🖖😎👍Very cool and a very great build up and it came out looking very spectacular looking after it was all done and finished with and all lit up a job very well executed indeed!,👌.

Nice buil..and nice model ship....

Really is a great re-design of the old ship. Nice work!

Quite impressed with the new Discoprise kit,aztec decals will really bring it to life

Heya! I’ve been building kits, scratch builds and sculpts as a Hobbyist and a semi- professional for some Twenty Years and buying kits for even longer! I Enjoy Many Builds Online but what Shocks Me the Most is some of the techniques used in Construction and the one I’m Most Critical of is Priming, Painting and then Applying Glue, be it Styrene, Epoxy or Super Glue to Surfaces that should be free of any Obstruction! This includes Paint or Debris! Areas of Critical Structural Integrity are supposed to be clear and well maintained so that whatever glue, epoxy or Super Glue is being used is able to sustain a reaction as its curing. If the Kit is Styrene or Resin those appropriate Glues Create a Sustained Reaction Enabling multiple surfaces to knit through an element of thermodynamics. This means that the opposing surfaces melt and join together! I call this process molecular re-fabrication. This is when the plastic becomes volatile and liquid before returning to its solid state! This is Encumbered when these surfaces are covered in paint or any other obstructive material!? While it may seem that the Modeller has a Secure Bond the Model Itself is on a Downward Slide to Eventually Breaking Up! The Glue in this Scenario Begins to Degrade and this is a Process that will begin in a period of months as opposed to years and sooner if the Model is Handled Excessively!? The Whole Point of Styrene and Resin in Most Kits is that Chemically all these Elements Fuse together! And it is only through Being Fused that the Modeller is Able to Increase the Longevity of their Subject. Styrene on a Painted Surface Breaks Down, Epoxy Resin on a Painted Surface Breaks Down! Super Glue Should Only Ever be Used in Areas like Tubing, Landing, Gear, Antennae and Other Fixed Structures that are not going to be Manipulated! As for Internal Wiring there is always a neater solution in tightly bundling them together or boxing them in!? It is less Awkward and less stress upon the model and any lighting system! A Good Way to Test Your Models Rigidity is to Tap it- in this example in the Primary and Secondary Hulls! If the Model Gives a Flat Non Echoing Tone then you can rest assured that all the Critical Joins in your Project are Secure and will last. However, on the other hand you tap the model and there is a thin almost tin or ringing tone then your model is weak and will eventually succumb to rapid deterioration and will eventually fall apart! Never attempt to glue a join on a panted or obstructed surface! Always Cross Hatch those areas where you’re going to apply glue. Make sure those areas are clean! Press Firmly Together and Bind within the Tolerances of the Kit! That’s My Lot! Great Building One and All!

@allscaletrek

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Eugene! I'm using Tamiya extra thin on the glueing surfaces of the plastic, it melts away the paint and melts the plastic together so it should be a solid fused piece after that. I'm using five minute epoxy on the LEDs only. I've held the clear parts on with superglue, only because, 1. they don't need much to hold them on, 2. if I used any of the glues that melt plastic, it would melt some of the surrounding paint and get the windows messy. 3. the windows are small enough that if I ran into any 'crazing' it wouldn't be very noticeable. You are completely correct that the way to make the strongest model is bare plastic, glued with a solvent to bare plastic. I think that the tamiya extra thin, works pretty well, even with the light blocking paint layers on the inside of the plastic.

@eugenerusselnash

4 жыл бұрын

Star Trek Model Kit Previews Heya! When I referenced the glue fusing the Styrene I was not Indicating the Use of Plastic Weld that is Very Thin and with the Appropriate Use Would Fuse Plastics Quite Well. I was merely discussing the Technique in Terms of its Current and most Generic Applications- that is Styrene and Two Part Resin Epoxy. Styrene Glue wouldn’t cause any Crazing or Misting of the Transparent Elements unless there was an accident involving direct contact. Styrene isn’t Caustic or Gaseous Like Super Glue and though it is Highly Reactive Generating a Considerable amount of Heat Two Part Epoxy does not cause Misting in Proximity to Styrene Glass Elements Either. It is Interesting that you Say that Styrene in Part Dissolves Paint on adjoining, mating surfaces? It is True. But in Terms of a True Bond the Molecular Efficacy is not Sufficient Enough to Complete the Styrene Reactive Molecular Chain? This is in no Small Part Due to the Contamination of Acrylic or Enamel Paints that are bound by Water for the First and Oil for the Latter? Both Ingredients are Naturally Disruptive to Polystyrene Bonding! It is therefore Inevitable that in Time any Model having been assembled applying this Technique Will Lack the Structural Integrity than It’s Unobstructed Counterpart. I have some kits from my Childhood that have survived until this Day in part blessed by the Technique that I used as they were relatively easy to disassemble and clean for an up to date rebuild and restoration. I’m Looking Forward to Seeing you Apply Decals to this Kit. I will Aztec My Kit through the Application of Homemade Masks and Acrylics or Alclad. I am Enjoying Your Presentations. Best

Great video. Can’t wait to get this beast on my bench.

I built this model with lights. Very little painting is needed. Don't bother the overall paint seen here. Just the forward dish and the nacelle aft ends need paint. The decals cover every inch of the model. Mine turned out great without the time consuming painting shown in this video.

Coming along nicely so far👍👌🍺🍺🍻🇿🇦😎

Nice👍🏾..it's just me that's it's not BIG enough i guess I'm spoiled by the 1/350 scale Enterprises😁

Thanks for the build video! Think I'll definitely be referring to this a lot during mine. I know it's not totally finished yet, but I'd love to see another comparison with your JJprise, as I just love the idea of displaying these together.

Definitely making me consider the lighting kit for this

Does anyone know if the Raytheon method of simulating flood and spotlights on the saucer section by not light blocking where you want light to shine through the plastic would work in a build like this (and with the lights already in the lighting kit) where the outside of the ship is this darker metallic silver? or would that darker metallic paint itself create too much light block? I think that effect would look nice coming from that long thin window as if shining down in the registry numbers.

Haidet Star Trek self discovery and most of the ships in the entire series however redesign enterprise was absolutely brilliant!

Well hell. I was teetering on the fence about this but you had to go and shove me off didn't you. Now I HAVE to get these. The whole magilla.

I kind of wish the bridge decks came up a little higher...it just looks flat....Great job on the build.

what paint did you use on the deflector dish? Thanks

Awesome job on this.. How did you glue everything together after the paint was applied? Did you have any seam work to do after?

Great job on this! I love how you always get these kits before they are available to the public. Like another poster, it always pushes me over the edge if I’m not sure I want the kits. How was it fixing the gaps once you put the kit together since you had to paint the kit parts before assembly? I’m not a fan of the big dark area behind the deflector where the board sits. How difficult would it be to run the wires out of the ship into the base? Lastly, would you suggest doing Raytheon lighting for the registry lights, and is there enough ambient light in those areas to sufficiently light the registry from inside?

@slighter

4 жыл бұрын

The kit is molded in such a dark color that I don't really see how raytheon can even work on it. Besides, it might be enugh to just adjust the LED to have the same effect.

WOW! I absolutely LOVE this! Well done! Question, do you sell these? And how much?

Did the instructions specify that the model be painted silver? I just ordered the kit and I have a Revell 1/500 Enterprise to paint as well. I was thinking I would paint them the same color --- Enterprise Green Grey. But if the decals won't match that color then I guess I shouldn't.

nice just wish after seeing the battery box, wish it was a timer box so that you can cut it on and it would run several hrs then cut off

Can you run the lights without the motor?

How did you assemble the deflector dish? Awesome build btw

Can you see any of the wires or their shadows through the windows?

Looks great. I bought the small model, now I think I will have to get this also when it comes out. The re imagined Enterprise is the one and only thing they got right on that god awful show. It also looks way better than the ridiculous Jar Jar movie versions. I'm starting modelling all over again, can you give me any tips or links to good info on an air brushing systems. Perils, pitfalls, what to get, what to avoid etc.

I know its petty but there are no navigation lights or strobes. Thats interesting.

It's a great build! Any idea when the aztec decals will arrive?

@allscaletrek

4 жыл бұрын

I’m thinking by Tuesday

@benedictsee9452

4 жыл бұрын

@@allscaletrek lol the Tuesday Joke....

Can we see it in the dark?

@allscaletrek

4 жыл бұрын

My camera gets grainy in low light but I’ll see what I can do

@johnabe1939

4 жыл бұрын

@@allscaletrek it is looking awesome so far