Hello there, I'm Aiden, and I'm knee-deep in the exhilarating adventure of constructing my own dream home. As I scoured the internet for inspiration, I stumbled upon a surprising gap: there seemed to be a scarcity of comprehensive resources catering to individuals embarking on the journey of crafting their custom-built abode. Determined to fill this void, I took it upon myself to blaze a trail and launched my very own DIY KZread channel.
My mission? To ignite the flames of creativity and motivation in others by generously sharing the highs, lows, and everything in between of my self-build escapade. Through my channel, I aspire to offer a beacon of guidance and inspiration, serving as a testament that with passion, perseverance, and a sprinkle of ingenuity, anyone can transform their vision of a perfect home into a tangible reality.
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Your mastic should have been a little deeper (half the width) and did you know you can buy tooling sticks from the manufacturer's. Tooling being the main word not spreading it in a mess.
Good work. I'm glad i came across this problem because im going to be building a full face brick house and all external walls are worked to whole brick dimensions so theres less random cuts. My windows and doors are bound to fall on the perps lining up with the outer edges. Do you think the metal lath is best used or do they do a proper fixing for face brick
They used screws because you can take it off with ease to fix their work.
Nice caulk bro.
Fucked up doing that in my bathroom after watching a tiler.. And the plumber does it everyday in new job so I'm glad I saw this. Can you for example do it like your last pass and then spray to tidy it up if it's shit lol or is spray your tools the go?
Did you name your pug, pig?
Where are the milk crates buried underground?
Years from now, you’ll look back on this and say to yourself, this is when you screwed up your shoulder! Only joking! I did stuff like this when I was younger. When I did something like this when I was sixty! Yikes! What do you mean I fractured my foot?
We don’t have floors(block & beam) like this in the US. That’s why it seems odd to us here!
Not a fix suggestion, but have you considered a decorative window film? Don't need to do the whole pane. A tasteful horizontal band at the height of the crack across the folding doors might even be nice to look at.
Thermalite for a weight bearing load?
Great demo of what to do. Thanks!
You shouldnt fart near your windows!
Went out without Any water without His phone in the midday sun in an extreme heat wave Any detective will have a good idea what’s going on after the initial perimeter search basically this is an island Look to the boats
Good job. I am curious if filling the holes with expansive concrete repair mortar + bonding agent gets a better result, since that is closer to the original material and it is easier to drill
Don't see why that couldn't work 👍
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT thanks for this video. The question of what to do with oversized holes in concrete is all over internet with a lot of theories saying yes or no, but this is real.
Good luck mate
Was looking forward to a Skill Builder collab, would be cool to have a full one. Glass does look better, even if not ideal. I'd imagine a better vacuum pull and compression would have dealt with the bubbles, like resin casting.
I'm not sure they would be interested in coming here again as the video from when Dylan came here didn't do that well 😅
I'm an average knobhead, I did my bathroom about 20 years ago and all the silicone is still in place and good working order. No soap or anything else involved.
Where’s Roger?
I'm also wanting to set my UPVC frames back by 25mm into the cavity but I didnt realise you can use the metal window straps under the cill too, I thought they were just for the sides. Why did you choose expanding foam tape around the frame over insulating expanding foam from a gun like illbruck 330? When the inner and outer walls are the same height at window openings, then you add the cill to the outer leaf, an off cut I got has the cill at 35mm high where the window frame sits on it, so I'd need a really thick internal timber window board. How have you got round this issue?
Yeah you can use the straps anywhere you like 😉 it's abit easier with uPVC as you can easily use the universal straps if the manufacturer hasn't got specific ones that twist into the profiles. I've used the illbruck expanding foam on some windows on the other side where I've got block to render. For the brick side I thought it might look better to use the expanding foam tape rather than try and get a good silicone finish against the brick. The foam tape is alot easier when you're using the straps so you don't have to mess about with foam in a can and silicone, it saves time and is tidy. Although because I had to direct fix on that side and f'ed up some of the expanding foam tape I'll be covering it up with some aluminium flat bar beading 🙈 With regards to the window boards I'm not that far in yet, but really you should be insulating your reveals including the bottom. I'll likely be using eps backed plasterboard. So that will bump up the bottom before you put a window board in. I'm thinking of doing abit of an experiment with the eps tile backer boards and microcementing them, so I'd be having thicker window boards anyway 😅 no idea if I can pull that off
at 1:48 would you not be applying air tight tape to the 90 degree angle where the 2 closers meet so any water running down the vertical wouldn't get out anyway?
I'll be putting the tape on (not got to that point just yet) but that's after I've already put the windows in, so just the back section will be sealed. The windows overlap 30mm into the cavity so unless you've really f'ed up, water shouldn't be getting that far back
Never listen to this fake guru! Use glass cleaner! Period!!
sometimes feathering a flame from a lighter can run the crack back in on itself, won't hide it permanently just long enough to get paid.. 🥺😂
No way?! 🤯
If you're going to replace the glass then better to wait until the house and landscaping is finished, saves smashing it again with a falling file or wheelbarrow or scaffolding or an angrily thrown broken Ryobee 👍so in five years 😂😘
Haha, I doubt I'll be able to get the same glass at that point 🙈
To be honest Aiden, once all your building work is completed maybe replace the pane and be done with!👍
I'll polish it up at some point and then live with it until I'm nearer the end. I might just learn to live with it as is without replacing it 😆 looks like this video will only earn 20 quid so I won't be buying another pane any time soon 😅
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT a whole Score... at least you can buy some ships for Tea! 😂
Very interesting chap. I'm looking for a quick method to line out my Hugh workshop with OSB. will these fixing work on breeze block or is the open nature of the block too weak. Many thanks and good luck with the self build. Cheers Peter
Hi Peter, you can use these in aerated concrete blocks just fine. You just have to make sure you've pilot drilled past the depth of the screw otherwise if it bottoms out it'll strip. Also, if you forget to pilot the screw still goes in but it'll just act like a drill bit instead of cutting a thread so don't forget 😆Personally I've used the 6mm ones in lightweight blocks to fix my window and door strapping. The one I showed in this video is the bigger type. They do them in Screwfix > easydrive tx countersunk concrete screws 6mm
Perfect......thank you. Just made my life a ton easier...
I think that getting the glass horizontal would have done a much better job.
Yeah I think so too
Ah the joys of self building. It's the gift that keeps on giving, there's always something that needs sorting. We've been in for nearly two months now and I though when we lived here it would get easier for getting things done but I think it's actually got worse as I constantly look around the house and see everything that still needs doing. It will all get done eventually though. Another great video, I didn't even realise that such kits existed. Whenever we've had a crack in the windscreen it's always been sorted on insurance. I'm assuming we'll be seeing you in a Skill Builder video at some point after seeing Rogers cameo at the start?
Naaa I've already been in a Skill Builder video a few months back 😆 Dylan lives locally to me. I just asked him if they could do me a little favour and record a little clip. I was going to use it for something else but I'm not doing that video anymore plus they kinda misinterpreted the script 😆 so I just made it work for this video instead
Naaa I've already been in a Skill Builder video a few months back 😆 Dylan lives locally to me. I just asked him if they could do me a little favour and record a little clip. I was going to use it for something else but I'm not doing that video anymore plus they kinda misinterpreted the script 😆 so I just made it work for this video instead
£3 for a bucket! Did you import a special cat water bucket or something?
In all honesty I bought that bucket 4 years ago and what with inflation and the fact that it's for cats ... 3 quid sounded about right 🤣🪣😹
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECTBut £3 for a handless bucket! If it had a handle you could have said “£3 for a Pail of Water” the algorithm would have loved that!
I’ve tried a fix like this with similar results. A repeat fill was needed to remove the dip in mine. Did polish okay but found hand polishing was more effective than a buff pad. You can still see it but it’s less irritating so I called it a win and moved on. Nice vid.
What polishing compound did you use?
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT I used some car windscreen polish I had from Auto Glym.
Roger Bisby threw a rock at your window?
🤣
You standing in front of the window at the end with a mallet on the ground I figured would mean for a different ending than what we saw lol.
I did this multiple times Aiden and the crack almost completely disappeared! Here's my unsolicited advice :P - It helps to make the valleys of the crack larger. They need to be "V" shaped so resin can flow in there without issues. - When you create the vacuum you can tap it with your finger from behind until the resin completely fills the crack. That helps the trapped air bubbles escape. - You can use the syringe both ways to push and pull the resin at your discretion. Basically create negative and/or positive vacuum. You need to look from the other side if the resin reached every valley of the crack. But don't do it aggressively otherwise you'll introduce air bubbles rather than removing them. - The transparent foil flattens the resin, pushes the excess out, and creates a small vacuum too. You should press it with your thumb slightly so that it can create a stronger vacuum (and squeeze more resin out of the sides). You can clean the excess with a rag. The stuff is very forgiving. - Laying the glass flat doesn't look necessary to me, as long the resin thing is oriented upwards. Final thing, you can still fix this and make it disappear completely. you just need to scrape the visible cracks, make it a bit larger, before you try again.
Any particular brand that you favour?
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT I believe the ones with the vacuum syringe ones are all identical. I haven't tried any of the other contraptions. Permatex is good. Plextone is the best I tried, from Amazon, but it's just because they give you A LOT of product. The half full resin bottle is still still in my garage, should I get another chip. It looks still good, it's still very liquid and clear (I just checked!).
Brave attempt - but on balance it may have come out better if you took the unit out and propped it up at angle to get the filling tube level - but then that’s two opportunities to drop the f’n thing😉👍
Yeah and these ones are 60 odd kg 🙈
Great vids mate
Cheers Aiden.... That was a smashing video! 🙄
😄
the cat fountain nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
Cheers certainly very useful info to know Hope it all gets fixed up ok.
You could have used a lighter on the back side to make it flow better, used to do that in colder weather when I worked at a windscreen repair company.
Ah that would have helped but the triple glazing is 44mm thick 😆 so couldn't really heat up the back
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Good point. Maybe a hot air gun on the front then?
@@stighds8518 yeah that might work but I'd rather go for a hairdryer 😅
Bought our cats a fancy water fountain…only for them to prefer water out of an old mug after a power cut. Lesson learned.
Just get yourself a sample polish set if you dont intend to do much polishing. Youll get all the grades, and wont have to buy huge bottles. A small foam polishing pad will be sufficient for that small repair area.
Good idea, I'll have to have a Google search 🙂
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT I have a menzerna sample set from about 10 years ago.
Literally thought I clicked on a skill builder video by accident for a sec there 😂
😆😉
Used Rainx on windscreens loads of times always with good results, but I think the glass being vertical is the issue, I'd retry it with the glass removed and laying flat. Although that's probably easier said than done.
I'll probably end up making it worse 😆 I'll try to buff up the resin and see how I feel about it from there
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT you can polish resin with a buffer wheel and some cutting compound, there probably are specific products for it but I've always used normal automotive stuff for paintwork, I'd polish it up afterwards otherwise the tiny swirl marks will be visible.
Our dozy window cleaner rubbed grit in two of our (new) windows so I wonder if this type of thing can be used to fix it? They are scratches not dips though
You wouldn't want this kind of thing, you'd need to buff it out with some kind of rubbing compound I believe
Great video as always 👍I've used the rain x windscreen repair kit on my car it was an ok finish.
I might have had better luck with that one as it apparently does more than just a bullseye
Control panel can probably be fixed.... It's what I do!
Ooo, well the panel is effectively locked out, the buttons don't do anything. It happened after putting it in vacation mode for a week 🤦 there's no reset on this one and turning it off and on makes no difference 🤷 the red led is on which means it has errors. The sequence appears to be running as normal, although I'm not sure it's discharging in the mornings. I just can't access any of the menus or manual overrides 🤷 the only thing I haven't tried is to turn it off for 24hrs to run the internal battery out and see if it'll effectively do a hard reset, although if I do that there's a risk it won't work at all 🙈 then we'll be back to the bucket 🪣 until I get a new unit. Thoughts?
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT unless there has been any water ingress, dodgy power etc sounds like a software issue, remember it has to last a reasonable amount of time for the type of system. For this I would be looking at >5 years no matter what the warrantee. What have the manufacturers said?
@@timballam3675 yeah software issue sounds right. I was talking to the technician in the UK and he said to complete the warranty claim form so he could send it off to Germany. Just waiting to hear back
We have all been there mate
Over engineered jobsworths, justify thier jobs
😆
Spot on… 💪👌
I've got a kaiweets kt360a, no problems with it, and probably on par with the Huepar (around the same price too).