Don’t you just love taking things apart and rebuilding them? With a passion for Porsche 964 and a general motorhead I put all my energy into rebuilding my cars.
I haven't wrapped a car's exhaust, but I have wrapped the pipes on my bike. The idea there is it's not only for heat protection and esthetics, but that it help add a small increase power and torque by keeping the hot air inside the pipes. If it's the same for cars, then it seems to me both ceramic coating and wrapping would provide the most optimal result.
@matthewbarnes9365 күн бұрын
Just started watching! I stripped a '67 chassis to bare metal. Getting rid of the bitumen sound deadening was by far the nastiest job in the entire restoration.
@islandworks2 күн бұрын
Enjoy! There is lots more to watch!
@russellepstein79785 күн бұрын
This is my dream car build.
@islandworks5 күн бұрын
Also mine!
@Ystidan11 күн бұрын
I think you should re test with different methods as other said infrared thermometers can read surface temperatures differently based on the color of the surface. This is because different colors have different emissivities, which is a measure of a material's ability to emit infrared radiation. Darker colors typically have higher emissivities and emit more infrared radiation, which can lead to more accurate temperature readings. Lighter colors, on the other hand, have lower emissivities and emit less infrared radiation, which can result in less accurate readings. Lighter colors usually have lower surface temperatures compared to darker colors under the same conditions. This is because lighter colors reflect more sunlight and absorb less heat, while darker colors absorb more sunlight and convert it to heat, resulting in higher surface temperatures.
@jonny04211 күн бұрын
Really enjoy your videos. I've researched a front mount oil tank for my latest 911 project and my understanding is that the scavenge pump moves a lot of oil and air: by design it will move a lot more volume than the high pressure oil feed side of the pump. Therefore there has to be a return path for this volume of air to the crankcase, which you are providing with the vent hose. Great job on that design!
@lucyandemilysdad13 күн бұрын
Hey Jonas, great video as always. I was thinking, would it be worth putting a pair of Dry Break Quick Release couplings on either side of your Gearbox mount and on the inlet and outlet of the engine so you can drop it easily for a clutch change etc. without having to drain and fill your Oil system every time. Those couplings look pretty expensive but it would be cheaper and easier than changing all that oil more times than is needed. All the best mate 😉👍
@islandworks13 күн бұрын
It’s a great solution but I believe space will be the issue. I’ve found that whenever I end up doing a small job (in the past) I’ve always ended up changing the oil anyway, so I decided to rationalize them away
@DZGunner13 күн бұрын
I think most people understand engines need the crankcase to breathe, but what are your thoughts on having a PCV actually pulling a vacuum on the crankcase?
@islandworks13 күн бұрын
I would like to design one in… looking for a suggestion on one that I can put in a piece of aluminum… :-)
@islandworks13 күн бұрын
In the sense that I mean a PCV as a non return valve on the crank case breather.
@TKRS48013 күн бұрын
Fantastic work, love the car, the workshop and I am green with envy. Regarding the oil pipe through mount, not an engineer, but wouldn't it be possible to get your TIG guy to weld more tube to make a little "S" in the pipe to make the angle more favourable? A little like you might with an exhaust? You have plently of spare tube, a friendly TIG welder....? Just a thought.
@islandworks13 күн бұрын
Good idea and definitely a possibility! Another way to to change to a clamp rather than a coupling so it shrinks
@terrenceyang879813 күн бұрын
My favorite show on the planet is on again
@islandworks13 күн бұрын
Also my favorite show! Need better frequency though!
@jompazx127214 күн бұрын
You give the expert welder alot credit(and it's well deserved) but haven't heard anything about the machinist supporting you! Your machined components are absolutely beautiful aswell! För example that oilfilter/Thermostat housing!
@islandworks13 күн бұрын
CAM processing of a design and preparing it for the machine and tools available is half of the engineering. I work exclusively with Aximech on this. Fredrik (the guy behind) is the best I’ve ever seen at this!
@konstantinmoraglis530014 күн бұрын
Well done ! thanks
@rossmacdonald303414 күн бұрын
Sorry if I missed it, but is there a reason you can't use a VTE AOS and skip all that hose for the vent?
@islandworks14 күн бұрын
Yes I don’t want to have two catch cans. The one I have is next to the oil tank in the front. You could have one in the back as well but I rather just have the hose and a single system.
@rossmacdonald303413 күн бұрын
@@islandworkslove the car and do your thing. Seems like a lot of work to avoid a second can, but I've watched all the videos and can't think of anything you didn't fully think out. That said, are you worried about the oil vapors condensing and ending up as droplets on that long run of hose? Seems like a lot of vapors could cool, condense and end up as oil in the back half the hose and then run back into your intake. Kind of like the gooseneck you were concerned about. Anything that condensed on the front half would run to the tank so no harm, but the back stuff would be my worry. But maybe it's nothing. I sometimes both over and under think things.
@islandworks13 күн бұрын
@@rossmacdonald3034 theres always more than one way to solve these issues. I’m not worried about any run back in this setup to the intake as the intake is not connected to the oil system at all. The vent line is directly from the crank case to the oil tank as compared to a standard 964 setup where the tank is vented off into the intake puking oil into the intake (ask me how I know…)
@rossmacdonald303412 күн бұрын
Duh, IDK what I was thinking. Keep up the good work, car is going to be a beast. @@islandworks
@milosnovakovic669415 күн бұрын
you can slide those an fittings on really easy if you left hand thread them in rather than using a mallet.
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
The ones I have are not threaded unfortunately…
@darylmorse15 күн бұрын
The oil lines are huge. Do they really need to be that big?
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
The section line needs to be oversized to ensure there in no pressure loss leading into the pump given the extended length
@jonascarrerars952915 күн бұрын
Yes they have to be huge. Its different in all other vehicles than porsche. In the 911 its a part of the system, not just additional cooler outside the system. This is What many builders miss. Its also very important you use a high flowing cooler
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
In my setup there are two coolers running in parallel.
@mitkine15 күн бұрын
Helt jävla galet bygge
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
Och kul!
@racingdatasystems370815 күн бұрын
Just a word of caution (37yrs of Porsche race cars) we had an issue with the pump collapsing the braided lines close to the engine. We ended up running -20 lines and running a 150mm coiled wire inside to maintain the hose diameter. There is a reason why Porsche ran a hard line.
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
That’s good input. I’ve taken reference from some other builds and in all honesty wanted to reuse the snout it comes with from factory around the engine but could not find mine…
@fraserwright948214 күн бұрын
Poiseuille's law also affects you, as you are working with a fluid (oil) with gas inside it. You are not just doing this in a static condition, but as you brake/accelerate the fluid/gas acts as spring, the diameter of the pipe, length and to add complexity the viscosity of the fluid over temperature, engine speed are all changing the value. Add in the braided pipe which will deform at a percentage of length, which will also deform more at a higher temperature. Your pipe can be calculated to the necessary diameter of the wall required over the length and material of the pipe itself. Running hYeat shield between the fuel lines and a heat source of an exhaust is sufficient in the centre tunnel of a car as air flow is always linear, so front to back. Your oil is never going to be hotter than an exhaust.
@racingdatasystems370814 күн бұрын
@@fraserwright9482 we also gold foil the tunnel to reflect the heat away and keep it out of the cars.
@islandworks13 күн бұрын
So you’re saying better to run pipes in the middle and then thermally insulate the lines? Some reference from similar 911 installations have used more complex routing than this with AN16 or 20. In my case I have AN20 up the the transmission mount, then AN16 after that.
@racingdatasystems370813 күн бұрын
@@islandworks I'll do heat sleeving over the lines *and run the reflective gold foil in the tunnel. Heat control.
@VWbugz6615 күн бұрын
Ingen minns en fegis! 🤘
@islandworks14 күн бұрын
Så är det!
@albertcorreia386615 күн бұрын
Very cool 👍
@islandworks14 күн бұрын
❤️
@dacky332015 күн бұрын
That mount weldable but your welder won't thank you because cast doesn't weld nice, breather into the inlet manifold shouldn't be much gunk just gases as the dry sump vacuum suction
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
So I guess we will be fighting a bit with the TIG. I hope I’ll only see gasses in the vent line!
@gafrers15 күн бұрын
Great work and great place to edit a video.
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
Magic!
@AveryMGlass15 күн бұрын
What a view while you are editing!!
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
It was magic! Check out the instagram! Islandworks_overland
@bmorrison366515 күн бұрын
just dig in :)
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
No one remembers a coward!
@jgrhoades15 күн бұрын
That 3d printed angled grommet is super cool! What filament material is it made from?
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
This is AddNorth TPU. Discount code in the description.
@voltairegoethe15 күн бұрын
How to turn your front transmission crossmember/mount to a heat sink! That ought to remove at least a few degrees from the hot oil!
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
Haha! Great though and it will be smoking hot!
@robinthagesson15 күн бұрын
Tjena, dom tillopp och retur ledningarna du har i tunneln under där, som sitter i dina blåa fästen, är väldigt säker på att du har aningens för glest mellan dom fästena, dom är "raka" och fina nu, men när du får olja i där så kommer dom att bågna när oljan värmer upp slangen. Hade försökt åtminstonde fått till 2 till på dom långa avstånden för att slippa det ☺️, hade detta problemet själv nämligen på en liknande installation. annars som vanligt, väldigt bra content och lösningar 🔥
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
Helt riktigt! Det blir 4 eller 5 i slutänden. Det var lite bråttom för att få klart innan semestern bara!
@h-j.k.897115 күн бұрын
If your running a dry sump with enugh scavenging you don´t need to vent the sngine, just the tank.
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
I have a dual scavenge pump from Autoverdi. It’s about the largest you could have I believe. I do however feel it’s a small expense with a vent line if I have issues in the future with blow by.
@h-j.k.897115 күн бұрын
@@islandworks Scavinging the sump creates a low pressure invironment, which in turn stops leaks and frees up power, it also helps the oil from being aireated.
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
On the GT3 it is a return valve instead to allow vacuum to be pulled and at the same time allow positive crank case pressure to go via the line. I might look at something like that
@mawe4215 күн бұрын
The 19mm is big enough, but I would worry about the vent from the tank being a restriction, especially with that banjo fitting and even the vent from the puke tank. If you have a really powerful scavenge pump you might even push air back thru the 19mm hose, I'm guessing here.
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
I guess some of this will have to be seen once the engine runs and adjusted accordingly
@UndetectableSn1per15 күн бұрын
Lovely stuff as always! Been waiting since the last one haha!
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
Time is always a scars commodity! Next stop might start the engine!
@UndetectableSn1per15 күн бұрын
@@islandworks can't wait 👏
@TheTruelakersfan17 күн бұрын
The wrap is known to cause rust because it holds moisture. The coating may last only 1-2 years
@spiroskatsikas21 күн бұрын
A bee hive spring and smaller retainer would make it lighter again, not all people agree with this method, but race cars have used them 😊
@NKPGarage21 күн бұрын
Have used both on different projects over the years. For pure heat reduction wrap always works better than any type of ceramic coating. But for street applications ceramic is generally the better choice as it doesn’t lead to corrosion and cracking as quickly as wrap does.
@radiatorgrillestore21 күн бұрын
Great build videos. Have you been able to start up the engine with the TT exhaust and get dB measurements?
@islandworks15 күн бұрын
Not yet…
@alberttaylor391724 күн бұрын
You have not added controls mild or stainless steel headers uncoated or wrapped also wraps are reputed to retain or absorb moisture bringing early retirement to mild steel headers.
@jrraczko65127 күн бұрын
Where did you buy the brake pressure and switch bulkhead?
@islandworks24 күн бұрын
It’s my own design. It’s in our webshop IslandWorks.one
@tatartudor8467Ай бұрын
what if you put wrap on the ceramic coat?
@tatartudor846723 күн бұрын
what if you put more layers of wrap on the exhaust?
@OEFarredondoАй бұрын
Do both
@johngregory4801Ай бұрын
Pretty sure the smoking header wrap is the adhesive outgassing. Whether it is or isn't, I'm not sure how it couldn't be toxic.
@ronanrogers4127Ай бұрын
What a meaningless “test”
@alexandrumates88Ай бұрын
Idk if cerakote is the best use for this example. I'd use a different thicker ceramic coating on the exhaust
@N54God666Ай бұрын
Temps not high enough to see ceramic do a better job at higher temps over the wrap
@AIR_RAM_PERF2 ай бұрын
Wrap always smokes on initial start up... it's perfectly normal.
@michaelwolejszo64452 ай бұрын
I wrapped a set of headers once, within 2 years they were cracked. I just bought a set of ceramic coated headers because I don't want to go through replacing them again. Every company that makes headers will not warranty any header that has been wrapped for a reason.
@secondarycontainment47272 ай бұрын
If protecting your plug wires is the concern - start using a silicone based set. Currently, high silicone sets have replaced wire sets that used to "require" a metal heat sheild at the boot due to plugs being just inches from (and nesting between pipes of) the exhaust manifold on "old" trucks like the Ram (circa 1990 Dodge). If further protection is needed, run the wires themselves through a heat wrap/sheath. Also, if you dont want oil getting into the wrap - stop pouring oil on it.
@JP_SC2 ай бұрын
Coating will flake after a while. Would like to see data from heat shield or inconel.
@alman65812 ай бұрын
Damn thats clean. Thanks for this - giving me ideas.
@jamesweber70012 ай бұрын
Please note! That “heat gun” (optical infrared pyrometer) doesn’t actually measure the temperature of the surface. It measures the infrared light being emitted from the surface and this amount of light is based of the emissivity of the surface you are measuring. In this case, you have shiny black paint (pigmented with ceramic particles) and silvery cloth. These substances will provide two very different emissivity values. You can never honestly prove that these painted on ceramic coatings are effective this way. A better way is to touch the surface with a simple digital meat thermometer. This will be the true surface temperature.
@magjohansson32012 ай бұрын
You should have tried whit out wrapping before 👍🤪 nice to see how much it does.
@alman65812 ай бұрын
Just found you - thanks to Mike at Rennch. Loving this first up - now to watch them all.........lol
Пікірлер
I haven't wrapped a car's exhaust, but I have wrapped the pipes on my bike. The idea there is it's not only for heat protection and esthetics, but that it help add a small increase power and torque by keeping the hot air inside the pipes. If it's the same for cars, then it seems to me both ceramic coating and wrapping would provide the most optimal result.
Just started watching! I stripped a '67 chassis to bare metal. Getting rid of the bitumen sound deadening was by far the nastiest job in the entire restoration.
Enjoy! There is lots more to watch!
This is my dream car build.
Also mine!
I think you should re test with different methods as other said infrared thermometers can read surface temperatures differently based on the color of the surface. This is because different colors have different emissivities, which is a measure of a material's ability to emit infrared radiation. Darker colors typically have higher emissivities and emit more infrared radiation, which can lead to more accurate temperature readings. Lighter colors, on the other hand, have lower emissivities and emit less infrared radiation, which can result in less accurate readings. Lighter colors usually have lower surface temperatures compared to darker colors under the same conditions. This is because lighter colors reflect more sunlight and absorb less heat, while darker colors absorb more sunlight and convert it to heat, resulting in higher surface temperatures.
Really enjoy your videos. I've researched a front mount oil tank for my latest 911 project and my understanding is that the scavenge pump moves a lot of oil and air: by design it will move a lot more volume than the high pressure oil feed side of the pump. Therefore there has to be a return path for this volume of air to the crankcase, which you are providing with the vent hose. Great job on that design!
Hey Jonas, great video as always. I was thinking, would it be worth putting a pair of Dry Break Quick Release couplings on either side of your Gearbox mount and on the inlet and outlet of the engine so you can drop it easily for a clutch change etc. without having to drain and fill your Oil system every time. Those couplings look pretty expensive but it would be cheaper and easier than changing all that oil more times than is needed. All the best mate 😉👍
It’s a great solution but I believe space will be the issue. I’ve found that whenever I end up doing a small job (in the past) I’ve always ended up changing the oil anyway, so I decided to rationalize them away
I think most people understand engines need the crankcase to breathe, but what are your thoughts on having a PCV actually pulling a vacuum on the crankcase?
I would like to design one in… looking for a suggestion on one that I can put in a piece of aluminum… :-)
In the sense that I mean a PCV as a non return valve on the crank case breather.
Fantastic work, love the car, the workshop and I am green with envy. Regarding the oil pipe through mount, not an engineer, but wouldn't it be possible to get your TIG guy to weld more tube to make a little "S" in the pipe to make the angle more favourable? A little like you might with an exhaust? You have plently of spare tube, a friendly TIG welder....? Just a thought.
Good idea and definitely a possibility! Another way to to change to a clamp rather than a coupling so it shrinks
My favorite show on the planet is on again
Also my favorite show! Need better frequency though!
You give the expert welder alot credit(and it's well deserved) but haven't heard anything about the machinist supporting you! Your machined components are absolutely beautiful aswell! För example that oilfilter/Thermostat housing!
CAM processing of a design and preparing it for the machine and tools available is half of the engineering. I work exclusively with Aximech on this. Fredrik (the guy behind) is the best I’ve ever seen at this!
Well done ! thanks
Sorry if I missed it, but is there a reason you can't use a VTE AOS and skip all that hose for the vent?
Yes I don’t want to have two catch cans. The one I have is next to the oil tank in the front. You could have one in the back as well but I rather just have the hose and a single system.
@@islandworkslove the car and do your thing. Seems like a lot of work to avoid a second can, but I've watched all the videos and can't think of anything you didn't fully think out. That said, are you worried about the oil vapors condensing and ending up as droplets on that long run of hose? Seems like a lot of vapors could cool, condense and end up as oil in the back half the hose and then run back into your intake. Kind of like the gooseneck you were concerned about. Anything that condensed on the front half would run to the tank so no harm, but the back stuff would be my worry. But maybe it's nothing. I sometimes both over and under think things.
@@rossmacdonald3034 theres always more than one way to solve these issues. I’m not worried about any run back in this setup to the intake as the intake is not connected to the oil system at all. The vent line is directly from the crank case to the oil tank as compared to a standard 964 setup where the tank is vented off into the intake puking oil into the intake (ask me how I know…)
Duh, IDK what I was thinking. Keep up the good work, car is going to be a beast. @@islandworks
you can slide those an fittings on really easy if you left hand thread them in rather than using a mallet.
The ones I have are not threaded unfortunately…
The oil lines are huge. Do they really need to be that big?
The section line needs to be oversized to ensure there in no pressure loss leading into the pump given the extended length
Yes they have to be huge. Its different in all other vehicles than porsche. In the 911 its a part of the system, not just additional cooler outside the system. This is What many builders miss. Its also very important you use a high flowing cooler
In my setup there are two coolers running in parallel.
Helt jävla galet bygge
Och kul!
Just a word of caution (37yrs of Porsche race cars) we had an issue with the pump collapsing the braided lines close to the engine. We ended up running -20 lines and running a 150mm coiled wire inside to maintain the hose diameter. There is a reason why Porsche ran a hard line.
That’s good input. I’ve taken reference from some other builds and in all honesty wanted to reuse the snout it comes with from factory around the engine but could not find mine…
Poiseuille's law also affects you, as you are working with a fluid (oil) with gas inside it. You are not just doing this in a static condition, but as you brake/accelerate the fluid/gas acts as spring, the diameter of the pipe, length and to add complexity the viscosity of the fluid over temperature, engine speed are all changing the value. Add in the braided pipe which will deform at a percentage of length, which will also deform more at a higher temperature. Your pipe can be calculated to the necessary diameter of the wall required over the length and material of the pipe itself. Running hYeat shield between the fuel lines and a heat source of an exhaust is sufficient in the centre tunnel of a car as air flow is always linear, so front to back. Your oil is never going to be hotter than an exhaust.
@@fraserwright9482 we also gold foil the tunnel to reflect the heat away and keep it out of the cars.
So you’re saying better to run pipes in the middle and then thermally insulate the lines? Some reference from similar 911 installations have used more complex routing than this with AN16 or 20. In my case I have AN20 up the the transmission mount, then AN16 after that.
@@islandworks I'll do heat sleeving over the lines *and run the reflective gold foil in the tunnel. Heat control.
Ingen minns en fegis! 🤘
Så är det!
Very cool 👍
❤️
That mount weldable but your welder won't thank you because cast doesn't weld nice, breather into the inlet manifold shouldn't be much gunk just gases as the dry sump vacuum suction
So I guess we will be fighting a bit with the TIG. I hope I’ll only see gasses in the vent line!
Great work and great place to edit a video.
Magic!
What a view while you are editing!!
It was magic! Check out the instagram! Islandworks_overland
just dig in :)
No one remembers a coward!
That 3d printed angled grommet is super cool! What filament material is it made from?
This is AddNorth TPU. Discount code in the description.
How to turn your front transmission crossmember/mount to a heat sink! That ought to remove at least a few degrees from the hot oil!
Haha! Great though and it will be smoking hot!
Tjena, dom tillopp och retur ledningarna du har i tunneln under där, som sitter i dina blåa fästen, är väldigt säker på att du har aningens för glest mellan dom fästena, dom är "raka" och fina nu, men när du får olja i där så kommer dom att bågna när oljan värmer upp slangen. Hade försökt åtminstonde fått till 2 till på dom långa avstånden för att slippa det ☺️, hade detta problemet själv nämligen på en liknande installation. annars som vanligt, väldigt bra content och lösningar 🔥
Helt riktigt! Det blir 4 eller 5 i slutänden. Det var lite bråttom för att få klart innan semestern bara!
If your running a dry sump with enugh scavenging you don´t need to vent the sngine, just the tank.
I have a dual scavenge pump from Autoverdi. It’s about the largest you could have I believe. I do however feel it’s a small expense with a vent line if I have issues in the future with blow by.
@@islandworks Scavinging the sump creates a low pressure invironment, which in turn stops leaks and frees up power, it also helps the oil from being aireated.
On the GT3 it is a return valve instead to allow vacuum to be pulled and at the same time allow positive crank case pressure to go via the line. I might look at something like that
The 19mm is big enough, but I would worry about the vent from the tank being a restriction, especially with that banjo fitting and even the vent from the puke tank. If you have a really powerful scavenge pump you might even push air back thru the 19mm hose, I'm guessing here.
I guess some of this will have to be seen once the engine runs and adjusted accordingly
Lovely stuff as always! Been waiting since the last one haha!
Time is always a scars commodity! Next stop might start the engine!
@@islandworks can't wait 👏
The wrap is known to cause rust because it holds moisture. The coating may last only 1-2 years
A bee hive spring and smaller retainer would make it lighter again, not all people agree with this method, but race cars have used them 😊
Have used both on different projects over the years. For pure heat reduction wrap always works better than any type of ceramic coating. But for street applications ceramic is generally the better choice as it doesn’t lead to corrosion and cracking as quickly as wrap does.
Great build videos. Have you been able to start up the engine with the TT exhaust and get dB measurements?
Not yet…
You have not added controls mild or stainless steel headers uncoated or wrapped also wraps are reputed to retain or absorb moisture bringing early retirement to mild steel headers.
Where did you buy the brake pressure and switch bulkhead?
It’s my own design. It’s in our webshop IslandWorks.one
what if you put wrap on the ceramic coat?
what if you put more layers of wrap on the exhaust?
Do both
Pretty sure the smoking header wrap is the adhesive outgassing. Whether it is or isn't, I'm not sure how it couldn't be toxic.
What a meaningless “test”
Idk if cerakote is the best use for this example. I'd use a different thicker ceramic coating on the exhaust
Temps not high enough to see ceramic do a better job at higher temps over the wrap
Wrap always smokes on initial start up... it's perfectly normal.
I wrapped a set of headers once, within 2 years they were cracked. I just bought a set of ceramic coated headers because I don't want to go through replacing them again. Every company that makes headers will not warranty any header that has been wrapped for a reason.
If protecting your plug wires is the concern - start using a silicone based set. Currently, high silicone sets have replaced wire sets that used to "require" a metal heat sheild at the boot due to plugs being just inches from (and nesting between pipes of) the exhaust manifold on "old" trucks like the Ram (circa 1990 Dodge). If further protection is needed, run the wires themselves through a heat wrap/sheath. Also, if you dont want oil getting into the wrap - stop pouring oil on it.
Coating will flake after a while. Would like to see data from heat shield or inconel.
Damn thats clean. Thanks for this - giving me ideas.
Please note! That “heat gun” (optical infrared pyrometer) doesn’t actually measure the temperature of the surface. It measures the infrared light being emitted from the surface and this amount of light is based of the emissivity of the surface you are measuring. In this case, you have shiny black paint (pigmented with ceramic particles) and silvery cloth. These substances will provide two very different emissivity values. You can never honestly prove that these painted on ceramic coatings are effective this way. A better way is to touch the surface with a simple digital meat thermometer. This will be the true surface temperature.
You should have tried whit out wrapping before 👍🤪 nice to see how much it does.
Just found you - thanks to Mike at Rennch. Loving this first up - now to watch them all.........lol
Enjoy!
Cableporn
Så jäkla snyggt
Why not use both at the same time 👍