I bought one of those torque multipliers and for the grief its saved me, it was well worth the $100. It's also nice to know that when I put the nut back on I can set it to the correct torque spec. I like that you don't edit out the little issues that always seem to happen on jobs like this.

Thank you for this video. You're helping me with my build.

I know this is an old video, but you do not bend the e-brake cable retainer on the backing plate, you do remove the 13mm bolt holding the retainer and everything slides in. Also on the handle side of the cable, you have the lower nuts on backwards, the rounded side goes against the balance bar, you can see the recess on the balance bar for the rounded nuts.

@SchoolStGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Great tip! Thanks, dude. I stumble through all of these doing the best I can.

Lotsa commentary on breaker bars and torques. I watched the "bending" video as well as all the rest and I think you are doing a damn good job A 2in pipe would cover a longer stretch of your 1/2in drive bar and eliminate the "bending". I also like the way you "found" the missing piece when the job was done.

Great video. Currently dealing with my nightmare project in which I need to do a 100% total brake system replacement. Everything bolt and nut is literally fused. Using this vid as a guide on the e-brake line. I can't get it out of the backing plate at all due to the fused rust so I need to just cut everything including the backing plate out.

@SchoolStGarage

6 жыл бұрын

Heat is your friend, man. And a big hammer. Good luck!

Digging all your vids... surprised you didn't use the 'ol breaker bar method to get the 36mm axle nut off

@SchoolStGarage

7 жыл бұрын

I tried the breaker bar on the flywheel nut a few episodes back and was bending it so much I thought it'd break, so when the gun did the job then, I vowed to run with air power if I ever got too skittish with the bar. Besides, my axle nut is a deep socket, which didn't want to stay on the nut when the bar was on it.