right at the moment i have a 30 gal 4 hp sanborn built in 1980 which all the new one are 2 hp dont think it would be enough im getting afraid of the tank took off a fitting and looked at the with a scope still hard to detect how bad it is after seeing how some of these explode having night sweats great vid by the way

Nice vid, thanks

This may help clear things up for you. Your kiln uses 40 amps max at 220VAC, not 80 amps as you describe above (you don't double it). It most likley uses a lot less but lets assume max power draw. Power = voltageXcurrent=220X40=8800Watts=8.8kW. My power rate is $0.0985/kWh. Therefore, at my house your kiln would cost at MOST 8.8X0.0985=$0.87/hour to operate if you left the cover open and it never cut out. My compressor: 25X220/1000*0.0985 = $0.54/hour to run Learning: electricity is cheap

@puttz1976 Hi there... my camera is not good enough to illustrate the difference in volume betweent the 2 units. I too was very interested in the noise difference. The RK was quieter... maybe 20%... but more importantly the noise it produced was about 1/2 or 1/3 the frequency of the Coleman. The lower frequency sound was not as irritating. I have a 24X29 garage and can still talk to someone with the RK running but it is difficult to talk with the Coleman running.

it kicks in about 2 times a month under my "normal usage patterns" due to the 80 gallon tank. every 2-33 months I work on a project in the garage and it may kick on 10 times during that projec. I would guess it would use less than $5 in electricity/year.

Every thing Canadian made is good! I just sold a 60Gallon husky for 300 bux ... I found it didn't cost me a dime

Two years ago my Mother and I acquired a used electric pottery kiln. It runs on 220V, 40 amps maximum per leg for a total of 80 amps at peak temperature. It maxes out at 2,350 degrees Fahrenheit, or so it says on the label. I several hours and 'bout $150 wiring it up in the basement and my mother, sister, and niece HAVE NEVER USED IT. People tell us a pottery firing will use about $10 in juice in this area. The kiln will run for about 8 hours and then take 24 to cool down.

What's the low pressure relief valve setting since I just picked a compressor up and relief valves were missing

@mrdiyguy123

7 жыл бұрын

single stage vs 2 stage will make all the difference in the proper relief values. you should check with the compressor manufacturer. That is what I did :)

I'm kind if confusing about compresor.what is the different two &songle stage? Is it the double stage is a lot bigger or better for heavy duty? Nonstop job?

@MittyNuke1

3 жыл бұрын

2 stage is more efficient and can reach higher pressures. Compressing air generates heat, so if you're using one cylinder to compress air from ambient pressure to 100 psi in one piston stroke, it will heat up a certain amount. A 2 stage compressor would use at least 2 cylinders, one to compress the air to maybe 50 psi, then the 2nd stage cylinder takes the 50 psi air and compresses it to 100 psi. Each cylinder is only compressing its air 50 psi, so it is not getting as hot, but you still get 100 psi air at the output. In the video, it appears that there are two cylinders for each stage, which just gives you more volume of air, just like a v8 engine has twice as many cylinders as a 4 cylinder engine, so it can make more power. To add to the benefits, and as you can see in the video, there is an intercooler between stages, so the first stage compresses the air, then the air is cooled down as it travels to the second stage, so now the pump is running at an even cooler temperature, and the resulting output air will be cooler, and the machinery will run more efficiently (less energy being used to generate heat) and last longer because it's not as hot. Also, if you have 100 psi of very hot air, as the air cools, it will slightly reduce in volume, so you need to compress more air overall to get the same volume of usable air, another efficiency gain of using multiple stages to compress air. This is a similar principle of why the steam engines on old steam powered ships would use multiple expansion steam engines (like the triple expansion engines on the Titanic), since they can extract more power from the steam if they first allow the steam to push a cylinder, then use the exhaust of that cylinder to drive a slightly larger cylinder (since the lower pressure needs more area to act upon), and then that cylinder drives an even lower pressure cylinder. The exhaust from the lowest pressure cylinder will be much colder and lower pressure than the steam from the first high pressure cylinder, meaning more useful energy has been extracted from a given volume of steam. That process is used in reverse to compress air in stages, so that one cylinder isn't trying to take your air from 0 psi to 150 psi in one stroke, which generates a ton of heat and puts a lot of stress on the equipment.

I would think that the 5HP motor on the 2 stage pump is actually rated for 5HP output, what RPM does the electric motor run at? Apparently the commercial electric motors comply with a HP standard, so it's actually 5HP, not peak or any other proprietary method of calculation that you see on home use compressors.

Good for you to pick up an industrial pump and find the problem. I wonder if the guy who sold it to you thought he was dumping a lemon. I have a little craftsman that has been a bear for almost 20 years. I've never used a drier to exclude water, but we do live in a very dry place.

for those of us who dont own both but are interested in buying upgrade, it would be good to run them both starting at 0 psi and show how fast the big one is at filling up compared to the box store unit.

@mrdiyguy123

7 жыл бұрын

All this info is going from memory: The 80 gallon commercial RK compressor takes 9mins 15 seconds to pump up from 0 PSI to 175 PSI. I know that is a long time... but it never has to do that work in my garage. I don't have air leaks in the system and it simply pumps up from about 130-175psi as needed and that takes

@michaelcollins1899

7 жыл бұрын

mr diyguy123 good to know, they are avout same then it sounds

I'm guessing brass fittings seal threads better because everytime you tighten brass on brass, the threads gall because brass is so soft. That's my theory at least.

If the first is a TWO CYLINDER, doesnt that make it also a two stage compressor? That was always my understanding.

@billjenkins3660

10 жыл бұрын

Two stage means that, basically, one compressor's exit blows into another's inlet. The "primary" is usually larger than the "secondary", as well. In a plain two-cylinder, both cylinders blow into a common pipe.

security torq set at harborfreight .

what is the noise level of the C oleman

@mrdiyguy123

3 жыл бұрын

Neither were loud. They were about the same volume but the 2 stage was pumping 4x the air that the Coleman pumps. I wouldn't hesitate to buy either of them again.

do you need to drain the air daily?

@mrdiyguy123

8 жыл бұрын

If you were painting for hours a day, sure drain daily. However, for less constant use, weekly is fine. Obviously, humidity plays a factor.

@andyrulz2626

8 жыл бұрын

Okay thanks

@ypop417

6 жыл бұрын

YES will save your Compressor

the "wrong" safety valve could have had the role to decompress the piston so it could be started easaley by the engine.

@JM-yx1lm

6 жыл бұрын

ttiiuutiu thats the dumbest thing i ever heard. The saftey valve will drain the tank pressure ONLY. the line from the pump has a check valve that keeps the pressure in the tank from bleeding out through the pump..the unloader valve is what bleed the pressure from the pump so it can start unloaded the next time..that why it is called an unloader valve.

@MittyNuke1

3 жыл бұрын

@@JM-yx1lm No, there are safety blow off valves on the piping between stages in the compressor in this video, as well as one on the tank, and as well as an unloader which is what you're describing, and yeah the unloader is used to make the motor easier to start. I'm guessing that the multiple blow off valves is for the case that the valves on a cylinder fail, like if the second stage intake valve failed, the safety valve would prevent the first stage from building a dangerous pressure in the pipe between the first and second stage and destroying the cylinder seals or worse. If you have a single stage compressor, even with multiple cylinders, then the cylinder pressure is fed directly to the tank, so only one safety blow off valve is needed. With a multiple stage compressor, you need a blow off between each stage.

LOL magnetic starter? Contactor? it's a RELAY. It just a large relay. There are plenty of mechanical switches that can support high amperages but a relay makes since on a semi automated switch since you can put an interrupter on the signal voltage to give you your normal on/off switch.

@JM-yx1lm

6 жыл бұрын

fcguy7 no dummy, its a contactor that uses an electro magnet. Its not a relay because this is high amp stuff. Go see if your air conditioner unit outside has a contactor or a relay and get back to me on that.

@MittyNuke1

3 жыл бұрын

@@JM-yx1lm A contactor and a relay are the same thing. Contactor is just typically used to describe a larger relay. They both work using an electromagnetic coil to make and/or break electrical contact.

same mistake everybody makes on your red tank. water separator/filter never goes there, yet thats where everybody put them. they basically are useless there as the water doesnt form til way down the line as it condenses. therefore, that device goes at end of line where you welill see a huge difference in its performance, for once, you will actually see it is catching something lol

@mrdiyguy123

7 жыл бұрын

Good feedback. Many people simply have a rubber line leaving their compressor tank that they drag around their garage... but i agree with you that if you have the lines piped around the garage, having the separator at the tank does not take out all the water. I would actually recommend a separator at the tank and another at the end of your piped lines. The separator at the tank does indeed capture some water.

@michaelcollins1899

7 жыл бұрын

mr diyguy123 ummm, yeah, the separator at the tank still catches some water. no,no,no. ok , so yes, it catches like a tablespoon a month no shit and i challenge you to check me on that. dude, i just drained my whole shop yesterday and got close to 2 gallons drainage. so tell me how the thing with 1 ounce of water in it is helping. trust me, its useless and you are cutting down on your flow with every device, every fitting, every 90°fitting, ,, all cut down on cfm to the tool. most set the regulator at 40psi and think they will paint like a pro cause they watched a youtube vid. not realizing at the end of the 50 ft hose, thru 8 fittings and 1 filter, they have actual 15 psi at the gun lol. clueless. then they swear a bunch, go online, and blame the paint.

@MittyNuke1

3 жыл бұрын

True, but it's also a filter which can be useful to prevent crap from getting in your lines. Even better, install an after cooler between the pump and the tank, and a drain after the aftercooler, and you will catch a TON of water before it even makes it into the tank. Biggest improvement I can think of with no operating cost for an air compressor.

@michaelcollins1899

3 жыл бұрын

@@MittyNuke1 but the more you put in line, the more you cut flow down. Psi stays same, but flow is decreased. Wouldn't matter for the weekend guy who is blowing off a work bench, but for us guys who run a booth with air, volume is king. Buy a hi flo hi quality hi dollar filter and put it as far down line as possible...not at tank. Its definitely not common knowledge, but it's been proven over and over by all large shops...and the. Of course, drain your tank weekly and especially before a paintjob. My filter alone was over 100$ and allows full com through it. It is a paint booth filter.

@MittyNuke1

3 жыл бұрын

​@@michaelcollins1899 Nothing to disagree with you here -- I have 2x 2HP compressors, each with an aftercooler + drain in between the compressor head and tank meaning it's only in the flow path while each tank is charging up. Line from each receiver tank to a manifold (2 lines in parallel) that goes straight into my 3-stage filter: regulator + 0.05 micron pre filter, 0.01 micron coalescing filter, and desiccant cup that I fill with beads when painting, which is essentially what you're recommending here (3-stage filter right before the hoses that connect to the tools). Paid about $120 for the filter - completely agree with getting a good filter. I just wanted one that I could replace the desiccant beads, since I just picked up an old refrigerated dryer the other day, and without that dryer, the beads get used up pretty quickly since I know the aftercooler only brings dew point down to ambient temperature at best case and for painting you want the air more dry. Right after the 3-stage filter I have a manifold feeding a hose reel + shorter hose, which is where I connect my paint sprayer or tools, and I've spent time testing everything, upgrading to high flow fittings/full port valves and adjusting regulators while using tools to ensure I still get 60-80 psi at the end of the line while using a tool (sander, grinder, drill, blaster, etc.). 100% agree with draining the tanks (I usually do it before/after every session of using the compressors for anything more than a quick blow gun cleaning), even though with the aftercooler I hardly get any water in the tanks. It's crazy to see how much water the coolers remove, which would otherwise go straight into the tanks, which was really the point of my previous comment. Eventually I plan to upgrade to a bigger 2-stage compressor but right now this setup can run a sander or any other tool I have (including a small soda blaster) continuously with sufficient pressure. But either way, this setup is only for 1 person (me) and works great with good flow, but I would probably need to design it differently if there was more than one simultaneous operator using it.

Enjoy your electric bill....

@MittyNuke1

3 жыл бұрын

His electric bill will be based on how much air he uses. If he had a smaller compressor, it would just run for longer and probably cost more to make the same volume of air. I've never heard of a 4 cylinder compressor, but dual stage is more efficient than single stage, and two cylinders per stage is more efficient than one cylinder per stage. So that big compressor is actually more efficient than a smaller one, assuming you actually need a lot of air (since if it's starting and stopping constantly, then it's not running efficiently due to starting up, which isn't efficient, then unloading the pressure from all the piping and the cylinders every time it shuts off/wasting that air). As a comparison, Northern Tool makes a 3 cylinder, 2 stage pump, that makes 14.9 cfm @ 90 psi using a 5 HP electric motor, vs the 20 cfm @ 175 psi (that sounds kind of crazy) with what looks like a 5 HP motor on the compressor in the video. If you compared the electric usage of one of those little car tire inflators vs the compressor in the video, to fill that big tank to the same pressure, I would bet the tire inflator would use more power given the fact that it would run for hours to fill that tank vs just a few minutes with the pump installed on it in the video. Even though the small pump doesn't use a lot of power, it needs to run for much longer to compress the same volume of air. Looks like an awesome unit!