Actually, I did this, but the effect was not ideal. First, when two ESCs share one battery, the voltage drops very quickly, and it can only last for about ten seconds before it starts to slow down significantly. In addition, it brings a bigger splash, making the hull more flooded. But I still hope that you can give a more optimized solution, thank you!
@mattrandall76153 күн бұрын
where did you get fitting for the water to exit side of boat
@romanlisichenko29156 күн бұрын
Check your fingers with a microscope after handling carbon fiber!
@veldhuizenhenk8 күн бұрын
Amazing!! 1 point of critique: the red stripe is not totally accurate.
@Mrddrichards9 күн бұрын
One of my pet peeves, people believing that , that's all there is to it. Talking about people believing they can get good quality parts without bringing it into CAD to create a model with clean and smooth surfaces and clean and accurate features instead of using scanning software to fill holes and estimate voids in the scan.
@Top-Jimmy9 күн бұрын
Great piece of kit, The price though?!? AU $1,200 is rather steep but I know nothing about 3d Scanners. Can you get cheaper scanners to do the same job? Excellent video mate, Thankyou. Jimbo - Australia.
@rcprinter8 күн бұрын
I'm sure you can, I believe the ferret would do almost as well.
@user-lr9jf7zm9q10 күн бұрын
Should we buy a separate traxxas gear
@rcprinter8 күн бұрын
yeah you need to get the traxxas gears separately for this model.
@sahityabodra141212 күн бұрын
Broo can u send me file..... 😢
@rcprinter8 күн бұрын
www.printables.com/model/119715-robak-2-rc-car
@jtclark527414 күн бұрын
I wonder what an MJet M35 integrated into Skippy would do. 😛 LOL
@rcprinter13 күн бұрын
"make your Skippy fly..."
@jtclark527413 күн бұрын
🤣
@williambailey901214 күн бұрын
What’s the wheelbase of this little RC? I have a 1/12th 3D printed body but I am unsure how to match it to an R/C frame.
@jacobmills782414 күн бұрын
This is a way better method of making an outboard for RC. I see so many prop drive outboards for 3D printing but they are all complex, weak, and use lots of non-3D printed parts. I started printing a boat yesterday and ended up settling for a regular prop shaft. If only I had seen this :(
@rcprinter14 күн бұрын
Check out the mjet supersprint. We have build kits (and a video) coming soon!
@MCsCreations14 күн бұрын
Pretty nice looking boat, dude! 😃 But you should 3d print a ninja Turtle to put in the driving seat!!! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
@rcprinter14 күн бұрын
Lol, thanks man! Ninja turtle would be sick!
@kihgu14 күн бұрын
the fact he didnt want to sell his designs first but becouse the skeeride became so popular he wanted a piece of the cake and released his files
@efrenlopez9214 күн бұрын
No lie, I just realized I have been playing this video over and over just to hear the 2nd song (Sand Drizzles). Good stuff thanks you for doing this!
@rcprinter8 күн бұрын
Glad you're enjoying the tunes :)
@henriquehightom142215 күн бұрын
Hi friend. The tires you can made by 3D print tire mold and put silicone inside, some materiais to reforce, and some dust if you want this tire more hard
@rcprinter8 күн бұрын
yeah that would be much better.
@American.Divergent16 күн бұрын
I read the a can of spray dry shampoo works too and cheap.
@rcprinter8 күн бұрын
definitely something to try
@tagertu17 күн бұрын
what engine did you use, how much hv. I installed 6s 1400kV and there was an air bubble in the propeller and the boat did not gain speed.
@bobbylapointe233417 күн бұрын
What is the runtime with this setup ?
@Top-Jimmy17 күн бұрын
Perfect mate! Subbed.
@carloshnunez18 күн бұрын
Very nice 🔵🔵🔵🙂🙂🙂👍👍👍🔵🔵🔵
@panhem714919 күн бұрын
Hey does your wing shift when moving the wing by hand?
@Albertosf19 күн бұрын
Hi! I had the same problem with the servo arm/horn. Where did you get the plastic one? or did you just printed it?
@rcprinter8 күн бұрын
I just used one of the plastic ones that came with the servo.
@MaderPhilipp19 күн бұрын
You would need 3 scans, otherwhise a 60000€ scanner can also not merge it. In my opinion these Carbon Fiber Filaments are not the best to achieve maximum strength. To realy make a 3d print strong with CF you have to go for a Markforged Printer which can make the parts fiber enforced with real endless CF fibers. The strength of this Filaments with CF splinters is to make Lightweight parts but if you compare Nylon CF to Nylon plane. Nylon will outperform the CF splinter Nylon composite Part.
@Splarkszter10 күн бұрын
This crabon fiber BS is just annoying. The only reason it's strong is because is used as fibers and then sealed in resin.
@jhaybz2919 күн бұрын
can this be printed entirely with PLA+? oh and also the FS Racing Differentials is absolutely hard to find, will an HSP differential or a ZD Racing 1/10 differential work?
@rcprinter8 күн бұрын
you can print everything in pla+ except I'd print the motor mount in something more heat resistant like abs or petg. We sell the diffs here: rcprinter.com/products/1-10-scale-rc-metal-differential-for-mkultra or you can get them in one of our kits here: rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-build-kits
@jhaybz2919 күн бұрын
Hey man, I know this is a video from 2yrs ago but will you also look into Jackmass's FENNEC RC buggy~ my unfortunate problem with this buggy is actually the metal differentials is pretty hard to come by (and is somehow overpriced on many stores in my country) the FENNEC uses a much more common HSP/Redcat Differentials (and is actually no options for a 3d printed one) You can also use the differentials from Red Cat's Volcano EPX Monster Truck (the 1/10 scale monster truck) and those RC Trucks were recently revived and reproduced so parts support for those RCs are still around
@egabia565420 күн бұрын
with❤ you can do anything
@aaronsisson199423 күн бұрын
I have zero knowledge on 3D scanners, although I'm obviously here looking to get one in the future. Since you said the scanner has issues scanning black parts, why not spray the part with temp paint? Such as Plasti-dip (they have a ton of colors) , it dries and peels off when your done, assuming you do a good job painting, it will peel off very easily, of course little thru holes and what not may need a little extra "help". Just a thought, I could be completely wrong for who knows what reason, but I'm all ears. If anyone tries it, lmk if it works.
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
That would likely work as long as it comes off easily. Foot spray powder works pretty easily.
@IlicIlija25 күн бұрын
What 3d printer are you using?
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
Prusa i3 MK3S
@IlicIlija4 күн бұрын
Thanks you😊
@akshajabhay26 күн бұрын
Does this have a differential?
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
No this one does not.
@akshajabhay27 күн бұрын
What size belt are you using
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-belts
@akshajabhay27 күн бұрын
Is this having a locked differential?
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
Tarmo 5 uses a locked rear diff and is 2wd
@JamesInSpace91429 күн бұрын
It would really help if you would get actual measurements of servos' stall torque and speed rather than relying on manufacturer's specs which are often inflated. A simple test could also be devised to measure centering accuracy.
@Khaledk1Ай бұрын
الحقيقه انك اسطوره
@soma_rcАй бұрын
CF filaments can wear out your printer nozzle pretty fast. Make sure you have a hardened one.
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
Thanks for the tip!
@JimmyMackey-ty3huАй бұрын
Really great, Nice video 👍😊 I recommend you check out Jackmass' models, especially the Trophy truck and truggy, they are insane, personal experience 😄.
@yashnivalkar1131Ай бұрын
There is huge problem with this model bro it wont go reverse. I am using bidirectional 30A ESC.
@rav3n92522 күн бұрын
Unless you fit a reverse bucket it will never reverse mate, Not a huge problem with the design, Just a feature of jet boats, haven't had any issues with mine
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
Yup Rav3n is right. No reverse on these or any other RC jet boat I've built so far.
@lyndonfoster1090Ай бұрын
Thank you. Excellent explanations for anyone and especially new people like me! Great idea and super useful. I hope it gets lots of views.
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@seansz28Ай бұрын
To help scan the other side use a geometry rich object like a printed maker tower or a couple crumpled up towel with the board up on its edge that way when you go around to the back side, the scanner can hold onto the additional geometry
@Todestelzer29 күн бұрын
Yeah, scanning targets with or without marker dots, crumbled blue painter tape or clay.
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
Crumbled painter tape is a great suggestion thanks!
@TheBenroccАй бұрын
can i ask waht kind of paint u used for green ? thanks , great job , im just finished printing
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
I think it was this one... www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rust-oleum-painter-s-touch-2x-ultra-cover-multi-purpose-aerosol-spray-paint-primer-gloss-340-g-0482308p.0482471.html?colorCode=PAINT_PREMIXED_COLOUR_Keylime
@TheBenrocc20 күн бұрын
@@rcprinter thanks man , what a great build , not a fan of the motor mount but will see how she does
@rupadas4564Ай бұрын
Hello I need a koenigsegg STL file please
@rupadas456418 күн бұрын
Please send send me STL file
@justinmurphy2227Ай бұрын
As for filament, I've been looking into PP-CF for my printed RC part. Polypropylene Carbon Fiber. It's properties and specs, on paper, look phenomenal. I have some on its way an can't wait to put it to the test.
@justinmurphy2227Ай бұрын
I know there's a lot of focus on the materials but what about this freak'n scanner?!?! I'm so impressed with how well it turned out! It doesn't seem like you had to do any "computer" clean up work. Like scaling or removing random artifacts that I've seen show up in other scanned parts before. Some will say it's expensive but if its really this good, and you have a business in this field, how could you not afford to be without one now?
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
yeah its pretty awesome. I honestly was blown away I just scanned and printed and it came out perfect. There are sometimes other artifacts that show up but its pretty simple to clean up in the Creality Scan software. I think the Ferret would probably do almost as good and is also cheaper but I haven't tried it yet.
@RooboticsАй бұрын
For this particular part, I'd be tempted to print it on it's end so the opening of the joint-holes are facing the Z-plane, the side that has less of a slant is more ideal so it's less support material used. It would be best if the webbing/spine in the part had chamfering to drop those as overhangs. But the main idea is make the holes as structural as possible by being full loops, if you start getting any layer-splits consider trying that, else good layer adhesion!
You don't want 100% infill you want some give, I think 70% is the same strength as 100%, you want some give you don't want the parts to be too stiff they're just going to snap.
@Todestelzer29 күн бұрын
Over 40% infill there is no benefit in strength. If you want strong parts use a many walls as possible and be aware of the part orientation for printing. If you want a part absorbing shocks use a different material. PETG for example instead of PC, PLA or ABS. Or PA12, 98A TPU, PP.
@NoMercyFtw29 күн бұрын
@@Todestelzer okay yeah I knew it wasn't 100% for some reason I thought it was 70
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
I suppose I'll have to do some more testing but anecdotally RC parts at 100% infill seem to have longer life for me.
@NoMercyFtw20 күн бұрын
@@rcprinter yeah 100% info especially with a part that's going to be taking an impact you don't want to be too stiff unless you want that the part to break instead of another part that's connected to it
@SteveWBАй бұрын
In combat robotics we use a lot of Polymaker polymax pla. Very strong and easy to print.
@Todestelzer29 күн бұрын
Wouldn’t PA or PC be better? PC would be harder and PA less likely to break.
@PoulpcАй бұрын
wow 3D scanners have come a long way, last time i tryde 3d scan something was with the kinect for xbox 360 🤣
@rcprinter20 күн бұрын
haha, I still have one of those old kinects collecting dust hoping I can find a use for it one day :)
@MCsCreationsАй бұрын
Fantastic, dude! Thanks a bunch for all the testing! 😃 You can also try different infil geometries. Some are definitely stronger than others! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Пікірлер
Hello! How much KV on motor?
Could we get the model files?
Actually, I did this, but the effect was not ideal. First, when two ESCs share one battery, the voltage drops very quickly, and it can only last for about ten seconds before it starts to slow down significantly. In addition, it brings a bigger splash, making the hull more flooded. But I still hope that you can give a more optimized solution, thank you!
where did you get fitting for the water to exit side of boat
Check your fingers with a microscope after handling carbon fiber!
Amazing!! 1 point of critique: the red stripe is not totally accurate.
One of my pet peeves, people believing that , that's all there is to it. Talking about people believing they can get good quality parts without bringing it into CAD to create a model with clean and smooth surfaces and clean and accurate features instead of using scanning software to fill holes and estimate voids in the scan.
Great piece of kit, The price though?!? AU $1,200 is rather steep but I know nothing about 3d Scanners. Can you get cheaper scanners to do the same job? Excellent video mate, Thankyou. Jimbo - Australia.
I'm sure you can, I believe the ferret would do almost as well.
Should we buy a separate traxxas gear
yeah you need to get the traxxas gears separately for this model.
Broo can u send me file..... 😢
www.printables.com/model/119715-robak-2-rc-car
I wonder what an MJet M35 integrated into Skippy would do. 😛 LOL
"make your Skippy fly..."
🤣
What’s the wheelbase of this little RC? I have a 1/12th 3D printed body but I am unsure how to match it to an R/C frame.
This is a way better method of making an outboard for RC. I see so many prop drive outboards for 3D printing but they are all complex, weak, and use lots of non-3D printed parts. I started printing a boat yesterday and ended up settling for a regular prop shaft. If only I had seen this :(
Check out the mjet supersprint. We have build kits (and a video) coming soon!
Pretty nice looking boat, dude! 😃 But you should 3d print a ninja Turtle to put in the driving seat!!! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Lol, thanks man! Ninja turtle would be sick!
the fact he didnt want to sell his designs first but becouse the skeeride became so popular he wanted a piece of the cake and released his files
No lie, I just realized I have been playing this video over and over just to hear the 2nd song (Sand Drizzles). Good stuff thanks you for doing this!
Glad you're enjoying the tunes :)
Hi friend. The tires you can made by 3D print tire mold and put silicone inside, some materiais to reforce, and some dust if you want this tire more hard
yeah that would be much better.
I read the a can of spray dry shampoo works too and cheap.
definitely something to try
what engine did you use, how much hv. I installed 6s 1400kV and there was an air bubble in the propeller and the boat did not gain speed.
What is the runtime with this setup ?
Perfect mate! Subbed.
Very nice 🔵🔵🔵🙂🙂🙂👍👍👍🔵🔵🔵
Hey does your wing shift when moving the wing by hand?
Hi! I had the same problem with the servo arm/horn. Where did you get the plastic one? or did you just printed it?
I just used one of the plastic ones that came with the servo.
You would need 3 scans, otherwhise a 60000€ scanner can also not merge it. In my opinion these Carbon Fiber Filaments are not the best to achieve maximum strength. To realy make a 3d print strong with CF you have to go for a Markforged Printer which can make the parts fiber enforced with real endless CF fibers. The strength of this Filaments with CF splinters is to make Lightweight parts but if you compare Nylon CF to Nylon plane. Nylon will outperform the CF splinter Nylon composite Part.
This crabon fiber BS is just annoying. The only reason it's strong is because is used as fibers and then sealed in resin.
can this be printed entirely with PLA+? oh and also the FS Racing Differentials is absolutely hard to find, will an HSP differential or a ZD Racing 1/10 differential work?
you can print everything in pla+ except I'd print the motor mount in something more heat resistant like abs or petg. We sell the diffs here: rcprinter.com/products/1-10-scale-rc-metal-differential-for-mkultra or you can get them in one of our kits here: rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-build-kits
Hey man, I know this is a video from 2yrs ago but will you also look into Jackmass's FENNEC RC buggy~ my unfortunate problem with this buggy is actually the metal differentials is pretty hard to come by (and is somehow overpriced on many stores in my country) the FENNEC uses a much more common HSP/Redcat Differentials (and is actually no options for a 3d printed one) You can also use the differentials from Red Cat's Volcano EPX Monster Truck (the 1/10 scale monster truck) and those RC Trucks were recently revived and reproduced so parts support for those RCs are still around
with❤ you can do anything
I have zero knowledge on 3D scanners, although I'm obviously here looking to get one in the future. Since you said the scanner has issues scanning black parts, why not spray the part with temp paint? Such as Plasti-dip (they have a ton of colors) , it dries and peels off when your done, assuming you do a good job painting, it will peel off very easily, of course little thru holes and what not may need a little extra "help". Just a thought, I could be completely wrong for who knows what reason, but I'm all ears. If anyone tries it, lmk if it works.
That would likely work as long as it comes off easily. Foot spray powder works pretty easily.
What 3d printer are you using?
Prusa i3 MK3S
Thanks you😊
Does this have a differential?
No this one does not.
What size belt are you using
rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-belts
Is this having a locked differential?
Tarmo 5 uses a locked rear diff and is 2wd
It would really help if you would get actual measurements of servos' stall torque and speed rather than relying on manufacturer's specs which are often inflated. A simple test could also be devised to measure centering accuracy.
الحقيقه انك اسطوره
CF filaments can wear out your printer nozzle pretty fast. Make sure you have a hardened one.
Thanks for the tip!
Really great, Nice video 👍😊 I recommend you check out Jackmass' models, especially the Trophy truck and truggy, they are insane, personal experience 😄.
There is huge problem with this model bro it wont go reverse. I am using bidirectional 30A ESC.
Unless you fit a reverse bucket it will never reverse mate, Not a huge problem with the design, Just a feature of jet boats, haven't had any issues with mine
Yup Rav3n is right. No reverse on these or any other RC jet boat I've built so far.
Thank you. Excellent explanations for anyone and especially new people like me! Great idea and super useful. I hope it gets lots of views.
Glad it was helpful!
To help scan the other side use a geometry rich object like a printed maker tower or a couple crumpled up towel with the board up on its edge that way when you go around to the back side, the scanner can hold onto the additional geometry
Yeah, scanning targets with or without marker dots, crumbled blue painter tape or clay.
Crumbled painter tape is a great suggestion thanks!
can i ask waht kind of paint u used for green ? thanks , great job , im just finished printing
I think it was this one... www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rust-oleum-painter-s-touch-2x-ultra-cover-multi-purpose-aerosol-spray-paint-primer-gloss-340-g-0482308p.0482471.html?colorCode=PAINT_PREMIXED_COLOUR_Keylime
@@rcprinter thanks man , what a great build , not a fan of the motor mount but will see how she does
Hello I need a koenigsegg STL file please
Please send send me STL file
As for filament, I've been looking into PP-CF for my printed RC part. Polypropylene Carbon Fiber. It's properties and specs, on paper, look phenomenal. I have some on its way an can't wait to put it to the test.
I know there's a lot of focus on the materials but what about this freak'n scanner?!?! I'm so impressed with how well it turned out! It doesn't seem like you had to do any "computer" clean up work. Like scaling or removing random artifacts that I've seen show up in other scanned parts before. Some will say it's expensive but if its really this good, and you have a business in this field, how could you not afford to be without one now?
yeah its pretty awesome. I honestly was blown away I just scanned and printed and it came out perfect. There are sometimes other artifacts that show up but its pretty simple to clean up in the Creality Scan software. I think the Ferret would probably do almost as good and is also cheaper but I haven't tried it yet.
For this particular part, I'd be tempted to print it on it's end so the opening of the joint-holes are facing the Z-plane, the side that has less of a slant is more ideal so it's less support material used. It would be best if the webbing/spine in the part had chamfering to drop those as overhangs. But the main idea is make the holes as structural as possible by being full loops, if you start getting any layer-splits consider trying that, else good layer adhesion!
What diff is that you use bud
rcprinter.com/products/1-10-scale-rc-metal-differential-for-mkultra
You don't want 100% infill you want some give, I think 70% is the same strength as 100%, you want some give you don't want the parts to be too stiff they're just going to snap.
Over 40% infill there is no benefit in strength. If you want strong parts use a many walls as possible and be aware of the part orientation for printing. If you want a part absorbing shocks use a different material. PETG for example instead of PC, PLA or ABS. Or PA12, 98A TPU, PP.
@@Todestelzer okay yeah I knew it wasn't 100% for some reason I thought it was 70
I suppose I'll have to do some more testing but anecdotally RC parts at 100% infill seem to have longer life for me.
@@rcprinter yeah 100% info especially with a part that's going to be taking an impact you don't want to be too stiff unless you want that the part to break instead of another part that's connected to it
In combat robotics we use a lot of Polymaker polymax pla. Very strong and easy to print.
Wouldn’t PA or PC be better? PC would be harder and PA less likely to break.
wow 3D scanners have come a long way, last time i tryde 3d scan something was with the kinect for xbox 360 🤣
haha, I still have one of those old kinects collecting dust hoping I can find a use for it one day :)
Fantastic, dude! Thanks a bunch for all the testing! 😃 You can also try different infil geometries. Some are definitely stronger than others! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for the tips!