If you're having issues with the guide rod squeaking, I'd recommend silicone spray. No excess noise and the motion is a lot smoother.

@CGSW

Жыл бұрын

I responded elsewhere but yes, this is great advice and I now do this whenever it is needed, which isn't very often.

@iptest0125

Жыл бұрын

Do you mind explain why silicone? Can I just use regular oil or graphite-based dry lubricant?

@CGSW

Жыл бұрын

@@iptest0125 It doesn't attract dirt and for this application I prefer it to graphite. Other than the guide rod is now buttery smooth I haven't noticed any other difference, which is exactly what I want.

Pictures are sure cool. Love the PHOTOS feedback. Nice polished edge BTW.

Nice work!

I'm very interested in your "Five strokes per 3"... " And, using only the edge trailing strokes - interesting indeed. The "Proof is in the pudding" with your microscope images. Thank you for these, just subscribed too...

@CGSW

Жыл бұрын

It's more 10 strokes per 3" but it really depends on how stable you can hold your angle. I think 5 strokes per 3" would be fine, in a perfect world, but I am far from that, so far.

I have found that bare leather (in my case a paddle strop left hanging under my workbench) will scratch the bevel also. Thank you for the video.

Wow, phone books… where can we find them?? Great videos. I’ve always polished with trailing strokes, but I’m still not sold on increasing the angle when doing it.

Can you talk about using the 2” table vs the 3” and resting against the handle vs ricasso? Curious if you were experimenting or had a preference / think one is better than the other.

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

The 2" table is better for this knife but it had the 3" on it, it just barely worked, and I was being lazy.

I decided to grab one for fun... a Spyderco Maxamet...

Are you making any adjustment to your angle when you swap stones? What about the angle for stropping?

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

All of my stones and strops are the same thickness so I don't need to "compensate" them. The only time I like to change the angle is with the final grit and I like to increase it around 1/2 degree to make sure I am reaching the apex with it. Usually I will finish polishing the bevel with the last stone then change the angle and give it a couple more passes. The angle change is too small to call it a micro bevel.

i don't know if you've discussed the machine you are using. looks like a custom edge pro? love what appears to be a magnetic knife holding plate. can you tell me more about this sharpener?

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

A little bit. I wanted a "better" sharpener so I made it a few years ago to test some ideas I had. One of the main goals with this sharpener was stability and repeatability for taking my microscope images. When I got the microscope I discovered how much I needed to improve my sharpening. This is my version of how to clamp the blade so it doesn't move when sharpening.

@estevangarcia9499

3 жыл бұрын

@@CGSW Super cool!! I use the apex pro and I can see how your machine is an awesome improvement !!

@stevenknight8237

3 жыл бұрын

I have the new MAGNETIC EDGEPRO Professional set-up see their site...trade your old non-magnetic Professional tray in...

Hi what is the make of your sharpening system please

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

See my response to Estevan Garcia.

Columbia George I was wondering if you could maybe give me some ideas on the stone progression for s30v or s35vn a super steel but not as super as maxamet

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

I really don't change my progression much whether it's Maxamet or a Henckels. The only differences are maybe 20% ish fewer strokes per grit and beware of diamond on your strop for lesser steels. Which grit I start with just depends on what is needed, it doesn't matter what the steel is.

@LouietheKnifeAddict

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your help.

@LouietheKnifeAddict

3 жыл бұрын

Do you use 15° per side on all of your knives

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

@@LouietheKnifeAddict Sort of, so far, but I haven't experimented with less yet. So far I haven't gone below 15 degrees on the apex for fear it will get too fragile, but I just don't know. I recently entered a casual BESS competition so I will be playing with thinner polished edges soon. My sharpener goes below 1.7 degrees with the stone on the front of the table so that won't be a limitation. Shawn @ BBB is providing the blades so they will be pretty thin to begin with. He's going to live stream on his channel when he tests the blades on his PT50A.

@LouietheKnifeAddict

3 жыл бұрын

@@CGSWagain thank you for showing me your method. The pictures Totally made me a believer. I sharpened 4 knives using your method. Works like a charm

How much pressure do you think you’re using?

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

On that .05" ish bevel around 10 ounces with the coarsest stones to a few ounces or less with the finest. If you have these stones don't be afraid to use too much pressure and have to dress them, it's the only way to find out how much pressure is too much. Also, the size of the bevel has a lot to do with how much pressure to use, think surface area contact with the stone.

Hi I have a pro model and Ben says you are to to use push and pull strokes . not just pull Strokes. Am I mistaken?

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

My microscope tells me that pull strokes do less damage to the apex than push so I don't argue with it, too much. Like anything with sharpening so much depends on the steel, heat treat, and sharpening medium. Edge leading or trailing strokes will matter more on hard, chippy steels than tougher steels. I still do both at times and am still learning so don't take my advice as gospel, just food for thought.

I have Edge Pro what kind of sharpener is that you are using???

@CGSW

2 жыл бұрын

I made it myself a few years ago to try out some ideas and have a more stable platform to develop the Matrix stones with. At least the Slide Guide made it to production.

Those microscopes pics are soon interesting

Have you experimented with starting straight off with the 650 grit and skipping the lower grits? Theoretically, the edges of the 35 micron size particles being diamond embedded inside hard resin, should cut just as well (or perhaps better) than the large 180 micron diamonds of the 80 grit stone. My theory is if you have many more sharp protruding edges of a large increase in the number of diamonds per square inch on the 650 grit stone, they should all cut as well as the individual protruding edges of the 180 micron diamonds.(In a hard resin bond specifically, this would not apply on a diamond coated plate.) If it is mounted on a metal backing plate then 180 micron diamonds does cut better, but with yours being embedded inside a hard resin with most of the diamond below the surface of the resin, I think the increased number of cutting edges per square inch of the 35 micron stone could possibly work as well or better. If I had a set of EP matrix stones I could experiment myself, but I don't have a set of them yet. I do have other branded diamond resin stones but not a set of yours...yet. If you have time, could you experiment with this?

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

While there are far more cutting points with a finer stone the coarser ones are far more effective at removing metal. I figure each jump in the grit progression removes about 1/10th as much metal per pass, perhaps less. This video is more a proof of concept for the way I would like to make/edit them in the future, I think I really screwed up not sticking to 10 strokes per side which is all it really needs. Now that I have it figured out I will be more consistent with making them. I have several I have already recorded and have a bunch in mind. I also want to explore diamond loaded strops, I was surprised how aggressive the 5-micron strop was, and I had sharpened a few knives with it since I loaded it with diamond. I have been playing with an Apex since 1994 and still feel like I don't know much, so much to learn. Yes, I will show how much work each stone does with one, two, or three passes in a future video. Plated bonds are by far the most aggressive and I think resin is the least. Plated is great for rough stock removal but resin is great for a consistent scratch pattern and they are much nicer to your knife.

@burtjoubert

3 жыл бұрын

@@CGSW I couldn't agree more about plates vs resin bonded, and thanks for the magnificent addition you made for the Edge Pro system with these diamond bonded stones. If you have a chance at some stage, would you mind comparing going straight to the 650 grit, but still doing the passes you would have done on the 80 and 250 grit? In other words, try doing 30 passes per side on the 650 grit (nothing on the lower grits), and compare that to your regular 10 passes 80, 10 passes 250, 10 passes 650. I still have a strong suspicion that the 30 passes on the 650 alone will cut as good or better than the combination of the 2 lower grits. I've tried it with other diamond resin stones and have had similar results with some, and worse with others. I think your bond is good enough to perhaps beat some of the others. Very interested to find out about this if you could experiment at some stage.

@davidscott430

3 жыл бұрын

@@burtjoubert At what stage should the bevel start? Polished and used or 80 grit??? Another test is to start a re-bevel and measure how many passes it takes to get the new bevel to a certain width. I have some bars to grind on to save my knives for this kind of stuff, Cpm 4v, LC200, and HSS blanks for a lathe. I do know from experience that the 80 will far surpass the 650 in how much metal gets removed, no contest

You never told us what angle you used. I'm using 17 deg per side. I've read that that is a good angle to use with these knives. Outpost76 uses 15 deg per side in all of his testing and sharpening video's.

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

I start at 15 deg per side but will raise the angle a 1/4 to 1/2 degree for the last grits to make sure I am getting to the apex like I want, vs just polishing the bevel.

Have you checked out “scienceofsharp.com”? He uses photos from a scanning electron microscope. I’d highly recommend checking it out. He has an article dedicated to maxamet.

@lindboknifeandtool

3 жыл бұрын

And I suspect that a few push strokes, half a degree higher, would produce a more keen edge. Edge trailing strokes seem to produce a burr more readily. Also, the carbides in maxamet range from 1-2 microns and a few 5 micron outliers (based off observations from a SEM) so maybe try a 17-20dps and see if you are producing a more stable edge. Also take everything I say with a grain of salt, I could be misinformed or just plain wrong. This is my first time watching your channel and I really like it. Incredible design for your sharpener.

@CGSW

3 жыл бұрын

@@lindboknifeandtool I definitly know about Todds blog and love those SEM images. Speaking of which he states that pull strokes can get an edge up to ten fold keener than push. Of course the devils in the details but with good hard steel and good, real, diamonds there is no doubt in my mind that pull strokes are best when trying to attain the keenest edge. The burr left by the Matrix stones are smaller than most other stones I have used so cleaning them off with a strop is quite easy, and I never try removing them as I progress through the grits. This is especially true for Maxamet, instead of creating burrs the edge likes to break off. Todd has a nice image of a Maxamet edge after being sharpened with a 600 grit plate that shows this. This knife is my box cutter, which is about 90% of my knife use, so I haven't seen any stability problems from use and have no complaints about how long it stays sharp! I totally agree with raising the angle half a degree for the final stone. At the microscopic level the damage done to the apex by the coarser grits, as in they break the apex off during sharpening leaving a ragged edge, would take much longer/more steel removed to clean up than to polish the bevel. Raising the final stone a tad makes sure it reaches the apex and refines it as expected. Whithout doing this you will take many times longer to get the same edge. Change either the stones or steel and most of what I wrote may no longer apply.

If you spray a dry Teflon lube or some kind of dry lube on your sharping rod you won't have to keep putting water on it.. dry lube last for a long time and man it runs smooth.