Avid track driver that loves Porsche GT cars.
I have put down thousands of laps at Circuit of the Americas (COTA) in various cars.
Started on the track with a Subaru BRZ in 2012 and currently drive a Porsche GT4 RS.
Come along for the ride as I try to keep my cars running and improve my track skills.
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Awesome analysis! Would love to hear the specs on your simulator. I’m considering getting a sim. Thx.
Thank you! My sim was built during the pandemic, when all of the tracks were closed, so it's probably a bit dated now but still does the job.
My observation. Shorter corners, less steering angle, carrying more apex and exit speed and rotates the car quicker. Will need to look at throttle and brake traces with steering angle to manage weight transfer while not upsetting the chassis. As you said, pro drivers can feel that without thinking from experience. Thanks for the video.. Very interesting. BTW, as you know a hotter track tends to have less grip progressively through the hot lap but pro drivers can manage that by feel.
Thanks for watching and for your thoughts. So it sounds like you are telling me to get a VBox before Randy gets back in the car?
@@ItsTrackTimeyes VBox/AIM Solo. You want to be able to look at a time vs distance chart. This combined with video analysis focused mainly on the lines taken as well as the driver telemetry (throttle, brake, steering) if you can overlay them. Vmax and Vmin are useful checkpoints but only tell a partial story for differences between drivers, especially when your lines are totally different. Check out the Data Analysis 101 video by HP Academy for a crash course.
I had a Solo2 mounted in the car when both myself and Randy were driving and it was hooked into the CAN bus so I should have the data but I just hate using their software. Every time I open one of their apps I have to relearn everything plus it only works on Windows - a major strike against them.
Very interesting! If you see how he moves the wheel, he works with the car to feel the real limit - you drive extremely clean, smooth and and nice but leave grip limits on the table…..I would argue this is normal in the club scene in warmer climates with people driving within the limits and loose quite a lot of experience of driving above the traction limits and car control. We who grew up on frozen lakes have the car control/attack but instead lack the very good precision you have. What make the pros is that they combine both car control with your precision lap after lap after lap.🥳
Agreed. We go up north and drive in the dirt from time to time at Dirtfish - that is a completely different world. Much of what we know doesn't translate to rally. Completely different skill set.
This is a great analysis. Thank you
Thanks for watching. Good to hear you found it useful.
he is doing a ton of micro corrections in the corners that he gained time on you, but you are holding the steering wheel rather steady...that seems to be one of the differences, for ex at 13:30-13:36
With the TC/ESC disabled he's having to do the work that the computer is doing for me. And in Randy's case, he is doing it better than the computer.
@@ItsTrackTime ESC is going to limit your car’s rotation / lead to more understeer compared to ESC off. I’d try to get comfortable rotating the car aggressively on entry in the sim and work up to disabling ESC. Randy is simply operating at a high limit as well as able to get the car pointed into the corner earlier using that extra rotation.
Thanks for the tips. I'll give that a try on the sim and see how it works out. I've always focused on trying to cut a smooth arc and maintain my speed as much as possible through the turns. Randy is showing there is an alternative and it seems to work better on may tight turns.
Two completely different mindsets. One is a veteran race car driver that just wants the best lap time period and will do whatever is required of them to make that happen. The other is probably the vehicle owner who doesn't want the car beat up too much on curbs or risk upsetting the suspension, and they leave TC/ESC drivers aids on because they don't want to risk their expensive, GT4RS from getting destroyed. "Playing it safe" in every way they can. Gee, I wonder how this is gonna go?? Two competent drivers with two completely different mindsets. It's amazing to me how many variables change just in that alone, regardless of driving conditions, tires, or even skill/experience.
True, however Randy doesn't want to wreck the car either and said he was being "safe" in a number of areas around the track. In the debrief he specifically mentioned several areas that he wanted to go harder on but chose not to risk it given the behavior of the car. I believe once the dampeners and sway bars are addressed he will push harder in several of those areas.
Can I use this in my GTS 4.0? I would think so.
They aren't recommending it. So far it's only required for the 9K rpm engines.
@@ItsTrackTime Interestingly my 2 year service is due. I just set an appointment and asked about the oil. I'll post back in a few weeks when the service is done.
Thanks, I know some other GTS owners that would like to hear the answer.
In my experience with Porsche GT4,in order to get faster,you have to turn the esc off at least,otherwise the computer will most likely limited your corner speed and you are not going to make a PB lap😂
Interesting, need to read up on that.
@@ItsTrackTime yes,if you want to full send your car,that’s where it begins,that’s basically why pro drivers usually leave every electric controls off,and you can also have a better understanding of how the mid-engine car rotates,I believe it will improve your driving skills a lot by that!
I would really like to have the dial that pros have on their race cars where you can dial the TC/ESC up or down on a scale of 1 to 10. That way you could gradually decrease each and feel the difference in how the car behaves. Just switching them off feels like jumping off a cliff to me.
Great video. Can you talk about or make a video on how you’ve procured the stable of Porsche cars. I’ve been looking at turbo s or gt3 (have a 991.2 4s now) - with the idea of a daily I can track a hand full of times a year. But dealing with the dealer in Austin is interesting- they have cars - but they are marked up $50 to 100k over msrp - even back to 2022 model years. I know the market is controlled by speculators but it seems over the top at the local dealer. It’s so bad I’m think of just going and buying a Mercedes AMG GT 63.
Thank you. There is no simple foolproof plan for getting a GT car allocation. I started back in 2015 and didn't get one until 2022. It all comes down to the relationships you build with the dealer. The reality is they have way more buyers than allocations so they don't need to work very hard at win you over. Instead you need to be persistent and keep yourself in front of them.
First, I love these videos and your analytical approach. The unknown variable is what driver aids are doing in your lap versus apples to apples completely off like Randy. It may be the case that your inputs are more similar than it appears - I tend to think driver aids hurt more than help, at least at your non-beginner level.. A variable to consider for future comparisons.
Good to hear you find this format interesting - Thanks! My older 987 generation Caymans had a lot more invasive driver aids. They would pull power as you exited the turns so it really taught you to roll on the power as you straightened the wheel. However it's very hard to detect where the new 2023 systems a coming in. They are a very impressive. Shutting it off would tell me real quick.
@@ItsTrackTimeyep.. they might hinder the speed of an expert driver but for an amateur driving a very expensive car they're probably... advisable...
That's been my thought process in a nutshell. If someone else is paying for the car I'm willing to shut them off.
@@ItsTrackTime I don't hesitate to switch everything off on my Miata but it simply doesn't have the power to cause real issues. Plus the nannies are old-style and very intrusive
Given its weight and balance, I'm sure the Miata is still a very well behaved car with all of the driving aids disabled. However something like a rear engined GT3 would be a handful - I don't even fill comfortable in those with the driving aids enabled.
Thanks so much for this, really appreciate your data driven approach. I think we amateurs can apply these differences compared with a pro driver to up our own games.
Thanks for watching. I agree, you don't learn much from people that are worse than you at a particular activity but you learn a lot from those that are better.
Awesome! Takes a lot of time to put this together. Great stuff. We will be at COTA end of sept, would be fun to chat. 🏁🏁
Thanks, and yes these do take a lot of time to produce. Glad you find value in them. I'll be there in late Sept praying for a cold front. Look forward to chatting with you!
One thing I see at T11 (at 12:05) is his max steering angle is much higher. Visually I'd estimate 190 degrees vs. 150 degrees for you. With his lower Vmin (35 mph vs your 40 mph) this makes sense - he's turning slower and sharper. Maybe this allows him to get on the gas faster. And even if you had your foot all the way down, the Traction Control may slow down your acceleration in 2nd gear. Does your data logging include the throttle position and brake pressure? These would also be valuable to look at. Good work - another good analysis video!
Yes, his steering angle on turn 11 is much sharper than mine and he manages to keep the frontend hooked up. As you said, this plus his lower speed might have been the difference in him rotating the car faster. Once he's pointed down track he can roll the power back on quicker that me. My primary data logger, Garmin, doesn't have throttle position and brake pressure but I usually have a 2nd one in the car that does, Solo2. Contemplating the addition of a VBox but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
Wow awesome!
Thanks for watching!
Very nice comparison! You asked at 12:06 what was difference between both in this turn... Randy takes late apex which lines him up with straight on track out. Your slightly earlier apex took your line out to the curbing. Great drive in an awesome car!
Thanks! Yeah, Randy's very good at rotating the car. Looks like magic when you watch it. Always gets the nose pointed down the track faster than me.
If you look carefully you are extending your arm on turns,that makes you loose feel of the car!just sit a litlle closer to the steering wheel
Interesting, I've been moving my seat up lately but will consider that next time I'm at the track.
@@ItsTrackTime just try at at home like this… Sit in your car relax shoulders and body and place your wrist on top of steerin wheel whitout movinv your back!that is your optimal siting position!that allows turning without moving your body around and you relax more
What I was told is to sit in the car, put your arms above the wheel, cross them at your wrists, and align the seat position so that the cross point is at the top of the wheel. I typically move the seat slightly shorter than this.
Love the analysis, thanks for putting this together and sharing.
Thanks for watching! A lot to learn by observing the differences in lines, speeds, and styles.
Maverick in the Miami papa do you have IG?
Super cool vid , thanks , you have how many cameras going
Thanks! I typically use 5 or 6. Nose, Tail, Dash, 360 interior, helmet, Garmin.
I've had both and the 911 is the better car.
Common belief among many - I just prefer mid engine balance.
Thanks so much for sharing your experience with us!
Your welcome, hopefully it helps!
Do GT4s have the same front suspension compartments as GT4 RS? Just got my GT4, would like to have -3.5 camber on the front as well. Was going to purchase camber plate, front tie rod end and some shims to get there. However, in the video you said you achieved 3.6 by only camber plate and shims?? Makes me wonder if I need the tie rod end after all? Would really appreciate if you could confirm this. Thanks
The front suspension of the GT4 RS is a hybrid blend of parts from the front suspension of the 991.2 GT3 and GT3 RS so I can't guarantee that the changes we made to my GT4 RS will be directly applicable to the GT4. However yes we only used front camber plates and shims to achieve -3.5.
@@ItsTrackTime thanks for the reply, I’ll look into it a bit more. Cheers.
Thank you! Are you going to put the Dundon Kit on the car? So curious to see what happens if you do that - I've got a stock car with exception of camber plates and rear toe links and looking to see what to change next!
Yep the full Dundon kit is inbound! Debating on whether to stage the parts or just point them all on at once. Could do MCS, pull data, Aero, pull data, Header back system, pull data but that would take three track weekends and probably 6 months. I'm a bit impatient so I will probably do it all at once and try to figure out how to drive it.
Great analysis! Keep having fun!
Thank you! Keep your videos coming as well - Very informative!
Like the matte black on the spyder rs windshield frame. I like the model decals, and my color is chalk on my regular spyder. I also think white would look good. Good spec, 201k. You are a lucky man : )
The Spyder RS does look very good in white as well. A friend has chalk on a GT4 and it also looks great but for a Spyder I'm thinking a bright color would be good.
I wonder what he does for a living where his hands are always dirty. That doesn’t sound like a normal thing for Porsche owners, dirty hands that is.
Go to the track and find out.
I live in Michigan and I just got back from the Porsche experience center in Atlanta to spec a custom CXX order for a GT4 RS. I have also chosen the paint to sample plus program. Would you be willing to help me spec the car so I don't miss anything. I found your videos extremely helpful, but this car is going to be a special one off so I want to make sure it's just the way that I want it. The Porsche vehicle personalization and accessories manager was very helpful but I came away with more questions than answers after he explained how the CXX orders are put in for approval. If there's someway that I could contact you directly, I would really appreciate it.
I'd be happy to look at your spec. Just send an email to my channel under About -> Channel details -> view email address
C40 GT and ESP X3 are very likely the same oil with different label and green dye / zirconium tracer added to the GT. This is probably because X3 is being phased out by X4, which will have different base oils and an SP compatible additive package like the FS A40 0W-40. German oil club shows identical additive levels and FTIR results for the ESP X3 and C40 GT. The PFF forum also has a thread on it and the suspicion is that X4 will not be compatible with a DLC coating in the MA275s.
1. The spyder rs black wrap you are suggesting on the back should mirror the front end where the red middle ends in a U instead of the straight edge block. It’ll look more natural. I think the eye lashes for the headlights taillights might be too much. Gunmetal side strip would be better in black. 2. 18 way seats gives you heated seats which increases the range of temps you can drive with the top off, which given the spyder rs roof assembly and disassembly time can be meaningful. Heated seats allows me to drive roof down in the evening and night comfortably.
Thanks for the input! Carrying the red rear stripe up the duck tail and rounding it off would be a good addition - noted. Eye lash spikes are interesting and kind of capture some of the red stripe patterns on the original 550 Spyders - I'm still evaluating them... I have another set of rendering with those side strips in black and I just thought the red/black pattern needed to be broken up a bit - black is still in the cards. Interesting point on the heated seats and cold weather. Maybe some of my Icelandic heritage will get me through.
Your GT4 almost matches my GT4 exactly.
Great color, hard not to pick it!
Can you please give me the contact details of the supplier of the seat bolsters you have fitted. I have a GT4RS being shipped to me right now. I think I need the same ones you have as I have the bucket seats & not the 18 way adjustable ones. So I don't mess up perhaps you could also give me the link to the correct ones or do the bolsters fit both types of seats?
The guards only fit the carbon bucket seats. You will find them at edguardusa.com. Once you know the leather and stitching colors I would call Ed directly and he will get you hooked up.
Thanks: Spoke to Ed Saade & order placed😀
Awesome, Ed is a great guy and also a 4RS owner.
i would recommend to option the hood+rear trunk to be painted and remove the side stickers as its a small car with too much color contrast, and black roof. imho
Thanks for the input. What's nice about wrap is nothing is permanent. You can lay it down and if you don't like it you can remove it.
Great breakdown, Barry! Might be a small detail but I noticed that your editor took the time to blur out the plates in the beginning, but around 35:56 the blur is missing. Just wanted to make sure you were aware, in case you wanted to fix and reupload.
Thanks for catching this!
Great spec. Sun visors are very noticeable on a Spyder when the top is down. I'd consider the Race-Tex or leather options.
I have Race-Tex visors in my other two cars but opted out of them on this car because I've seen these flipped up on Spyders taking bugs, rain, etc so I figured an easier to clean plastic visor might be better for this application?
@@ItsTrackTime Perhaps. I have leather visors on my 718 Spyder and have not experienced any bug problems. My 987.2 Spyder had leather visors too. I live in the PNW and haven't had any problems with rain on the visors either. Personally, I'd go for the Race-Tex visors to match the rest of the interior. YMMV, enjoy!
Thanks for the tip!
Still waiting on the brz track car review it would also be cool to see you run it at the track and compare what seems to be almost a budget version of the 4rs
That video is still on my list and running it at H2R is still in the cards.
Just changed my splitter on my gt4, it’s super easy and doesn’t require bumper removal 👌
Nice, was there a video showing how to do it? The video I saw made it look awful.
An issue with white dials is that the warning lights were prominent due to higher contrast against a white dial. I guess you can get used to it. I would add auto dimming mirrors just because we have a lot of trucks with bright lights in Texas
I don't drive much at night with my sports cars so didn't consider the auto dimming mirrors. I'll have to give that a go on my next daily driver. When warning lights fired at the track and I only had a split second to seem them I never missed on with the white dials. I assume you are saying they don't show up as clearly against the white?
@@ItsTrackTime I meant it the other way, with the normal gray dial, the warning lights (when off) are less distinctive and stay in the background but show up fine when lit.
Ah, I'll look for that next time I'm in the car. Thanks for the pointer.
Will it take long to arrive?
They are saying January but these things can sometimes be very fluid.
Seriously, I call BS on if one of these oils will cause a motor to blow versus the other. Sometimes motors blow for no reason....it does happen. 99% of the time it is because the motor loses oil pressures on the track due to either low oil levels or high lateral g's or usually a combination of both.
Point of this story is just to brag lol. Only cause you understand cota lap times and what it takes to get a good lap there. I went to cota with a c7z stock power with a small wing and goodyear 3r tires and smashed the c7z street tire record with a 2:16.8. The only faster c7z I've seen was a very built high hp, hoosier a7 in cold weather went a 2:16.2 or a 2:15.8 I love this video man. Randy, doing this and you not wasting it is awesome. Great use of resources which is key to success in grassroots racing. Maximize everything. My top speed on back straight was 154. My speed through that first fast sweeper before the eses was 97. I think that's where my car made up time was surprisingly in the fast sweeping corners. Thank you for making this video.
Thanks for watching! 2:16 is no joke. All of the rubber under the Vettes give them tremendous mechanical grip. Would be interesting to compare your lap to something like a 992 GT3 RS and see where they differ. I'm guessing they would be exactly opposite despite having the same lap time.
automatic?!
PDK = double clutch manual
@@ItsTrackTime he’s not shifting
The computer is shifting and running the clutches.
@@ItsTrackTime yeah so….. automatic
Just a difference in terminology. Automatic "shifting" as Randy is using it, yes. Automatic "transmission", no.
Couple of things - best quote “I have to lift and I don’t want to…” ; question - I’m retired now and keen to do some track work - I used to race moto so the urge is still there but with age comes the cage (cars) - so wondering what’s the annual run rate for expenses or even per session (tires, rebuilds, brake flush/pads, all that stuff) and track fees? Leave the car out of it - I’m thinking 911 s with mods or a 718 trim lower than gt4 rs. I won’t be able to use the speed of a higher end kit for a while if ever so thinking it’d just get me in trouble and most more.
For the 4RS every weekend requires: Track fee $1000 Tires $2100 / 1.5 = $1400 Tire Mounting $250 / 1.5 = $166 Pads $1100 / 2 = $550 Brake bleed $400 Oil change $300 So something like $3800 For my 987.1 race car Track fee $1000 Tires $1600 / 1.5 $1066 Tire Mounting $250 / 1.5 = $166 Pads $1100 / 6 = $183 Brake bleed $400 Oil change $300 So something like $3100
Can I use this Porsche c40 GT oil for my 2nd gen Panamera GTS?
It's a better oil so I believe you can but I would follow your warranty.
@@ItsTrackTime my warranty will expire in 5 months. The Panamera GTS manual says Porsche c40 VW 511 00 0W-40/5W-40. So this means I can use it without effecting warranty period right?
The 718 GT4 has an 8000 rpm engine in it and they don't recommend using the C40 GT oil in it. I would consult your Porsche service consultant.
This is so interesting, thank you for making this video.
Glad you found it interesting.
“Straddling the sausage…?” 😮Sheesh! 😂 sorry, I’ll grow up someday. Awesome vid tho.
Sounds like a good plan. You could just stiffen the front sway bar to tame the rear end, then add the MCS shocks so it’s better over the curbs. (digressive valving) You’re smart to go with the MCS shocks over the KW’s as parts will be easier to obtain and probably cheaper. Penske’s are also a great option.
From the factory the sway bar settings were medium/medium so when the backend started coming out we did just that - moved the front bar to stiff. After driving this setup Randy recommended moving the rear bar to soft. Good to hear you also recommend MCS - Thx.
Love. All. Randy. Pobst. Videos... BTW. The. Cars. He. Drives. Are. Cool. Too...😂❤😂
I'm also a huge Randy fanboy! Over his career he's had the opportunity to drive many off the hook cars.
love your data oriented approach!
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Absolutely fantastic video and analysis! Really enjoy following your journey to get it dialed in. 👍
Thank you very much for the positive feedback! Good to know others find these videos useful.
@@ItsTrackTime I should have also mentioned I think your content helps anyone that goes to the track, ie don’t have to be a Porsche owner to benefit. 👊
Great content Barry, I'm just setting up my 4RS, but not sure I want to go to the cost and extensive mods of Dundon. One guy I met at COTA in a GT4 doing good lap times (2:22s he said) suggested 4RS was overstrung, the spring rates are much higher than the GT4, could one lower rates and help prevent such big bounce back, negating need for more damping? I have MCS on my BMW track cars & they are great but it all gets expensive to chase a few seconds...
The spring rates are higher on the 4RS. The Spyder RS, on the other hand, has softer springs so that might be a place to grab specs and part numbers from. 2:22 is a great time for a GT4.
A lot more up and down movement on the GT4 in the triple screen comparison. Seems like suspension is working much better on GT3s
I was talking to Felix today and he said he has never upgraded the shock on the GT3s he maintains. Maverick, on the other hand, always upgrades to MCS. But most folks agree the GT3s handle much better than the 4RS straight out of the factory.