My channel is dedicated to making repairs, modifications, or testing anything automotive related. That may be a car, truck, shop equipment, products or tools. I will only produce a video if I feel that it is of some use. What I mean is you won't find any click bait type videos on my channel. I really strive to make my content as clear and concise as possible. I truly want you guys to be able to replicate what I am doing in my videos after watching them. I may only produce a video every few weeks or perhaps more constantly. It all depends on what I have going on in the shop and at home. Thanks for stopping guys and if you're interested hit subscribe
-Repair Geek
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What you came for starts @ 7:55
I painted my rear end with por15. Then I had a leak and sprayed it off with brake clean. Brake clean instantly removed the por15 it came off in sheets. It definitely doesn't like chemicals.
Great informative video thanks
I bought a compressor an didn't know if ot came with oil an installed it an my air is not cold ,compressor make a tiny nock in noise ? What can I do. Thanks
Very well explained 👍
Oh man I’m doing exactly what you did with usb port now😁
Can build up cause a bank 2 lean code?
what if i have a hole in my head with a shiny cylinder head and piston, looks like pitting?
I have personally flushed several ac condensor never had a problem flushing both directions you can buy a gallon for 60 bucks so I don't agree I would flush a condensor not buy a new one and a gallon of flush will do to ac syster
@11:48 Another video that uses this press set wrong. The plate with the groove in it goes the other way round. So that it only pushes on the outer race when pressing the bearing in. It's possible to damage your new bearing doing it as shown in this video. Pushing on the inner race should only be done when installing the hub.
pretty much what is happing to me . 2 grand they are putting a new timing chain in.
I think repair geek kick the bucket 🤓 R.I.P
I have a 2015 gmc 2500hd. I replaced the condenser and expansion valve, cause the it was only blowing around 65-70* when ambient is above 85*. Vacuumed the system and recharged it with the correct amount. But the low side pressure was close to 5psi low according to the chart. Any insight?
I think the hood would help
I’ve been driving 20 miles to Buc-ees to buy non-ethanol fuel for years and use it exclusively in my outboard motor and small engines with absolutely no issues. I also use marine Stabil in the fuel.
Stay away from Dorman intakes y'all. The doorman intake is not Oe. 99 lincoln town car, to the left of the alternator that would be passenger side there are two screw holes that appear to be in place, they are not. The holes don't go through the intake so that you can attach that front left side to your engine, and it's too thin to drill. Regardless how we did it we could not get it to stop leaking. Going to Ford tomorrow and buying some high dollar Ford parts to get real Oe. The difference is a slow leak at idle that gets worse at about 1500 rpm, took it all apart twice to double-check and make sure that the job had been done correctly, it was done right, in this scenario Dorman is trash.
I replayed your video and made an ambient temperature table as well as a Low side / High side lo-hi diagnostic chart
👍👍👍.
FORGET THE FORMULAS- JUST WEIGH OUT THE REFRIGANT - U ARE DONE
This is very well done!
Not all cars you can just code them like that. espacially ford. you have to go through ford themself to get them programmed.
Mastercoat is all sold out. Just great.
Funny thing is most good luck getting master coat though they have been sold out
“If you guys can’t afford a screwdriver. You got bigger problems than spraying some undercoat” 😂😂😂
use a flame inside the pipe to offgass
Im surprised you didn't add Chassis Saver to this comparison. I'd have to say it's a better known product than some of the others you tested.
My pressures are normal but I don’t feel cold tube after the expansion valve. 😇😇😇
I have a question. If my pressure readings are normal but still not cooling can it be my expansion valve stuck open? 😇😇😇
I installed a pioneer double din, everything is fine except for the radio signal. It’s spotty until I put the hand brake, any ideas?
I have a question. If my pressure readings are normal but still not cooling can it be my expansion valve stuck open? 😇😇😇
Damn my Fit just diagnosed with a bad head gasket. No misfire but has misfire codes with 1 and 2. Dropped a camera in there and it’s starting to look pretty clean. That with bubbling coolant in reservoir.
Thanx
That is a great video.
Carbon can also score your cylinder walls leading to oil burning and loss of compression. The best way to do it is just to take the intake manifold off and do it right.
*i can't get Rust-Oleum 7779402 in CA* but get it via a hop skip and a jump restoring a vintage bath tub with clawfeet customer wants that paint, maybe toyota black. i'd rather brush it on then wetsand 'ol school style
Best video on this I've seen! Great job!!
If compressor had sent metal fragments in the system , should I replace evaporator core as well or not ?
So I bought prefilled compressor for my car do i still add required oil to the lines, condenser, evaporator and drier?
Nice video. I was waiting for dowel pin info but nothing :( Apparently there's different kinds? Some have a shoulder.
I appreciate you showing the attempt with the milwaukee impact. I have the same one and thought I would be able to get it off without that other socket. Good info 🤙🏽
I live in South Florida and I have a 3 year old 4Runner. I've been on the beach with the 4Runner 4x so far. I noticed some surface rust on some of the suspension parts. I'm a little confused on how to attack this. I planned on using some Surface Shield on the chassis. My question is, do I treat the rust or just spray Surface Shield over it and call it a day? Thank you.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
I'm more interested in the garage bay you have there :-) is that in a residential garage?
Yes.
22:55 sounds like Puddin' talking (without the Puddin' accent)
I hope Fluidfilm is kicking you down some cheddar, 'cause this is a multi-year, multi-video product placement and endorsement. That's got to be worth more than the pittance KZread is shuffling begrudgingly your way. You should provide yearly updates so long as Fluidfilm is painting your pockets green.
I've never gotten as much as a thank you from them.
@@RepairGeek WHAT? That's an affront to all that is sacred not only in the world of automotive repair, but also in the world of KZread influence on product marketing! I'm insulted on your behalf. These people must just be OBLIVIOUS to the world around them. Steeped in their own Lanolin, I suspect. Hmmm. I might just shoot them a very polite email notifying them of their oversight. Surely at a minimum they can kick you down some free product. When I've provided product suggestions to manufacturers, or notified them of glaring issues of functionality, safety, or product specifications, I've asked them to make sure and include a note in their product manual about my contribution. Their own engineers should have figured out these sorts of problems for them, instead of me, a non-paid engineer. It's the very LEAST they can/should do. I'll mull over the email concept a couple of days before I pull the trigger on that, if indeed I do pull the trigger on that. Thanks for the response. Oh, BTW, do you take suggestions for repair tasks, or do you basically do whatever it is you're normally going to do, repair-wise, but comb your hair, wear clean clothes, shave, mic-up, light-up, & video record before proceeding, or do you have a grand strategy mapped out & planned day by day, month by month, year by year, so as to fulfill a strategic repair matrix paradigm? And if the latter, do suggestions ever weigh on the scales of that repair schedule?
It is a shame products like this is very regional. All products in this test are either non existent or cost twice as much in EU countries. Here we have products from Bilt Hamber, Hagmans, Jenolite, Carosol and others. But noone has made a serious attempt to test and compare these products in the way you and done with US products.
What worked for me is using gun cleaning brushes, like 22 cal. long ones, bend the tip a bit and you can reach around the back of the stem. Get a couple cuz they will come out really dirty!!
Is there a different between solvent and water based products? For example, the Chemical Guys VRP product is water based so you won't get the shine BUT isn't water based products far better to protect against sling of the products onto the car after you drive around. I have read that most solvent based products sling onto the paint around the car. Then adding to what the video mentioned that they last around 3 days makes me think the water based product should be used otherwise you get the sling of the product for not much result (longevity).
I think you did a Great job in this video!! Thank you!!
You didin't die got me :DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDdDDDD