This is where I'll be posting videos of me working on my projects: car restoration, lutherie, shop stuff, and so on. Currently, I'm working on refurbishing a 1969 VW Bug. I've also got a lifted Willys CJ-3A that is running a Ford 260 V8. It'll be an ongoing project as I get it prepped to run the Rubicon in four or five years.
Disclaimer: My videos are for entertainment, vlogging, and inspiration. Automotive work and woodworking are potentially quite dangerous activities. Please read the manual, consults professionals for advice and training, and be mindful of what you are doing at all times. If you feel any hesitation or uncertainty before performing any activity, stop yourself immediately and seek out someone to do it for you or train you to do it yourself. It is foolish to believe you can try any activity simply because you saw it in a video online. So use your brain, double check everything, have a healthy respect for your tools, and do not lose your fingers, toes, or life.
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Next time take the amount you’re narrowing out of the middle and the just relocate the mounting brackets. Less you have to cut up the beam and weld back together
Do yourself a favor and get a good valve soring compressor
Didn’t see you clock the CV joints…..?
What kind of tool are you using to work against the springs? thank you
What about the old Jeep?
Very nice, doing and old 1965 1200 40hp single port right now. Cleaning everything up and will do the same thing on these heads. Not sure about the valve condition yet and there is some impact damage from a blown-out piston in one area but not where you lapped the inside so should be good. Definitely had blow by on the head where the blown piston was so lapping is a must on these. I got one of those cheap spring removers too, so your video is helpful setting up for this.
Use a piece of pvc pipe just bigger then axle..slide boot on it then over axle remove pvc . Apply greas to pvc..first.. That's my idea anyhow..got to do this myself .just ordered the boots...thank for posting. 👍
what im thinking is your fuel getting too cold with no heat risers. Ive got a friend of mine who delete his heat risers and his engine wouldnt handle acceleration properly. With a Vacuum leak, you idle would be all over the place, range about 850 then dropping to 600 then goes back up, etc...
Hadn't thought of that. Thanks for the suggestion. The idle is still a little all over the place, though I've swapped out this hybrid carb for a different one.
Great explanation and no nonsense video.
I appreciate that. It was honestly not that hard of a project once I broke it down into steps. I've had no issues since.
Good Job 👍👍
Thanks 👍 They're still going strong!
You may want to consider this... Your MIG welder can obviously weld with steel wire, but it can also work with MIG Brazing Wire as well... Now Mig Brazing is not Mig Welding, but it is extremely strong and it uses a whole lot less temperature, so it is much less likely you will have burn-through or warpage of the sheetmetal with MIG Brazing. Brazing of course is "bonding" it is not "welding", but the bond created with the bronze is very very strong, so strong you would probably break the two pieces of metal you have brazed together before you would break the brazed union. It's something to consider, and it is a perfectly acceptable method of working with sheet metal.
That is an awesome suggestion, Billy. I have many more patches to do along the base of the front window and in the rain gutters and on the rear hatch, so I'll check that out. I'm up for trying anything that'll work.
@@SchoolStGarage Check out a few videos on "MIG Brazing" and "Brazing" in general. The temperature required for brazing is very much less than welding and provides a very strong bond that in many ways is nearly as strong as a weld. Good luck with your projects.
Watched a few already. That really would've been the right avenue for me in patching this nose. Thanks again. At least I'll be able to give it a shot on the upcoming repairs.
I like it. Gives an art Deco vibe. Perfect for the car
I’ve been welding on rusty vws for years and sometimes it’s hard to do . I’m not the best but what I’ve found like here on my latest beetle video VW Beetle 1972 Saved from breaking. Repairing the RUST !! kzread.info/dash/bejne/YpWDxseMk7rJfbQ.html Is fibreglass filler as I had a few deep dents that I never pulled out but a tip from bad Chad was to use fibreglass filler,smooth then body filler on top (bondo) it filled the dents and looks ok oh and hides the boger welds :) keep going and good to move on then go back like I’ve done recently 👍 keep going at it sir , it will be fine
Great tip, and nice video. Subscribed!
@@SchoolStGarage thank you 👍
Excellent Werk!
Thanks, man! Trying my best.
A job well done 👍
Getting there! New video of a much more appealing nose coming soon. Thanks for watching!
Might be mixing up points plate and weights area. The weights spin, but the points plate does not spin. Use shaft with weights from 009, use points plate from 034. Probably I'm missing something.
It's been a while since I did this, but you may be right. It ended up working, though, so ...?
Check the wiper motor and the action now while it is open.
Great suggestion. Thanks!
Sorry, but hardly the best welding job and sheetmetal work, thus nothing to admire and learn...
Agreed. Definitely not here to teach anybody how to weld. Just documenting my efforts.
@@SchoolStGarage ok, in that case I understand....👍
Yeah. I own a welder, but I'm not one. I'm an English prof who does this for fun. I do everything to save money and learn a little something along the way. Cheers!
Lookig good!!🎉
I'm so stoked. Wasn't sure if I was going to get it looking halfway decent, but I'm pleased overall with how it's coming.
PUT SOMETHING UNDER THE VALVE SO IT DOSE NOT GO DOWN WHEN YOUR PUSHING DOWN ON THE SPRING
Great tip, Fred. Thanks!
where did you get the red horn button or where can i get one thanks Dean
Hey Dean, I bought it off the Samba.com years ago. Here's the ad: www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds//detail.php?id=1482293. Not sure if the seller has any more, though.
Thanks for the info have a great day @@SchoolStGarage
I'd try not to hit my rachet with a hammer.
Good call. I'm a bit of a neanderthal when I get frustrated.
A tip for you. Watch Fitzee’s Fabrications for inspiration regarding rust repair methods.
Will do! Thanks, Max.
Awesome JOB !
Much appreciated. She won't be perfect, but she'll be solid and mine.
Excellent video!
Much appreciated. I've made a long of progress in removing all that rusty metal and putting in some healthy steel. New episode coming soon!
If you're not cutting your shock towers you will have problems I have a EMPI 2" narrowed beam on my 67 and that's as close you can get with shock towers your literally and 8th or less from wheel well on the inside the shock towers.
I ended up shaving a bit of the inner fender well to make them work. Didn't have to compromise the shock tower strength at all doing it that way.
SRV and Albert King
Two of the best ....
Getting closer
Out with the ugly ....
Keep at it 👍🏴
Thanks, man. Your work on your own bus has inspired me endlessly. I appreciate the support.
Great video
Good progress. It will be solid when your done
Thanks, man. I'm feeling more confident now than I was. Yesterday I cut out most of the offending rusty chunks, and I'm now prepping it for new sheet metal. It won't end up perfect, but it'll be a lot better than when I found it.
@@SchoolStGarage sometimes you just have to dig in and get the bad stuff out and hope for the best
I think you need a tetanus shot just to look at it.
Ha! You ain't wrong. This thing is an absolute pile, but I love rescuing stuff like this.
Yeah nice to see you back,wow unbelievable the front rust but looks a lot better once cut out 👍 good luck
Thanks, man! I've got a perfect replacement nose panel from Wolfsburg West. It's a partial nose and will replace the exact chunk that is missing. It will look as close to normal as I can make it sometime this summer.
Finally a more detailed procedure I've been looking for. Great video.
Glad it helped. I don't necessarily put these up as "how-to's"--more like "here's what happened." But anybody who benefits and doesn't have to struggle as much as I did makes it all the better.
Thanks for that articulate and instructional procedure! Your academic English background clearly helps the presentation, LoL. Too many of these KZread videos suffer from poor presentation, unclear English and grammar, which makes them a bit tedious to follow. This is a fascinating project for us 'buggy hobbyists' (if you were a professor of philosophy, would that make you a 'Buggy Hobbsyest', I can't help but muse?). 😆 Thanks again for this insight into the interesting world of bug distributors!
Happy it helped, Chris. How's your VW coming?
@@SchoolStGarage G'day! My own 'projects' are illustrated on THE SAMBA website (I'm 'WINDISCH' there), which is, of course, perhaps the single best resource for all 'Buggers' (😉). One of my latest is adding what I call the 'Coanda Cooling System' to my '73 standard bug, which draws upon Romanian aerodynamist Henri Coandă's airflow dynamics theory to augment the bug's cooling capabilities. As for the distributor matter, I 'inherited' my bug's Bosch 009 disty, which while great on the track, is unsuitable for regular, everyday street use, so I recently decided to change back to the Bosch SVDA type. Unfortunately, despite my best aspirations and tyro enthusiasms, I was born with two hands full of thumbs, so I approach distys with a bit more awe and trepidation than most do. [Ditto for carburetors] I obtained an excellently rebuilt Bosch SVDA equipped with standard points/condenser but after using a PerTronix electronic igniter component (in my Bosch 009), I hesitate to go back to a standard points set-up. Thus, I recently ordered a PerTronix Flame-Thrower SVDA that has the electronic igniter on it and am waiting for it to arrive. I'll try the PerTronix unit first, then fall back on the rebuilt Bosch standard SVDA if required. Opinion on the PerTronix electronic ignition system appears to be quite divided (any inputs on that?). You can reach me privately at [email protected], if you wish.
PS: Update on the Pertronix SVDA installation. I find the Pertronix SVDA disty to suit my needs perfectly. The dreaded 'dead-spot' of the 009 has been eliminated completely and my Bug now operates much more smoothly on initial acceleration from idle than it did with the 009. I'm quite happy with it (the Pertronix unit).
Sweet! Glad to hear that's working, Chris. The 009 is OEM trash, honestly. Just not fit for purpose these days with so many better choices out there, new and used.
I'm BugNerd on the Samba. Found your Coanda Cooling System thread. Pretty interesting tech there!
Thanks for the video, it helped me out a lot!
Awesome. So glad to hear that, Carlos!
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11:30 > boot pull over solution - pull 1st boot over from the other side- no foldover! 2nd boot- Use thin plastic bag or wrap flat plastic to make greasy sliding sleeve, to allow 2nd boot to slide over the problem spots on axle.
Great tip, Peter! Thanks for sharing that.
Shoot it with some “Slick 50”, let it sit and then bang on it.
Thanks for the tip, Don!
Wow ... those seats are ... LUSH ... nice find. Thanks for these videos and the others. Old, but I just picked up a 69 so looking forward to learning all about it! Subscribed!
Glad you like them! If you have any issues and need some advice, I'm an amateur hack but I might be able to help.
Hi! the top right screw on my D ring alwasy vibrates and comes loose. i was able to just screw it back in. but now the screw is loose and cant even sit in its hole. any idea to get it to sit? teflon tape? helicoil? bigger screws? any suggestions?
Teflon tape would be a good option, but also maybe even a medium Loctite would work. Put a drop in the hole, screw it in, and let the thickening/hardening of the Loctite take up the slack.
If you put them on from the opposite and they will not roll over on their self
Good tip! Thanks for sharing, Eddie.
the tool used to replace the boot that uses bolts that are torx, any idea what size?
8mm 12-point torx socket is what I used.
ITS THE STEERING DAPER BRACKIT
Yep. I got it moved over good enough that it steers nice!
Quite a project you have there. Good luck. Lemme know if I can help. Most of my experience is on my 1969 Westy.
Will do! Just subscribed to your channel.
Do you watch, KOMBI LIFE, VWLife or OldVolks TV? And where is the Vanagon guy located?
I watch the latter two. I'll have to check out the first one. The Vanagon guy is in Vista, CA.
Noice!😎👍 The usual suspects when it comes to rusty spots. That sure took a lot of elbow grease, bit it turned out 👍. Great job! STOC www.youtube.com/@SundryTalesOfConstance79WESTY
Thanks, my friend! Just subscribed to your channel. Looking forward to checking out your work.
@@SchoolStGarage Thank you for the script and Ditto! 👍😎
Noice!👍😎 You did it! Almost there 😁 STOC www.youtube.com/@SundryTalesOfConstance79WESTY
Noice!👍 You can do it! Nickels, dimes and quarters, it will all come together! Having fun along the way. 😎STOC www.youtube.com/@SundryTalesOfConstance79WESTY