Thanks to your video, I'm starting the MK3 this wintertime. As a thank you for this build guide, I'm ordering one of your build kits. Keep it up!

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

That's awesome thanks for the support! Enjoy the build!

@matthewhaynes7375

Жыл бұрын

is there a newer version of this? I can only find the one on cults

Hello from the UK, I stumbled across you video as I was trying to sauce parts for my own build, now looking at one of you kits as the prices are very competitive, love the channel and already thinking of what build to do next.

@rcprinter

3 ай бұрын

Thanks!

Amazing work

@rcprinter

2 ай бұрын

Thank you! Cheers!

Nice and helpful video as always - would never have figured out all the screw sizes ;-)

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

Glad it helped. The screw sizes are only my interpretation of what they should be so similar sizes will likely work in many cases.

Nice build video

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

Thanks bud!

This is awesome.

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Thank you. Good video!

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

Glad you liked it!

Thank you for this video. I've been having a hard time building mine.

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

Glad I could help. Its not the simplest build in the world so hopefully this makes it easier.

@The0nionKnight

Жыл бұрын

@@rcprinter I finished the build, and it works! BTW, I bought your kit with all parts included about a year ago (before you included the brass tubing). I only just now finished the build because of this video. I'm going to order the metal diff. just a precaution. The one I printed out of Alloy 910 nylon seems to be holding up though.

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

@@The0nionKnight hey that's great! For me it was the bells on the sides of the diff that went rather than the gears but hopefully yours holds up a while.

@The0nionKnight

Жыл бұрын

@@rcprinter Thank you. I got the metal diffs in the mail. The front metal diffs don't work with the Quanum Vandal front CVD's; theyre too short. Does that mean I have to use the adjustable driveshafts ?

Why is there no clutch and servo saver to protect the drivetrain? Also personally id use metal ball links over 3d printed.

Just found your channel and love it. Going to order a kit soon and take on one of these builds. I’m looking at this one or robak 2. Which one would you go with? Or maybe another model? Thanks I’m advance. Also would printing this in Asa or nylon be workable?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

Hey they're both great cars. The robak is beefier and has an all metal drivetrain. The mkultra is a smaller belt driven buggy. Personally I like the buggy better but it depends what you're looking for.

Thank you for the videos. Of all Racing Buggies you built, which one you like the most and its most durable? Thank you

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

This one for sure

Is there a particular reason to use cylinder head screws? I've got a lot of the M3 screws from previous projects but they're round head. Would it make a significant difference? Thanks for the great build video!!

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

The design has recesses for the heads of the cylinder screws. The button head screws might be a bit too wide but you could make them work.

Love the video , I printed the original designs you said theres a new tensioner at the front and rear are there new files on Cults ? Or are the on the Forum ?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

They're included in the files now if you download them.

What size print bed do you need for this project? Would a prusa mini be up to the task (180 x 180 x 180 mm)?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

yup should be. Just checked and the chassis will fit on the plate and I'm certain that's the biggest part.

where did you get those screwdriver tips? Thanks and great work on this stuff.

@rcprinter

3 ай бұрын

Those are MIPS speed tips... they're pretty expensive but you can get cheap hex driver tips on amazon.

Hi there. This is on my list of builds for sure. Ill start with the F1 probably. Eventually Ill build his M Car and Badger. Can you get any parts for those? Also, to tune your printer for accuracy, did you do anything besides E steps? Thanks

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

I mostly use my Prusa i3 mk3s printers and they're pretty accurate so i don't really do anything other than the auto calibration. I have some ender 3s as well and after calibrating esteps and adding bltouchs they're pretty accurate too.

@fpvstomper7020

Жыл бұрын

@RC Printer sweet, your down the road at the shuswap, im in kamloops. Small world.

Love the design, How much would it cost approx to print pin yourself and get your own parts? Looking for a nice fit project

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

Well, 1 roll of filament. Then you have to add in fasteners/bearings/servo/motor/esc and we have a kit for that which is $175. rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-build-kits Then you'll need belts ($12), diffs ($50), Driveshafts ($20) which we also sell. Then you'll need shocks ($30), Pinion/Spur ($20), wheels ($20) and then whatever you want to go with for batteries, chargers, receivers, transmitters which hopefully you already have from other cars but maybe not if this is your first build. So minimum $275-300 or so depending on what components you choose. More likely 300-$350 if you bring your own Tx. Then you can go waaay up from there depending on how fancy you wanna get.

Great video! I am going to make my own, and i am looking at springs. What size should i get?

@Wietz1000

Жыл бұрын

I mean shocks offcourse :)

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

For shocks it calls for 81mm in the rear and 91mm in the front (eye to eye). cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/mkultra-3d-printable-1-10-4wd-buggy

just bought your kit for this model and everything was going great till i got the the links i cant get them to stay on the ball links they are way to tight or just pop off i must have reprinted them 5 times do you have any advise how i can get them to work or maybe some links i can print like the open f-1 rc or something i can buy? thanks for offering the kit with drive shafts and diff. it made the build fun up to these links

@vincenttuttle3643

Жыл бұрын

i found a team associated tie rod set with ball ends for the dr10 kit i have and that work out so nice they went in great i drilled the m2 holes out to m3 and it is so much smoother it did add weight

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

Hey I think lots of people end up moving to manufactured ball ends for the same reason. I'm still running the printed ones and they do pop off every now and then. PETG might make better ball ends than PLA because its more flexible and will bend back into its original shape whereas once PLA bends it likes to stay there.

So the complete max kit online that u sell is missing what exactly? Ran across your videos but dont have a 3d printer and would love to build the max 4x4 van

@rcprinter

5 ай бұрын

Our max kit doesn't include radio controller/receiver, tires, battery/charger, electrical wiring bits, window plastic, lube/ solder/threadlocker. Check the 3dsets list here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qJsxQu0FI6UC8y0_C5d2Fdbl568DwP7dJHV4J_-2tOU/

Im looking to buy a Ender 3 , so my question is how long would it take to print out this chassis/car? thanks

@rcprinter

11 ай бұрын

I'm not certain total print time but at least a couple of days of printing.

are the M2 screws supposed to thread into the ID of the 3mm rod to secure it? The M2 screws just slip in the ID for me. Also is there anywhere with STEP files of the CAD instead of just the STL print files?

@rcprinter

Ай бұрын

Hey, no I think the m2 screws you're referring to are to stop the hinge pins (rod) from sliding out and they go through the 3d plastic and hit the rod from the side. I don't believe the STEP files are available anywhere AFAIK.

what size are the 2 differentials can i get them on amazon?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

Yes, you can get them on amazon, look for a diff by fsracing 511687 but we also sell them here: rcprinter.com/products/1-10-scale-rc-metal-differential-for-mkultra You'll need the adjustable driveshafts as well: rcprinter.com/products/4-driveshaft-set-for-mkultra

can this be printed entirely with PLA+? oh and also the FS Racing Differentials is absolutely hard to find, will an HSP differential or a ZD Racing 1/10 differential work?

@rcprinter

8 күн бұрын

you can print everything in pla+ except I'd print the motor mount in something more heat resistant like abs or petg. We sell the diffs here: rcprinter.com/products/1-10-scale-rc-metal-differential-for-mkultra or you can get them in one of our kits here: rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-build-kits

What's the top speed. And can I somehow change the gearbox

@rcprinter

6 ай бұрын

not sure on top speed but if you want to change the gearing you could try a different layshaft, different pinion, different spur.

Are self tapping screws needed for this build?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

Nope, just regular metric screws

@benb.1273

Жыл бұрын

@@rcprinter Awesome, thank you! Not my first 3d printed project but it is the first to need to be screwed together.

How durable is it? Like can it go over a jump and not break? If it rolls, does it break?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

It's not quite as durable as an injection molded car but it's close. My son and I were bashing these around yesterday and we crashed them directly into eachother pretty hard and nothing broke but just a top suspension arm popped off. When I roll them usually nothing happens except the rear wing will crack a bit more each time, I should probably print it out of something a little more flexible like petg.

@ripmax333

Жыл бұрын

I guess it also depends on where are you planning to drive them? if on grass I think they will be robust enough to take some abuse but on rough terrain like small rocks etc IMO forget it, it will take a hit or two but its not an injection moulded car, on rougher terrain it would break unless you print certain parts like the shock tower and lower parts from hard shore TPU. I think in that way it will take more durable.

just wandering ... Sombody calculated how much this costs ? ... to compare with an out of a box kit / build car ... of course they both have benefits ...

@rcprinter

8 ай бұрын

Its all about the enjoyment of the build for me :) You can definitely buy a better car.

Roughly how much did it cost you to print the parts.? Not the motor/esc/radio/servo, just the printed parts.

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

the whole thing is less than 1 roll of filament which is about $20.

Can I use GT2 or HTD belt?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

They would likely work at this small scale but I can't say for sure.

Can you please upload all the files of the upgraded rc jet boat?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328520 here's the main files. All I added were a few small tinkers... TPU Cover seal: www.tinkercad.com/things/ehAVoYtd1jL TPU Servo seal: www.tinkercad.com/things/beES4gdfuWc ABS Motor mount: www.tinkercad.com/things/fZYOfry3xQD

@divyanshjinger1587

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much!!

What is the pitch of the belt?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

I use these belts that are STD profile. rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-belts?_pos=2&_psq=mkultr&_ss=e&_v=1.0

I would like to create this car but I'm afraid I won't find all the parts from France, it takes a lot, I've already created a 3D RC boat but it was much easier next door ^^ Good video

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

It's a great car but there are definitely simpler builds out there. It's worth it though if you want something with enhanced performance. We have kits at www.rcprinter.com if you can't find what you need locally.

@sebgln

Жыл бұрын

@@rcprinter I want a high-performance and above all resistant car. I know your site but the complete kits do not include the elements that are difficult to find such as the suspension part etc...

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

@@sebgln Yeah are kits are growing over time but we don't have shocks yet unfortunately. MkUltra is a good bet for a performance RC. You could also take a look at the Robak2 if you want something with bigger truck-like tires and a full metal drivetrain/steering. I hope to have kits for Robak 2 soon as well.

@sebgln

Жыл бұрын

@@rcprinter Oh that cool, I have discover Robak 2 yesterday, I think I'm go to build it. I don't know if Robak 2 are speedy ?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

@@sebgln I haven't played with mine too much yet but it should be speedy. I hope to do more testing on it in the next few weeks and I should have a video on it then.

Are you printing all the parts in PLA??

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

yes, except for the motor mount which is abs or petg. Its also better if you print the rear wing out of PETG or something a bit more flexible.

What size belt are you using

@rcprinter

20 күн бұрын

rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-belts

my pla chassis is deforming due to temperature, do you have any problem with that?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

never had that issue.

@ripmax333

Жыл бұрын

what's the bed temp that you are using? 60deg? if so raise the temp by 5 more deg. if the problem still persists make sure that the bed is well cleaned and try to use a simple enclosure. if a cardboard box or a simple garbage bag over the printer will do. if you have a temp gauge on the printer make sure that the temp is stable inside with no Air drafts going on the print.

@dethdron

Жыл бұрын

@@ripmax333 I mean the chassis is deformed by the temperature of the engine while driving

@ripmax333

Жыл бұрын

@@dethdron the chassis??, sure its not just the motor mount? If the whole thing is deforming could be also a long exposure to sunlight UV or leaving the car in a very hot enviroment, for ex in the car boot during transit or parked in a parking lot during a hot day.

Funny name

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

agreed :)

Where are the stl files?

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/mkultra-3d-printable-1-10-4wd-buggy

i just found this youtube channel TomasHubik1, if you want to print crazy small Rc car, look him up

@rcprinter

Жыл бұрын

wow those are neat, super fun little projects. 1/32 is very small. might have to try one someday.