IPT Performance Transmissions - Your Transmission Experts Since 2001
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This is a great video, thank you for sharing! I am working on a 2006 Outback with the 4EAT transmission. It seems to try and shift into 3rd almost immediately after shifting into second, then shifts back into 2nd. It only does this when it is cold, then shifts normally once warm. I'm thinking a set of solenoids may correct this issue, do you think there is any reason to get any further into the valve body? Thanks again!
@@NotSoBasicThings I don’t know of a reliable way to get solenoids- other than used (not always reliable) , they are only available in a complete valve body from the dealership
@@iptperformancetrans I believe I’ve found a set, although I have to verify. Just wondering if it’s safer to do the whole thing or if solenoids are likely to solve the issue. Thanks again!
Tanks for the tips I have almost the same problem 2 years after rebuilding and my transmission is not engaging when hot I change the oil filter and put the output shaft sensor because it shows code 0720 and still drive like enough the get heat and if is taken out of drive and try to go is not engaged is like slips revers is good in some times if (D) don’t work I put the selector in L1 and rev the engine it will engage some times I need to wait for it to cool down or get cold water on the oil cooler to acelérate cooling after is cool down it gets going no problem it can be 2 hours driving but if is taken out of drive I need to wait again I have started to tink is my TCM on my Nissan Sentra 2002 gxe 1.8 automatic 😢 any clue is appreciated is my only car at the moment I am the only owner since new .nice Chanel nice video it helps people 💪🏾👍🏽god bless 🙏🏾
@@maxmax9722 You may have multiple problems, the engagement issue is probably mechanical in nature
I own a repair shop and I. Bought a reman valve body for a vw 01m on eBay during covid because my local transmission suppliers didn’t have the transgo kit I always install on them in stock they couldn’t get for a few weeks. I went on eBay to buy a kit and found reman valve bodys the list was endless for 100 bucks. I messaged a seller with good feedback asking if it was actually a reman or just a cleaned up used part and that I will be taking it apart to check before I install it. They assured me it was a reman. So I ordered it. When it showed up and was not why was in the picture because the picture showed new solenoids but I got one that someone took apart without the tool so the connectors from the ribbon harness were broken off in the solenoids. The pr bore was egg shaped so bad that the transgo kit I install in these likely wouldn’t even work. They gave me the run around trying to get my money back. I said what you are doing is fraud ur selling me a “reman” unit that’s in the worst condition I’ve seen.
Not really surprising- That sounds like the kind of valve body that you would get for $100
Os pacotes de discos composites e aço do cambio 5EAT são bem diferentes do 4EAT.
Uma excelente aula!! Que Deus te de muita saúde e paz.
You located in California?
@@vsh510 We’re in NJ about 10 minutes from NYC
A750e I have drives in reverse and neutral. Is this a common issue? Someone told me b1 and c1 possibly welded together. What are your thoughts and what should I look for to test. Not an expert but I have rebuilt a few transmissions.
@@antoniobarber8650 I’m impressed, sadly you are absolutely correct about having a welded clutch pack. I definitely see that particular failure on occasion in these transmissions⚙️
@@iptperformancetrans thank you. If I need any hard parts what’s a good reliable website or place to buy from?
Do you have any videos doing the 4eat out of an h6 outback it has the filter lines that lead to the trans filter instead of direct spin on thanks and great videos!!!!!
@@CircleCityExplorer What year is it?
mission oil pan torque.... plz
@@user-qg1zv4xd6i 12 or 13nm is good but I cant say that I torque pan bolts
I have an 06 hawkeye, and I made sure it was installed correctly. However, it dont move in any gear, but if i put it in R, then rev it to like 4k rpms, then it begins to move. I can't seem figure this out. Can you point me in the right direction? Do i need to bleed it or something? If not, ima tempted to just manual swap it.
@@xeonentertainment4493 How much fluid did it take to fill it?
@@iptperformancetrans a little less than 5 quarts
I say that cause I also did a oil and filter change at same time.
@@xeonentertainment4493 The capacity of this transmission is about 10 quarts
@iptperformancetrans there is what I would say enough fluid to the point where is is abit over filled on the dipstick, but I left it that way for it to make up what's not in the converter, but it still won't move so I feel I am missing something here I do have another 5 quart to top it off if needed and I do have a diagnostic tools however no dtcs have been set upon start up or selecting different gears
I have an 04 Forester 2.5X with 194k miles on it and a (I believe) 4eat tz1a2. Each solenoid is bolted in individually instead of a bracket. It clunks from 1 to 2, revs really high between 2 and 3, then 3 to 4 is fine. There was some flaky bits in the oil pan but no big chunks. I replaced the oil about 8k ago and this started a couple 100 miles ago. It still had the pink silicone on the pan. I’m replacing solenoids and filter. I’m thinking about dropping the valve body and cleaning it but don’t know if that’s worth it. Should I be concerned about the health of the trans or not?
I’d be concerned ‘Cleaning’ a valve body isn’t a legitimate repair- if it need to ‘be cleaned’, what do you think is making it ‘dirty’? The answer is that if you have to clean a valve body, the transmission is failing and generating debris.
@@iptperformancetrans How soon can I expect it to blow up? And can I put the 4eat with the solenoids that are held in with the one bracket or do I have to get the exact same one?
@@joshclasing6287 1) No idea, I’m a transmission guy, not a clairvoyant As far as swapping transmissions- exact tag # for exact tag # only
Hello From NYC @iptperformancetrans, I currently own a 2008 GX470 Lexus equipped with the A750F transmission. I am exploring the possibility of upgrading this transmission due to the enhancements made to the engine, which now boasts over 800 horsepower with a reinforced bottom end, along with other necessary upgrades including a 2.8-liter supercharger running at 25 PSI and the required electronics. I have encountered challenges in finding adequate support and information regarding the A750F transmission. Considering that the AB60F transmission is considered the superior counterpart to the A750F, I came across a video discussing the enhancement of the load capacity of the AB60F. My inquiry is whether it is feasible to enhance the load capacity of the A750F to match the specifications of the AB60F. Furthermore, if enhancing the A750F is not viable, I am curious to know if it is possible to adapt the AB60F transmission to the 2UZFE engine using an adapter plate. I am uncertain if the bellhousing bolt pattern of the AB60F is compatible with the 2UZFE engine, hence seeking clarification on this matter. Thank you for your attention to these technical inquiries.
@29:20 where we can see the converter housing bushing. Is the proper orientation of those notches top-and-bottom? and NOT side to side with the oil passage on the right?
Do you guys do local pickup?
Hi John i notice you guys sell valve bodies for the ab60f trans , I have the DTC 2757 , it’s intermittent. But when it comes on it does go into a limp mode . Do you think your Valve body you sell can remedy this ? . Fluids been flushed with WS fluid from Toyota but only gave me about 2 months before DTC came back . Thanks
There is a good chance that it could fix it, the problem is often a result of valve body wear
@@iptperformancetransthank you for the reply!
Interesting. I’m getting P0720, car won’t go over the 3rd gear, it will turn into D by itself when I try to use the manual mode and I get a TCC solenoid reading of 0 value when scanning while running.. not sure what else I can test to identify the source of the issue.
Nothing to test, your tcu is bad
@@iptperformancetrans how reliable it would be if I fix it ? Any reco where ro get the part ?
@@Hsouthh You need either new from the dealer or exact match good used. I only get new ones here because I can’t mess around
@@iptperformancetransyou’re right, probably way safer than trying to fix it. Dealer price is about 650$ + reprog
@@iptperformancetransthanks !
You say the common failure/wear is the pressure accumulater valve....any reported symptoms specific to this truck?
Symptoms vary depending on where it’s worn- high pressure, low pressure, soft shifts, hard shifts and code p2714 are the common complaints
@@iptperformancetrans I only wish it would throw codes... would make it a lot easier. It started out with a "pop" sound when going down hill coasting. If I touched the brakes at all it would initiate a downshift and that downshift would pop Usually 4->3 or possibly 5->4. Now I hear it during a lot of downshifting. Never on upshit... I just know it's something i need to address before it gets to the point of breaking something.
@@iptperformancetrans you guys are about 3 hours from me. Are you still 24-48 turnaround?
I recently swapped a transmission for a used one on my tundra 2013 rwd and it drives good foward but reverse is neutralized any ideas?
There can be many reasons for no reverse but it sounds like your transmission is F-U-K-T
@iptperformancetrans I just drained the oil and re fill but didn't replace the filter or valve body anything I was hoping if I do that would fix it but just don't want to spend more time and money of is going to be worthless. :( so frustrating.
@@cesarhernandez9267 I don’t know why so many people believe that ‘changing the fluid’ is a ‘fix’ for a failed transmission. This is like spinning a con rod bearing and thinking that changing the oil and filter will fix the blown engine.
Easy cowboy 😅 I know I am just an ignorant Chemistry Engineer trying to learn a little bit of mechanics, do you think if I replace the valve body will get reverse back on my truck? Just don't want to be throwing money and labor hours for nothing. But also don't want to buy another tranny if I can fix this one. 😅 please help.
@@cesarhernandez9267 Very doubtful cowboy Your transmission has a 99% chance of being broken You might not like that answer but that’s the answer
Pretty much self-explanatory
Is there a recommended source for real valve body’s (rebuilt or aftermarket)?
No such thing as a complete aftermarket valve body and used ones are sometimes tough to find, it pretty much legwork and sometimes eBay has the right stuff but it’s a crapshoot
Great, can you make it on VTD Phase2 Version1?
Possibly, next time I’m working on one.
@@iptperformancetrans Thank you.
Do you know if having a little vibration when turning very tight at slow speeds on cement is more or less "normal" for the 4EAT in Subarus? I've had a hell of a time trying to figure out if it should be serviced for that issue or not. Subaru techs have said it's normal, lots of people online say not to worry about, others say get it looked at, some people say just replace the clutch packs, solenoid or valve body. But not really any clear answers from anyone, even techs and mechanics haha I assume part of that is also based on severity of the vibration/jumping in those certain cornering conditions and if it's accompanied by other symptoms. My forester has a little vibration when doing very sharp tight cornering at very slow speeds on pavement/asphalt/cement. All fluids are at correct levels and fresh and no signs of any metal debris so far. I'd love to know your opinion on this or if there are other symptoms I should look out for if something was on its way to a failure or more serious issue. I don't have any local transmission experts in the area I live and most techs/mechanics just say "oh don't turn full lock at low speeds on dry pavement" or something along those lines lol Sure, maybe it isn't anything serious (yet) but I still have a nagging curiosity of this issue my car has and whether or not it should be serviced and what it should be serviced for if anything. Thank you in advance if you happen to read this :) Great video as always dude!
i had some vibration at slower speeds like you described only when turning tight corners. Make sure the gear oil in your differentials(Someone said it was torque bind not sure if that is what it is called) have been serviced that fixed mine up but there are many other things that can cause that.
@@b469b Yeah it's torque binding happening in mine I'm pretty sure. We're your dif oils and trans fluids low? Or just old when you had the issue? In mine the gear oil in both differentials looks great and at the proper levels, transmission fluid is good as well, however I'll be getting all of the fluids drained and filled again soon and I'll update the post if that solves or helps anything. But I really wonder if it will need further more in depth servicing or not, so far nobody in my area has a clue what to suggest besides "it's normal", "don't turn at full lock" or "live with it" but no clear answers from anyone even after inspections lmao but the nagging feeling is "well something is clearly not feeling 100% in the vehicle because I've been in these same vehicles without torque binding"
@@gchabot1345 For me it fixed the problem with just the fluid changes(Diffs and trans). lucas fluid is compatible with the transmission(4eat) just as dextron 3 can technically be used instead of the subaru hp red fluid it says so in the manual(I still use oem). If it gets real bad or too expensive i would give that a shot. I might also recommend drop pan and replace the filter and put the old fluid back in but replace 1 qt with lucas.
@@b469b Good information, thank you! I'll see how fluid and filter changes affect the torque binding.
I already had this problem in a Subaru that I bought a while ago that had been sitting for a long time, it always did this exactly as you said, I used an additive and after a trip with the additive it worked well in the gearbox, the problem never appeared again. Lubegard red 60902
We specialize in Nissan and Infinity high performance automatics, valve bodies, torque converters and other heavy duty transmission components! Find Us: www.importperformancetrans.com/ 973.406.7000 Instagram - @IPTperformancetransmission Facebook - Import Performance Transmissions
My 2011 370z auto gearbox necked itself the other week. I've purchased a 2021 auto gearbox with only 30,000kms on it. The 2021 gearbox was installed without changing around the TCM. Nissan mentioned the car is stuck in limp mode due to the TCM not wanting to communicate with the 2011 ECU. After, the car was taken to a performance shop and updated the firmware in the ECU to 2021, the 2021 box TCM started to communicate with the updated ECU. However, the variable timing was thrown out. The ECU is now back to stock and our next move will be to install the old TCM from my broken gearbox to the new 2021 Valve body and tranmission. Would this work, are the value bodies any different between 2011 & 2021?
IMO the answer is always installing the correct transmission in the first place This is why I don’t know how to answer these questions- I never run into it. That said, if you use the original VB from the car, it usually will work.
Great video it definitely helped me with some trouble shooting. I am searching a no reverse issue on a new build.
That’s easy 1) No valve body o ring 2) Center Support incorrectly indexed 3) Missing or damaged center support I rings Pull the VB and check first but it’s most likely item #2 based on what I often see people do wrong
Awesome sir, I checked the o-ring and it is in place. I also applied air as you showed and it sounds like everything applies perfectly. Obviously not 😂 somewhere. Would switching valve bodies be a good idea to attempt to trace the issue? I also pressure tested the rc port before removal and even that one was low at 40psi in drive.
I have a 2009 g37 sedan but I bought a valve body off of a 2010 g37 sedan. Will it have to be reprogrammed ?
Reason I’m asking is because I couldn’t find one with the same year as mine 🤦🏻♂️
Could you please make a vid on RE5R05A band instalation
Band installation is pretty straightforward, are you looking for the band adjustment procedure?
Yes indeed, I would highly appreciate if you could put on some content on the band adjustment procedure, im sure that many of us DIY guys will highly appreciate. By the way, congratulations with your chanel and all the invaluable content you are giving out for free to the world and you make it look so easy! God bless you Brother.. I will work for free on your shop just to be able to absorb some of that knowledge! Keep the good work
Video on how to set backlash on these 4eat?
Maybe one day but for now, it’s done like anything else but nut and bolt the pump portion with the pinion in it to the diff case and do the gear set up like that. The carrier bearing housings are adjusters that are threaded, similar to how one would adjust a 9” Ford rear.
Hello, I'm in Brazil and I really needed your help, I saw that you know this exchange rate very well and you have a serious problem with mine. The ATF fluid has entered the differential and mixed with thick differential oil. The gearbox has been dismantled a few times but it's never resolved, it's not about that seal in the tube between the differential and the gearbox, where else could this fluid be passing through, we're lost, I really need your help. Thank very much
There’s several places from which the can leak. If you want to email me I’ll try to go over everything with you [email protected]
@@iptperformancetransHello, I sent you the email that day. thanks
Wholey clutch Batman
Yeah, there’s way more stuff in these transmissions than you should need to get 6 forward gears.
Hey man. I have a 4r75e in a e350 2007. Have you heard of them trans vibrating like CRAZY grinding Howling u joint sound. Its bad. I had the same thing happen to my other e350 van. This time im buying a remanufactured trans. I just pray its the problem. The trans is making a humming sound from front of trans pan. The output shaft has tons of play too. Just wondering if you ran into this problem. Thanks great videos bro. Ur a genius.
Thank you It’s hard to say. I’m assuming that you don’t have to be moving to have the noise?
Hello Iptperformancetrans, First of all, thank you very much for sharing your experience through your videos. I've seen a lot of your videos and I can see that you have great knowledge of the A750F transmission box, that's why I'm writing to you. I'm from Brazil and I have a TOYOTA HILUX SW4 3.0 TURBO DIESEL vehicle model 2014 (similar 4runner, FORTRUNER) that uses the A750F transmission. This vehicle has 60k miles and since I bought it used, the transmission fluid was probably never changed. This is the second TOYOTA HILUX SW4 truck, the first one I had had a 4-speed transmission. I'm writing to you because I have a problem that not even the Toyota dealership can diagnose (Either they don't want to give a diagnosis or they don't have knowledge). The problem is the following (it doesn't happen all the time), often when I park the vehicle, put the Shifter lever in P and turn off the engine, the engine shakes/rattles beyond normal. Something very similar happens when you leave the Shifter lever in D or R by mistake and turn off the engine, the engine shakes/rattles as if it would continue running even after the key is turned off. Based on your experience, could you please give an idea of what this might be? Could it perhaps be a problem with the manual valve? I'm not a mechanic nor am I trained for this but I am an engineer and I'm trying to diagnose where the problem might be. If you can give me an idea of what it could be I would be very grateful. Thanks for now.
Where can I get a TCM for a 2017 Nissan Armada with a RE7R01B transmission?
Hey I got a question that hopefully you can help me out with. I have a g35x and rebuilding the engine. From the calculations the engine should push north of 700hp but I know the transmission won’t hold, do you know a way I can rebuild the transmission that’s can handle much power? If so can you make a build sheet? I’ve looking at this topic for weeks and I can’t find the answer.
Hello great job do you have any video's of doing the phase 1 4eat? Trying to learn to rebuild them for the SVX. Thank you
I have my 2009 Subaru forester XT that just made a thud noise and I no longer have reverse. The car drives forward and had a issue with the viscous coupler. Checked fluid and has small metal flakes, do you think it’s better to buy a rebuild kit and fluid and try to fix it or should I try and find a used one?
It’s for me hard to say what you should do but it sounds like your trans is toast. Why not take it out and take it apart and then decide what to do?
@@iptperformancetransyeah seems like the next reasonable step I’ll do just that. Thanks for the reply!
Great video!!
We specialize in Nissan and Infinity high performance automatics, valve bodies, torque converters and other heavy duty transmission components! Find Us: www.importperformancetrans.com/ 973.406.7000 Instagram - @IPTperformancetransmission Facebook - Import Performance Transmissions
Video was great. But did not see you put in the spring. Which fit in the middle. Saw you removed it, in the take down video but not install in the rebuild
Hey is the upgraded performance rebuild kit you sell on the site the same one as here with the additional clutches?
It is not, what we do in house requires the machine work
@@iptperformancetrans ah i see so the rebuild kit online is like stock+ and the build services you do are the higher power setups? Is there any way i could send you parts to be machined? Lol thanks for the fast reply
Great video! My 2005 4EAT started slipping in 3rd. Once it shifts into 3rd, the rpm’s just shoot up and the CEL comes on. Drives normal in 1st and 2nd. You think it’s burnt clutches? Thanks
Yes, it’s probably done for
@@iptperformancetrans you were right! the high frictions/steels are warped/burnt, found the seal on the high clutch piston was torn and also the reverse clutch piston broke the top of all those towers. Have you seen that before? Would you recommend replacing the balance piston and the other pistons with the integral rubber like the reverse one you mentioned? This is my first trans. rebuild so I'm trying to get it done right the first time. Thanks
Is this the same as f-4eat in the ford escorts?
No. Other manufacturers use the same nomenclature 4 speed Electronic Automatic Transmission 4EAT Btw, in the day, we used to call the ford Mazda units ‘ecats’
Looking over your video I have a leak on 2010 legacy 3.6 5eat My front diff is completely soaked Cleaned it multiple times and I still cant put my finger on it I suspect it’s tranny fluid Diff fluid is clean and right on the full mark Tranny fluid I have to top up It doesn’t look like it’s mixed with anything else Do u have any guesses?
My 01p is draining so much of it’s fluid when you step on the gas, 1qt lasts 5-10min. All gears shift smoothly though, while there’s fluid in there. Most likely the pump seal as it’s leaking from between the engine and transmission?
Can you please make the assembly video as well?
I may at some point, I have a couple that I need to build. The downside of my shop being busy it that it’s sometimes hard to find the time to put out videos as often as I would like
@@iptperformancetrans Hopefully things will work out and you’ll get a chance to make a 01p assembly video. I’m looking forward to it! And it will be really valuable for many, as there aren’t many quality videos on KZread about properly putting an 01P back together! Thank you for your work and good content!!
Good day. Did you have reprogram the valve body with the tcm ?
No, it’s not necessary, or at least not with the ones being sold at this point in time
I just exploded the front diff (I think, haven't pulled the trans yet) in my '04 Forester XT with the 4eat transmission. The car isn't even that heavily modified, just basically a down pipe and catback and a VF39 turbo running 18psi that tapers down to around 13psi at redline. I was boost braking to do a test launch under a little bit of boost, and the boost had only reached about 5 psi when there was a loud bang and then gear oil all over the road. The transmission bellhousing is cracked all the way around almost 360 degrees right where it bolts to the main case of the transmission. I don't know if there was already a crack in the diff gears or something, or what, because from what I've read these 4eat's and the front diffs are pretty strong. Now I'm having a hard time finding a replacement transmission because I guess the 4eat in the '04 FXT was a one year only transmission and not interchangeable with any other year's and not interchangeable with the non-turbo forester either.
@iptperformancetrans ,is there a major difference between the ab60e and the ab60f valve bodies? 2wd vs 4wd. Thanks for any knowledge you can give.
They are fully interchangeable, there’s nothing specific in the valve body that makes it 2wd or 4x4
Do you need to reprogram the new/used TCM?
Thanks I have this transmission, won’t move in reverse or drive