The bearing with a taper outer race use to be called a WI bearing because the INNER was WHOLE = WI Great job. Might mention that the preload is set from the factory. Some mechanics believe you set the preload with the nut. Not if it is assembled correctly. The preload from the factory can determined by your RPM range.
@ROBRENZКүн бұрын
Thank you!
@naengineer3 күн бұрын
thanks god, there are still people on this platform explaining some real stuff
@robertoudokrapf4535 күн бұрын
OLÁ 14/08/24 Apenas uma sugestão: Descubra "o porque" não se lubrifica as roscas nem arruelas de parafusos. Roberto Udo Krapf
@davidgoodell42985 күн бұрын
I like it. I have never done this but I am sure in the future I will. I can see all sorts of useful variants of this...
@Iamtherodlight1453.10 күн бұрын
So awesome.
@davidrule133515 күн бұрын
Stefan is still working on his, LOL Yall do good work!
@larrykent19618 күн бұрын
Buck chucks are good tools to have. I have seen the distortion you have shown, my approach has always been to loosen all the adjusting screws and move only the one I need to move it in the direction I needed it. Then loosen it again and adjust the others as necessary until I get it running as needed. Always loosen them after adjusting them. Once the chuck is adjusted where it needs to be I snug up all the screws, one side then the other mindful to be deliberate to not skew the results.. Do this to secure the chuck in position being careful to avoid distorting the chuck while maintaining the concentric adjustment. Done it this way for the past four decades I machined and always teach others this method. This method works well and is quick. Nice chuck you have masterfully built thank you for the video.
@Bartolobot23 күн бұрын
Found lots of good information here. I'm making my own version of this tool grinder, and I got a good idea of how to design mine using what I got, except I bought the main arm/tool holder and a 25mm polished rod everything else is going to be made or salvaged stuff and raw metal. deciding what are good features to include in my design since its final shape is still very flexible. also, I have parts off a small bench drill press I will use. Is it useful to have a height adjustment on the grinding wheel? and a feed in and out on the wheel spindle? and is it useful to have angle adjustment in both x and y axis for the wheel?
@TinkerTomUK26 күн бұрын
As you can see from my profile picture I managed to buy a Hilger & watts TA1-5 DIV 0.2 arcseconds here in the UK but finding the precision mirrors for it can be very challenging so making one is the only option I have. When mounting the first surface mirror to the sled with adjustable nylon screws is it necessary to align the mirror perpendicularly to it’s base feet? if so how can you do that with the highest level of precision? Would you need to pitch lap a thick piece of glass to λ/20 to then have a dead flat surface so you can reference from to then get the mirror perpendicular? Any help would be greatly appreciated 😁
@stefankargl26 күн бұрын
Hello Robin, my comment is not specific to this video. I just wanted to thank you for sharing your knowledge and especially your thought process during your projects. When I first found your channel (Stefan Gotteswinter recommended you) I basically did not understand anything you explained or did ... it just was way to advanced for me. Well the virus caught me and I bought a lathe, mill, surface grinder, d-bit grinder, and lots and lots of tooling. Basically watched all the videos from Stefan, Tom Lipton, Joe Pie, This Old Tony and so on (sure I forgot some channels) and then again stumbled upon your videos and finally managed to understand most of what you said. Its a real pleasure to watch your videos and I learnt a lot by doing so multiple times ... even if machining is just a hobby to me it has become an important part of my life for me and thats mainly because of you and Stefan. I think you are improving the life of a lot of people. Keep on turning :-), ATB Stefan
@bobvines00Ай бұрын
Robin, this is the second time that I've watched this video -- after Stefan mentioned it in his "Toolgrinding: Radius Groove Inserts" video (July 2024). I think that I'll need to manufacture a similar mount for my shop, even though I'm not a content creator. You're either a degreed Engineer or easily put many to shame with your knowledge and skills! I hope that you are well and haven't posted recently because you are simply too busy with your business to film & edit videos. I miss your videos though! ;)
@Ujeb08Ай бұрын
Very cool positioning system you've come up with Robin! The forethoughts in your design process is amazing. Thanks for sharing
@sharpeningman9481Ай бұрын
Buy nice or buy twice
@1978planktonАй бұрын
this is the equivalent to a therapy session for a recently graduated precision mechanic apprentice. Thank you for your video
@keithkrueger1609Ай бұрын
we made a dozen sets at work. they work great. it was a great upgrade from standard stones.
@Trent-tr2nxАй бұрын
With respect to your surface preparation at 15:15, what do you think about Dan Gelbart’s favored surface prep of using Ajax to clean surfaces before finishing (covered in his powder coating video I believe)?
@Goodwithwood69Ай бұрын
Please post more !
@billshiff2060Ай бұрын
I never cared for the moore pattern scraping. I think it addresses problems that are best handled otherwise. Form(flatness usually)is usually the paramount goal and moore scraping does achieve that but at a cost. Bearing texture is also required in may sliding parts and again Moore scraping achieves that after a fashion but again, at a cost. Whitworth's scraping method achieves flatness as well or better and is faster. The Whitworth method can also achieve a good bearing surface if desired. We are 200 years past Whitworth's work and still have not evolved the process , in fact it has devolved into a search for "points". Whitworth was not trying to get "points" he was trying to get as flat as possible, points were just a by product of his method but they happened to provide a great bearing surface at the same time. The ideal surface for a bearing is to be dead flat, dead smooth and scientifically textured for lubrication and debris removal. We are not doing a good job of that with current scraping methods.
@bigbattenbergАй бұрын
Re-watching I am getting more and more ideas. I don't really need a set-tru chuck but stiffening the system with two bolt patterns is a game changer IMO. In fact a thing I have been irritated by is the fact that on the chucks I currently use, chips get caught in the annular space between the backing plate and the chuck. It gets worse because the type I have has a keyway. I was thinking about somehow filling up the space with a sealant or something but that would be so permanent it would be a huge hassle when the chuck would need disassembly. Right now I am always taking the chuck off the backing plate when swapping them. Now, I think there is a great opportunity to kill two birds with one stone. First, make a thicker chuck end/ stiffener plate that lines up with the outer mounting surface of the chuck, so there is no shoulder anymore. Then, post-machine the two in assembled condition and add bolt holes as required (for front mounting if that is not already the case). Then, machine the backing plate adding the threaded holes and get rid of the stepped shoulder. Next, mount the to together and indicate on the lathe to run dead center. Take the assembly to the drill and add to conical dowel pin holes. Add dowel pins for future alignment. For disassembly, dowel pins with internal threads may be used for a slide hammer or threaded holes may be added for pressing the pieces apart with screws. When all is done bore the (hard) jaws as is now well known. Notes: - The chuck end/ stiffener plate does not need to be an interference fit per se when the set-tru feature is not added, however I feel that it will only add to the stiffness. The plate may also be fitted with screw holes for push-off disassembly. - Making the end face of the chuck flat will make it very easy. After all making two parts with the same axial dimension on two shoulders is over-constrained by definition, with the set-tru feature it is necessary but pretty advanced skills and equipment are required to do it right.
@AbayGebremariamАй бұрын
Dear Sir Robrenz, I am Abay from Ethiopia. First of all, I thank you in advance for taking your precious time to consider my request. Could you please assist me in order to rectify 'ZANROSSO 1500Y Cylinder Block and Head Resurfacer Machine, which is giving a hyperbola surface finish. Deviation ranging 0.15/.1 mm. I couldn't even find the manual. Previously, four times other Technicians have tried to solve the problem but nothing pays off yet. Now it's my responsibility to bring the machine to life and before I attempt to start working on the Resurfacer , I humbly seek assistance. Thank you so much. I am also addressing this to anyone who come across to this comment of mine.
@NaveenKumarKamatchiRamakrishnaАй бұрын
is it possible to generate pulse with the help of this one in pA (cuurent as source)
@rossilake218Ай бұрын
Hey Robin! @ 49:53 you spoke of the twisting and flex forces on your stick-out piece. We-all have this problem. Where are your HD extended jaws for the Kurt vice? Half-ass Ross uses his often in his 2 car machine garage.
@54hmmwvАй бұрын
2nd time I've watched this. I always learn something new with you. Thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge!
@ROBRENZАй бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@cornnatron3030Ай бұрын
just watching this as i bought a u3 version yesterday for 500euros with all the accessory's and a full 5c collet set from 1.5,2,3,up to 30mm as it was the last one and they now only have the u5 which is as far as i could see the same machine.but cost 899.
@TomMarecekАй бұрын
What type of hardened linear shafting did you replace the original one with? Did you get it from McMaster also?
@ROBRENZАй бұрын
Metric linear motion shafting from McMaster
@TomMarecekАй бұрын
@@ROBRENZ Thank you for the reply. I meant which type of steel would be the best for this - for a 25mm linear shaft McMaster has 1055, 1566 Carbon Steels, 52100 Alloy Steel, and 420 Stainless Steel. I'd guess that the 1566 would be the best because it seems to have the highest hardness and also the best straightness tolerance and surface smoothness ratings. Probably I am just splitting hairs here and they are all better than the original though.
@nowar9220Ай бұрын
The quality of parts/work that gets cranked out on this channel is top fkn class!! Gives us a real insight into how engineering actually practically playes out when high tolerances are required! Even tho i have done some highly accurate work myself ik constantly suprised and learning new things with ROBRENZ!! LOVE IT!!
@geezler4083Ай бұрын
I have a 1/2" CBN wheel I wonder if it will work?
@ROBRENZАй бұрын
Yes but not a good as diamond
@adhawk56322 ай бұрын
Incredible again Robin. Thank you👍👌🇦🇺
@ROBRENZАй бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it
@robertfontaine36502 ай бұрын
Love the math at the end.
@mikefernandes53702 ай бұрын
Should doing this cause rust to develop faster? Lathe is 6 months old and I keep getting surface rust showing up. After using coolant I will blow all the ground surfaces down and then wipe clean off using wd40. A day later with no use I will notice rust that stains into the surface
@timwilliams70342 күн бұрын
I have had wd 40 make things rust. I use light machine oil or even olive oil
@1950rdb2 ай бұрын
Sir, As an engineer, I can say that you are a spindle expert, just one of the various types!
@charleshirst62202 ай бұрын
HA - a couple of minutes in and you said, correctly, 'orienting' not the far more usual incorrect, and very irritating 'orientating'. Well done you!
@Alpha3D_USA2 ай бұрын
1:02:35 hands down, best part of the video! Great job man!
@dustyduds39532 ай бұрын
absolutely brilliant!
@rupunzel62992 ай бұрын
6 jaw chucks inherently have more deflection due to the fact there is less material between jaws. This is why they are inherently more fragile than an 3 jaw. 6 jaw chuck also have the problem of the jaws not making contact with round work, unless the round to be held is ground absolutely round only a few of the 6 jaws will make contact with the round. Overall grip force is distributed over 6 jaws which is lower overall compared to a 3 jaw chuck or more so with a 4 jaw chuck. 6 jaw chucks work best on tubing that can slightly deform to conform to the gripping forces from the 6 jaws. 3 jaw chucks are inherently self compensating for slight out of round work and why 3 jaw chucks have more holding power than a 6 jaw on round bar with less chatter far fewer issues with holding round bar/work than any 6 jaw chuck. 3 jaw chuck are inherently more rigid due to the larger amount of material between jaws, this also make them far more abuse tolerant than any 6 jaw chuck. 4 jaw chucks have the highest holding power with the ability to hold non-road shapes and ability to be adjusted to very small amounts of runout. Grinding chuck jaws can be a good thing, limits are the reground or recut jaws are only truly round at the diameter they are cut or ground at. This means the rounds to be held that are not very close or identical to the cut or ground diameter will not seat properly into the radii cut or ground into the chuck jaws. Better results can be had by using a collet. Once the first cut has been made chuck runout will be essentially negated, or why small amounts of chuck runout is not relevant unless the precision part must be re-chucked for further work to be done. In specific cases like this a 4 jaw chuck is the chuck of choice for many reasons. Or making a set of soft jaws specific to the size of the round to be held as exampled in this HAAS video.. This is extremely common practice in modern cnc or similar lathe work. kzread.info/dash/bejne/hpWa2pmnf73SY5s.html
@bigbattenberg2 ай бұрын
Interesting fact is that a chuck will effectively always lift the part a bit clear from the stop(s). It's repeatable to a high degree so it does not have to be an issue but it's good to know if you have a part with tight axial tolerances
@ROBRENZ2 ай бұрын
Agreed on OD gripping, opposite on ID gripping where part pulls tight to stops.
@bigbattenberg2 ай бұрын
@@ROBRENZ Ah yes, you are right. I am learning a lot in my new job as a CAM programmer and CNC lathe operator. Two Okuma machines, a small one and a big one. Actually I was using an adjustable material stop in the spindle for a certain operation when it became apparent that, even though the shafts were accurately made to length on the mill (as well as centers drilled) for this second operation it would be preferable to use a front stop because it is the main reference for that operation. But, I don't want to be pushing against the turret so I think I'll need a (heavy) spring loaded stop. Probably not a unique solution to this problem.
@JDB602 ай бұрын
Do you have an idea of the radius of the large roughing blade?
@ROBRENZ2 ай бұрын
Roughly 8"
@bartoszskowronski2 ай бұрын
my lapped stones: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qYRrmbRxfpuqqcY.htmlsi=fj3FlDLOVF8dYX_1
@BruceHope-yb8wb2 ай бұрын
Hi Robin, excellent material, thank you! I have a home hobby shop and I need to replace the spindle bearings on my HLV-H, would like your advice. I'm thinking to use sealed bearings (correct grease, correct amount of grease, protected from dirt especially for the rear bearing) but would they run too hot? How much preload would you recommend for this application? It looks like location of the spindle cartridge is by the front flange and the taper pin, is that correct? So remove the taper pin and pulley/spindle nut and the cartridge comes out the front? Thanks for any help you can offer.
@ROBRENZ2 ай бұрын
Unless the spindle is un-useable DONT MESS WITH IT!
@BruceHope-yb8wb2 ай бұрын
@@ROBRENZ I would very much like to leave it alone, but there is 0.005" of axial play in the spindle which seems like a crime. I need to check the pulley/nut in case that has loosened before going after the bearings. But I bought the lathe for very little and it is very worn, so I'm not too worried about messing it up.
@kennyl45102 ай бұрын
Robin. Thanks for your patient kind and considerate manner. You're an educator and a great mind. Cheers Ken
@alireza13402 ай бұрын
Great job man
@davidchavez812 ай бұрын
Robrenz is a legend!
@shanent57932 ай бұрын
How do you know if you've turned the plate by 90°, without any other measuring instruments?
@felixf52112 ай бұрын
This may be the most influential machining video on YT. Who'd even heard of the stones before this? Yes, I was using honing stones for various applications, but this is whole different deal. The vid came up in my feed; hard not to watch again. Now I own 3 pairs of diamond ground stones in various configurations. So remarkably useful. Just yesterday, got some inexpensive 1-2-3 blocks in the mail. One didn't indicate within spec. Ran the side of the block lightly on a stone and what do you know, meets spec.
@dtiydr2 ай бұрын
49:10 No Si3N4 balls?
@kwacz2 ай бұрын
nobody is showing how to actually use this meter. everyone is showing it taking readings in auto mode. I want to use it manually because i have some components that test fine of my other meters but this one in auto mode seems to hunt all over and cant figure out what is connected to it. I cant figure out how to use the manual mode because when i try i get ambiguous incorrect readings that dont agree with any of my other meters.
@leebrowwski2 ай бұрын
Thankas a million. Where have you been all my life!
@darek01982 ай бұрын
name this mashine and model?
@ROBRENZ2 ай бұрын
from Shars tool in the US
@Stan_in_Shelton_WA2 ай бұрын
I worked at a place that our product lived and died by microns. Literally we had tolerances at a +5 -0 microns on our highest precision part. I was tasked with making new stuff and working out processes. I so wish I had this information available to me back in 2000. Here is what we need, make a million of them, and BTW also make the machine and the process as this has never been done. Vibration and run out were my biggest challenges.
Пікірлер
Saying a prayer for part 3 🙏
The bearing with a taper outer race use to be called a WI bearing because the INNER was WHOLE = WI Great job. Might mention that the preload is set from the factory. Some mechanics believe you set the preload with the nut. Not if it is assembled correctly. The preload from the factory can determined by your RPM range.
Thank you!
thanks god, there are still people on this platform explaining some real stuff
OLÁ 14/08/24 Apenas uma sugestão: Descubra "o porque" não se lubrifica as roscas nem arruelas de parafusos. Roberto Udo Krapf
I like it. I have never done this but I am sure in the future I will. I can see all sorts of useful variants of this...
So awesome.
Stefan is still working on his, LOL Yall do good work!
Buck chucks are good tools to have. I have seen the distortion you have shown, my approach has always been to loosen all the adjusting screws and move only the one I need to move it in the direction I needed it. Then loosen it again and adjust the others as necessary until I get it running as needed. Always loosen them after adjusting them. Once the chuck is adjusted where it needs to be I snug up all the screws, one side then the other mindful to be deliberate to not skew the results.. Do this to secure the chuck in position being careful to avoid distorting the chuck while maintaining the concentric adjustment. Done it this way for the past four decades I machined and always teach others this method. This method works well and is quick. Nice chuck you have masterfully built thank you for the video.
Found lots of good information here. I'm making my own version of this tool grinder, and I got a good idea of how to design mine using what I got, except I bought the main arm/tool holder and a 25mm polished rod everything else is going to be made or salvaged stuff and raw metal. deciding what are good features to include in my design since its final shape is still very flexible. also, I have parts off a small bench drill press I will use. Is it useful to have a height adjustment on the grinding wheel? and a feed in and out on the wheel spindle? and is it useful to have angle adjustment in both x and y axis for the wheel?
As you can see from my profile picture I managed to buy a Hilger & watts TA1-5 DIV 0.2 arcseconds here in the UK but finding the precision mirrors for it can be very challenging so making one is the only option I have. When mounting the first surface mirror to the sled with adjustable nylon screws is it necessary to align the mirror perpendicularly to it’s base feet? if so how can you do that with the highest level of precision? Would you need to pitch lap a thick piece of glass to λ/20 to then have a dead flat surface so you can reference from to then get the mirror perpendicular? Any help would be greatly appreciated 😁
Hello Robin, my comment is not specific to this video. I just wanted to thank you for sharing your knowledge and especially your thought process during your projects. When I first found your channel (Stefan Gotteswinter recommended you) I basically did not understand anything you explained or did ... it just was way to advanced for me. Well the virus caught me and I bought a lathe, mill, surface grinder, d-bit grinder, and lots and lots of tooling. Basically watched all the videos from Stefan, Tom Lipton, Joe Pie, This Old Tony and so on (sure I forgot some channels) and then again stumbled upon your videos and finally managed to understand most of what you said. Its a real pleasure to watch your videos and I learnt a lot by doing so multiple times ... even if machining is just a hobby to me it has become an important part of my life for me and thats mainly because of you and Stefan. I think you are improving the life of a lot of people. Keep on turning :-), ATB Stefan
Robin, this is the second time that I've watched this video -- after Stefan mentioned it in his "Toolgrinding: Radius Groove Inserts" video (July 2024). I think that I'll need to manufacture a similar mount for my shop, even though I'm not a content creator. You're either a degreed Engineer or easily put many to shame with your knowledge and skills! I hope that you are well and haven't posted recently because you are simply too busy with your business to film & edit videos. I miss your videos though! ;)
Very cool positioning system you've come up with Robin! The forethoughts in your design process is amazing. Thanks for sharing
Buy nice or buy twice
this is the equivalent to a therapy session for a recently graduated precision mechanic apprentice. Thank you for your video
we made a dozen sets at work. they work great. it was a great upgrade from standard stones.
With respect to your surface preparation at 15:15, what do you think about Dan Gelbart’s favored surface prep of using Ajax to clean surfaces before finishing (covered in his powder coating video I believe)?
Please post more !
I never cared for the moore pattern scraping. I think it addresses problems that are best handled otherwise. Form(flatness usually)is usually the paramount goal and moore scraping does achieve that but at a cost. Bearing texture is also required in may sliding parts and again Moore scraping achieves that after a fashion but again, at a cost. Whitworth's scraping method achieves flatness as well or better and is faster. The Whitworth method can also achieve a good bearing surface if desired. We are 200 years past Whitworth's work and still have not evolved the process , in fact it has devolved into a search for "points". Whitworth was not trying to get "points" he was trying to get as flat as possible, points were just a by product of his method but they happened to provide a great bearing surface at the same time. The ideal surface for a bearing is to be dead flat, dead smooth and scientifically textured for lubrication and debris removal. We are not doing a good job of that with current scraping methods.
Re-watching I am getting more and more ideas. I don't really need a set-tru chuck but stiffening the system with two bolt patterns is a game changer IMO. In fact a thing I have been irritated by is the fact that on the chucks I currently use, chips get caught in the annular space between the backing plate and the chuck. It gets worse because the type I have has a keyway. I was thinking about somehow filling up the space with a sealant or something but that would be so permanent it would be a huge hassle when the chuck would need disassembly. Right now I am always taking the chuck off the backing plate when swapping them. Now, I think there is a great opportunity to kill two birds with one stone. First, make a thicker chuck end/ stiffener plate that lines up with the outer mounting surface of the chuck, so there is no shoulder anymore. Then, post-machine the two in assembled condition and add bolt holes as required (for front mounting if that is not already the case). Then, machine the backing plate adding the threaded holes and get rid of the stepped shoulder. Next, mount the to together and indicate on the lathe to run dead center. Take the assembly to the drill and add to conical dowel pin holes. Add dowel pins for future alignment. For disassembly, dowel pins with internal threads may be used for a slide hammer or threaded holes may be added for pressing the pieces apart with screws. When all is done bore the (hard) jaws as is now well known. Notes: - The chuck end/ stiffener plate does not need to be an interference fit per se when the set-tru feature is not added, however I feel that it will only add to the stiffness. The plate may also be fitted with screw holes for push-off disassembly. - Making the end face of the chuck flat will make it very easy. After all making two parts with the same axial dimension on two shoulders is over-constrained by definition, with the set-tru feature it is necessary but pretty advanced skills and equipment are required to do it right.
Dear Sir Robrenz, I am Abay from Ethiopia. First of all, I thank you in advance for taking your precious time to consider my request. Could you please assist me in order to rectify 'ZANROSSO 1500Y Cylinder Block and Head Resurfacer Machine, which is giving a hyperbola surface finish. Deviation ranging 0.15/.1 mm. I couldn't even find the manual. Previously, four times other Technicians have tried to solve the problem but nothing pays off yet. Now it's my responsibility to bring the machine to life and before I attempt to start working on the Resurfacer , I humbly seek assistance. Thank you so much. I am also addressing this to anyone who come across to this comment of mine.
is it possible to generate pulse with the help of this one in pA (cuurent as source)
Hey Robin! @ 49:53 you spoke of the twisting and flex forces on your stick-out piece. We-all have this problem. Where are your HD extended jaws for the Kurt vice? Half-ass Ross uses his often in his 2 car machine garage.
2nd time I've watched this. I always learn something new with you. Thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
just watching this as i bought a u3 version yesterday for 500euros with all the accessory's and a full 5c collet set from 1.5,2,3,up to 30mm as it was the last one and they now only have the u5 which is as far as i could see the same machine.but cost 899.
What type of hardened linear shafting did you replace the original one with? Did you get it from McMaster also?
Metric linear motion shafting from McMaster
@@ROBRENZ Thank you for the reply. I meant which type of steel would be the best for this - for a 25mm linear shaft McMaster has 1055, 1566 Carbon Steels, 52100 Alloy Steel, and 420 Stainless Steel. I'd guess that the 1566 would be the best because it seems to have the highest hardness and also the best straightness tolerance and surface smoothness ratings. Probably I am just splitting hairs here and they are all better than the original though.
The quality of parts/work that gets cranked out on this channel is top fkn class!! Gives us a real insight into how engineering actually practically playes out when high tolerances are required! Even tho i have done some highly accurate work myself ik constantly suprised and learning new things with ROBRENZ!! LOVE IT!!
I have a 1/2" CBN wheel I wonder if it will work?
Yes but not a good as diamond
Incredible again Robin. Thank you👍👌🇦🇺
Glad you enjoyed it
Love the math at the end.
Should doing this cause rust to develop faster? Lathe is 6 months old and I keep getting surface rust showing up. After using coolant I will blow all the ground surfaces down and then wipe clean off using wd40. A day later with no use I will notice rust that stains into the surface
I have had wd 40 make things rust. I use light machine oil or even olive oil
Sir, As an engineer, I can say that you are a spindle expert, just one of the various types!
HA - a couple of minutes in and you said, correctly, 'orienting' not the far more usual incorrect, and very irritating 'orientating'. Well done you!
1:02:35 hands down, best part of the video! Great job man!
absolutely brilliant!
6 jaw chucks inherently have more deflection due to the fact there is less material between jaws. This is why they are inherently more fragile than an 3 jaw. 6 jaw chuck also have the problem of the jaws not making contact with round work, unless the round to be held is ground absolutely round only a few of the 6 jaws will make contact with the round. Overall grip force is distributed over 6 jaws which is lower overall compared to a 3 jaw chuck or more so with a 4 jaw chuck. 6 jaw chucks work best on tubing that can slightly deform to conform to the gripping forces from the 6 jaws. 3 jaw chucks are inherently self compensating for slight out of round work and why 3 jaw chucks have more holding power than a 6 jaw on round bar with less chatter far fewer issues with holding round bar/work than any 6 jaw chuck. 3 jaw chuck are inherently more rigid due to the larger amount of material between jaws, this also make them far more abuse tolerant than any 6 jaw chuck. 4 jaw chucks have the highest holding power with the ability to hold non-road shapes and ability to be adjusted to very small amounts of runout. Grinding chuck jaws can be a good thing, limits are the reground or recut jaws are only truly round at the diameter they are cut or ground at. This means the rounds to be held that are not very close or identical to the cut or ground diameter will not seat properly into the radii cut or ground into the chuck jaws. Better results can be had by using a collet. Once the first cut has been made chuck runout will be essentially negated, or why small amounts of chuck runout is not relevant unless the precision part must be re-chucked for further work to be done. In specific cases like this a 4 jaw chuck is the chuck of choice for many reasons. Or making a set of soft jaws specific to the size of the round to be held as exampled in this HAAS video.. This is extremely common practice in modern cnc or similar lathe work. kzread.info/dash/bejne/hpWa2pmnf73SY5s.html
Interesting fact is that a chuck will effectively always lift the part a bit clear from the stop(s). It's repeatable to a high degree so it does not have to be an issue but it's good to know if you have a part with tight axial tolerances
Agreed on OD gripping, opposite on ID gripping where part pulls tight to stops.
@@ROBRENZ Ah yes, you are right. I am learning a lot in my new job as a CAM programmer and CNC lathe operator. Two Okuma machines, a small one and a big one. Actually I was using an adjustable material stop in the spindle for a certain operation when it became apparent that, even though the shafts were accurately made to length on the mill (as well as centers drilled) for this second operation it would be preferable to use a front stop because it is the main reference for that operation. But, I don't want to be pushing against the turret so I think I'll need a (heavy) spring loaded stop. Probably not a unique solution to this problem.
Do you have an idea of the radius of the large roughing blade?
Roughly 8"
my lapped stones: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qYRrmbRxfpuqqcY.htmlsi=fj3FlDLOVF8dYX_1
Hi Robin, excellent material, thank you! I have a home hobby shop and I need to replace the spindle bearings on my HLV-H, would like your advice. I'm thinking to use sealed bearings (correct grease, correct amount of grease, protected from dirt especially for the rear bearing) but would they run too hot? How much preload would you recommend for this application? It looks like location of the spindle cartridge is by the front flange and the taper pin, is that correct? So remove the taper pin and pulley/spindle nut and the cartridge comes out the front? Thanks for any help you can offer.
Unless the spindle is un-useable DONT MESS WITH IT!
@@ROBRENZ I would very much like to leave it alone, but there is 0.005" of axial play in the spindle which seems like a crime. I need to check the pulley/nut in case that has loosened before going after the bearings. But I bought the lathe for very little and it is very worn, so I'm not too worried about messing it up.
Robin. Thanks for your patient kind and considerate manner. You're an educator and a great mind. Cheers Ken
Great job man
Robrenz is a legend!
How do you know if you've turned the plate by 90°, without any other measuring instruments?
This may be the most influential machining video on YT. Who'd even heard of the stones before this? Yes, I was using honing stones for various applications, but this is whole different deal. The vid came up in my feed; hard not to watch again. Now I own 3 pairs of diamond ground stones in various configurations. So remarkably useful. Just yesterday, got some inexpensive 1-2-3 blocks in the mail. One didn't indicate within spec. Ran the side of the block lightly on a stone and what do you know, meets spec.
49:10 No Si3N4 balls?
nobody is showing how to actually use this meter. everyone is showing it taking readings in auto mode. I want to use it manually because i have some components that test fine of my other meters but this one in auto mode seems to hunt all over and cant figure out what is connected to it. I cant figure out how to use the manual mode because when i try i get ambiguous incorrect readings that dont agree with any of my other meters.
Thankas a million. Where have you been all my life!
name this mashine and model?
from Shars tool in the US
I worked at a place that our product lived and died by microns. Literally we had tolerances at a +5 -0 microns on our highest precision part. I was tasked with making new stuff and working out processes. I so wish I had this information available to me back in 2000. Here is what we need, make a million of them, and BTW also make the machine and the process as this has never been done. Vibration and run out were my biggest challenges.