Great video, I have a CIC 2011 unit, I have an E93 (convertible), the OEM mic is in the steering wheel, I am not sure how to access it, have you done so for a convertible? Thanks.
@thekiller5000996 күн бұрын
So my CCC unit works fine but does not send signal to the fiber optic network, so I don’t have any sound, chime, unlock/lock sounds. But the screen and idrive still works. Will this fix it?
@funcarsgoodpeople3 күн бұрын
Hello 500099, adding the AC+AA Interface directly to the network will not help. I believe there will be still no sound because not having any sound means the fiber optic network (MOST loop) is broken. One or more module on the network is malfunctional so you need to troubleshoot first. (Please refer to my video about removing the CD changer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hJx_sc2Sfr2cZbA.html ) I recommend using a OBD2 scanner to see the fault codes about MOST loop. It will be quicker and easier. If you are not able to read codes, please make sure your amplifier is also on the MOST loop to isolate the problems. You can do a rough test by bypassing a single module on the MOST loop (with a fiber optic bypass loop) at a time to see which one is broken. When there is sound coming out of the speaker, the MOST loop is recovered so you know the faulty part.
@arditadili693611 күн бұрын
Hi I hope you can please help me out. I’m getting these error codes on my 2012 e70 X5; 9CBD, 9CBC, 9CAB, 9CDB, 9CDA, 9CAA, 9CB5. I changed my FRM and had it programmed to the vehicle VIN. Which helped restore a lot of things but now I have a lot of lighting malfunctions that I don’t know how to fix. I didn’t see any short circuits with protool, I also checked the fuses for the lighting and those looked good too. I made sure the battery was properly registered as well so idk what’s next?! Please help!!!
@funcarsgoodpeople3 күн бұрын
Hello Ardit, I looked these codes up and they can be related to the FRM, LM(light module, but E70 may not have this) or IHKA(air con module.) I am just curious that are these codes solely related the FRM or are they coming from other systems? e.g. 9CBD FRM (frm_70): short circuit at rear door contacts 9CBD FRM (frm_87): Communication with step motor controller on the left disrupted 9CBD IHKA: Independent heating, switchover valve 9CBD LM: Battery exhaustive-discharge protection: deactivation, side light Could you please let me know your ECU variant (frm_70 or frm_87?) to help me decide which code to study?
@arditadili69363 күн бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople Hi there! Thank you for getting back to my comment! I have FRM_70 and I wanted to clarify all the codes some other ones that might be connected to the FRM. I know I listed the 9CB5, 9CDB, 9CDA, 9CAA, 9CBD, 9CBC & 9CAB. Just wanted to add my comfort access doesn't work on the driver side front and rear door handles on the left but the right side of the vehicle works as well as the push start option working too. The power windows don't go up for both the front driver and passenger but the rear do as well as the control of the mirror and closing of them. I also got these code from the DME/DDE.... 3847: LIN/BSD, message; alternator: missing & 387F: Power management: Standby current violation. For the DSC (DXC_70) it got code 6EC9 saying: Interface FRM (status, door sensors): signal invalid. For the EGS the code 5125: Signal (door contact, 0x2FC) invalid, transmitter CAS. There's also two codes for the KLIMA2 (FKA_70) A1F1: Footwell-temperature sensor, right & A1ED: Seat heating, rear right (but I'm pretty sure I don't have rear seating).Also the JBBF (JBBF70) has codes A72E & A6D2 (both are in regards to the water valves for the driver and passenger sides, respectively) Yet I don't believe these codes have anything to do with the battery and FRM_70 issues, but I could be wrong. My plan of action are to change the belt tensioner because I've seen that moving a bit too much, along with the belt. That way that can solve the alternator message, because I'm pretty sure the alternator is in working order. On top of that I was thinking maybe the negative battery cable with the IBS sensor needs to be swapped out cause maybe that's giving those weird issues with the different terminals & battery discharge. I already changed the relay for terminal 15 but that didn't seem to do anything. Hopefully I've provided you enough information to help me get her running properly.
@chadfortman416215 күн бұрын
You fix it by never buying one 😂
@funcarsgoodpeople15 күн бұрын
Hi Chad yes that’s a precautionary measure 😂 I didn’t know that a lot of people have this issue until I published this video. I’m pretty surprised.
@barrygarfield367920 күн бұрын
Need some help! Installed my Mr12Volt for my Mercedes SL550 (2016) and followed the instructions carefully and while I now have Car Play which is great, the AC is not turning on at all (maybe when I put back the panel with the connectors on the back one got loose, (will find out in a little bit), but the main problems too are error messages.. It now has a phone icon and SOS Inoperative on the dash come up and the other error message is Auto Lamp Function Inoperative .. So frustrating to decide to use this Interface versus a few others and have these problems.. And there is no room behind or under the radio for anything so I had to put the wires through the side and to the glove box…. Waiting for help from customer service but they are 12 hours ahead and when they messaged me at 1:30am , all they said was if I had CarPlay working (which I do) then its wired correctly and focus on the AC connection.. It also sounds like the engine or fan in the engine compartment is revved up when I start the car which it never did before either.. man I am concerned this is messing up all the electronics. Was told for my version it should work with no problems and the DIP switches should all be off, which they are.. Any thoughts??
@funcarsgoodpeople20 күн бұрын
Hi Barry, I got your message and woke up on 3:30AM to see what I can help... JUST KIDDING! (The baby is sleeping nice so I have to use this free time for my hobby 😅 1. Air Con panel and cooler fan: I guess the cooler fan is in protection mode that it is assuming a hot climate because temperature information from the AC panel is lost. I believe that things don't break so easily but troubleshooting can be really frustrating like you said. I would isolate the possible causes as the first step. Please try to fix the connection of the AC panel. If not successful, restore all the connections to see if the car can be like before the installation. 2. Error messages: I read the official product page and think no particular coding (modifying the software configuration of onboard control modules) is necessary. BUT there may be some conflict between the modules after installation of new ones. So that's why I would disconnect the interface to see what's the cause. Before messing with the harnesses again, please try clearing all the error codes. Usually when we work on the car with the battery still connected, the car knows what modules/harnesses have been disconnected and logs that error. Sometimes the error codes stored in one module blocks the other modules from working normally, although the modules/harnesses have been correctly restored. So I recommend using a OBDII scanner to clear all the error codes (there will be hidden error codes!), reboot the car and see what still exists. 3. Take a break! You are very close to the finish line! And you are not alone! My engine is still taken apart but I hardly find time to continue the project 😭😭😭
@barrygarfield367919 күн бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you. I decided for now to remove the Mr12 Volt and put everything back the way it was. Man that was painful. Even after doing that , the AC isn’t working , the fan is definitely in overdrive and the error messages are still there . Maybe I should have tried to clear the codes but going to talk to the dealership to see if they can get the codes cleared and the AC working . Afraid to put the module back though it was nice having CarPlay
@barrygarfield367918 күн бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople success at last !! And after removing the Mr12Volt unit and harness and putting everything back to original, the AC still was not working and the error messages were still there . Was going to bring it into a Mercedes mechanic but decided to again open everything back up, put back the Mr12Volt wiring , harness, Fiber Optic cable loop and plug in the module. Then once I saw there was still no AC and the errors were still there I decided to check the fuse for the AC. It’s under the hood and a 7.5 amp fuse. Pulled it out and yep- the fuse was bad. Replaced the fuse and that did the trick- AC working and no more error messages or problems. Thank goodness ! Buttoned everything back up and can’t wait to enjoy having CarPlay ! I chickened out on adding a front camera but I know I have the option in the future. Thanks for the encouragement!!
@funcarsgoodpeople15 күн бұрын
Wow! Thank you for the great news Barry! I’m so happy to know this! Please come back and let us know how you like CarPlay!
@knighriderredux25 күн бұрын
Just installed on my 2010 E90 M3 with CIC and to me the sound is amazing compared to the AUX cable. I was using just the AUX cable for awhile and when i switched to this, the sound quality is really high, way better. I had the same initial reaction when I had the phone just paired on bluetooth, sounded muddy and not very good quality, but once I connected via WiFi, the sound and the interface experience was way better. I think it uses both in case the wifi kicks out, bluetooth takes over, which only happened to me once so far. I haven't tried using the USB yet, but i imagine the sound is the same as on wifi. Another point is when I was just connected through bluetooth, the navigation sounded like it was coming out of an old game boy, once connected to Wifi, it was crystal clear. I guess the point is don't use just bluetooth, use WiFi to connect to the Mr12volt system and the experience will be a whole lot better.
@funcarsgoodpeople20 күн бұрын
Hi Knight Rider Redux thank you for the feedback! Do you have any setting for the EQ on the iDrive or on the interface?
@knighriderredux19 күн бұрын
Still playing around with the sound settings, though not an expert at all in eq settings either tbh.
@funcarsgoodpeople15 күн бұрын
I see. If you see further improvement with the EQ settings, please kindly let me know how to do it 🙏🙏🙏
@barrygarfield367928 күн бұрын
Great instructional video. I just ordered the Mr12Volt for my 2016 Mercedes Benz SL550 and there were no clear instructional videos like yours . I have been a little confused about the fiber optic loop and other connections once I get into it so between a few other videos that show how to access the existing wiring and yours I can figure it out correctly.
@funcarsgoodpeople27 күн бұрын
Hello Barry thank you for the comments! It’s my pleasure! I completely have no experience on Mercedes but I’m very happy to hear that you’re completing your own DIY! You are also very welcomed to share the tips and your findings about installation for the Mercedes 🤗
@barrygarfield367927 күн бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you. I am going to photograph or video as much as I can mostly to make sure I put everything back in its proper place . Besides getting all the connections correct , the wood trim around the unit is my one of my biggest concerns as I have to make sure I don’t damage or crack it as I doubt I could even find a replacement and if so it would be very expensive. I’ll just take my time and figure it out . My car already has a rear camera but I would like to add a front camera in the grill but not sure what would be a good camera and how to secure and wire it without removing too much . Have you installed the wireless charging pad? Curious about that .. Thanks again .
@funcarsgoodpeople27 күн бұрын
Hi Barry trust me you will be good at disassembling and assembling the trims in a short time. The car makers have a logical way of putting everything together so it shouldn’t be super difficult 🤗 To install the camera, you can look at how modern cars do to have an idea about where to position it. I see there are a lot of aftermarket light kits for Mercedes so maybe the front emblem can be a good choice? And for the wireless charger, it still pending 😅 I want to install it and film the video at somewhere with good lighting. But now I am doing another project at the basement with the engine opened so the car cannot be driven. Will keep you updated in this reply!
@barrygarfield367927 күн бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you. They are shipping the box today and I should have it to install this weekend. I’ll try and do some research on a front camera as well in the meantime . Thank you for being so quick and kind to answer me. All the best !
@GGdevelopmentАй бұрын
Best walkthrough
@funcarsgoodpeopleАй бұрын
Thank you Erik! I’m doing my best 🤗 come back often!
@GGdevelopmentАй бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeopleI just got a 08 328i and am looking at options. This is the second video on using that module. I'm more tempted to do this then use an aftermarket radio.
@funcarsgoodpeopleАй бұрын
Hi Erik yes I like this module too. But there are viewers reporting success, and as well as problems with the installation(in the comment area!). Please carefully read the product description and requirements. Best luck for your DIY! You are very welcome to come back anytime!
@vk45dettАй бұрын
Hi, i am getting these faults with my fem 804094: KL30F relay front, internal fuse 2 defective 8041F0: headlight driver module(tms) right: coding error D90D2F: headlight driver module (tms) left: missing LIN slave 2015 bmw m4, recently i got theSe aftermarket headlights and was playing with the module cause one side was dimmer. And now the driver side headlight wont turn on... Where is the KL30F located ?
@funcarsgoodpeopleАй бұрын
Hi VK, I checked the wiring diagram/fuse map of the FEM(A173 Front Electronic Module) of 2015 BMW F82 and found that the fault code 804094 should be: 804094 Voltage supply, terminal 30F Fuse F11 defective (Same code may have different meaning on different version of control modules) The FEM is located at the bottom of the right A pillar. There are 14 fuse slots on it. Fuse 11 connects to the driver side headlight and Rear Electronic Module (are the rear lights working properly?) So please check if the fuse has blown. By the way, KL30F is a built-in relay inside the FEM. I hope it's not broken otherwise the whole FEM has to be replaced and that's gonna be a sad story. For the other two codes, coding error may due to aftermarket lights. You can turn off the cold/hot monitoring of the headlight by coding the FEM (please be careful with coding works!) and that code should stop coming. Missing LIN slave is becasue of the headlight has no power (Fuse 11 blown.) I could be wrong. You are very welcome to let me know the results. Best luck!
@vk45dettАй бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople thanks ! I changed the fuse and now only the signal works on the driver side light. I think i might have damaged the light
@BalanBro2Ай бұрын
Just a quick comment on the navigation volume problem you mentioned. I've encountered a similar issue on a different system. I use Waze for navigation. As a work around, you can open Waze on your phone directly (not connected to the car) and lower the volume of the guidance directly in the app. While this won't fix your issue of adjusting volume independently of the audio source while driving, it should allow you to "rescale" the navigation audio relative to music so the prompts aren't so loud. This at least worked for me using Android Auto.
@funcarsgoodpeopleАй бұрын
Hi BalanBro thank you very much for the tip! I looked up in GoogleMaps but there weren't such setting available :( I'm happy there's a solution anyway! Cheers!😀
@abduMalik070Ай бұрын
Thanks for the vedio.. I need your support my friend I have e38 bmw 740i 2001.. getting code IKE: voltage supple, terminal 15, fault It is running ok and i am driving it daily.. after warming or driving it will shake little, means not engine stable and a v. black smoke comes after driving but sometimes it stops smook.
@funcarsgoodpeopleАй бұрын
Hello Abdul, the IKE means "Integrated Electronic Control Unit" and it is actually the instrument cluster right in front of the driver. There are three power supplies to the IKE; terminal R, terminal 30 and terminal 15. Terminal 30 supplies IKE constantly. When you turn the car on, terminal R tells the IKE to light up. And terminal 15 tells the IKE the key is in ignition position or the engine is running. So if terminal 15 is faulty for IKE, it doesn't affect the driving. And you can drive the car as usual. If you want to fix this code, please check the wiring harness behind the IKE. And I think the engine shaking and smoke are other problems. Do you see other fault codes? You are welcome to send it to me! Carl
@abduMalik070Ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople highly appreciated.. your comment is so informative and specific.. The shaking and smoke resolved, it was vacuum hose blocked, and oxygen sensors bank 1 and 2 not working.. I replaced all of that and it is working v smooth.. engine light gone.. Now The power supply terminal 15 is pending, i will work on it this weekend and Keep you informed about what i might find over there.. Thank you again my friend
@funcarsgoodpeopleАй бұрын
That's good news! I'm happy for you! My bad to forget to mention in last reply; the three fuses for the IKE are: Terminla R - Fuse 43 (5A), Terminal 30 - Fuse 26 (5A) and Terminal 15 - Fuse 18 (5A) You can send me your VIN to [email protected] and I can send you related information about the IKE, e.g. the wiring diagram and connector pin assignment table, to you. I believe you are a professional faultbuster and that code will be cleared soon :) Cheers!
@mancing3122Ай бұрын
太详细了，谢谢你！
@funcarsgoodpeopleАй бұрын
不客氣！很高興能夠幫上忙！
@ashwinvenkat5953Ай бұрын
Hi this video is incredibly helpful thank you! I have one question.. I am struggling to route the original LVDS cable back down to the center console (11:15 in video) . Any further advice here?
@funcarsgoodpeopleАй бұрын
Hello Ashwin thank you for the commentscomment’s too! I understand how painful it is to working in the dashboard 😂 Since the LVDS cable has an L shape, it may be stuck easily. You can try to remove the mid-range speaker in the top center of the dashboard and reach for the LDVS cable. The other approach is from the top of drivers footwell, beside the steering column. There’s also some space you can reach for the cable. I also recommend wearing gloves and sleeves to protect your hands and arms from the contaminants inside the dashboard. They can be quite irritating to your skin 😨
@21-bitches492 ай бұрын
I can not switch to the Orginal Car System…..
@funcarsgoodpeople2 ай бұрын
Hi Two-one, How about pressing the iDrive Menu button on the center console? You can also assign the iDrive “mute” shortcut to the multifunction switch on the steering wheel. When pressed, the original iDrive can be switched. Let me know how it works!
@21-bitches492 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople the mute button dosent work, and i can not switch to the Idrive sytsem, i select the Idrive B (Ccc) version, but still dosent work
@21-bitches492 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople i found the problem, reselution was to high
@funcarsgoodpeople2 ай бұрын
Thank you for the feedback! Could you share again your iDrive version (screen size) and the DIP switch setting for all the viewers? Appreciated!
@alexsib76712 ай бұрын
Hi pls help witn O2 sensors! My codes 2729 and 274B. They appear all the time. After installing a new O2 sensors, they appear again after 10,000 km. Exhaust system tuning
@funcarsgoodpeople2 ай бұрын
Hi AlexSib, you are talking about the codes for E9x M3 right? I checked on bmwfault.codes and the codes imply broken harness or short circuit of the O2 sensor before cat on bank 2. Please see below; 2729: DME: Oxygen sensor, coast-mode diagnosis before cat., bank 2. Check plug and wiring harness to pre-cat oxygen sensor LSVK B2 (focus on opens in wires for virtual ground and pumping current). 274B: Oxygen sensor pump current calibration fault before cat. converter, bank 2. Check plug and wiring harness on pre-cat oxygen sensor LSVK B2 (especially trim circuit wire IA). Since you have replaced the O2 sensor, there is possibility that the harness or wiring got broken, as indicated by the fault codes. Please come back and let us know your progress!
@alexsib76712 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople yes
@alexsib76712 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople I checked the wiring, everything is fine. maybe this is due to the installed ESS firmware
@funcarsgoodpeopleАй бұрын
Thank you AlexSib, I'm not sure if the aftermarket firmware sets a different standard for triggering the error codes. This has to be verified by ESS. I am thinking of installing a supercharger to the S65 and that requires a new firmware too. I will respond to this comment if I find anything related to the error codes. See you!
@Domgir2 ай бұрын
Please do more Videos👌🏻
@funcarsgoodpeople2 ай бұрын
Hello Dominik thank you for the feedback! Yes I want to do more videos! Today I will take video about valve stem seal replacement DIY. Hope see you soon!
@davidmoyes65562 ай бұрын
Great informative video. I see that apple CarPlay automatically starts up when you have the Bluetooth pairing set up. Does the audio automatically work as well? I have another aftermarket solution with apple CarPlay that requires you to navigate back to the original CCC screen, select aux for the input and then navigate back to CarPlay (4 steps to navigate to select aux and 4 steps to navigate back). It is a bit annoying to have to do this every time I start the car if I want any sound through apple CarPlay. How does this unit work? I am guessing that going through CD allows it to keep that audio setting / input whereas aux can’t be the “default” audio source when you start the car.
@funcarsgoodpeople2 ай бұрын
Hi David, Thank you for the questions! The audio starts (becomes ready) automatically. It is because the iDrive plays CD automatically, and the Mr12volt interface emulates a CD in the optical drive, so the audio system automatically plays any sound from the interface. For the first time use, just select the iDrive media source as the CD, and press the iDrive Menu button to switch Mr12volt user interface (the black top menu as shown in the video) on the display. Then the interface will be the default audio source when the car is started. (The interface powers up when you unlock the car so if you use wireless connection, Carplay will be ready before you start the engine!)
@davidmoyes65562 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople thanks for confirming! My follow up question is: does anyone know of good aftermarket screens that can replace the OEM screen and work with the mr 12 volt? Too bad they don’t offer a screen solution.
@funcarsgoodpeople2 ай бұрын
Hi David, I did searched for the aftermarket screen+interface that can integrate to the MOST bus, but so far I haven't seen one :( I'd like to have someone telling us about it too!
@terrynewman16792 ай бұрын
The cold start is to allow the car to reach operating temperature. The secondary fan provides air so the mixture is not perfect so that causes the cold start. Its perfectly normal and should not be deleted. It adds a longer life to the engine because the engine is performing optimally when warmed up properly
@funcarsgoodpeople2 ай бұрын
Hi Terry, thank you for the input. I agree that there's a reason for BMW to design a engine like this. It seems to me that only some of the S65 engines give the crazy rpm fluctuation and misfire codes. I also believe that a brand new S65 engine will not give misfire codes and it may be due to aging of the engine. Sometimes the cold start stalls my engine so I feel it a bit troublesome. What do you think we can do about it?
@judicael_lfb3 ай бұрын
Thanks you for this video, do you know when your are realeasing the video for the wireless chargers and the cameras ?
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hi Judicaël thank you for the message! I am always preoccupied by the thoughts of doing the projects. However I just became a new father of a two-month-old baby 🥹 so I find it impossible to do my hobby… I promise i’ll report to you about those projects! Keep in touch!
@judicael_lfb3 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople Thanks you for your quick response, may Jesus bless your baby and family and don't worry take care of them first 🙏!! I Loved your professionalism details and the vibe that's why I asked ! I'm happily waiting for others videos !!🦾 Greetings from France !
@funcarsgoodpeople2 ай бұрын
Thank you Judicaël from France! Please don’t hesitate to send me messages. Although I don’t have time for editing right now, I’m very happy to look up any information for your questions. Stay in touch!
@cathybrown-fi7oh3 ай бұрын
Hi sir, my car bmw 3 series 318 d n47 engine 75000 miles, when driving slow moving traffic when you accelrate it goes limp mode few seconds then suddenly it accelerate fast.it drives normal. If we brake quite often and then accelerate same problem, i did had smoke smell in the cabin one time. is it oxgen sensor problem
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hello Cathy, I don't think it is the O2 sensor problem. Can you read the fault code? The limp mode I mentioned in the video comes with a check engine light. It is a protection mode of the engine. Once entered limp mode, it cannot be exited in a short time. So I don't think your car is in the limp mode. I am guessing the throttle body problem because the throttle response seems very rough. But I am just guessing. Please get a diagnostic tool to read the fault codes. Then we can nail the problem more accurately!
@cathybrown-fi7oh3 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople Thank you, you are kind person. I don't have the scanner, I will buy one from eBay or Amazon. Do you recommend any scanner. I am taking my wife car to drive and school run.today I was driving just one mile to testing, there was no loss of power, braking and driving. tonight I am taking risk, driving to work place it around 8 miles. I will report to you. I did see video to put wd40 on turbo actuator and I wiggle it. I cleaned air filter around mass sensor.
@cathybrown-fi7oh3 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeopleI like to repeat, three months back while driving, whenever driving slow moving traffic, when suddenly when you accelerate, it goes loss of power engine light comes, automatically after few seconds the car itself moves little bit fast(like sudden spike) without putting pedal on accelerator, I have to put my leg on brake because of spike. Then it drives normal. When we stop at traffic light and accelerate loss of power engine light flashes and goes or when we restart engine light goes off. But it happens only occasionally. There is no loss of power when there is no traffic. Last week it stopped middle of the road on signal, I have restart and took the car. I am just afraid take car with family.
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hi Cathy you are welcome. This reply is about OBD2 scanner. BMWs will show its faults in terms of P codes (fault codes beginning with letter P) which is common among most automobiles. So any scanners can read the fault codes. However, BMW has its own code system (4-6 digit number mixed with English letter, as shown in my video) to give very detailed description about certain symptom. i.e. L6 and V8 engines may show same P code about O2 sensor problem, but you have to decode BMW fault code to see which bank of the exhaust is having the problem. I used an OBD2 scanner once but it did not give me enough information, especially for those BMW-specific modules. No corresponding P codes were read out. I use INPA or ISTA, the PC diagnostic software to translate BMW fault codes. But if you feel too inconvenient messing with diagnostic tools, you can go to nearest shop and ask them to read out the fault codes for you. Please take photos of every code you get. I can look it up for you in ISTA. Or if you can get the BMW codes, we can look it up together on bmwfault.codes/
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hi Cathy I got your descriptions. I searched roughly and found that flashing check engine corresponds to misfire. And the failure of high pressure fuel pump (HPFP), which is common problem for N54, can cause the misfire (cylinder not getting enough fuel.) But this is just a rough guess. The check engine light will leave a lot of fault codes for us to troubleshoot. They will tell you which cylinder out of the six is having trouble, or some other malfunctions the car detected. So I suggest doing a diagnosis with OBD2 scanner as the first step!
@angelinakuczynska97583 ай бұрын
My doesn't work after connecting?
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hi Angelina, first try playing the first track of the CD. Also try pressing Menu button to switch between iDrive and Mr12volt. And do you originally have a CD changer? If not, you may have to code a CD changer to the car, so the MOST bus can recognize the Mr12volt interface. But I did not do this. The interface works directly. Let me know what you find!
@Chris-ru6ir3 ай бұрын
Hi Angelina. Did you work it out what the problem was? I have the same issue right now. Chris
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hi Angelina, Chris @Chris-ru6ir has just solved a similar problem. I quote: "If you switch the DIP switches 4&5 about the correct display size (my display was a big one so 4&5 had to be ON) you have to switch them both(!) together or less than 2 seconds in between." Please see if this helps!
@jamescabotaje65603 ай бұрын
If you have the EVO style, turn the toggle switch down 1 to 4. Mines a 2018 i3. If you only have it down from 1-3 then the screen wont turn on for the EVO style.
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hi James, thank you very much for the tip!
@keley96833 ай бұрын
My car won't start and when I press the start/stop button nothing happens although I can see the needles moving a bit up and down (2mm max). I checked the codes and It says: deactivation of terminal 30B:top startability limit reached [error code: 8040B9. I also get another code which says: START/STOP button hull sensor: incorrect operation (oblique pressure) error code: 8040A9
@keley96833 ай бұрын
2013 BMW 320D F30
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hi Keley, an issue similar to yours had been discussed in a previous comment with David (please browse above.) The fault code 8040B9 indicates the car battery is low so the power management system disabled the starter to prevent over-draining the battery. Your battery may be low due to some reasons, or the IBS intelligent battery sensor may be faulty that it couldn't measure the battery health correctly. The former case is very common. If you take out the car battery and fully charge it, remember to register the IBS again(with diagnostic tools), telling the car you have a new/healthy battery. Otherwise the power management system still thinks the battery is low and disables starter. Another code 8040A9 just reminds the user to press the button carefully :D
@incartechie3 ай бұрын
Great install - we also do the same over here in the UK!
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Thank you for the comment! In Car Techie 🤗
@DaveGsxr3 ай бұрын
Just want to say thank you for the informative video and the replies you have done. i have just read through them and got alot more info about the mr12volt unit. I am soon to purchase one. I have an android headunit fitted that is unreliable currently
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hi Dave thank you too for the feedback! Android headunits are very popular here in Taiwan but my friends have been complaining a lot about their quality and performance. I’m satisfied with Mr12volt despite that I haven’t solved the sound quality issue I mentioned in the video. I hope this is not going to bother you and you will enjoy the convenience!
@jasimal3 ай бұрын
Do you know if this external module affects the car diagnostics and programming with ISTA/P? Is the car kept fully OEM or will you get any error from OBD?
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hello José, this module emulates an original CD changer on the MOST bus so no electrical circuit is modified. So far I don’t get any fault codes with ISTA. The installation is reversible and all the original iDrive components and functions are kept. You can still use them anytime!
@jasimal3 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople that sounds pretty good! Thank you very much for taking your time to answer. I will consider this upgrade in the next future. In a daily use, do you really take advantage of CarPlay to make it worth the money it costs, or could we say that CCC+MULF+DAB+IPOD, despite of being old, is enough?
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hi José, I drive about 40 minutes on highway to work. I use a lot of Siri to read and send messages (iMessage or Line). Sometimes I make phone calls. I often listen to music or podcasts and I like to ask Siri skip few minutes to skip ads. Voice assistant is very useful to me. However, using iPod and the 2010’s technology is also an enjoyable nostalgia! It depends on the media source you want to listen to. I tried to listen to CDs but soon I found that I prefer podcasts and music streaming from Spotify 🤗
@crispcarguru3033 ай бұрын
do you know the dct heated wheel part number?
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hello CrispCarGuru, I searched the part for 335i with steptronic (should be the DCT you are mentioning about) and heater, it is 32306795573, Airbag sport st. whl. lthr Steptronic. I know some 335i can swap M3 DCT steering wheel directly, while some need to modify the shift paddle circuit for their transmission. I have no information about this part so you are welcome to share your success here! Please let everybody know!
Big Capybara 你好，根據您的描述，我猜您的配置如下：安卓機輸出AUX音源給iDrive主機、音響擴大機走MOST迴路。如果我誤解了，請再指正 🤗 我也稍微搜尋一下，沒有看到安卓機+螢幕+MOST光纖輸出的產品，真的蠻可惜的。 不過，最接近您的需求的應該是AUX轉MOST光纖輸出的轉換器，這樣的產品就蠻多的，例如這個www.xcarlink.co.uk/most-fiber-optic-aux-in-interface-interface-for-bmw-audi-mmi-mercedes-porsche.html 但應該需要加工一下，把您目前安卓機的音源輸出找出來（但我並沒有使用過這類裝置的經驗）。 最後，因為我們都要求音質，所以音源的類比/數位轉換次數是越少越好。如果加裝上面說的轉換器，其實是把您目前安卓機的音源又再轉換一次，難免會有失真。
@at82773 ай бұрын
Your method of using the racket extension to push the could in the back was very helpful!
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hi A T thank you for the comment 😂 i’m happy that i found a pain reliever for many of us 🥲
@dimitrijejankovic57213 ай бұрын
i had a problem with bank 2 after kat, after replacement error was gone by now i have 002CA2 CDKHSVSA - heating lambda probe before kat (shear stress) and 002CA3 CDKHSVSA2 - heating lambda probe before kat (shear stress) bank 2, any idea what is a problem now?
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hello Dimitrije, from the error codes it looks like another sensors have failed 🤔 they are the ones before the kat. The o2 sensor has to be heated to their working temperature and the code indicates the heating coil has failed. Usually the coil cannot be repaired so replacement is necessary. But before spending a lot of money for new sensors, please check if the connectors are loose, or the power supply for heating is out. Let me know what you found!
@dimitrijejankovic57212 ай бұрын
Hi @funcarsgoodpeople, after replacement of o2 sensor before kat and drive of 120km it was all okey. But after next start after some time i got another error 002C45 - DME: Oxygen sensor before catalytic converter. I just sow that you did adaptation rest, i didn't do that, because i'm using Carly. Maybe error is because of that or something else, any ideas? Thanks for help
@funcarsgoodpeople2 ай бұрын
Hello Dimitrije, Please try to reset the adaptation. Actually I forgot to do it after O2 sensor replacement. The DME(ECU) still memorized the erroneous air-to-fuel mixture value so I got same rough idle and misfire upon the very next start. After adaptation reset, the replacement was successful, as shown in the video. I had Carly before and I don’t like it because it kept asking me to pay for its limited functionality. I don’t think it’s useful for your professional DIY. Maybe you can visit local repair shop and ask them to do the reset with their diagnostic tool. I guess this is the quickest way to do the adaptation reset. Best wishes!
@funcarsgoodpeople2 ай бұрын
002C45 relates to the o2 sensor you replaced. Please check harness connection too!
@dimitrijejankovic57212 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople i just both OBD cable for INPA, do you have some how to guide who to reset the adaptation?
@d765lt43 ай бұрын
Excellent video, thank you.
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Thank you for your comment, D765LT4! I'm happy you like it 🤩
@Chris-ru6ir4 ай бұрын
Hi one question. Does this box also work if I do not have a CD Changer? Does anyone know? I have a 2007 LCI CCC (Big screen) head unit with AUX in the back but no CD Changer.
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi Chris thank you for the question. Actually I removed and coded out my CD changer before this installation. I just connected everything and it works like a charm. The official instruction says a CD changer is required but this doesn’t look like the case to me. It is not difficult to code a CD changer to your iDrive to work with the interface. Please refer to my other video about coding out the CD changer. Just do it in reverse and the iDrive thinks you have a CD changer. kzread.info/dash/bejne/hJx_sc2Sfr2cZbA.htmlsi=FkWUSC2aiIirygD0
@Chris-ru6ir3 ай бұрын
Hi Carl. I‘ve installed it now (even coded the CDC to be shure) but no Carplay Interface is displayed. If I connect my iPhone to the USB cable it immediately asked if I want to start Carplay. Pressed Yes - but nothing. What did I do wrong?
@Chris-ru6ir3 ай бұрын
Strangely it is working now (sort of). If I select the menu button it is displaying shortly the mr12volt menu, and then the display turns black. If I change to thesetting on the box to small screen, it shows and works everything normal - bit fisplayed for small screen. If I switch back on setting to big screen the on/off behaviour again.
@Chris-ru6ir3 ай бұрын
I noticed that it actualy is displaying something on the big screen setting , but only hardly so. You can barly see the menu buttons. What can this mean?
@funcarsgoodpeople3 ай бұрын
Hello Chris, thank you for the feedback. I am happy that you did the coding successfully, but I'm also feeling how frustrated you are. It appears to me that you are encountering a problem associated with display signal, where you have checked the rest of the functions normal (with small screen.) So now, are you able to show the original iDrive screen (by pressing the iDrive Menu button?) I would try to confirm the malfunction of the interface. And if so, reporting to Mr12volt and asking for a new unit will be the best solution :(
@jovaneghtesadi14944 ай бұрын
Thank you for teaching us how to care for the magnificent M3! Congratulations on being a father soon!
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi Jovan thank you very much too! I don’t have much experience with the M3. You can do better! My daughter is born and has been in good conditions. Now I am learning new things about the baby 😅
@idrisu14 ай бұрын
I have the same code on my e92 m3, 2b37 and 2b44. Replaced 02 sensors and reset adaptations no lick. Tried swapping plugs and coils as well without any change. Any advice?
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi idrisu, so your problem is cylinder 3. Plug and coil seem not to be the problem. You can try swapping the fuel injectors which is not difficult (but expect minor fuel spillage). If not the injector, I would do a compression test to see what’s wrong with cylinder 3 ☹️
@l.schmitt1354 ай бұрын
Really good video, thank for this excellent description for the coding 👍🏻
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi Schmitt you are welcome! I’m happy you like it 🤗 Thank you for the comment too.
@mrralphk214 ай бұрын
22 mm hex bit is WRONG, its a 14 mm
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hello Ralph thank you very much for the notice! I will make correction in the description!
@seanpaul30504 ай бұрын
Is it possible to connect a TV Tuner (video and audio) with this 12Volt device ?
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hello Sean, the external input lines are all shown in 34:12 so I don't think it's possible to connect a TV Tuner. I installed another AC&AA decoder in this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZGx8r5KGmdC0Z5M.htmlsi=OsMDrfKVLgMBKphF and this one has HDMI input so I believe using TV tuner or DVD player is possible. However, this interface does not tun on MOST loop. It's sound signal is sent via original AUX of iDrive.
@paolouribe824 ай бұрын
wow great 👏👏👏👏👏👏
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi Paolo thank you for the comment! I hope it helps!
@mylestaylor63894 ай бұрын
What is the rectanglar sensor at the top of the windscreen to the top right of the rear view mirror mount? I have one in my E91 and I have no idea what it is.
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi Myles, I have the same question. I looked up in realoem.com and ISTA but cannot find description about this thing. I guess it is the ETC (electronic toll collection) antenna for Japanese market. Is your car imported from Japan? If not, I have to change my answer...
@mylestaylor63894 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople yes my car is a Jap import. I've wanted to remove it but I've been worried that it is something else that is important. I'll do some further inspecting and see what I can find. Thanks for your help.
@flybobbie14494 ай бұрын
Pair of gloves is cheaper.
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hello fly bobbie yes you are right 😂 Now I feel like a heated shifter for the manual transmission, which is never available on all cars. A glove will be an easier solution!
@ibernous4 ай бұрын
is there a way to make the original lvds cable (blue end) longer? mine is really short and i can't plug it in the original ccc idrive... I can't pull it any longer
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi inernous, I guess we can source a LVDS cable from other models that also use same type of screen. If you like electrical DIY work, the LVDS connector is also available from the net(i’ve seen it on Aliexpress). We can make any length we want. As you can guess, I hate splicing the original cable and extending it at the middle. But this could be our last choice.
@Chris-ru6ir4 ай бұрын
What car model do you drive?
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi@@Chris-ru6ir I'm driving pre-LCI E90, as shown in the video. I think this particular AC+AA interface will work for all CCC iDrive models.
@qthob12184 ай бұрын
My iphone 14pro cant connecting to mirroring 🤨
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi Qth, the interface works like Appletv during mirroring. Please try disconnecting the Carplay and all other WiFi, Bluetooth connection with the interface, and then join the hotspot hosted by the interface to look for the mirroring device. Let us know if you succeeded!
@qthob12184 ай бұрын
I've tried it all. does not connect. I tried different iPhones. some connect, some don't.@@funcarsgoodpeople
@ivanivanusic4 ай бұрын
When you did ISTA procedure for removing air, did you close brake fluid reservoar cap or left it open?
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hello Ivan, the official instruction uses a pressure bleeder to remove old fluid, so the reservoir cap is closed. You can leave it open like I did in this video and it won’t do any harm! Thank you for the question!
@ivanivanusic4 ай бұрын
So you left it open when doing whole ISTA DSC bleeding procedure? I’m asking because I’m afraid that fluid will get out to engine bay from bottle(I don’t have pressure bleeder).Thank you for answering fast
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi@@ivanivanusic Yes I left the cap open during the process. I think you can close it as well. I did not see any bubble coming into the reservoir, neither any change in the fluid level, so don't worry!
@vdxst0v5574 ай бұрын
Hello, how do I know if I have the 8.8" Type A or B CCC-Unit? Tyvm for this video! helped me a lot!
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi vDxst, I cannot find this information on the web either. I just wrote to Mr12volt, let’s see what they say! Talk to you later🤗
@vdxst0v5574 ай бұрын
Thank you very much!@@funcarsgoodpeople
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi vDxst, I wrote to Mr12volt: Hello I am installing the P-2000 MOST CCC interface. I want to know how to tell my iDrive screen is Type A or Type B. Thank you! And they replied; Stay there if it works perfect for you, its varies from one another different screen resolution. Thx So practically you can try both options and see which one works best for you 😂 I just go with the default setting
@vdxst0v5574 ай бұрын
Thank you very very much!@@funcarsgoodpeople
@user-kw6id6up8e4 ай бұрын
Great video and very informative. Thanks very much, I'll be following it soon once my interface arrives. 🙂
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi Brian thank you for the comment. Please come back and share with us about how you like it! Happy DIY!
@user-fe6mg7ns4i4 ай бұрын
No need for [English Sub]. You speak English perfectly. Better than most Americans :) Taiwan looks like a beautiful country. If I didn't know any better, I would have thought you were in California because it looks similar.
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Thank you David! I tried so many times lol and there were a lot of NG takes. And yes Taiwan is beautiful. I have been wishing to include those beautiful views in my videos... maybe I should do some topics about driving in TW...
@user-fe6mg7ns4i4 ай бұрын
Congratulations on becoming a father! You will be a great dad!
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Thank you David, I am expecting the new journey a lot!
@user-fe6mg7ns4i4 ай бұрын
This guy is very smart and helped me A LOT with his explanation! Thank you so much!
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
My pleasure to help! You are welcome!
@user-fe6mg7ns4i4 ай бұрын
Can I pay you to help me figure this out? I have code: 93076A and 93076B, Deactivation of terminal 15 and 30b. I just emailed you. Thanks, David
@user-fe6mg7ns4i4 ай бұрын
Oh, I have 2011 Bmw x3
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
Hi David, I've got your mail. Don't worry about paying because I'm not running a shop. DIY should be free! Will get back to you soon!
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
The codes 93076A and 93076B means the car detects a very low battery so it cuts power supply on terminal 15N and terminal 30B. Terminal 15N is for the engine electronics and 30B is for some other electrical consumers on the car. The car is doing this to protect the battery. I read some of the function descriptions FUB about #IBS #intelligentbatterysensor and I understand that your IBS is likely thinking the battery is very low (below the #startabilitylimit ) so it tells the CAS to disable terminal 15N that is supplying power for starting the car. I have no experience about this but my suggestion would be "registering the fully charged battery" to tell the IBS you have a new, healthy battery. After this, the IBS will allow the car to use terminal 15. So this should be the reason why engine start is not possible after the battery was completely drained.
@user-fe6mg7ns4i4 ай бұрын
@@funcarsgoodpeople Wow, you are wonderful person. Thank you!!
@funcarsgoodpeople4 ай бұрын
My pleasure! Please come back and let us know your success!
Пікірлер
Great video, I have a CIC 2011 unit, I have an E93 (convertible), the OEM mic is in the steering wheel, I am not sure how to access it, have you done so for a convertible? Thanks.
So my CCC unit works fine but does not send signal to the fiber optic network, so I don’t have any sound, chime, unlock/lock sounds. But the screen and idrive still works. Will this fix it?
Hello 500099, adding the AC+AA Interface directly to the network will not help. I believe there will be still no sound because not having any sound means the fiber optic network (MOST loop) is broken. One or more module on the network is malfunctional so you need to troubleshoot first. (Please refer to my video about removing the CD changer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hJx_sc2Sfr2cZbA.html ) I recommend using a OBD2 scanner to see the fault codes about MOST loop. It will be quicker and easier. If you are not able to read codes, please make sure your amplifier is also on the MOST loop to isolate the problems. You can do a rough test by bypassing a single module on the MOST loop (with a fiber optic bypass loop) at a time to see which one is broken. When there is sound coming out of the speaker, the MOST loop is recovered so you know the faulty part.
Hi I hope you can please help me out. I’m getting these error codes on my 2012 e70 X5; 9CBD, 9CBC, 9CAB, 9CDB, 9CDA, 9CAA, 9CB5. I changed my FRM and had it programmed to the vehicle VIN. Which helped restore a lot of things but now I have a lot of lighting malfunctions that I don’t know how to fix. I didn’t see any short circuits with protool, I also checked the fuses for the lighting and those looked good too. I made sure the battery was properly registered as well so idk what’s next?! Please help!!!
Hello Ardit, I looked these codes up and they can be related to the FRM, LM(light module, but E70 may not have this) or IHKA(air con module.) I am just curious that are these codes solely related the FRM or are they coming from other systems? e.g. 9CBD FRM (frm_70): short circuit at rear door contacts 9CBD FRM (frm_87): Communication with step motor controller on the left disrupted 9CBD IHKA: Independent heating, switchover valve 9CBD LM: Battery exhaustive-discharge protection: deactivation, side light Could you please let me know your ECU variant (frm_70 or frm_87?) to help me decide which code to study?
@@funcarsgoodpeople Hi there! Thank you for getting back to my comment! I have FRM_70 and I wanted to clarify all the codes some other ones that might be connected to the FRM. I know I listed the 9CB5, 9CDB, 9CDA, 9CAA, 9CBD, 9CBC & 9CAB. Just wanted to add my comfort access doesn't work on the driver side front and rear door handles on the left but the right side of the vehicle works as well as the push start option working too. The power windows don't go up for both the front driver and passenger but the rear do as well as the control of the mirror and closing of them. I also got these code from the DME/DDE.... 3847: LIN/BSD, message; alternator: missing & 387F: Power management: Standby current violation. For the DSC (DXC_70) it got code 6EC9 saying: Interface FRM (status, door sensors): signal invalid. For the EGS the code 5125: Signal (door contact, 0x2FC) invalid, transmitter CAS. There's also two codes for the KLIMA2 (FKA_70) A1F1: Footwell-temperature sensor, right & A1ED: Seat heating, rear right (but I'm pretty sure I don't have rear seating).Also the JBBF (JBBF70) has codes A72E & A6D2 (both are in regards to the water valves for the driver and passenger sides, respectively) Yet I don't believe these codes have anything to do with the battery and FRM_70 issues, but I could be wrong. My plan of action are to change the belt tensioner because I've seen that moving a bit too much, along with the belt. That way that can solve the alternator message, because I'm pretty sure the alternator is in working order. On top of that I was thinking maybe the negative battery cable with the IBS sensor needs to be swapped out cause maybe that's giving those weird issues with the different terminals & battery discharge. I already changed the relay for terminal 15 but that didn't seem to do anything. Hopefully I've provided you enough information to help me get her running properly.
You fix it by never buying one 😂
Hi Chad yes that’s a precautionary measure 😂 I didn’t know that a lot of people have this issue until I published this video. I’m pretty surprised.
Need some help! Installed my Mr12Volt for my Mercedes SL550 (2016) and followed the instructions carefully and while I now have Car Play which is great, the AC is not turning on at all (maybe when I put back the panel with the connectors on the back one got loose, (will find out in a little bit), but the main problems too are error messages.. It now has a phone icon and SOS Inoperative on the dash come up and the other error message is Auto Lamp Function Inoperative .. So frustrating to decide to use this Interface versus a few others and have these problems.. And there is no room behind or under the radio for anything so I had to put the wires through the side and to the glove box…. Waiting for help from customer service but they are 12 hours ahead and when they messaged me at 1:30am , all they said was if I had CarPlay working (which I do) then its wired correctly and focus on the AC connection.. It also sounds like the engine or fan in the engine compartment is revved up when I start the car which it never did before either.. man I am concerned this is messing up all the electronics. Was told for my version it should work with no problems and the DIP switches should all be off, which they are.. Any thoughts??
Hi Barry, I got your message and woke up on 3:30AM to see what I can help... JUST KIDDING! (The baby is sleeping nice so I have to use this free time for my hobby 😅 1. Air Con panel and cooler fan: I guess the cooler fan is in protection mode that it is assuming a hot climate because temperature information from the AC panel is lost. I believe that things don't break so easily but troubleshooting can be really frustrating like you said. I would isolate the possible causes as the first step. Please try to fix the connection of the AC panel. If not successful, restore all the connections to see if the car can be like before the installation. 2. Error messages: I read the official product page and think no particular coding (modifying the software configuration of onboard control modules) is necessary. BUT there may be some conflict between the modules after installation of new ones. So that's why I would disconnect the interface to see what's the cause. Before messing with the harnesses again, please try clearing all the error codes. Usually when we work on the car with the battery still connected, the car knows what modules/harnesses have been disconnected and logs that error. Sometimes the error codes stored in one module blocks the other modules from working normally, although the modules/harnesses have been correctly restored. So I recommend using a OBDII scanner to clear all the error codes (there will be hidden error codes!), reboot the car and see what still exists. 3. Take a break! You are very close to the finish line! And you are not alone! My engine is still taken apart but I hardly find time to continue the project 😭😭😭
@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you. I decided for now to remove the Mr12 Volt and put everything back the way it was. Man that was painful. Even after doing that , the AC isn’t working , the fan is definitely in overdrive and the error messages are still there . Maybe I should have tried to clear the codes but going to talk to the dealership to see if they can get the codes cleared and the AC working . Afraid to put the module back though it was nice having CarPlay
@@funcarsgoodpeople success at last !! And after removing the Mr12Volt unit and harness and putting everything back to original, the AC still was not working and the error messages were still there . Was going to bring it into a Mercedes mechanic but decided to again open everything back up, put back the Mr12Volt wiring , harness, Fiber Optic cable loop and plug in the module. Then once I saw there was still no AC and the errors were still there I decided to check the fuse for the AC. It’s under the hood and a 7.5 amp fuse. Pulled it out and yep- the fuse was bad. Replaced the fuse and that did the trick- AC working and no more error messages or problems. Thank goodness ! Buttoned everything back up and can’t wait to enjoy having CarPlay ! I chickened out on adding a front camera but I know I have the option in the future. Thanks for the encouragement!!
Wow! Thank you for the great news Barry! I’m so happy to know this! Please come back and let us know how you like CarPlay!
Just installed on my 2010 E90 M3 with CIC and to me the sound is amazing compared to the AUX cable. I was using just the AUX cable for awhile and when i switched to this, the sound quality is really high, way better. I had the same initial reaction when I had the phone just paired on bluetooth, sounded muddy and not very good quality, but once I connected via WiFi, the sound and the interface experience was way better. I think it uses both in case the wifi kicks out, bluetooth takes over, which only happened to me once so far. I haven't tried using the USB yet, but i imagine the sound is the same as on wifi. Another point is when I was just connected through bluetooth, the navigation sounded like it was coming out of an old game boy, once connected to Wifi, it was crystal clear. I guess the point is don't use just bluetooth, use WiFi to connect to the Mr12volt system and the experience will be a whole lot better.
Hi Knight Rider Redux thank you for the feedback! Do you have any setting for the EQ on the iDrive or on the interface?
Still playing around with the sound settings, though not an expert at all in eq settings either tbh.
I see. If you see further improvement with the EQ settings, please kindly let me know how to do it 🙏🙏🙏
Great instructional video. I just ordered the Mr12Volt for my 2016 Mercedes Benz SL550 and there were no clear instructional videos like yours . I have been a little confused about the fiber optic loop and other connections once I get into it so between a few other videos that show how to access the existing wiring and yours I can figure it out correctly.
Hello Barry thank you for the comments! It’s my pleasure! I completely have no experience on Mercedes but I’m very happy to hear that you’re completing your own DIY! You are also very welcomed to share the tips and your findings about installation for the Mercedes 🤗
@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you. I am going to photograph or video as much as I can mostly to make sure I put everything back in its proper place . Besides getting all the connections correct , the wood trim around the unit is my one of my biggest concerns as I have to make sure I don’t damage or crack it as I doubt I could even find a replacement and if so it would be very expensive. I’ll just take my time and figure it out . My car already has a rear camera but I would like to add a front camera in the grill but not sure what would be a good camera and how to secure and wire it without removing too much . Have you installed the wireless charging pad? Curious about that .. Thanks again .
Hi Barry trust me you will be good at disassembling and assembling the trims in a short time. The car makers have a logical way of putting everything together so it shouldn’t be super difficult 🤗 To install the camera, you can look at how modern cars do to have an idea about where to position it. I see there are a lot of aftermarket light kits for Mercedes so maybe the front emblem can be a good choice? And for the wireless charger, it still pending 😅 I want to install it and film the video at somewhere with good lighting. But now I am doing another project at the basement with the engine opened so the car cannot be driven. Will keep you updated in this reply!
@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you. They are shipping the box today and I should have it to install this weekend. I’ll try and do some research on a front camera as well in the meantime . Thank you for being so quick and kind to answer me. All the best !
Best walkthrough
Thank you Erik! I’m doing my best 🤗 come back often!
@@funcarsgoodpeopleI just got a 08 328i and am looking at options. This is the second video on using that module. I'm more tempted to do this then use an aftermarket radio.
Hi Erik yes I like this module too. But there are viewers reporting success, and as well as problems with the installation(in the comment area!). Please carefully read the product description and requirements. Best luck for your DIY! You are very welcome to come back anytime!
Hi, i am getting these faults with my fem 804094: KL30F relay front, internal fuse 2 defective 8041F0: headlight driver module(tms) right: coding error D90D2F: headlight driver module (tms) left: missing LIN slave 2015 bmw m4, recently i got theSe aftermarket headlights and was playing with the module cause one side was dimmer. And now the driver side headlight wont turn on... Where is the KL30F located ?
Hi VK, I checked the wiring diagram/fuse map of the FEM(A173 Front Electronic Module) of 2015 BMW F82 and found that the fault code 804094 should be: 804094 Voltage supply, terminal 30F Fuse F11 defective (Same code may have different meaning on different version of control modules) The FEM is located at the bottom of the right A pillar. There are 14 fuse slots on it. Fuse 11 connects to the driver side headlight and Rear Electronic Module (are the rear lights working properly?) So please check if the fuse has blown. By the way, KL30F is a built-in relay inside the FEM. I hope it's not broken otherwise the whole FEM has to be replaced and that's gonna be a sad story. For the other two codes, coding error may due to aftermarket lights. You can turn off the cold/hot monitoring of the headlight by coding the FEM (please be careful with coding works!) and that code should stop coming. Missing LIN slave is becasue of the headlight has no power (Fuse 11 blown.) I could be wrong. You are very welcome to let me know the results. Best luck!
@@funcarsgoodpeople thanks ! I changed the fuse and now only the signal works on the driver side light. I think i might have damaged the light
Just a quick comment on the navigation volume problem you mentioned. I've encountered a similar issue on a different system. I use Waze for navigation. As a work around, you can open Waze on your phone directly (not connected to the car) and lower the volume of the guidance directly in the app. While this won't fix your issue of adjusting volume independently of the audio source while driving, it should allow you to "rescale" the navigation audio relative to music so the prompts aren't so loud. This at least worked for me using Android Auto.
Hi BalanBro thank you very much for the tip! I looked up in GoogleMaps but there weren't such setting available :( I'm happy there's a solution anyway! Cheers!😀
Thanks for the vedio.. I need your support my friend I have e38 bmw 740i 2001.. getting code IKE: voltage supple, terminal 15, fault It is running ok and i am driving it daily.. after warming or driving it will shake little, means not engine stable and a v. black smoke comes after driving but sometimes it stops smook.
Hello Abdul, the IKE means "Integrated Electronic Control Unit" and it is actually the instrument cluster right in front of the driver. There are three power supplies to the IKE; terminal R, terminal 30 and terminal 15. Terminal 30 supplies IKE constantly. When you turn the car on, terminal R tells the IKE to light up. And terminal 15 tells the IKE the key is in ignition position or the engine is running. So if terminal 15 is faulty for IKE, it doesn't affect the driving. And you can drive the car as usual. If you want to fix this code, please check the wiring harness behind the IKE. And I think the engine shaking and smoke are other problems. Do you see other fault codes? You are welcome to send it to me! Carl
@@funcarsgoodpeople highly appreciated.. your comment is so informative and specific.. The shaking and smoke resolved, it was vacuum hose blocked, and oxygen sensors bank 1 and 2 not working.. I replaced all of that and it is working v smooth.. engine light gone.. Now The power supply terminal 15 is pending, i will work on it this weekend and Keep you informed about what i might find over there.. Thank you again my friend
That's good news! I'm happy for you! My bad to forget to mention in last reply; the three fuses for the IKE are: Terminla R - Fuse 43 (5A), Terminal 30 - Fuse 26 (5A) and Terminal 15 - Fuse 18 (5A) You can send me your VIN to [email protected] and I can send you related information about the IKE, e.g. the wiring diagram and connector pin assignment table, to you. I believe you are a professional faultbuster and that code will be cleared soon :) Cheers!
太详细了，谢谢你！
不客氣！很高興能夠幫上忙！
Hi this video is incredibly helpful thank you! I have one question.. I am struggling to route the original LVDS cable back down to the center console (11:15 in video) . Any further advice here?
Hello Ashwin thank you for the commentscomment’s too! I understand how painful it is to working in the dashboard 😂 Since the LVDS cable has an L shape, it may be stuck easily. You can try to remove the mid-range speaker in the top center of the dashboard and reach for the LDVS cable. The other approach is from the top of drivers footwell, beside the steering column. There’s also some space you can reach for the cable. I also recommend wearing gloves and sleeves to protect your hands and arms from the contaminants inside the dashboard. They can be quite irritating to your skin 😨
I can not switch to the Orginal Car System…..
Hi Two-one, How about pressing the iDrive Menu button on the center console? You can also assign the iDrive “mute” shortcut to the multifunction switch on the steering wheel. When pressed, the original iDrive can be switched. Let me know how it works!
@@funcarsgoodpeople the mute button dosent work, and i can not switch to the Idrive sytsem, i select the Idrive B (Ccc) version, but still dosent work
@@funcarsgoodpeople i found the problem, reselution was to high
Thank you for the feedback! Could you share again your iDrive version (screen size) and the DIP switch setting for all the viewers? Appreciated!
Hi pls help witn O2 sensors! My codes 2729 and 274B. They appear all the time. After installing a new O2 sensors, they appear again after 10,000 km. Exhaust system tuning
Hi AlexSib, you are talking about the codes for E9x M3 right? I checked on bmwfault.codes and the codes imply broken harness or short circuit of the O2 sensor before cat on bank 2. Please see below; 2729: DME: Oxygen sensor, coast-mode diagnosis before cat., bank 2. Check plug and wiring harness to pre-cat oxygen sensor LSVK B2 (focus on opens in wires for virtual ground and pumping current). 274B: Oxygen sensor pump current calibration fault before cat. converter, bank 2. Check plug and wiring harness on pre-cat oxygen sensor LSVK B2 (especially trim circuit wire IA). Since you have replaced the O2 sensor, there is possibility that the harness or wiring got broken, as indicated by the fault codes. Please come back and let us know your progress!
@@funcarsgoodpeople yes
@@funcarsgoodpeople I checked the wiring, everything is fine. maybe this is due to the installed ESS firmware
Thank you AlexSib, I'm not sure if the aftermarket firmware sets a different standard for triggering the error codes. This has to be verified by ESS. I am thinking of installing a supercharger to the S65 and that requires a new firmware too. I will respond to this comment if I find anything related to the error codes. See you!
Please do more Videos👌🏻
Hello Dominik thank you for the feedback! Yes I want to do more videos! Today I will take video about valve stem seal replacement DIY. Hope see you soon!
Great informative video. I see that apple CarPlay automatically starts up when you have the Bluetooth pairing set up. Does the audio automatically work as well? I have another aftermarket solution with apple CarPlay that requires you to navigate back to the original CCC screen, select aux for the input and then navigate back to CarPlay (4 steps to navigate to select aux and 4 steps to navigate back). It is a bit annoying to have to do this every time I start the car if I want any sound through apple CarPlay. How does this unit work? I am guessing that going through CD allows it to keep that audio setting / input whereas aux can’t be the “default” audio source when you start the car.
Hi David, Thank you for the questions! The audio starts (becomes ready) automatically. It is because the iDrive plays CD automatically, and the Mr12volt interface emulates a CD in the optical drive, so the audio system automatically plays any sound from the interface. For the first time use, just select the iDrive media source as the CD, and press the iDrive Menu button to switch Mr12volt user interface (the black top menu as shown in the video) on the display. Then the interface will be the default audio source when the car is started. (The interface powers up when you unlock the car so if you use wireless connection, Carplay will be ready before you start the engine!)
@@funcarsgoodpeople thanks for confirming! My follow up question is: does anyone know of good aftermarket screens that can replace the OEM screen and work with the mr 12 volt? Too bad they don’t offer a screen solution.
Hi David, I did searched for the aftermarket screen+interface that can integrate to the MOST bus, but so far I haven't seen one :( I'd like to have someone telling us about it too!
The cold start is to allow the car to reach operating temperature. The secondary fan provides air so the mixture is not perfect so that causes the cold start. Its perfectly normal and should not be deleted. It adds a longer life to the engine because the engine is performing optimally when warmed up properly
Hi Terry, thank you for the input. I agree that there's a reason for BMW to design a engine like this. It seems to me that only some of the S65 engines give the crazy rpm fluctuation and misfire codes. I also believe that a brand new S65 engine will not give misfire codes and it may be due to aging of the engine. Sometimes the cold start stalls my engine so I feel it a bit troublesome. What do you think we can do about it?
Thanks you for this video, do you know when your are realeasing the video for the wireless chargers and the cameras ?
Hi Judicaël thank you for the message! I am always preoccupied by the thoughts of doing the projects. However I just became a new father of a two-month-old baby 🥹 so I find it impossible to do my hobby… I promise i’ll report to you about those projects! Keep in touch!
@@funcarsgoodpeople Thanks you for your quick response, may Jesus bless your baby and family and don't worry take care of them first 🙏!! I Loved your professionalism details and the vibe that's why I asked ! I'm happily waiting for others videos !!🦾 Greetings from France !
Thank you Judicaël from France! Please don’t hesitate to send me messages. Although I don’t have time for editing right now, I’m very happy to look up any information for your questions. Stay in touch!
Hi sir, my car bmw 3 series 318 d n47 engine 75000 miles, when driving slow moving traffic when you accelrate it goes limp mode few seconds then suddenly it accelerate fast.it drives normal. If we brake quite often and then accelerate same problem, i did had smoke smell in the cabin one time. is it oxgen sensor problem
Hello Cathy, I don't think it is the O2 sensor problem. Can you read the fault code? The limp mode I mentioned in the video comes with a check engine light. It is a protection mode of the engine. Once entered limp mode, it cannot be exited in a short time. So I don't think your car is in the limp mode. I am guessing the throttle body problem because the throttle response seems very rough. But I am just guessing. Please get a diagnostic tool to read the fault codes. Then we can nail the problem more accurately!
@@funcarsgoodpeople Thank you, you are kind person. I don't have the scanner, I will buy one from eBay or Amazon. Do you recommend any scanner. I am taking my wife car to drive and school run.today I was driving just one mile to testing, there was no loss of power, braking and driving. tonight I am taking risk, driving to work place it around 8 miles. I will report to you. I did see video to put wd40 on turbo actuator and I wiggle it. I cleaned air filter around mass sensor.
@@funcarsgoodpeopleI like to repeat, three months back while driving, whenever driving slow moving traffic, when suddenly when you accelerate, it goes loss of power engine light comes, automatically after few seconds the car itself moves little bit fast(like sudden spike) without putting pedal on accelerator, I have to put my leg on brake because of spike. Then it drives normal. When we stop at traffic light and accelerate loss of power engine light flashes and goes or when we restart engine light goes off. But it happens only occasionally. There is no loss of power when there is no traffic. Last week it stopped middle of the road on signal, I have restart and took the car. I am just afraid take car with family.
Hi Cathy you are welcome. This reply is about OBD2 scanner. BMWs will show its faults in terms of P codes (fault codes beginning with letter P) which is common among most automobiles. So any scanners can read the fault codes. However, BMW has its own code system (4-6 digit number mixed with English letter, as shown in my video) to give very detailed description about certain symptom. i.e. L6 and V8 engines may show same P code about O2 sensor problem, but you have to decode BMW fault code to see which bank of the exhaust is having the problem. I used an OBD2 scanner once but it did not give me enough information, especially for those BMW-specific modules. No corresponding P codes were read out. I use INPA or ISTA, the PC diagnostic software to translate BMW fault codes. But if you feel too inconvenient messing with diagnostic tools, you can go to nearest shop and ask them to read out the fault codes for you. Please take photos of every code you get. I can look it up for you in ISTA. Or if you can get the BMW codes, we can look it up together on bmwfault.codes/
Hi Cathy I got your descriptions. I searched roughly and found that flashing check engine corresponds to misfire. And the failure of high pressure fuel pump (HPFP), which is common problem for N54, can cause the misfire (cylinder not getting enough fuel.) But this is just a rough guess. The check engine light will leave a lot of fault codes for us to troubleshoot. They will tell you which cylinder out of the six is having trouble, or some other malfunctions the car detected. So I suggest doing a diagnosis with OBD2 scanner as the first step!
My doesn't work after connecting?
Hi Angelina, first try playing the first track of the CD. Also try pressing Menu button to switch between iDrive and Mr12volt. And do you originally have a CD changer? If not, you may have to code a CD changer to the car, so the MOST bus can recognize the Mr12volt interface. But I did not do this. The interface works directly. Let me know what you find!
Hi Angelina. Did you work it out what the problem was? I have the same issue right now. Chris
Hi Angelina, Chris @Chris-ru6ir has just solved a similar problem. I quote: "If you switch the DIP switches 4&5 about the correct display size (my display was a big one so 4&5 had to be ON) you have to switch them both(!) together or less than 2 seconds in between." Please see if this helps!
If you have the EVO style, turn the toggle switch down 1 to 4. Mines a 2018 i3. If you only have it down from 1-3 then the screen wont turn on for the EVO style.
Hi James, thank you very much for the tip!
My car won't start and when I press the start/stop button nothing happens although I can see the needles moving a bit up and down (2mm max). I checked the codes and It says: deactivation of terminal 30B:top startability limit reached [error code: 8040B9. I also get another code which says: START/STOP button hull sensor: incorrect operation (oblique pressure) error code: 8040A9
2013 BMW 320D F30
Hi Keley, an issue similar to yours had been discussed in a previous comment with David (please browse above.) The fault code 8040B9 indicates the car battery is low so the power management system disabled the starter to prevent over-draining the battery. Your battery may be low due to some reasons, or the IBS intelligent battery sensor may be faulty that it couldn't measure the battery health correctly. The former case is very common. If you take out the car battery and fully charge it, remember to register the IBS again(with diagnostic tools), telling the car you have a new/healthy battery. Otherwise the power management system still thinks the battery is low and disables starter. Another code 8040A9 just reminds the user to press the button carefully :D
Great install - we also do the same over here in the UK!
Thank you for the comment! In Car Techie 🤗
Just want to say thank you for the informative video and the replies you have done. i have just read through them and got alot more info about the mr12volt unit. I am soon to purchase one. I have an android headunit fitted that is unreliable currently
Hi Dave thank you too for the feedback! Android headunits are very popular here in Taiwan but my friends have been complaining a lot about their quality and performance. I’m satisfied with Mr12volt despite that I haven’t solved the sound quality issue I mentioned in the video. I hope this is not going to bother you and you will enjoy the convenience!
Do you know if this external module affects the car diagnostics and programming with ISTA/P? Is the car kept fully OEM or will you get any error from OBD?
Hello José, this module emulates an original CD changer on the MOST bus so no electrical circuit is modified. So far I don’t get any fault codes with ISTA. The installation is reversible and all the original iDrive components and functions are kept. You can still use them anytime!
@@funcarsgoodpeople that sounds pretty good! Thank you very much for taking your time to answer. I will consider this upgrade in the next future. In a daily use, do you really take advantage of CarPlay to make it worth the money it costs, or could we say that CCC+MULF+DAB+IPOD, despite of being old, is enough?
Hi José, I drive about 40 minutes on highway to work. I use a lot of Siri to read and send messages (iMessage or Line). Sometimes I make phone calls. I often listen to music or podcasts and I like to ask Siri skip few minutes to skip ads. Voice assistant is very useful to me. However, using iPod and the 2010’s technology is also an enjoyable nostalgia! It depends on the media source you want to listen to. I tried to listen to CDs but soon I found that I prefer podcasts and music streaming from Spotify 🤗
do you know the dct heated wheel part number?
Hello CrispCarGuru, I searched the part for 335i with steptronic (should be the DCT you are mentioning about) and heater, it is 32306795573, Airbag sport st. whl. lthr Steptronic. I know some 335i can swap M3 DCT steering wheel directly, while some need to modify the shift paddle circuit for their transmission. I have no information about this part so you are welcome to share your success here! Please let everybody know!
@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you.
您好，有幸見到您的分享，我也有一部 E60 但已經配備了安卓機，想請教是否能夠加裝 mr12volt 的情況下，也保留安卓機，我的訴求是想留著安卓機當螢幕，同時運用 mr12volt 來解決音質問題，以及，哪裡可以執行這樣的施工，再次謝謝您
Big Capybara 你好，根據您的描述，我猜您的配置如下：安卓機輸出AUX音源給iDrive主機、音響擴大機走MOST迴路。如果我誤解了，請再指正 🤗 我也稍微搜尋一下，沒有看到安卓機+螢幕+MOST光纖輸出的產品，真的蠻可惜的。 不過，最接近您的需求的應該是AUX轉MOST光纖輸出的轉換器，這樣的產品就蠻多的，例如這個www.xcarlink.co.uk/most-fiber-optic-aux-in-interface-interface-for-bmw-audi-mmi-mercedes-porsche.html 但應該需要加工一下，把您目前安卓機的音源輸出找出來（但我並沒有使用過這類裝置的經驗）。 最後，因為我們都要求音質，所以音源的類比/數位轉換次數是越少越好。如果加裝上面說的轉換器，其實是把您目前安卓機的音源又再轉換一次，難免會有失真。
Your method of using the racket extension to push the could in the back was very helpful!
Hi A T thank you for the comment 😂 i’m happy that i found a pain reliever for many of us 🥲
i had a problem with bank 2 after kat, after replacement error was gone by now i have 002CA2 CDKHSVSA - heating lambda probe before kat (shear stress) and 002CA3 CDKHSVSA2 - heating lambda probe before kat (shear stress) bank 2, any idea what is a problem now?
Hello Dimitrije, from the error codes it looks like another sensors have failed 🤔 they are the ones before the kat. The o2 sensor has to be heated to their working temperature and the code indicates the heating coil has failed. Usually the coil cannot be repaired so replacement is necessary. But before spending a lot of money for new sensors, please check if the connectors are loose, or the power supply for heating is out. Let me know what you found!
Hi @funcarsgoodpeople, after replacement of o2 sensor before kat and drive of 120km it was all okey. But after next start after some time i got another error 002C45 - DME: Oxygen sensor before catalytic converter. I just sow that you did adaptation rest, i didn't do that, because i'm using Carly. Maybe error is because of that or something else, any ideas? Thanks for help
Hello Dimitrije, Please try to reset the adaptation. Actually I forgot to do it after O2 sensor replacement. The DME(ECU) still memorized the erroneous air-to-fuel mixture value so I got same rough idle and misfire upon the very next start. After adaptation reset, the replacement was successful, as shown in the video. I had Carly before and I don’t like it because it kept asking me to pay for its limited functionality. I don’t think it’s useful for your professional DIY. Maybe you can visit local repair shop and ask them to do the reset with their diagnostic tool. I guess this is the quickest way to do the adaptation reset. Best wishes!
002C45 relates to the o2 sensor you replaced. Please check harness connection too!
@@funcarsgoodpeople i just both OBD cable for INPA, do you have some how to guide who to reset the adaptation?
Excellent video, thank you.
Thank you for your comment, D765LT4! I'm happy you like it 🤩
Hi one question. Does this box also work if I do not have a CD Changer? Does anyone know? I have a 2007 LCI CCC (Big screen) head unit with AUX in the back but no CD Changer.
Hi Chris thank you for the question. Actually I removed and coded out my CD changer before this installation. I just connected everything and it works like a charm. The official instruction says a CD changer is required but this doesn’t look like the case to me. It is not difficult to code a CD changer to your iDrive to work with the interface. Please refer to my other video about coding out the CD changer. Just do it in reverse and the iDrive thinks you have a CD changer. kzread.info/dash/bejne/hJx_sc2Sfr2cZbA.htmlsi=FkWUSC2aiIirygD0
Hi Carl. I‘ve installed it now (even coded the CDC to be shure) but no Carplay Interface is displayed. If I connect my iPhone to the USB cable it immediately asked if I want to start Carplay. Pressed Yes - but nothing. What did I do wrong?
Strangely it is working now (sort of). If I select the menu button it is displaying shortly the mr12volt menu, and then the display turns black. If I change to thesetting on the box to small screen, it shows and works everything normal - bit fisplayed for small screen. If I switch back on setting to big screen the on/off behaviour again.
I noticed that it actualy is displaying something on the big screen setting , but only hardly so. You can barly see the menu buttons. What can this mean?
Hello Chris, thank you for the feedback. I am happy that you did the coding successfully, but I'm also feeling how frustrated you are. It appears to me that you are encountering a problem associated with display signal, where you have checked the rest of the functions normal (with small screen.) So now, are you able to show the original iDrive screen (by pressing the iDrive Menu button?) I would try to confirm the malfunction of the interface. And if so, reporting to Mr12volt and asking for a new unit will be the best solution :(
Thank you for teaching us how to care for the magnificent M3! Congratulations on being a father soon!
Hi Jovan thank you very much too! I don’t have much experience with the M3. You can do better! My daughter is born and has been in good conditions. Now I am learning new things about the baby 😅
I have the same code on my e92 m3, 2b37 and 2b44. Replaced 02 sensors and reset adaptations no lick. Tried swapping plugs and coils as well without any change. Any advice?
Hi idrisu, so your problem is cylinder 3. Plug and coil seem not to be the problem. You can try swapping the fuel injectors which is not difficult (but expect minor fuel spillage). If not the injector, I would do a compression test to see what’s wrong with cylinder 3 ☹️
Really good video, thank for this excellent description for the coding 👍🏻
Hi Schmitt you are welcome! I’m happy you like it 🤗 Thank you for the comment too.
22 mm hex bit is WRONG, its a 14 mm
Hello Ralph thank you very much for the notice! I will make correction in the description!
Is it possible to connect a TV Tuner (video and audio) with this 12Volt device ?
Hello Sean, the external input lines are all shown in 34:12 so I don't think it's possible to connect a TV Tuner. I installed another AC&AA decoder in this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZGx8r5KGmdC0Z5M.htmlsi=OsMDrfKVLgMBKphF and this one has HDMI input so I believe using TV tuner or DVD player is possible. However, this interface does not tun on MOST loop. It's sound signal is sent via original AUX of iDrive.
wow great 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Hi Paolo thank you for the comment! I hope it helps!
What is the rectanglar sensor at the top of the windscreen to the top right of the rear view mirror mount? I have one in my E91 and I have no idea what it is.
Hi Myles, I have the same question. I looked up in realoem.com and ISTA but cannot find description about this thing. I guess it is the ETC (electronic toll collection) antenna for Japanese market. Is your car imported from Japan? If not, I have to change my answer...
@@funcarsgoodpeople yes my car is a Jap import. I've wanted to remove it but I've been worried that it is something else that is important. I'll do some further inspecting and see what I can find. Thanks for your help.
Pair of gloves is cheaper.
Hello fly bobbie yes you are right 😂 Now I feel like a heated shifter for the manual transmission, which is never available on all cars. A glove will be an easier solution!
is there a way to make the original lvds cable (blue end) longer? mine is really short and i can't plug it in the original ccc idrive... I can't pull it any longer
Hi inernous, I guess we can source a LVDS cable from other models that also use same type of screen. If you like electrical DIY work, the LVDS connector is also available from the net(i’ve seen it on Aliexpress). We can make any length we want. As you can guess, I hate splicing the original cable and extending it at the middle. But this could be our last choice.
What car model do you drive?
Hi@@Chris-ru6ir I'm driving pre-LCI E90, as shown in the video. I think this particular AC+AA interface will work for all CCC iDrive models.
My iphone 14pro cant connecting to mirroring 🤨
Hi Qth, the interface works like Appletv during mirroring. Please try disconnecting the Carplay and all other WiFi, Bluetooth connection with the interface, and then join the hotspot hosted by the interface to look for the mirroring device. Let us know if you succeeded!
I've tried it all. does not connect. I tried different iPhones. some connect, some don't.@@funcarsgoodpeople
When you did ISTA procedure for removing air, did you close brake fluid reservoar cap or left it open?
Hello Ivan, the official instruction uses a pressure bleeder to remove old fluid, so the reservoir cap is closed. You can leave it open like I did in this video and it won’t do any harm! Thank you for the question!
So you left it open when doing whole ISTA DSC bleeding procedure? I’m asking because I’m afraid that fluid will get out to engine bay from bottle(I don’t have pressure bleeder).Thank you for answering fast
Hi@@ivanivanusic Yes I left the cap open during the process. I think you can close it as well. I did not see any bubble coming into the reservoir, neither any change in the fluid level, so don't worry!
Hello, how do I know if I have the 8.8" Type A or B CCC-Unit? Tyvm for this video! helped me a lot!
Hi vDxst, I cannot find this information on the web either. I just wrote to Mr12volt, let’s see what they say! Talk to you later🤗
Thank you very much!@@funcarsgoodpeople
Hi vDxst, I wrote to Mr12volt: Hello I am installing the P-2000 MOST CCC interface. I want to know how to tell my iDrive screen is Type A or Type B. Thank you! And they replied; Stay there if it works perfect for you, its varies from one another different screen resolution. Thx So practically you can try both options and see which one works best for you 😂 I just go with the default setting
Thank you very very much!@@funcarsgoodpeople
Great video and very informative. Thanks very much, I'll be following it soon once my interface arrives. 🙂
Hi Brian thank you for the comment. Please come back and share with us about how you like it! Happy DIY!
No need for [English Sub]. You speak English perfectly. Better than most Americans :) Taiwan looks like a beautiful country. If I didn't know any better, I would have thought you were in California because it looks similar.
Thank you David! I tried so many times lol and there were a lot of NG takes. And yes Taiwan is beautiful. I have been wishing to include those beautiful views in my videos... maybe I should do some topics about driving in TW...
Congratulations on becoming a father! You will be a great dad!
Thank you David, I am expecting the new journey a lot!
This guy is very smart and helped me A LOT with his explanation! Thank you so much!
My pleasure to help! You are welcome!
Can I pay you to help me figure this out? I have code: 93076A and 93076B, Deactivation of terminal 15 and 30b. I just emailed you. Thanks, David
Oh, I have 2011 Bmw x3
Hi David, I've got your mail. Don't worry about paying because I'm not running a shop. DIY should be free! Will get back to you soon!
The codes 93076A and 93076B means the car detects a very low battery so it cuts power supply on terminal 15N and terminal 30B. Terminal 15N is for the engine electronics and 30B is for some other electrical consumers on the car. The car is doing this to protect the battery. I read some of the function descriptions FUB about #IBS #intelligentbatterysensor and I understand that your IBS is likely thinking the battery is very low (below the #startabilitylimit ) so it tells the CAS to disable terminal 15N that is supplying power for starting the car. I have no experience about this but my suggestion would be "registering the fully charged battery" to tell the IBS you have a new, healthy battery. After this, the IBS will allow the car to use terminal 15. So this should be the reason why engine start is not possible after the battery was completely drained.
@@funcarsgoodpeople Wow, you are wonderful person. Thank you!!
My pleasure! Please come back and let us know your success!