Learning to restore classic cars isn't only for professionals. Follow along and you can learn (with me) how to do each and every step. I'm a long time DIY'er who finally built my dream shop. I'll be sharing shop tricks, info about tools, and tool improvements. I'm also beginning my restoration or restomod of my first classic muscle car, a 66 mustang convertible. Follow along as I learn and accomplish each and every step of the restoration. I hope to end up with a great education and a fun beautiful car too! Subscribe if you want to learn more about classic mustangs, restorations, restomods, engine building and more.
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i've watched every mustang vid & moste of the beetle vids thanks for the entertainment & motivation.
I wouldn't run the second line use all the filter system if not your defeating the purpose
Thanks for the suggestion.
I’ve watched all the videos of 3rd stall since about part 13 of the mustang restoration and came over from Jo Daddy’s. Love all the great work and amazing friendships you two share. Looking forward to more great work and videos.
Thanks! I've spent a lot of time following Jo Daddy too. His level of craftsmanship and skill is beyond mine, but I need to learn to be content with who I am. Thanks for following.
1972
Nice! My first beetle was a 72 as well!
I've watched all your episodes and that what I like to see on restorations of bugs.I'm also restoring a convertible,lot of work to get where you want.I enjoy watching your videos
Thanks. I hope your restoration is going well! What year?
@@3rdstallgarage 1972
I have watched every episode. I'm a fan of perpetual improvement projects. Favorite line from September 2022: "Maybe our goal should be not to use hot glue." I knew from then on that this would be a quality restoration.
We haven’t used hot glue yet!!! Thanks for watching.
12:50 "but... if youre going to do it.. you do it right!" I dont know why people spend all that time and energy taking part a car to restore it, but then decide to cut corners on the easiest things to fix/clean/replace. No matter what you're looking at.. whether it be a painting, a sculpture, a story, landscaping... it's ALWAYS the small details that separate a master from a novice.
So true. I think sometimes people just don't have the discipline to pay attention to details. Hopefully we have. Others may judge that we are the ones cutting corners. We are doing the best with the skill we have.
Thank you for the star wars reference😂😂😂
Glad you loved it.
08:17 a scungent tool? or scunchant? I couldnt find anything on google near those names.
VW Dash Switch Escutcheon Screw Tool www.jbugs.com/product/VW012941.html
Hey I have a 66 mustang and I need help with a few things would love some advise please let me know thank u
Feel free to send me an email at [email protected] I'm no expert, but I'll help if I can!
I checked this out, thinking I might need it, but ultimately did not. I applied a lot of penetrating lubricant to the bolts before starting the job, including shooting it through the little hole in the frame, and very gradually took out the bolts using a breaker bar, occasionally going in a bit, then out more.
Glad that worked for you!
Good job, i braced my convert before i did door alignment it work for me
Nice 👍
Glad that worked for you.
I've got on question I've removed the body from pan and disconnected everything so can I pull the motor and transmission all as one part? I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. It's a 69
I'm not 100% sure, but I think you could. But I'm not sure why you would want to. They are very easy to separate and move around the garage apart. Go ahead and try!
So the long and short is I bought one that ran but the body, pan and front end were trashed and a second with good body and pan no wiring and then a third with a good interior so trying to make one good one out of 3.
Just replace the whole bottom luggage
I think it would have been more work and less original metal left. But you are right, we could have.
After watching several videos of shop air set up and proper air compressor usage/maintenance I’m sold on your method of cooling the air before going into the air tank. I remember growing up how much water our compressor would accumulate. And it was always rusty, so we knew our tank was dirty. I think the only two things I’m going to different is add a desiccant air filter coming out of the copper cooling lines prior to entering the tank (for just more added extraction) and my lines will be simple so using copper throughout wont be too cost prohibitive. Thanks for the great ideas.
One person suggested, and I think I might try it, to have the air go through my copper tubing the other direction. That would help the air flow push the water down. I think that might be the one thing I would try differently.
That really sucks.
Yup
He then drags it out. 😂
Sorry...I missed what you were pointing out.
Nice work! I'll be starting on the tray on my '71 Vert, but unfortunately, most of the horizontal surface is total trash. I'll have to bite the bullet and buy the entire piece...
Good luck! It's a big job, but doable.
NEW Subscriber!! Love the build and great video!!
Thanks for the sub!
Looks great, good job guys
Thanks so much!
You will remove more moisture if you put the regulator before you dryer. When the air drops pressure it expands and gets colder and can't hold as much moisture so that is when it starts to come out on its own so there will be less for the beads to have to suck out of the air. All systems for sale as a kit are set up that way for that reason.
That makes sense. Thanks for pointing that out.
Looks great. Cant wait for part 37
Coming soon!
Should have pulled th convertible seatpan then put in the brace and then reinstalled
Might have been a good way to go too. Thanks for sharing.
Is there anyone making an aluminum oil filter & cooler relocation plate for these yet? I can only find older models with it available.
Not that I know of...sorry.
Hey guys amazing restoration im also making a beetle convertible you guys are both awesome im really enjoying to see u how you restored this very fabulus history cars, yes im still watching u now with my hot coffee,thanks
Awesome! Thank you!
What the name of the brand of the transmission cooler and did increase your mpg?
I bought it from etrailer.com and I can't imagine it increased my mpg at all. I think it just helps keep the tranny fluid cool which helps with longevity of the transmission.
The way you had it first was backwards in the sense of thermal dynamics. Run the hot air into the top of the coil so the coil can cool down as the air goes downward. You don't want the hottest on the bottom so that heat given off rises to the pipes above it. It will cool better with hot on top and cooler on the bottom. Plus the air will push any condensed water toward the drain tee near the bottom and not carry the moisture up toward the top. I used to teach HVAC and both air and hydronic systems balancing along with thermal dynamics, so I have some experience in that field after 46 years.
Hmmm....that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for pointing that out.
nice, good shaping n patching, bro!
Thanks!
Great review!
Thanks!
I made 1 long ago and i took it past a 90 degrees and it reduces the chance of it tipping back over.
Good suggestions. A slight tip might make it easier to work on too. Thanks for the "tip". ;)
You did a great job exposing the challenges of most conventional Weld-Thru. Most W/T manufacturers use zinc or copper in their products for two reasons. 1. For conductivity. 2 They actually want it to be a sacrificial coating. They want moisture to attack the zinc or copper prior to rusting or corroding the substrate ie metal. The challenge is most of the product burns off around the weld joint during the welding process as seen in your video; Leving the weld joint itself unprotected and vulnerable to immediate corrosion. Once corrosion sets in on the weld joint it creeps out (creep corrosion) onto the rest of the joint eating away the zinc or copper W/T. To date the best product I have used is from Like90 ( part# 10011) . It is a thin film resin based product that contains a corrosion inhibitor. When welding this product the resin liquifies, as it cools it pulls back around the weld joint. To insure complete encapsulation of the weld joint they (Like90) recommends the use of a secondary product Like90 Dry Film ( # 10012). This product is again a resin based product that will wick into the weld joint fully encapsulating the weld joint and any burn back that may occurred. Because the weld joint and burn back are now protected as well as there are no sacrificial corrosive elements included you are left with a premium weld joint.
Nice info. Thanks for contributing!
if you can find some at local scrap yard etc, get sole copper hot water baseboard sections as it has aluminum cooling fins on it. its a thinner copper though so care in handling , cutting it and soldering it is something to be aware of a guy told us .
Oh...that's a great idea!
Glad to see this system, especially the cooling arrangement between the pump head and the tank. Good call on the drop ear fittings and the 3/4" pex. You've convinced me to do the same. The leaking you experienced on the soft copper pipe is because compression ring fittings are not suitable for soft copper pipe - at any pressure. Flare fittings will work, no JB Weld required. If the JB fails going forward, you might want to consider swap out those compression ring fittings for flared fittings. No sweating required, no additional union couplings. You will need a flaring tool for the copper.
Thanks for the advice.
thanks!
Welcome!
hey man at 5:52 when discussing polarity for gas shield welding you said, "the wire that comes from the gun goes to the negative." doesn't the diagram show the work connected to the negative pole? and the gun is electrode positive?
Yes! Nice catch. I mispoke. Follow the diagram...which is correct. Thanks for pointing that out.
Good video
Thanks
Great mod! Thanks for producing it.Ilive in hot Texas and I am scared to death of these 62TE trannys overheating. Judging by the accent you live up in the middle-north where avg far lower temps up there. But just curious how many miles do you have on your 62TE and is it original? Thanks again!!!
Sorry. I've sold the minivan and don't remember how many miles are on it. Yes, I am in the northern Mid-west in Michigan. Thanks for watching the videos!
Okay man. Hope you got out of it. What you needed and thanks for the response.
you are the best ,asere . thank you 😂
Thank you too!
Yeah but how do you put it in reverse if its brand new?
I'm not sure if I understand your question, sorry. If you pull the hand chain in one direction, the lift goes up. If you pull it the opposite direction, the lift goes down. You don't need to shift it into reverse or forward. It's all automatic and held in place by the weight of the load.
it's hard to fix other peoples bad work but you guys did it like pros ;)
It's been a long road, but we are getting closer!
I am doing a 67 coup , your videos qre really good, thank you
You are so welcome. Good luck with your project!
@@3rdstallgarage thank you
On my 66 the "piller brace" installation looked as bad or worse than yours and I'm 100% sure they where factory installation. Had the Body shop add a bunch of welds per the 1966 weld and assembly manual. Reinforced a lot of areas using that manual. A large percent of the reworked areas where factory original. Ford was turning out Mustangs as fast as possible. Quality only counted on what would be seen on the showroom floor. Quality assembly was NEVER a priority on early Mustangs. They are well known for being poorly constructed right out of factory. Guess it wasn't to bad, 6o years later we are still driving them. They are not known as Ruststanges for nothing. They earned the reputation.
We are still driving them 60 years later. Makes me wonder if people will still be driving cars from the early 2000's in 2060??
@@3rdstallgarage Safe bet first gen Mustangs will still be around in 2060+. 2000+???
Turn the cooler vertically with drains at the bottom sadly seems to be the most efficient
As a cooler this works awesome. As dryer it works decent, but vertically may work better.
@@3rdstallgarage cooler doesn’t mean much if it doesn’t translate into dryer air running through your equipment only system I saw with one drain that looks to work halfway decent is liquid cooled copper coil both drier and cooler air Though i haven’t seen anyone use old car antifreeze for cold climates yet
Thanks for this very helpful video. I would add a few notes: (1) Regarding the plastic rivet thing that holds the dipstick tube to the oil filter housing, make sure when you put the new filter housing in place that the ear on the housing is *under* the ear on the tube. The holes in the ears will not align if you reverse this. Don’t ask me how I know this 🤬 There is a video on the Josh’s Jettas channel that covers this job, and he includes a shot of the plastic rivet before it is removed ; it shows the proper orientation. (2) If I was doing this again, after removing the fans I would cut a piece of Masonite or thin plywood to the same approximate size and mount it over the radiator to protect it from being gouged when the intercooler is being removed and replaced. (3) If you don’t already have a set of the special pliers that are designed for the hose clamps VW uses, buy them before you start this job.
Good input for everyone! Thanks.
Impressive Free-hand Drawing and plasma cutting.
Thanks!
I must have missed it in the video but what PSI are you running? I'm looking to do something similar as I have a lot of 3/4" pex but everything I see online says it's rated for 160psi at 73 degrees. I'm in texas so it'll be seeing 100+ regularly. My compressor is rated for 175psi. I can dial it down of course. Any type of pressure testing I have found on Pex online has just been on 1/2" not 3/4"
Sorry for the slow response. I'm running my system 130-140psi (I think).
Interesting. I'll be watching the series.
Enjoy!
The only thing I gotta say to people that are rebuilding vintage campers is if you have a camper that has aluminum sided and rough make sure that when you’re replacing stuff, make sure you replace it with non-steel screws because when steel screws rust when they’re used on aluminum, it actually interacted with the aluminum and makes the aluminum fall apart like you wouldif it was heated really hot
That's true. It doesn't happen really quickly, but the two metals interact over time. The factorys did use a lot of steel screws and they lasted 50+ years, but stainless or having a layer of something between them is helpful.
Very helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
0.29 seconds, am I the only one who saw a pig in the sample? 😂
Lol...it looked more like a big buffalo to me!! Thanks for making me laugh.