnetic dust out is a timely chore.

Check stator for 1.5 ohms on all leads for artic cat no 1.5 ohms dead stator no spark check voltage regulator youtube how plus if no conmector to check just look at harness it was on for the red and black wire a short will cause no spark black ohm wire to red lead on regulator check if all are good on ohm meter switched to doide mode and then check black wire with red part on ohm meter all should say 560 or so 1100 means fried or 👎 null nothing to contacts means fried 3 contacts have to be the same value eithin 500 else dead out of spec for artic cat else pull the voltage regulator connection and see if efi mode comes off then theres a problem with stator or voltage regulator the ecu checks for ohms and doide specs if it cant the efi problem disappears enless its a stored code

@nickolasedmunds

5 жыл бұрын

Win win

the host thinks he knows what he is talking about.......