I've been sorting out my sons gen1 mille not charging issues. so checked the stater and did the regulator check. Tried a new stator new regulator, it held battery voltage and that was it. checked voltage coming from alternator 35v ac so got another reg it still held battery voltage 12.5v. Went through the wiring, nothing wrong. I replaced the reg with one off of a Yamaha r1. joined both feeds together and both earths together. Connected the yellow wires to the reg feeds and earths to relevant connections and what do you know 14.2 at tickover 14.50 over 4000 revs. Problem solved! Instead 1 amp its now 2 amps. Kind regards Mick

This guy is spot on. Excellent explanation!

Good to see you Griff with great content again! Geordielad 👍

I have fitted a SH847 regulator, so far it has worked for 4 year :)

Awesome info .. much appreciated :)

Griff helped me Years ago and i am thankfull forever :-) Greetings from Bosnia

Your channel is gold! Thank you for taking the time to make these videos, I love the simple explanation.

Mega video thanks lads

Had this problem (kind of) on my gen 2. It happened to be one of the cables just before the brown connector , was rubbing against a sharp edge on the engine block. This caused shortage and burned the stator. Bought a used 400 watt stator from a 2003 for 50€ on Ebay and it was all ok after that fix. Oh, and I got rid of that connector and protected the cables leading up to regulator/rectifier n a better way.

Great explanation. If I may, while everything you said was true, here’s another perspective. Ducati owners do a similar ‘fix’ by soldering the stator wires directly to the R/R pigtail with good success. A big reason for this is the connectors on the Ducs are pretty terrible and not very tight. A bad connection will increase resistance and greatly increase heat across the connector tabs and melt them. Also, on my bikes which are race track use only, it’s imperative to replace the R/R to a Mofset type and relocate them. Mofset type regulators don’t produce as much heat by their own function as Shunt type, and therefore are more efficient at bleeding off unneeded voltage as heat. I also tend to move them to an area of constant air flow. This gives them a fighting chance at remaining cool. Since doing this, you can place your hand on my R/R and it’s warm, but no longer scalding hot. And keep in mind this is without lights, turn signals etc taking voltage (heat) from the stator and the bike operating at high RPM constantly. Ideally you’d get a smaller stator with less winds producing less voltage, but aside from that, a good regulator, good connections and cool airflow over the Regulator are your best defenses. Love the channel, look forward to the next one!

Hi great video thank you ,i need help, where is located the regulator rectifier on the tuono rv4 2013?? thank you

The brown block is an issue with gen1's too, so do they have charging issues as well?

I own a '02 Falco. Without the brown connector/ futura wiring mod, starting the bike was a struggle. After changing the connector and running an extra wite to the + on the battery, i never had any problem whatsoever. 14.0 volts idle with lights off at the dash. I can not run it for months and ot will still start no issue. Isnt the battery some sort of sink that saves the regulator?

@magentapilot9526

3 ай бұрын

Interesting. Just going through electrics in my Tuono Gen 1 and I will definitely fit one as you are suggesting. Thanks!

Excellent video. Thanks doctor. I'm replacing both, regulator and stator.

Iv seen a stator cooling mod that runs a hose into the stator and cools it down is it any good?

What happens when I get 25-26v on tick over and close to 60v at 3k rev? Is that ok? My bike runs fine for 40 minutes then it starts cutting out. And the battery is weak.

Hi Guys in need of a bit of advice I've a gen 2 tuono 1000r 2007 my bikes thrown a code up on my dash LD04HZ.all functions work ie can hear petrol pump prime etc but the code won't allow bike to start I managed to trick the ecu into turning the code of to then start the bike but after testing code came back on I've changed battery to new one checked connections to battery and starter relay both 30 amp fuses are in tact.also had anthor code which didn't come back on which was think Apmt025 which think was starter relay.currently got bike in a local garage but there struggling to get head around it. Bikes only done 29k miles.always stripped clean contact cleaner greased acf 50 sprayed always seems to be come winter or wet weather I'm havin slight issues only this time this code won't remove

Griff, does installing the 380W flywheel not fix this? My stator is good, but I am looking to keep it that way.

Would improved cooling help?

Could you share a link to the OEM part that fixing the issue? I have a problem with charging on my 07 Tuono, the battery just doesn't receive a charge and dying. I replaced the rectifier regulator but it didn't help. Would like to solve the issue once and forever.

@jamestattersall2387

3 жыл бұрын

They sell the part on their website apworkshops.co.uk but it isn't cheap!

Hello Griff. Is the charging system Ok. When it is 13.5v at idle. And around 13.6 when revved to 3k rpm

@murdanauf

Жыл бұрын

Im getting 13.5 at idle and between 13.5 and 14.1 when revving. Have no idea if thats ok

@murdanauf

Жыл бұрын

He explains in the video, thats ok

@raydolinger1980

Жыл бұрын

Thats correct voltage guys :) relax your good

And WTF is this not a recall issue??? Hi heat (hot enough to melt plastic) = possible fire hazard

@deadfool5345

2 ай бұрын

It was a recall but only for a year, if you didn't get the memo or go in for the recall sadly you had to pay your local dealer for the upgraded stator and regulator/rectifier

That problem has f@@$ked my life for years... and what i have found as a solution is that aprilia doesnt care about their customers and i should never buy aprilia again. Rsvr factory 2005. The bike was stationary after 3 years of purchase.