Hello. Thanks for checking out my vids and for subscribing. I like guitars and amps and speakers and I like to make stuff. Thats pretty much it in nutshell. When I find something frustrating about a product, or if I can't afford it, I will try to fix it or make a better one. I hope to post vids, maybe once a month or every few weeks, of some kind of building project, or a comparison of sound equipment that I have either collected or made.
Thanks again for your interest.. G
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thanks again brother - wow, New Zealand? have you followed the situation with Julian Assange, now "free" in his native Australia? quite the saga - thanks again for your technical help. I have a squire Strat that I'm going to open up that has an "import" 5-way switch and I will wire my other guitar according to it. thanks again - ben
hey brother - I can't thank you enough for your advice. are you in the usa? may I ask you something else? I have an "import" (cheap) 5-way switch with 7 terminals. I've tried 2 schematics and it's not been successful yet? thanks brother from ohio - usa...
@@benjimenez7702 no problem at all. I'm in New Zealand, however my sister lives in Denver CO. Stunning place, hope to visit again. I only have a experience with the switchcraft 5 way switch. I'd need to look at any schem to evaluate. Hope you can get your head around it. Cheers
hey thanks for the information, brother - so - do you know if the "typical" Strat has the middle pickup wound in reverse? if all the pickups are wound in the same direction, what happens to positions "2" and "4" on the 5-way switch? thanks, dude
Very few, if any, strats were factory issued with middle pickup reverse wound/reverse polarity (RW/RP) however a few notable guitarists did play extensively with RW/RP, Mark Knophler, SRV, Hendrix come to mind. With RW/RP the signal would be out-of-phase in positions 2 and 4, providing that honky, quaky Dire Straights tone in some songs. The majority of sets however, would have all three pickups wired in-phase, presenting a regular, slightly additive, noise cancelling combined pickup tone in positions 2 and 4. You can also do reverse wound without reversing polarity and that adds a certain flavour also.
hi brother - thanks for the information - and - when winding the single coils, does the middle pickup have to be wound in the opposite direction? thanks again
No probs. You only have to wind the middle pickup in opposite direction (normally reverse wound/reverse polarity) if you want an out-of-phase sound when selecting both top and middle combined. If out-of-phase is not your thing, then you just wind the middle pickup the same as the others.
brother do you have to wind the two coils of the humbucking pickup in different directions?
The coils of the humbucker are both mounted and wound exactly the same. That is, they are wound the exact same direction. This seems contridictory, however In order to achieve hum cancelling, the ends to the outside of each coil are connected. This leaves two wires that come from the inside of each coil. One is hot and one is earth. This provides the reverse wound geometry of a humbucker. Cheers.
Red might sound better with humbuckers, yellow with single coils
Ok. Classic 80's Guitar Tube Amp rebuild. Not HiFi.
That was really good - slow, methodical well explained, calm, logical, well filmed, easy to follow. I loved your labelling of the components. Great work, I’ll look forward to more on this, or wherever you go along these line. If you leave it there, what you have already done is enough in itself! Ta .
Whoops, you HAVE done more! Now to have a look at that . . .
Your most welcome, glad you enjoyed it. I have a 6V6 jcm800 build with free plans coming soon, but alas, due to my over the top OCD, it's taken me about 18 months to do this project. But nearly finished. Cheers
After watching about two minutes of this video😅😅😅, my diy fever are all gone😂😂😂 none left😂😂😂😂😂😂
Glad I could help 😂
Just one observation: shouldn't the heater circuit be positioned higher to avoid hum due to lower position (close to the chassis)?
What influence would the chassis have on the large magnetic field of the filament winding (AC)?
@@elams1894it would create more hum if the heater circuit touches the chassis (although your build is near perfect, so it might not affect it anyway.) I realized that this might be more valid to high gain amps. So pardon my intrusion. I'd be happy if I could build half a beautiful design. 🙂
@@Nofarewell No probs on the question as magnetic fields are of high interest to me. You are certainly not alone in reasoning for physically elevated filament cables. My father built every one of his amps that way. The main reason I don't have filaments coming from above is that, imo, there is more chance of hum induction from the filaments to the sensitive parts of the socket with elevated filaments. I find routing filaments toward the edge of the socket, on the chassis suits my design better. Would be keen to hear of your observations or experience of chassis routing filaments however, as it's all relevant indeed. Thanks for kind words, and good question.
@@elams1894 Absolutely. I have limited experience in diy tube guitar amps, I am planning one high gain amp build now. The previous one had this bad kind of hum and the heater circuit was definitely touched the chassis, while the tube preamp/poweramp circuit were elevated. Although this issue alone wasn't the main culprit 🙂 I have been advised about this in a forum somewhere and it stuck; it might not only be the chassis that interferes, but the anode/cathode/grid cables. You can find this design in older Fender models too where the pre/power amp cables touch the chassis, while the heater circuit is elevated. Sorry if I don't use the adequate words, English is not my first language. Otherwise you might cannot imagine how helpful this series of yours. Invaluable info on how to solve circuitry issues. 🤲 Thought I'd bring this topic to light here, if it contributes to anything positive, then it wasn't for nothing.
@@Nofarewell Thanks for info, it all helps, very interesting. I asked my dad yesterday (hes 85 now, he worked as a chief sound engineer for TV New Zealand) why he elevated his filament cables above the sockets. He said that many of the large tube amps they imported from England at the time (1950's) had major ground loop issues and as a result the currents of which manifested in the chassis and effected the filament windings, ultimately ending up in the signal circuit. Elevating the filaments was an easier fix than correcting the earthing of the amp. He said that ideally of course you dont want any earthing issues at all. Ground loops should be avoided at all cost. He got so used to elevating filaments in tube amps, he ended up just building that way. So ground loop issues are definitely something to try to avoid. In my experience, grounding the tone stack, phase inverter, and the rest of the power amp near the mains socket, with preamp grounded at the signal input jack, works well to avoid ground issues in larger push pull amps. The tonestack may well be grounded at either position but you have to find which is best. However for me, two earth points only should exist in a tube amp. Alas, everything in tube amp building is a compromise as every little thing effects every other little thing. Thats the fun I guess. All the best with your builds, thanks for input.
This was very relaxing, but also very informative
Glad it was of interest, cheers
What thickness woud are you using for the flatwork of the bobin? And can you tell me what size rare earth magnets you are using or maybe a link?
Really sets the bar high for vintage vice studies. And waxing lyrical about the aesthetics of knobs was certainly a highlight. Just purchased a 1940s vice. Now to build a workbench that matches.
Takumar lens. Yes! Nice and neat. Love it!
Supernatural skills.
Beautiful wiring work! But i am really not following the choice of pin connections, the first tube shown seems to have black/red conected to pins 4 and 5, with 5 then going tstraight axross 9 but not connecting so this is as oer 12.6vac wiring, but the next tubes seems to have black going to 9 and red going to 4, with 5 not connected to any wire so sort of 6.3vac wiring but no pin 5 - that is something i haven't come across - Have I missed seeing something? 10:21
The first tube socket is for the EL84 power tube which has different filament pins to the 12AX7. Pins 4 and 5 of the 12AX7 are common, and require a small connector cable to join them together. I believe that might be shown in the next vid? Good question though, I see how that could be confusing, cheers.
nossa curto de mais este tipo de conteúdo parabéns amigo muito bom
Unsure if I missed it, but do these records utilize the Toe in feature? Or do they close up flat to one another? I have an old Colombian vise that I got oldstock unused and well,, it’s got toe in pretty excessively. It comes together flush pretty well however,, it’s definitely leaving indentations on my wood. I wonder if i should put wood jaws on it. And also if i should consider compensating for the toe in feature by compensating for it by making the wooden jaws the appropriate thickness to eliminate the toe in feature? What’s the word on toe in vs non toe in? Anyone know? Thanks!!
Super Military point to point wiring !!! 💯👍
Why did you add screws to the top of the used turrets? Great video. Thank you.
The screws hold the turrets together while soldering. They can be removed, or left in for strength. I now use 2.5mm brass machines bolts for the tall turret posts. It's cheaper and more practical. However, both work well. The added mass of the bolt and extra turret does not appear to affect inductance.
I see almost unanimous praise and admiration for this superbly scripted and shot video, which has the added bonus of a delightfully concealed bit of tongue in cheek humour along the way. You obviously have a tremendous knowledge of this model and I appreciate you sharing this for all to look and learn from. I have three 52 1/2 models which thanks to you I have now dated. Thank you for sharing. Respect. Franko U.K.
Thank you Frank, you are most welcome!
Wow. love your work.
Have you built anything else since your last video? I loved the Laney rebuild and the lay out.
Hi Tony. Yes, I have built a 6V6 Version of the JCM800 with the choice of 2 different FX Loops that actually work. In addition, the FX loops are NOT LN150 FET driven, rather they are opamp driven. The loops are parallel type, o e of which achieves parity and beyond. Video and free plans to the 800 coming maybe June. Cheers.
Man... That is a work of art!
Why wouldn't you use a bulb current limiter when testing your initial amp build? I can't believe you just hope it doesn't short.
I love your concept of turrets, but don't you think they introduce electrical characteristics? My heart tells me that point to point soldering is superior in terms of expected sound quality. Don't these turrets have capacitance, current features, etc.? No matter I really enjoy the way you edit the video and good quality close ups, obviously the end result is excellent. I think I will incorporate your turret tech style in future builds.
Yes turrets do introduce their own electrical properties, mass being the main one, meaning more opportunity for unwanted induction. I now use solid brass machine bolts where double turrets would normally be. Less mass, solder, less complications. Every component, whether that be resistors, turrets , cable, every little thing in the amp affects the system in some way. The less complicated the better. Everything is a compromise. Simplify one thing, creates complications elsewhere. I'm not opposed to PCB at all, in fact PCB's are ideal for things like FX loops, or anything revolving around pedals, as after all, they are solid state devices themselves. That been said, I do prefer turret point to point for tube amps. The high voltages render PCB a tad unreliable. You have to find your own peace of mind in amp design, anything is possible and everything you have said makes sense. You obviously give it some critical thought and thats what its all about. The more you can think about the electrical system, the better you are placed in ending up with a noise free amp. Thanks for the input and all the best for your builds.
Great stuff! I am interested in getting started building pickups. Quick question, for the wood parts, why not may a template out of thick aluminum then use that as a router template, as well as to drill the slug holes?
If I ever need a serial killer to build an amplifier, now I know who to call
@elams1894 I have a challenge for you... build a ~100w high gain modern voiced metal amp head with turret construction or whatever you think is best. I dont know if you've already done it but if not i do know you'll nail it. The goal will be the most crushing metal tone possible.
Your work is world class quality. Im a perfectionist aswell and you make me look like a hack
Thanks for a great breakdown of Record vice history mixed in with some nostalgia. Have come across a 1940's unit not working and contemplated if it was worth the time but after watching this I will take it apart to see if I can give it a new lease on life.
Can i bye your diagrams ? I dont speack english
Hello. Is it possible to put an fx loop in your amps? I hope to start my first build next month and I really love my reverbs and delays😅 Thank you! Have a nice day!
Frivolity given attention 😅
One of those types of videos I wish I could "like it" more than once.
When I saw the back wrench while twisting the wires, I said to myself; Another example of Man's need for not just three hands, But three arms as well ! Sir, Your content and wisdom is profoundly important! Well done and much appreciated, So I (we, I'm sure) Thank you for the numerous elements you employed in-too producing this extraordinarily well written and understandable definition of your own concept of the learning and teaching arena! Godspeed!
You have not mentioned the wire gaze and the number of turns given in a pick up. Was there a counter?
Накал запитан не правильно !
Very nice work! I've got a question about running filament wire and connections on the 12ax7 tube. I've seen where one wire will go through pins 4 and 5 and the other wire through pin 9. Another wiring is using just pins 4 and 5. I'm confused of which is right or wrong.....
Que buen trabajo realizado.Exelente.
AmplifiedParts, awesome site.
Hi - what size Brace bit are you using to swage those turrets?
Hi Steven, I use a Stanley No.139 3/4inch bit for swaging. Thanks.
Nice mechanic implementation!
Great historical review - very interesting, thank-you!
Cheers, glad you enjoyed it!
I love this clean and straight Layout and Building.👍👍👍🌞
What an absolutely MARVELOUS video and project! So relaxing and interesting!
amazing video.
Respect for the amount of work put into just EDITTING this video together. Both the physical build of the board and video creation for this is are straight but amp tech porn. So well done.
PRP resistors?
Yes, PRP. I like them, not because they are red, but because they are RED.