Пікірлер

• 
  @paulmoran4095Күн бұрын

  This is so sad….but can only look ahead as the owner. The car is in good hands now. I have an ‘86 930 and it worries me that in another 10 years it will be very difficult to find someone qualified to work on it. My mechanic is in his late 70’s. Porsche seems to be recognizing this and getting some training done for their dealer network techs for the classic cars.

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  @klassikats16 сағат бұрын

  The only problem that I am hearing is that Porsche themselves are having issues finding the people with the knowledge to train new techs on the older cars. This is always the issue with the dealer networks. Once a car gets to be 5 to 10 years old it tends to fall out of the dealer network. The dealers dont tend to stock parts for cars past 5 years old and once a car hits that 60 month mark it is usually out of warranty. This usually pushes the service and repair out to the independent shops. The focus for a tech working at the dealer is always on the new technology. This coupled with higher turn overs at dealerships results in the loss of knowledge and skill sets. This is not a new issue and this has been the normal in the automotive industry forever. The big differences that I see in todays world is that the base skills are being lost, information is being corrupted, and lastly the value of the cars have increased so much. New cars today require so much less service that the basic mechanical skills are no longer trained and those skills are being lost. Simple things like mixture adjustments are no longer performed by the mechanic and instead are locked out and controlled by the engine management system. This results in new techs not having the tools or the experience that is required on the older models. With todays information super highway the amount of wrong information out there on service and repair is just out of control. I cant tell you how cars I have repaired because the owner/shop tried to fix an issue using information they found online. Lastly, now that these cars are worth so much more money, we see more and more people trying to cash in on that fact. Shops springing up with little to no experience with product line and lacking the tooling and experience to accurately repair the car. Often these shops have good intentions but just lack experience. The only problem with that is that vehicle owner pays the price of that learning curve, both financially and with the frustrations of a bad repair. Kurt

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  @jesse8183 күн бұрын

  Slightly over wear on a 4 bearing cover, anyway to address it or replace?

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  @klassikatsКүн бұрын

  If the cam box is worn then the only option is to replace it. Kurt

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  @bryceg57096 күн бұрын

  I made a tool on my 3d printer it goes on the outer splines and is marked with the inner spline 9 degree angles and has a ring you turn. pop it on index the ring to be say 5 9 degree marks counterclockwise of 12 o'clock pull bar out aim indicator at 12 oclock and insert. bang 12 O clock. now you use your magnetic angle tool and since it will only go on at 8.18 degree increments its very easy to hit the spline you want. Now I can directly hit a degree angle pretty much first shot. atleast once I have first trial fit angle.

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  @klassikats6 күн бұрын

  Nice. Kurt

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  @dennisspors52646 күн бұрын

  No problems until the fuel hoses were all changed. If we increase the fuel, the system is readjusting the mixture to lean again. I will have the shop check the fuel pressures. Thank you

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  @klassikats6 күн бұрын

  Your welcome. Kurt

• 
  @shelia-fq5ye7 күн бұрын

  Example of something that is 10 micrometers/scale

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  @klassikats6 күн бұрын

  thanks

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  @dennisspors52647 күн бұрын

  Sudden problems with a part of the CIS system. When warm the 76 911s won't idle when warm. No problem with start-up but as it gets warm the rpm drops and then when operating temp is reached, there is no idle. It also runs rough with a few pops. The fuel system (pump, and lines were replaced about four months ago and it worked great. The problem started when the idle dropped a few 100 rpm when warm. Then after a few drives, it will not idle at all. I am thinking there may be a leak (hose) at the warmup regulator? The box and pop-off valve are in great shape with no cracks.

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  @klassikats7 күн бұрын

  I would look at fuel pressures, sounds like the control pressure may not being working correctly. Kurt

• 
  @jesse8188 күн бұрын

  You prefer the time serts over the case-savers on meg case? So many mixed reviews.

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  @klassikats7 күн бұрын

  They both work just fine. I am just used to using time-serts as that is what we used when I worked at the dealer and just continued to use them in my own shop. Kurt

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  @marcelmed45748 күн бұрын

  I have a 1982 911SC, where are you located? My engine could use an expert to make adjustments.

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  @klassikats8 күн бұрын

  We are in Flagstaff, AZ Kurt

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  @axjr63939 күн бұрын

  Do you think a clogged valve body will cause no forward or reverse ? My trans stop working so I changed the fluid it smelled burned and was black so I replaced the filter and the oil and it drove perfect fine,few days later the trans stopped working again and the new filter was dirty again.

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  @klassikats9 күн бұрын

  No, if the fluid was black and smelled burnt then the transmission is done and it is time for a rebuild. More than likely the filter is being clogged by debris off the clutch packs as the friction material is flaking off. Time to pull it out and go though the entire transmission Kurt

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  @axjr6393Күн бұрын

  ⁠​⁠@@klassikatsok thank you , is there a way to test the the clutch packs ? I took the valve body apart and it had small metal flakes and 1 kinda melted check ball inside ,can that maybe cause the trans fluid to be burnt ?

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  @MECHANISMS2SEE10 күн бұрын

  Seems you have a sweet wife ! I have a spare 915 I need to open up and evaluate.

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  @klassikats9 күн бұрын

  Thanks Kurt

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  @MECHANISMS2SEE10 күн бұрын

  What an ACE !! I ditched my CIS and running 40 IDA Webers but still have CIS on my VW rabbit pickup so this in a great insight. Thank You.

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  @klassikats9 күн бұрын

  Your welcome, Kurt

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  @dab974213 күн бұрын

  You can also charge with Butane gas without modifying anything. In fact, the new gas, R600A, is mainly made from it, and is just as flammable. So 1 kg of gas in the car is no more dangerous than the 85 litres of fuel in the front tank of the 911 ! The manufacturers don't tell us because it doesn't make enough money for them...🙄

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  @klassikats10 күн бұрын

  So its true that butane can work in an A/C system although there is no way that I would put it into an automotive A/C system. R600A is also not an automotive rated gas. it is used in refrigeration units and not in mobile A/C units. There are currently three types of A/C gases used in automotive applications, R12, R134A, and 1234Y. All of these gases are mildly flammable under the right conditions. However, no where near the flammability of butane. Kurt

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  @dab974210 күн бұрын

  @@klassikats And the flammability of 85 litres of premium petrol is higher than that of less than a kg of butane !

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  @jesse81817 күн бұрын

  Kurt, great video as always. And that is awesome looking engine stand. Where can I get one?

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  @klassikats16 күн бұрын

  I made it Kurt

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  @jesse8188 күн бұрын

  ⁠@@klassikatsis it base on VW 643 stand? Edit: So this crankshaft is from other video. Sorry I got confused with order of video assembly.

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  @user-nx24ev5gf18 күн бұрын

  your rear subframe is shifted 5 mm to the left

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  @klassikats18 күн бұрын

  There is no subframe on a 911 Kurt

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  @James-ez9zr19 күн бұрын

  Good Job !

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  @klassikats18 күн бұрын

  Thanks! Kurt

• 
  @stefanlindemann688619 күн бұрын

  Dear Kurt, thank you so much for all your videos on rebuilding carbs - I've seen them all and they helped me a lot 😄 I'm having one little question left: what's your best-practice to inspect the throttle shaft bushings? Both for Zenith and for the Weber with the teflon insert. I assume they wear to an ellipse form...? Looking forward to many more videos 🙂 Greetings from Germany, Stefan

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  @klassikats19 күн бұрын

  So most of the wear that i see is in the throttle shafts more than the bushings. The Teflon bushings I just always replace and dont really look at to hard. The bronze bushings I measure using a pin gauge and replace or oversize as required. Kurt

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  @stefanlindemann688618 күн бұрын

  @@klassikats Dear Kurt, That's very good news (I ordered a 8.000mm pin gauge already) - thank you so much for your prompt reply. From which rocking of the pin gauge would you refrain from reusing the standard shafts? >0.1mm? Or less/more?

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  @klassikats18 күн бұрын

  So the running clearance should be 0.03 - 0.05mm usually the throttle shafts will measure 7.97 to 7.99 mm and the shaft bushings will 8.00 - 8.03 mm. I will discard the throttle shafts at 7.94 mm and will replace bushings or overbore, which ever one you prefer, at 8.05 mm. It is very rare for me to be able to reuse throttle shafts. Most of them measure well below 7.90 mm in the bushing area. Kurt

• 
  @jtubedude20 күн бұрын

  Always great to watch and learn from your videos. Are OEM SC pistons hard to find and what will you suggest for a replacement set? Thanks.

• 
  @lukasmatzinger19 күн бұрын

  Almost nothing is hard to find in the 911 world, just very expensive. Mahle, CP, JE, Wössner are all respected sources for air cooled pistons, probably a bit controversial but dare I say in this order....

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  @klassikats19 күн бұрын

  No Pistons are not hard to find. Although sometimes Mahle will tend to run out as it seems that they doing limited manufacturing runs these days. Kurt

• 
  @kevinthomas876820 күн бұрын

  Great footage and appreciate the analysis as you go. Great to know not just what happened, but why.

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  @klassikats19 күн бұрын

  Glad you are enjoying the videos Kurt

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  @martinhoward180220 күн бұрын

  Great team work, nice vid and explanations.

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  @klassikats19 күн бұрын

  Glad you enjoyed it! Kurt

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  @stevechiarchianis643920 күн бұрын

  Another great video Kurt. Thanks...

• 
  @klassikats20 күн бұрын

  Thanks again! Kurt

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  @john2ndname20 күн бұрын

  Thanks Kurt..Always learn more and more by your videos...God bless you and mrs kurt!

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  @klassikats20 күн бұрын

  Thanks for watching! Kurt

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  @user-gl2eq2ly4g21 күн бұрын

  Love your work!!! Thank you

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  @klassikats20 күн бұрын

  Thanks for watching! Kurt

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  @richardgraham116721 күн бұрын

  So much to learn with every video, thanks!

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  @klassikats20 күн бұрын

  Happy to hear that! Kurt

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  @tycotoys21 күн бұрын

  Thanks Kurt, these videos never get old.

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  @klassikats20 күн бұрын

  Glad you enjoyed it Kurt

• 
  @chuckglass884921 күн бұрын

  Thanls for sharing! I always enjoy your work, you two!

• 
  @klassikats21 күн бұрын

  Thanks Chuck.

• 
  @user-gx7gv7ph7j22 күн бұрын

  where can i buy that jack

• 
  @klassikats21 күн бұрын

  The jack is just a regular 2 ton shop floor jack. The adaptor to fit the engine is a Genuine Porsche tool and you can still buy them from Porsche, just be prepared to pay a premium for it. Kurt

• 
  @jesse81823 күн бұрын

  Do you preferred machine work done to the case every rebuild? Line board or close and honed method, is there a proper measurement or limit to how much machine work can be done to your engine case? I thought 7R case was stronger.

• 
  @klassikats21 күн бұрын

  Yes, pretty much every case will need some kind of work. It just takes accurate measurements to determine what parts must be corrected and how much material needs to come off. Like anything, there are limits as to how many times this can be done. Every case and every engine rebuild is different, and the case warpage can also be different. Now, once a case is machined, I usually expect it to hold its tolerance for a lot longer than an original case. This is due to the seasoning effect of used cases. This means that because the case has been heated and cooled a bunch of times throughout its life, this has allowed the case to move and settle into a more permanent position on a molecular basis. Also, these engines do not see the kind of use that they used to. So, rebuild jobs tend to last time wise a lot longer, (Years). In the mag case world, the 2.4L Mag case is the best case on which to base a performance engine build. There is a reason why the 2.7L was the last magnesium engine built by Porsche. By the time everything was machined out to accept the larger bores, everything was just at its limit, both thermally and mechanically. Kurt

• 
  @JamesGolomb27 күн бұрын

  Kurt, I am so grateful for these instructional videos on the CIS. I am the original owner of a 1976 2.7L 911S. It was initially bought in the US but has been living in Switzerland for the past 35 years. The engine was recently completely rebuilt and is now running better than ever. For the past 48 years I was always completely baffled by the CIS. It was the one aspect of the engine that for me was essentially a black box. After some exhaustive reading and watching your videos I now have a good understanding of what it is doing. Thank you very much! Only one question: Still not sure I get why the manifold pressures differ reciprocally with changes in engine speed between the WUR intake and the deceleration valve intake as both seem to be below the throttle butterfly (although on different sides). A few more words of explanation here would be great.

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  @klassikats23 күн бұрын

  James, Manifold vacuum is an indication of load not engine speed. when the engine is has a High manifold there is minimal load and therefore less fuel is required. When manifold vacuum is low there is more load on the engine and it requires more fuel. The decel valve connection and WUR can both be below the throttle plate although port sizes can also vary which will vary the amount of vacuum placed on each unit. Kurt

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  @user-bw3us9kz6j28 күн бұрын

  Thank you I’m watching from the uk England 👍👍👍👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

• 
  @klassikats23 күн бұрын

  Your welcome glad you enjoy the video Kurt

• 
  @MK-xn6qx28 күн бұрын

  I have 2 wires coming from External VR. They both are in a plastic socket pin. Which one should I use? The red one or the black one? I saw you putting brown or red one in the small socket..And thanks for this video. I had no idea.. huge saver

• 
  @klassikats28 күн бұрын

  If you are using the internally regulated alternator you dont use either one. Kurt

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  @MK-xn6qx27 күн бұрын

  ​@@klassikats I have exactly same Valeo Alt like yours going on 1970. I saw you slotted a brown wire into a clip next to Volt Reg at 04:02. Is that coming from engine case? And in the end you attached a braided wire on larger bolt... Is that from engine case? I have a large brown wire coming from engine case, a blue wire and a red wire. Then I have 2 wires brown and red in a socket which went on old Alt which had clip. I am just a bit confused with your brown and braided wire... I have a stud next to the black cap (top opposite to VR)... thats for Blue wire?? Then I have a red sticker that says B+30+ stud, right next to a inbuilt blue wire... thats for Red wire?? I have small clip next to the VR (where you inserted a small brown wire).. not sure what that wire is on your car? Previously I had a socket with 2 wires on my old ALT. This one has only 1 clip as a socket. And a large brown wire coming from the engine case (that I suppose is the main ground wire) The one you attached to the last stud on the Alt housing? Any help is appreciated before I fry my brand new ALT.

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  @MK-xn6qx27 күн бұрын

  @@klassikats There is a black and brown wire coming in a single large plastic socket. Do I cut the black wire off, tape it and use Brown wire only to clip it in and then also use large brown wire coming from the engine case to attach on the fan housing nut?

• 
  @robfrost1Ай бұрын

  These videos are fabulous, thank-you so much. I read elsewhere that if your allowable play in the guide is x then the valve can wobble 2x on the dial gauge, which if true would have meant some of your wear was within the limit.

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  @klassikats28 күн бұрын

  No not at all. I dont know where you read that but it is not true. Kurt

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  @robfrost125 күн бұрын

  @@klassikats I think the logic comes from the play in the valve at its head being twice the stem to guide clearance. This is because the valve can move directly left or right an amount exactly equal to the valve/stem clearance. However additionally, by moving the top of the stem to the right, the head can rotate left an amount equal to half the clearance and can rotate right an amount equal to half of the clearance. it's half each way, because it's protruding about half of the length of the guide out of the guide so can only rotate half as far left as the top can move right. So the play at the head of the valve is double the stem to guide clearance. I guess this could be verified or rebutted by measurement.

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  @klassikats21 күн бұрын

  Yes, I understand the theory you are basing it on, but for that to work, the valve would have to be held perfectly in the center of the guide without touching the guide and always return to the point after being moved to one side or the other. Which we know does not happen. Instead, the valve stem sits against the guide and, therefore, wears against it every time it moves. The rocker arm action adds to this movement because it does not load the valve directly but instead creates a side movement that highlights both wear and movement. One of the ways you can see this wear in action is to have a guide that is worn, and you measure the wear in the direction of the rocker action. Then, turn your dial indicator to 90 degrees and measure the valve rock. Usually, the side-to-side wear will be significantly lower and sometimes even within the wear limit for a valve guide. It will just show you how much the guide wears on the thrust side. Kurt

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  @jeffhammond8969Ай бұрын

  Your videos are so well done and informative, even if I will never take on any projects like this!

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  @klassikats28 күн бұрын

  Glad you like them! Kurt

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  @dennisvogelАй бұрын

  It is acceptable to reuse the old washer, even though it is a wavy washer?

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  @klassikats28 күн бұрын

  Yes you can re-use it. Kurt

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  @bmwn5238Ай бұрын

  nice vids thanks a lot

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  @klassikats28 күн бұрын

  Glad you like them! Kurt

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  @bmwn5238Ай бұрын

  really nice! your the best

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  @klassikats28 күн бұрын

  Thanks Kurt

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  @bmwn5238Ай бұрын

  really nice!

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  @klassikats28 күн бұрын

  Thanks!

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  @bmwn5238Ай бұрын

  you got a brand new crankshaft genuine bmw ?

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  @klassikatsАй бұрын

  Yes.

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  @bmwn5238Ай бұрын

  my question is if you think that the cram shaft is not straight or the bedplate got bend , I have a engine block similar to this block is the n20, your is an n55 but the contraction is the same other then the n20 is 4 cylinder. H ave not been able to determine the problem my self and cant find a dissent machine shop to help me with figuring out what the problem, you have some tips on how i can mesure the crankshaft for strait let me know, and thank you i love you Porsche vids, Porsche is my dream car !

• 
  @klassikats28 күн бұрын

  you can measure the crankshaft and or camshafts for straightness by using a dial gauge. To measure the bed plate and main bearing saddles for straightness I would start with a precision ground straight edge and a good set of feeler gauges to check for distortion. Then you can measure the main bearing tunnels using a bore gauge to confirm that they are concentric. Kurt

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  @bmwn523828 күн бұрын

  @@klassikats thank you so much; I understand, this very helpful

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  @bmwn5238Ай бұрын

  nice!

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  @klassikats28 күн бұрын

  Thanks Kurt

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  @MK-xn6qxАй бұрын

  Weber sounds better

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  @klassikats28 күн бұрын

  Thanks Kurt

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  @harmangill823Ай бұрын

  Amazing video, so thorough and you did a great job explaining the process. I will be attempting this job at home and this video will be a great help. I do have a question, does compressing the brake pads and letting the old brake fluid from the bleeder screw introduce air bubbles into the system? In your video, you mentioned you were going to flush the brakes afterwards anyways but I was curious if you did not flush the brakes after this job, would there be any air bubbles in the system. I plan to have the brakes flushed at a later time by a professional mechanic. Thanks!

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  @klassikatsАй бұрын

  No it wont let in air by opening the bleeder valve while pushing back the pistons. Just dont forget to top off the brake fluid after your pad change. Kurt

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  @harmangill823Ай бұрын

  @@klassikats Appreciate the prompt reply. Cheers!