Moto-Resto, LLC | Machine and Repair
Moto-Resto, LLC | Machine and Repair
Welcome! I focus upon vintage/antique/classic motorcycle repair and restoration, with some additional content about motorcycle related but not necessarily repair related features. I only do work on my own stuff because of insurance issues. It's a long story. Anyhow, please feel free to comment and make recommendations for content. I will certainly help you out on your project by answering questions but I cannot take any customer work in any longer. This section updated December 2022.
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Heads up that the Dyna systems (coils and ignition units) are reportedly made in China now and not as reliable as the older versions. Also, KZ 900 and Z1 should both be 6mm exhaust studs. If you worked on a KZ 900 with 8mm studs then someone had probably installed a KZ1000 head. Probably none of this matters to anyone.
Great video, I don’t have the garage, tools or skill set. But the information is great so I understand the pricing…anyone in Miami that knows of a reputable shop / private mechanic?! The shop I took her for a general check and rear break /oil change was $300. Priced ok,so I may use them, he was going to send me an estimate.
Seriously? I did my own from day one. $300 bucks is crazy.
@@MotoRestoFL glad you have that skill set….! No garage and my tools are limited. But maybe I will get more knowledge and confidence.
I have the same engine and it has always seemed like it lacked power. Good video thanks
Do you start the Honda Valkyrie you have to have spark plugs in the wires and have them grounded for it to kick over
You should try a mower shop not a big box store
There isn’t any near me or anywhere close that sells the consumer level yard tractors except big box. The ones we have are all zero turn and higher commercial models.
I had bad luck with the k&L float needles on my zg1000. Random flooding issues. Paid the price at 45 bucks each for oem. That hurt but two years out and running correctly.
Most of the time they work great. But I gotta go with what the testing shows at the time of the work being performed. It’s the only metric I have to go off.
This is a great video to show what a bit of thought, planning, and ingenuity can accomplish. Some of us are fortunate to have machinery to accomplish a task like this. The issues regarding customer service are rampant throughout many industries. Poor customer service is infuriating. The thought that you need to bring fuel, oil, and a jump box to cover possible needs reads volumes. BTW I still have a Honda HR195 from 1985. I keep it serviced throughout the season and winterize it when the time comes. We are moving back to the east coast to some acreage so that little mower will be retired for the most part. I rarely permanently retire mechanical items. Remember when we would travel to the hardware store to test TV tubes? Replacement tubes would be available below the tester. Memories....... A very different world. I believe that thought process is what attracted me to the restoration business. Be good. Remain safe, Thanks Tom
That part is prime for 3D printing. Cause all that matters is the width of the pulley and the diameter and the rest about fitting the bearing is EZ PZ.
I’m not smart enough to understand that technology. If it’s not metal, I go into vapor lock. You should see when I do work with dead tree carcass. It’s quite disturbing. 😳
MTD makes like 95% of mowers on the market. Sounds to me like the carb was vapor locked. Prolly had very old fuel still in the carb and its even possible some of that old fuel gummed up the needle float. Once the fuel in the carb was used up, no more could flow.
Maybe, but all three brand new with no gas in them previously (allegedly).
Nothing tears a bearing up faster than no lube, too much lube, contaminants
I bought a Bad Boy mower 7 years ago because I was tired of buying mowers that only last a few years before they fall apart and it was the best investment. 7 years and not one problem, change the oil and blades and mow mow mow. they are expensive but worth it. Great video.
Thanks. I have heard them from others and looked into them but all I see are zero turn. I don’t want one of those because it won’t fit in my shed even with the wider door I had them spec out. I have a 1998 Simplicity 38” 15.5 hp hydro that won’t quit. I use it for pulling the yard trailer around to pick up trash. After Hurricane Ivan in 2017 I had a huge amount of debris and used that little mower to pull a 4x8’ flat bed regular trailer around and put load after load of yard waste debris to the road. You have to understand my yard goes back quite a ways from the road. The majority of debris was back there. It was fully loaded each time. That mower still works fine. I used it yesterday in fact. The deck is almost gone so it’s a backup to cutting grass, but my point is, they used to build good yard tractors. This YTS3000 is pretty good also, I finally got that where I want and it cuts great. I just put a Vevor high back seat on it. Cheers.
How come the Valkarie 1500 doesn't have a pump where my carb. VFR750F does?
Tank petcock is high enough to provide gravity feed.
My air compressor has a Kohler. Runs good for a while . Then when idling down after letting it catch up. Sometimes it shuts off . Probably need to drill out the plug at idle screw.
Should have added this to my comment below. Makes me wonder if they lean these mowers out so much to pass EPA? If they are carbureted that might be the issue. But NO excuse for selling (or building in the first place) mowers that won't run, and I agree with the customer service incompetence that you observed. What a change from 20 years ago......
Purely leaning things out doesn't really fix emissions
That spring clip reminds me of the clips used to hold the piston pin into the piston/connecting rod small end on my CL360. I had that clip fly like yours and my wife and I spent 15 minutes trying to find it (if you can't find it you almost have to assume it went down into the bottom end of the motor)! Prefer the ones that use snap ring pliers!
Life saver!
I think I might know who screwed up the original valve guide install. Had the same issue and same explanation on one of my heads. “That happens sometimes, don’t worry about it.”
I’d have left it if the customer didn’t want it done but he did. I hear from him periodically, says it still runs great.
As said on the ZX10 video, look for O-ring kits with various dimensions around what you need, that'll work. Of course then the question is how long do those last. I'll do the varb again (proper all balls kit this time) and let you know what the cheap Chinese O-rings look like after half a year.
I do that. Z1 Enterprises sells them. If I kinda know the general size I’ll use them. They’re Viton.
Visually nicely kept machine! Just did 2 ZZR 600 carbs kind of 3 times over. Looking at this vid I feel I dind't do too badly. I missed the corrosion on the T-pieces. Bike is still not running nicely, will do them again soon. I struggled with the bolts of the L-bar to disengage the 4 carbs as well, I didn't think of heating them up. Used combination of grips together with a screw driver, that worked best. I cut a straight line for a flat screwdriver on 2 of them. Bitches, those 8 screws! Note that there are always only 3 screws on the throttle bar. Don't know why, but that's how it is! I used standard O-rings from chinese website, just a range of O-rings to cover what is required on those carbs. The box of +/-200rings (most of them useless of course) cost just as much as 2 from the OEM website. The box should cover rebuilding 3-4 carb rebuilds...
If this helps someone: the innards on the switch side are 100% the same as on the SC24 (cbr1000f) atleast of the facelift model of the sc24. So if one is available, and one not..
Ah... that's great info. Thanks.
this water pump looks super similar to my 2004 VT750 Shadow's water pump, minus a few slight cosmetic changes. Do you need to empty the oil when replacing these pumps?
Yea, they're low in the case.
Great video but you cut the part that I wanted to see
What’d I leave out?
Great video, thx for the technical information, greetings from the Netherlands
Hello there was wondering if you have quality carb rebuild kits for an 86goldwing 1200
I don't, but look around online. the K and L kits aren't all that bad. Supposedly, made in Japan.
Fantastic work..how can someone contact you for work?
[email protected]. Thanks.
Awesome ! Thanks ! 👍👍
I watched a whole lot of these video's and ....... this is by far thee best 👌🏾 🎉 i appreciate you guy 😊
Good
Valkyrie videos perform well on KZread, eh....??? 8K views so far....
Good for my videos. It's all perspective.
Love the sound of the flat six, great job!
This is pure gold.
I get abt 10 nails on average during each tire's lifespan. "Properly" patching by a mechanic would cost $1,000 -- if I can even find one to do it. I use the plugs and I'm good to go. The only issue with those plugs is that they tend to leak slowly after a few weeks.
lesson learned, follow exactly what the shop manual says....with my 3rd gen magna, i decided to install the rubber boots to the carbs first. took me more than 1 hour and still can not install the carbs. i remember it was easy the 1st time i did it. so finally decided to read the manula again... which says...install the boots to the block 1st....and yes, it took only 1 push....LOL
Beautiful bike, glad you got it sorted out and it sounds great.
Amazing... 👍👍
You have the patience of an oyster, my friend.
Thanks, the other day on this old lawn tractor I bought, there may have been a high-velocity flashlight launch episode. Maybe. lol
❤Sounds Awesome 🎉
I really appreciate all your videos. Just got done doing a set of 97 Valkyrie carbs and pressure tested them like you did here. My carbs leak down very slowly after setting pressure at 5lbs. It takes6 minutes for them to leak down to 4 psi. How long should pressure hold for? Can't wait to get my bike running. Has sit for 17 years. Carbs were a mess as well.
It's a reference test so that's probably good. Switch out to a vacuum pump and try that direction. If they seal under vacuum 100%, which is what I'd expect, dun worry bout it as they say in Jersey. Cheers.
Man, what a project! I went through this on a '78 Goldwing (GL1000) about 29 years ago. Even with close to $300 in complete carb kits, floats, needles, and seats, it never would idle properly. I specialized in automotive electrical and carb repair at the time, but the Honda CV carbs are on another level.😜 I finally built a common airbox with runners to the individual cylinders, with a Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor, and it turned into a completely different bike! It idled dead smooth at 750 rpm. and even though it lost a little bit of top end, it was predictable throughout the rpm range, and the fuel mileage jumped to around 46 mpg after I got the jetting just right!😊 Unless you're building a show bike, I'd never recommend tackling these carbs. Nowadays, it would probably be even better to set it up with Haltech programmable EFI, and get rid of the carbs altogether. With the crappy ethanol fuel we're dealing with now, you'd probably have to rebuild these every couple of years just to keep it running properly.😳
I saw only one of those conversions on a GL1000, maybe it was yours I don't know, here in Florida on a Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club event, probably 10 years ago up in Ocala. The guy popped the fake tank cover off and I was like, woah.... no kidding. It ran perfectly and sounded great. Frankly, I'd love to try that mod someday. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL I did all this back in 1995 actually, before the internet and 3D printers were a real thing around here. (I'm in N.M. btw) The design was fairly simple except for working out how to keep the runners on the OUTSIDE of the manifold box to alleviate any restrictions or weird flow characteristics. I made the lower part and sides of the box in one piece, out of 1/8" steel, and drilled the holes while it was still flat so that they were actually a little below the bottom corner of the box when it was folded up. There were some weird compound angles on the runners that took a lot of filing and fitting, until I could actually tack them in on the bike, and then removed the whole assembly to finish welding it. I drilled the top plate for the carb inlets and mounting bolts, and welded nuts underneath for the mounting bolts before I welded the top plate onto the box. I also made a custom throttle cable eccentric for the Weber throttle shaft, so I could use the double throttle cables and a fairly light return spring, and not worry about it getting stuck open. It actually was much easier to twist than with the stock GL 'jungle gym' throttle linkage!🤣 Overall, I think I only spent about a week designing and fitting everything before I welded it all together. I was really impressed with how well it ran afterwards, and once I fine tuned the jetting, it ran even better! I rarely had to get into the 'secondaries' on the Weber 2 bbl. to get into traffic or whatever, but you definitely knew there was something different under that fake gas tank with the howl from that Weber, when you grabbed a handful!😄👍👍
Enjoyed the video Tom,, so you. Like the valkary flat six. RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
I am TRULY AMAZED !!!
Your content is top shelf. Thank you! I picked up a barn fresh Voyager XII and your series on that has been priceless.
I get nightmares from that bike. Good luck. :)
WOW !!! Boy you are GOOD. Is it (Valkyrie) now OLD technology? How would you describe it in your own words? How does it compare with the Goldwing technology??? THANK YOU VERY MUCH sir. Regards from 'OZ'. (Australia)
I can't speak on the Wings, I've never worked on one. As for the first part of your question, it's complicated. Not the answer, but the setup. I have a hard time describing this sometimes, but any multi-cylinder engine which is carbureted must be treated with the concept that the carbs are Precision Fuel Metering Devices. Consider the challenges of the engineers on later units. The have to walk a very fine line between performance, balance, fuel economy and EPA standards for USA bikes. Thus, they operate on a thin line of air -- fuel -- ignition -- timing -- valves, etc. Carbs really need to be 100% spot-on in order to be at the place the imagineers designed the ENTIRE system. Valve clearance, compression, ignition voltage, it all plays a role. Extricating everything else and assuming it's nominal, I treat carbs like I said, as precise fuel metering devices. As such, I deal with them very... precisely. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL THANK YOU VERY MUCH sir for your detailed reply. Very Much APPRECIATED. Thank You. Hav a gd 1 !!
I love these I have never had one, but maybe this summer is the year or maybe a Goldwing we'll see
Three words: Get. The. Wing.
AWESOME VIDEO !!!! I’ll explain why this is awesome. Triumph 900 and 1200 engines have a mysterious knocking that occurs after the first or even second oil change. Mine is a new 2022 Triumph Scrambler 1200XC I purchased as a left over. It was running great until the second service and with only 1900 miles it immediately developed a knocking noise. Many people with many different ideas about what this could be and the worry that it could cause engine damage, this tensioner in my opinion seems to be the answer. My only question is why would the noise start after 30 seconds and not immediately? Although mine would start after 30 seconds but yesterday the noise was immediate. THANK YOU FOR THIS EXPLANATION !
My Kawasaki Nomad 1600 did the same thing way back in 2006. Does the Triumph have hydraulic lifters by any chance? If it does, I wouldn't worry about it unless there's something specifically known about them (sorta like the roller lifters on the Chrysler 5.7 Hemi). I don't work on Triumphs so take my advice with a grain of salt, or perhaps, grain alcohol. Cheers.
Amen to the engineering nightmare. Bikes should not be built like a round of Tetris. About the brakes, supposedly theres a spot inside the caliper where an air bubble can hide. Try fully depressing the piston back into the caliper and bleeding any air again. My handle would touch the grip like yours until I did this. Thanks for the info on the carb sync, I really need to do that.
Good points, but the bike is loooooong gone... I shall keep that in mind.
I admire your big brain. Always enjoyable videos.
Big what?.... oh, you said brain... thanks. :)
@@MotoRestoFL Not those kinda videos.
@@MotoRestoFL BTW, you've scared me with your Valk carb rebuild videos. Twenty plus years with no issues even after 5 months yearly storage (Canada). So much can go wrong......
Went to see the guy again, he swapped the rear sparkplugs for some platinum ones and was awesome again. However, there are signs of issues returning. There's so many variables it seems with pods and open exhaust systems. Forgot to mention that the swapping round of mains was an idea l got from a forum post which also advised raising needle a little. I don't think my guy did this coz he thought it would run too rich if we did. I get that because the plugs have always shown signs of a rich condition.Any thoughts? 😅😅
Possible solution/conclusion: My mechanic asjusted the slow mixture screws a bit today, and the symptoms have all but gone, still a bit of decel popping but smoother overall.
You must be referring to the VTX or another V-Twin where sometimes the front or rear jug has a slightly larger main jet. I think that scenario depends on whether the engineers drank liquor the night before designing the thing, because sometimes, their logic makes no sense on some of 'em.
It's me again. The bike was pretty good after this makeshift fix but l felt like it was missing something and popping was annoying, so l had the guy give the carbs another clean, replace shut off valves and swap main jets aeoind so that the rear was now a 138 on the front was 142 I think. Tbh they may have already been like that lol. Anyway I had also bought some foam pod filters. Bike ran great but rapidly went bad. I turned out air fuel slow screws a bit and that helped for a day or so. The popping was still there and, within a few days, she was breaking up at WOT and became all but unrideable.
You must have something else going on. Did you check the rubber insulators where the manifold goes to each head? Sounds like a vacuum leak. I've only worked on a handful of these but they all have been loose when I checked the clamps. Could be cracked and petrified.
@@MotoRestoFL I wouldn't be surprised if there was a small as the bike does make soft little farting sounds now and again and has even cut out in the past. Anyhow, the guy messed with mixture screws a bit and she's been pretty sweet since. Possibly lacking a bit low end but hey, it's only a 650 and 30+ years old.