Did You paint the valve cover and intake mani? they look fresh
@Fizzo202 күн бұрын
Nope, just wire wheeled them until shiny
@boliterackuАй бұрын
Sry bad englulish i have a4 b8 with xenons can i just put led bulps or i need to change something ?
@Fizzo20Ай бұрын
I think it depends on the type of headlight you buy. Make sure you look for something “plug-n-play”. In my case it was plug-n-play and I left the original ballasts in the headlights as they were
@larrystautzenberger1753Ай бұрын
Thanks to your video it helped clarify a lot of unanswered questions whether or not this swap would work. Keep up the content!
@Fizzo20Ай бұрын
I'm glad it helped!! LOTS has been happening in the background so I will be back soon with more content/updates!
@user-nh8tc9po2l2 ай бұрын
when did you want replace your cracked windscreen pls no asslicker answer
@Grobik642 ай бұрын
Good afternoon. Please tell me, what kind of wheels are on your Audi???
@Fizzo202 ай бұрын
19" "Savannah" wheels off a MK1 VW Tiguan R-Line
@Grobik642 ай бұрын
Thanks!!!!
@nicholaswatson38962 ай бұрын
Real world test, for real world people. Thank you.
@S4POfficial2 ай бұрын
I’m in the middle of the same swap myself have big vacuum problems though
@Fizzo202 ай бұрын
It happens with these old engines! That's why I went with the 034 crankcase breather setup and new vacuum caps on the intake. No vac/boost leaks since the swap!
@user-nh8tc9po2l3 ай бұрын
Blb replacement on Audi is complet front with headlight and bumper removal 😆😆😆😆
@ghostridergr82593 ай бұрын
Hi... What was the problem??? I have bad idle when is cold .. where i can buy the service manual?
@Fizzo203 ай бұрын
Hydraulic timing belt tensioner failed, timing belt skipped some teeth and bent a couple valves in the head. So I ended up sourcing another freshly rebuilt head and tossed it on. Injector cups were replaced "while I was in there" since they were cracked. Bad idle can be caused by many things. My first recommendation is to check vacuum leaks, spark plugs, and coil packs (assuming it's a 1.8T). Also, if yours is an AMB head (from a B6 A4), they are known to crack and leak coolant into the cylinders causing a misfire that gets worse over time. I had that issue and ended up replacing the whole engine in another video (AWW engine - kzread.info/dash/bejne/dp-FptianqyfqJM.html). After the valves got bent, I put on this AWM head. What you want is the Bentley Service Manual. Depending on where you're located you should be able to find it at local VW shops or online stores such as Amazon. Also ask local car people/shops/techs. Beyond that, keep digging thru Google/KZread and eventually you'll figure it out!
@kohlpee37323 ай бұрын
Based on my recent test, LED is the way to go. Beat my OEM and aftermarket HID projectors - these are new bulbs that I used and are expensive. Most of the testing out there are done with a white background and check the lumens. But these guys who test don't test it in realworld scenarios other than a controlled environtment - white background. My testing just supports your claim that LED is better that HID bulbs specially in a projector housing for low beam. It is the type of light that the LED produces that the HID bulb cannot duplicate. The LED light has a different wavelength or light spectrum that when it is projected, it gives you a better contrast of the area that makes what you see stand out. HID bulbs just could not do it specially with 6000 kelvin and up. Guys, don't wasre your money on HID projectors or HID bulbs.
@402car_kid43 ай бұрын
ive heard good things about these bolts. Im debating on either using these or a stud kit for my 57drs. Have they worked good for you so far?
@Fizzo203 ай бұрын
They have worked flawlessly! 5000+km of daily driving with them and no issues.
@402car_kid43 ай бұрын
Awesome thanks a lot. I’m just hoping the lug holes are big enough to clear the wobble bolt seat since they’re bigger than normal. The holes on the wheels are 15mm plus get wider after the seats so I’m hoping they will. I think it should be about similar to rpf1 holes. Not sure if I want to shave any material off at first. I bought a stud conversion kit as well so worst comes to worst I know the owner of a shop that’s been using those on thousands of cars over 10 years with no issues but I like the use of hubcentric rings (the stud kits convert it to lug centric so you can’t use the rings) so I’d rather try the wobble bolts first. Really hoping the Mach yellow 57drs look good on my nogaro b5s4 lol. Thanks for the reply!
@pattygq4 ай бұрын
9:42 Did they just light up 100% then drop to a lower output within 4-5 seconds?
@Fizzo204 ай бұрын
No that's the camera auto adjusting the exposure. The lights stay at a constant brightness as soon as they turn on👍🏼
@pattygq4 ай бұрын
@@Fizzo20 Ah okay thanks. I assume a year later no issues?
@Fizzo204 ай бұрын
No issues!
@pattygq4 ай бұрын
@@Fizzo20 Awesome dude. Thanks!
@toastersupplyco5 ай бұрын
Could not agree more!! Whip needs to look good in the winter!!
@crs14745 ай бұрын
Is it just the camera or is the LED side hotspot very low?
@Fizzo205 ай бұрын
At which timestamp?
@crs14745 ай бұрын
Pretty much the whole on the road portion. I’m not sure if it’s just the camera though
@Fizzo204 ай бұрын
In terms of height they are equally level now but the I think the left side is a bit brighter still. The camera makes the difference look more pronounced than in real life. I did look again when driving at night, any uneven lighting is almost negligible.
@darrenjohnson19525 ай бұрын
Swapping back made a massive difference.. now they look Equal..
@GCS886 ай бұрын
I'm currently looking to get a TT engine AUQ code to rebuild and replace my BFB in my A4 whats up with the thermostat exactly? they look the same on online photos
@Fizzo206 ай бұрын
It can be hard to tell in photos but upon googling both those engine blocks, it does look like you'd run into the same issue if your car has the electronic thermostat. As another commenter suggested, he ground down the lip in the block to make the thermostat housing sit flush without modifying the plastic housing. You might have to actually test fit the housing in the block to confirm/fully see what I mean. But if you check out the part 2 video, it shows the rest of the process of fitting the thermostat. kzread.info/dash/bejne/dZ5_y6iMdbqeiLA.htmlsi=viW8AtzpobWk-2-5
@Fizzo206 ай бұрын
Or you could try to find a block out of a car with the electronic thermostat to save the hassle of modifying anything. Just make sure to steer clear of AMB heads. I think the blocks are fine though.
@dylangajdosik9646 ай бұрын
LEDs are only decent for housings specifically built/designed for LED chip placement and even then, i'd still give the win to HID as far as down road lighting goes. Color temperature too. If LEDs were 4300k like factory HID, then maybe they'd have a shot. I find LED color temperature too cool for inclement weather.
@dongchim6 ай бұрын
10:12 thanks for the honest assessment. HIDs may be safer as the LEDs illuminate the foreground more, making it more difficult to see further away. No point lighting up the ground in front of you since you can't avoid anything that close.
@Fizzo206 ай бұрын
It's not that bad. I haven't had any issues trying to see in the distance.
@toastersupplyco6 ай бұрын
The video turned out great!! Looking forward to doing a follow up video with our new locations 🤙
@pfdperformance83206 ай бұрын
Such a cool shop. Great job documenting it before it gets torn down
@Fizzo206 ай бұрын
Thanks man!! It was a blast to make this video
@roki19026 ай бұрын
This Audi is absolutely my dream car... I found your profile today and it seems perfect for me. keep it up you have my support!❤
@Fizzo206 ай бұрын
Thanks so much! After 7 years of ownership I still love the Audi!
@roki19026 ай бұрын
@@Fizzo20 really perfect car. the shape, this engine, the interior, the color... everything is perfect, a really beautiful car, I'm really speechless
@SanDiego_VDubLife6 ай бұрын
Sweet. I wonder how much vanagons sell for compared to the states
@Fizzo206 ай бұрын
Not sure but I know they're not cheap! A lot of them are rusty up here too sadly.
@freeostyle6 ай бұрын
Beautiful shop ! Awesome owner, hoping their will be a new shop tour, Im sure it will not disappoint.
@Fizzo206 ай бұрын
New shop tour is definitely on the horizon ;)
@LanzHD7 ай бұрын
Just bought an used set of Rohana RFX13 Gloss Black Wheel (20" × 10". +22 Offset, 5×114 Bolt Pattern, 73.1mm Hub) for my 2018 Audi Q5 … the guy I bought it from told me it was 5x112 but its 5x114 Andy recommendation on what I should do? Im going crazy 😭 maybe car show set up? Not for daily ?
@Fizzo207 ай бұрын
As long as the wobble bolts are long enough to engage seven threads when mounting the Rohana wheel, you should be good. The other thing to consider is whether the collar of the wobble bolt will fit into the bolt hole recess on the wheel. On the RPF1s it was a perfect fit but I think most wheels have enough room to fit a socket in there so usually the wobble bolts will clear. The only way to know for sure is to test fit. I managed to buy only 3 bolts to test fit before buying a full set. I would also strongly recommend aluminum hub centric rings for the Q5 which is 66.56mm ID and the OD of the wheel’s centre bore. If you can get the wheels to seat cleanly on the hub, you should be good to daily it. I’ve been dailying mine since this video with no issues. I’m about to throw winter tires on the RPF1s and have some fun in the snow to really test out the setup so stay tuned for that!
@Triggzism7 ай бұрын
I can say that this was not a fair comparison. #1 rule! Do not be caught up with the marketing hype of lumens as the actual real world test is going to be based on LUX testing(usable light)at a certain point or distance with a light meter. I am pretty sure that if you would have replaced your old oem HID bulbs even your ballasts with newer ones from Phillips or Osram especially if they were in the range of 43 to 4800k,they would have been far more superior than those LED bulbs as your housings were designed for HID not LED. Also you will get better visibility down the road if you actually aimed the light pattern at a distance from 25 feet to a wall on a flat surface measuring from the ground to the center of the headlight versus eyeballing it. But that's just my 2 cents 😊. If you really want to compare the 2 in a shootout, then get a new set of HID bulbs,Ballasts and a light meter and do another video as this was not really a comparison. It was more like a conversion because you had old worn out bulbs.
@Fizzo207 ай бұрын
I completely agree with all points. I’m not caught up in anything, just stating what is. This video wasn’t really planned and I didn’t think it would get so many views or comments. For some reason I just wanted to try the LED bulbs even though I agree HID bulbs + new ballasts would be superior but I figured why not document it and show my experience. Hence why I said “not a scientific comparison.” Maybe I should’ve titled it as a conversion but it’s done now. Perhaps I’ll switch back to HID bulbs down the road and make another video but for now the LED bulbs are working great. Appreciate the comment though, I often learn from them as well.
@TriggzismАй бұрын
@Fizzo20 Looking forward to it brother! Sorry for the late response.
@clapinc7 ай бұрын
What turbo inlet are you running?
@Fizzo207 ай бұрын
It’s a “G-Plus” brand silicone inlet pipe which upon googling appears to be an eBay special. Can’t remember when/where I got it. The fitment isn’t ideal but been running it for a long time now with no issues.
@clapinc7 ай бұрын
@@Fizzo20 Can’t find it, lol.
@Fizzo207 ай бұрын
I would recommend a more legit brand like 034 Motorsport instead of cheap eBay parts. There are a few different versions on the market, make sure you grab the right one for your setup. www.034motorsport.com/turbo-inlet-hose-2-0-silicone-longitudinal-b5-b6-audi-a4-1-8t-k04-f21-w-tt225-maf.html www.034motorsport.com/turbo-inlet-hose-2-5-silicone-longitudinal-1-8t-w-tt225-maf.html
@GrimmPlague7 ай бұрын
So what do you think about wobble bolts for 5x112 wheels to a 5x114.3?
@Fizzo207 ай бұрын
Depending on the vehicle, it’ll likely have M12x1.25 (or similar) studs. In that case you can run wobble nuts instead which achieves the same result. Just watch out if you’re running OEM Audi/VW wheels; they will be ball/radius seats. You’d have to find either radius seat wobble nuts (not sure if they exist) or wheels with conical lug seats to run conical wobble nuts.
@jasongray76838 ай бұрын
I just finished with swapping the block from a transverse AMU (225hp TT motor) into my b6. Rather than shave down the plastic thermostat, I opted to used a die grinder to open up the throat of the blocks thermostat hole so that the B6 thermostat would fit like stock. Use a grinder stone bit and work slowly, be careful not to nick the o-ring sealing surface. I chose to modify the iron block so that the thermostat could quickly be replaced in the future without needing to repeat the modification to install a new thermostat.
@Fizzo208 ай бұрын
In hindsight I agree, that’s the better way! Next time I have it apart I’ll likely die grind the block side down.
@user-lf5qv7dn1f8 ай бұрын
Do you think wobble bolts are better then adapters?
@Fizzo208 ай бұрын
Depends on the application but for 5x114.3 > 5x112 I'd say wobble bolts are the better option provided the 5x114.3 wheel has the width and offset you're looking for. In my case I wouldn't have done this if the wheels weren't 9.5" or wider. Adapters push the wheel out (lowering the final offset) so you would have to account for that in the wheel width/offset. If you are trying to fit a narrow and/or high offset wheel, adapters will offer better fitment. Adapters are also more expensive and add more weight and potential failure points to your setup. Having used both adapters and wobble bolts, I much prefer the wobbles.
@Balto13578 ай бұрын
i just did the same thing on my 08 passat wagon i bought some 5x110 wheels man said they was 5x112 i had to drill the side of the lug hole toward the direction of the tire, since it was only a 2mm difference, been running them for a week, i took some fingernail polish, marking the rim beside the lugnut and a dot on the lugnut closest to the other dot you placed so i can monitor if they are getting loose would like some peoples thoughts on how they look. heres the image. i.gyazo.com/c12bccbc8740c320c0571bafc80047ae.jpg
@Fizzo208 ай бұрын
Not sure I wanna click your link🙈
@Balto13578 ай бұрын
its just a direct link to the picture of my car, gyazo is very well known and trusted , you can google search if gyazo is good or not, i used it for years, google "is gyazo safe" for instance ish up to you though @@Fizzo20
@ThePupil9 ай бұрын
With the before/after you can clearly see that with the LED there is way more light output but also more light bleeding. This happens when the bulb is not matching completely with the type of lens and cut off mechanism. So although you have a projector lens, and a cut off mechanism you still get annoying light bleeding which annoys drivers on the road.
@Fizzo208 ай бұрын
I suppose you could be right but I haven’t had any complaints or oncoming traffic flashing me. At least it’s a far cry to those that put LEDs in a reflector housing!
@toomiiy73409 ай бұрын
SUSSY VIDEO?
@Fizzo209 ай бұрын
Lol why so?
@marcstreiff60679 ай бұрын
I've looked into running BMW wheels on my C5 allroad & decided I did not want to risk the potential mishap of ill fitting wheels. So I've run 19x8.5-19x11 Lamborghini Gallardo Cassiopeia wheels & currently on Mercedes AMG Monobloc 18x8.5-18x9.5 but soon to run 18x9.5 @ all four wheels. Both the Lambo & Mercedes wheels are 5x112 but the Mercedes wheels needed him rings of 66.6 to 57.1 & I needed to buy Mercedes lug bolts since these wheel's hubs were much thicker than Audi wheels @ the hub center of the wheels. But those wheels you've Gott do look good on the A4...
@Fizzo209 ай бұрын
Most BMWs are 5x120 but the newer BMW 5x112 wheels might bolt on. Adapters do work but again, not ideal. I've also tried staying away from staggered setups on these cars as for some reason it bothers me more than wobble bolts lol. I also have a set of AMG wheels but would only run them if I could find matching 9.5" rears to make a square set. My A5 wheels are also 66.6mm bore. They have rings and I haven't had an issue. And yeah those AMG hubs can be huge but on the plus side they allow for bigger brakes!
@marcstreiff60679 ай бұрын
@@Fizzo20 Ive run staggered setup for 3 yers with no problems.. The key with Quattro is remaining in that 3% circumferential difference..
@Fizzo209 ай бұрын
@marcstreiff6067 no I know I just don’t like that the offset is usually too high up front. Then I’d want a spacer to get it flush. Then staggered tires if you want don’t want unequal stretch front to rear. Just too much hassle IMO
@05glisedan9 ай бұрын
I'm about to order the insert from FCPeuro. Which sealant did you use? I've been researching and can't find concrete answer. Thanks for posting. Very helpful.
@Fizzo209 ай бұрын
I used this high temp thread sealant from permatex. No issues so far! www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-temperature-thread-sealant-50-ml/
@05glisedan9 ай бұрын
Had a chat with fcpeuro, based on vin they said no sealant needed. Install dry. That doesn't make sense. I'll check out your link. Thanks again..
@Fizzo209 ай бұрын
@05glisedan No problem, glad the video helped! I suppose it’s possible that dry is the correct way but I figured I’d play it safe. It also really helped the cups thread in smoothly. Good luck!
@subayakambeyanda9 ай бұрын
HID’s fade with time maybe that’s why you feel the LED is better than the HID but if you were to use a new HID I guess the performance would be of more competition to each other
@Fizzo209 ай бұрын
Yep I did mention that in the video, hence a more “real world test”
@kevinhawley96210 ай бұрын
did u plug the maf in backwards? there a arrow on it that should point to the intake side... not the airbox
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
It's not possible to plug it in backwards on this setup as one end of the maf screws into the airbox so it can only go one way. However I am aware of the arrow indicating airflow; my VR6 maf is possible to install backwards but I check the arrow before installing. The rough running at the end was caused by a failed timing belt tensioner and therefore bent intake valves.
@samituomisto10610 ай бұрын
I had new model year 2004 black A4 quattro 25 years edition sedan with the legendary 1.8T engine and AWD. BBS CH 19" wheels and eibach coilovers. It was a really good and cool looking car for the dude that had no money to buy RS4 😅
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
Haha I feel ya. Although with an A4 I don't feel bad about driving it hard every day even in winter. An RS4 would be another story.
@enriquelopez912410 ай бұрын
The car looks 100% better with those parts
@marcstreiff606710 ай бұрын
So, you should be figuring out that you're having multiple issues with various bolts in unrelated parts backing out. (1st) You're mentioning PB blaster.. Great stuff but once you've used it you need to thoroughly clean the area you've sprayed to completely remove the PB blaster fluid. (2) When reinstalling bolts, some are one use stretch bolts like your wheel hub center bolt.. Meaning you need to replace with new bolts.. (3) Use proper torque settings not winging it thinking its tight enough or in cases of aluminum, exceeding bolt torque specs means you've compressed the aluminum & why the bolt will eventually back out. (4) Use anti seize paste for wheel/hub bolts & only torque down to spec... Removing wheel bering hub... Do not use chisel & mallet, if you do not hve a puller assembly than remove the upright & the it to a machine shop to hve the hub bearings pressed out. Keep in mind using brute force & mallets & chisels to forcibly remove parts will deform the surrounding aluminum & thus why your components loosen & back out.. Use the specs & procedures outlined in the VAG pro manuals which are easily accessed online for a small fee.... Concerning shaving the caliper ... NO... NO... NO... The issue being your rotors re the incorrect ht depth & offset.. Brembo features technical drawings of all their rotors so you can closely match & center your rotors to your 18Z calipers.. Anyway good luck with everything but do refer to the VAG manuals & save yourself frustration & towing costs..
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
Thanks for the info! The bolts backing out of the manifold have done so after torquing to spec and after over torquing. I don’t believe these are stretch/TTY bolts but I could be wrong. Before reassembly I cleaned the PB blaster and CV grease in the immediate area off with brake clean. There’s still more CV grease to clean up though. As for the stretch/TTY bolts, definitely not winging it! All have been replaced with new (hub & bearing bolts), and torqued to spec as per the Bentley manual which was a torque spec, and an additional 90º or 180º turn depending on which bolt. I even cross referenced online to get multiple sources of info for these specs. Might be hard to tell in the time lapse but I did follow the torquing procedures as precisely as possible. The old hub bolt backed out because the bearing was toast. For removing the bearing, you’re right. I don’t have the proper tools, so I’m improvising. Yeah I’m not actually gonna shave the caliper but I know it’s possible to (incorrectly) get away with shaving a mm or two if needed. Ideally I’ll find wheels that fit how I want without a spacer. As for the rotor, I just wanted a rough idea of where the caliper sits. Of course I will be using a correctly spec’d rotor for this application when the time comes which I understand will affect wheel fitment/clearances slightly. Also, they’re 17Zs ;) Again thanks for the input, always open to learning!
@brentjulie456610 ай бұрын
"Thatswhatshesaid" 😂😂😂 that part got me
@DeividasGedgaudas10 ай бұрын
I know this is an old video, but the bottom head surface (where it meets with the head gasket) did not seem to be shaved/leveled at all, did it seal correctly after mounting the head? Did you have any over-heating issues or cooling hoses rupturing ?
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
I believe the machine shop (@cutteruprob) checked it for straightness and it was within allowable tolerances. It seems to have sealed correctly. 10,000+km on it now and I haven't had any cooling issues!
@DeividasGedgaudas10 ай бұрын
@@Fizzo20 That's awesome. Thanks for the swift reply
@user-em4cr5de8z10 ай бұрын
A4 b5 1.8t and mk2 gti... You are my lost brother!
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
Hell yeah brother! Best car combo😁
@user-em4cr5de8z10 ай бұрын
Also on 20vt!!
@carlosyoungful10 ай бұрын
I'm going through this swap now and I'm trying to understand this coolant conversion kit ur talking about?
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
The Passat 1.8T cars had the same longitudinal setup but without the complicated cooling system and electric thermostat that the B6 has. I’ve heard that the Passat parts can be used on a B6 to simply things, but I’ve never done it. Wanted to mention it in case anyone wants to go that route instead of the doing the thermostat housing f*ckery
@carlosyoungful10 ай бұрын
@@Fizzo20 does it have to be from Passat or can it be a a4 as wheel b5. I've tried looking into the forums but I can't tell what parts I need
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
@carlosyoungful that’s a good question, I’m honestly not 100% sure. But I’m curious as well. I’ll see if I can find out
@aggregatvier784710 ай бұрын
What bolts (thread and length) did you use to mount the engine to the engine stand?
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
The bolts are currently lost in the garage somewhere lol so when I find them I'll let you know
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
3 bolts were M12x1.5x80mm and threaded directly into the block. One was a an M10x1.0x100mm bolt with a nut and 2 washers on either side, going through one of the non-threaded holes in the block
@maid.190710 ай бұрын
Where did you bought that injector cups? Please
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
I got the plastic ones from the Volkswagen dealership and the billet aluminum ones can be purchased online👍🏼
@maid.190710 ай бұрын
@@Fizzo20 do yu have link please? Im from balkan
@Fizzo2010 ай бұрын
There are two types, small port and large port. Small port is much more common but make sure you get the correct ones. Here's a link to the small port one from Urotuning. www.urotuning.com/products/fuel-injector-cup-seat-kit-billet-aluminum-1-8t-small-port-heads-fi-cup-small-18t_kt?variant=12590689222711
@804MRMAN11 ай бұрын
*Hid projectors and Halogen/Led projectors are NOT THE SAME! They each have different style of lenses and housings.*
@alejandrodibenedetto6611 ай бұрын
I inform you that the tensioner of the chains of the camshafts can fail but that is not going to cause the valves to bend. I have cut the timing belt and the 8 exhaust valves all bent, but the 12 intake valves were perfect. 1.8T AUQ 9.5:1
@Fizzo2011 ай бұрын
Yeah after I posted this video I was thinking it was more likely a hydraulic tensioner failure causing the timing belt to skip.
@evanmorgan120811 ай бұрын
Congrats man getting ready for my first start coming up. What are the specs on your build?
@evanmorgan120811 ай бұрын
and what did you do for break in?
@Fizzo2011 ай бұрын
Thanks man! Nothing special, bone stock internals, K04 @ ~22psi, turbo inlet pipe, stock manifolds and intake, k&n panel filter, Turbosmart DV, test pipe, 2.5” down pipe, 3” exhaust, R8 coil packs, front mount intercooler, 034 breather kit, 034 snub & engine mounts, 034 full control arm kit. Still gotta toss in a set of 386cc injectors, gap plugs, and re-tune. For break in I didn’t do shit other than bag on it at full boost every chance I got😁 (break-in not necessary after this job)
@edgaradolph964711 ай бұрын
What size of rims and tires are you riding on? Also what brand is that rim?
@Fizzo2011 ай бұрын
They are OEM VW wheels manufactured by Borbet off an early Tiguan R-Line, called the “Savannah” wheel. They are 19x9 +33mm. Tires are 235/35R19.
@marcstreiff606711 ай бұрын
Nice job of learning as you go on this rust delete rehab. I would suggest not using Never Dull to clean up painted panels. Never Dull contains chemicals & oils which will imbed themselves into the tiny pores of your paint & wreak havoc later when you touch up paint. Using pliers to bend back sheet metal. You can find @ an HD gutter/sheetmetl bending shears which will bend straight & not leave marks from the plier's teeth... Nice choice on the VW Tiguan Savanah wheels, looking for a set for my B6 S4...
@Fizzo2011 ай бұрын
Thanks for the info! Yeah I felt Nevr-Dull was a bit aggressive but I think I used it to get that pesky yellow chalk off the doors. Will avoid on paint in the future. If I do much more bodywork, will pickup sheetmetal pliers also. Thanks, I love these wheels. Sold an old set an instantly regretted it so scooped these as soon as I saw them! They're not the lightest though.
Пікірлер
Did You paint the valve cover and intake mani? they look fresh
Nope, just wire wheeled them until shiny
Sry bad englulish i have a4 b8 with xenons can i just put led bulps or i need to change something ?
I think it depends on the type of headlight you buy. Make sure you look for something “plug-n-play”. In my case it was plug-n-play and I left the original ballasts in the headlights as they were
Thanks to your video it helped clarify a lot of unanswered questions whether or not this swap would work. Keep up the content!
I'm glad it helped!! LOTS has been happening in the background so I will be back soon with more content/updates!
when did you want replace your cracked windscreen pls no asslicker answer
Good afternoon. Please tell me, what kind of wheels are on your Audi???
19" "Savannah" wheels off a MK1 VW Tiguan R-Line
Thanks!!!!
Real world test, for real world people. Thank you.
I’m in the middle of the same swap myself have big vacuum problems though
It happens with these old engines! That's why I went with the 034 crankcase breather setup and new vacuum caps on the intake. No vac/boost leaks since the swap!
Blb replacement on Audi is complet front with headlight and bumper removal 😆😆😆😆
Hi... What was the problem??? I have bad idle when is cold .. where i can buy the service manual?
Hydraulic timing belt tensioner failed, timing belt skipped some teeth and bent a couple valves in the head. So I ended up sourcing another freshly rebuilt head and tossed it on. Injector cups were replaced "while I was in there" since they were cracked. Bad idle can be caused by many things. My first recommendation is to check vacuum leaks, spark plugs, and coil packs (assuming it's a 1.8T). Also, if yours is an AMB head (from a B6 A4), they are known to crack and leak coolant into the cylinders causing a misfire that gets worse over time. I had that issue and ended up replacing the whole engine in another video (AWW engine - kzread.info/dash/bejne/dp-FptianqyfqJM.html). After the valves got bent, I put on this AWM head. What you want is the Bentley Service Manual. Depending on where you're located you should be able to find it at local VW shops or online stores such as Amazon. Also ask local car people/shops/techs. Beyond that, keep digging thru Google/KZread and eventually you'll figure it out!
Based on my recent test, LED is the way to go. Beat my OEM and aftermarket HID projectors - these are new bulbs that I used and are expensive. Most of the testing out there are done with a white background and check the lumens. But these guys who test don't test it in realworld scenarios other than a controlled environtment - white background. My testing just supports your claim that LED is better that HID bulbs specially in a projector housing for low beam. It is the type of light that the LED produces that the HID bulb cannot duplicate. The LED light has a different wavelength or light spectrum that when it is projected, it gives you a better contrast of the area that makes what you see stand out. HID bulbs just could not do it specially with 6000 kelvin and up. Guys, don't wasre your money on HID projectors or HID bulbs.
ive heard good things about these bolts. Im debating on either using these or a stud kit for my 57drs. Have they worked good for you so far?
They have worked flawlessly! 5000+km of daily driving with them and no issues.
Awesome thanks a lot. I’m just hoping the lug holes are big enough to clear the wobble bolt seat since they’re bigger than normal. The holes on the wheels are 15mm plus get wider after the seats so I’m hoping they will. I think it should be about similar to rpf1 holes. Not sure if I want to shave any material off at first. I bought a stud conversion kit as well so worst comes to worst I know the owner of a shop that’s been using those on thousands of cars over 10 years with no issues but I like the use of hubcentric rings (the stud kits convert it to lug centric so you can’t use the rings) so I’d rather try the wobble bolts first. Really hoping the Mach yellow 57drs look good on my nogaro b5s4 lol. Thanks for the reply!
9:42 Did they just light up 100% then drop to a lower output within 4-5 seconds?
No that's the camera auto adjusting the exposure. The lights stay at a constant brightness as soon as they turn on👍🏼
@@Fizzo20 Ah okay thanks. I assume a year later no issues?
No issues!
@@Fizzo20 Awesome dude. Thanks!
Could not agree more!! Whip needs to look good in the winter!!
Is it just the camera or is the LED side hotspot very low?
At which timestamp?
Pretty much the whole on the road portion. I’m not sure if it’s just the camera though
In terms of height they are equally level now but the I think the left side is a bit brighter still. The camera makes the difference look more pronounced than in real life. I did look again when driving at night, any uneven lighting is almost negligible.
Swapping back made a massive difference.. now they look Equal..
I'm currently looking to get a TT engine AUQ code to rebuild and replace my BFB in my A4 whats up with the thermostat exactly? they look the same on online photos
It can be hard to tell in photos but upon googling both those engine blocks, it does look like you'd run into the same issue if your car has the electronic thermostat. As another commenter suggested, he ground down the lip in the block to make the thermostat housing sit flush without modifying the plastic housing. You might have to actually test fit the housing in the block to confirm/fully see what I mean. But if you check out the part 2 video, it shows the rest of the process of fitting the thermostat. kzread.info/dash/bejne/dZ5_y6iMdbqeiLA.htmlsi=viW8AtzpobWk-2-5
Or you could try to find a block out of a car with the electronic thermostat to save the hassle of modifying anything. Just make sure to steer clear of AMB heads. I think the blocks are fine though.
LEDs are only decent for housings specifically built/designed for LED chip placement and even then, i'd still give the win to HID as far as down road lighting goes. Color temperature too. If LEDs were 4300k like factory HID, then maybe they'd have a shot. I find LED color temperature too cool for inclement weather.
10:12 thanks for the honest assessment. HIDs may be safer as the LEDs illuminate the foreground more, making it more difficult to see further away. No point lighting up the ground in front of you since you can't avoid anything that close.
It's not that bad. I haven't had any issues trying to see in the distance.
The video turned out great!! Looking forward to doing a follow up video with our new locations 🤙
Such a cool shop. Great job documenting it before it gets torn down
Thanks man!! It was a blast to make this video
This Audi is absolutely my dream car... I found your profile today and it seems perfect for me. keep it up you have my support!❤
Thanks so much! After 7 years of ownership I still love the Audi!
@@Fizzo20 really perfect car. the shape, this engine, the interior, the color... everything is perfect, a really beautiful car, I'm really speechless
Sweet. I wonder how much vanagons sell for compared to the states
Not sure but I know they're not cheap! A lot of them are rusty up here too sadly.
Beautiful shop ! Awesome owner, hoping their will be a new shop tour, Im sure it will not disappoint.
New shop tour is definitely on the horizon ;)
Just bought an used set of Rohana RFX13 Gloss Black Wheel (20" × 10". +22 Offset, 5×114 Bolt Pattern, 73.1mm Hub) for my 2018 Audi Q5 … the guy I bought it from told me it was 5x112 but its 5x114 Andy recommendation on what I should do? Im going crazy 😭 maybe car show set up? Not for daily ?
As long as the wobble bolts are long enough to engage seven threads when mounting the Rohana wheel, you should be good. The other thing to consider is whether the collar of the wobble bolt will fit into the bolt hole recess on the wheel. On the RPF1s it was a perfect fit but I think most wheels have enough room to fit a socket in there so usually the wobble bolts will clear. The only way to know for sure is to test fit. I managed to buy only 3 bolts to test fit before buying a full set. I would also strongly recommend aluminum hub centric rings for the Q5 which is 66.56mm ID and the OD of the wheel’s centre bore. If you can get the wheels to seat cleanly on the hub, you should be good to daily it. I’ve been dailying mine since this video with no issues. I’m about to throw winter tires on the RPF1s and have some fun in the snow to really test out the setup so stay tuned for that!
I can say that this was not a fair comparison. #1 rule! Do not be caught up with the marketing hype of lumens as the actual real world test is going to be based on LUX testing(usable light)at a certain point or distance with a light meter. I am pretty sure that if you would have replaced your old oem HID bulbs even your ballasts with newer ones from Phillips or Osram especially if they were in the range of 43 to 4800k,they would have been far more superior than those LED bulbs as your housings were designed for HID not LED. Also you will get better visibility down the road if you actually aimed the light pattern at a distance from 25 feet to a wall on a flat surface measuring from the ground to the center of the headlight versus eyeballing it. But that's just my 2 cents 😊. If you really want to compare the 2 in a shootout, then get a new set of HID bulbs,Ballasts and a light meter and do another video as this was not really a comparison. It was more like a conversion because you had old worn out bulbs.
I completely agree with all points. I’m not caught up in anything, just stating what is. This video wasn’t really planned and I didn’t think it would get so many views or comments. For some reason I just wanted to try the LED bulbs even though I agree HID bulbs + new ballasts would be superior but I figured why not document it and show my experience. Hence why I said “not a scientific comparison.” Maybe I should’ve titled it as a conversion but it’s done now. Perhaps I’ll switch back to HID bulbs down the road and make another video but for now the LED bulbs are working great. Appreciate the comment though, I often learn from them as well.
@Fizzo20 Looking forward to it brother! Sorry for the late response.
What turbo inlet are you running?
It’s a “G-Plus” brand silicone inlet pipe which upon googling appears to be an eBay special. Can’t remember when/where I got it. The fitment isn’t ideal but been running it for a long time now with no issues.
@@Fizzo20 Can’t find it, lol.
I would recommend a more legit brand like 034 Motorsport instead of cheap eBay parts. There are a few different versions on the market, make sure you grab the right one for your setup. www.034motorsport.com/turbo-inlet-hose-2-0-silicone-longitudinal-b5-b6-audi-a4-1-8t-k04-f21-w-tt225-maf.html www.034motorsport.com/turbo-inlet-hose-2-5-silicone-longitudinal-1-8t-w-tt225-maf.html
So what do you think about wobble bolts for 5x112 wheels to a 5x114.3?
Depending on the vehicle, it’ll likely have M12x1.25 (or similar) studs. In that case you can run wobble nuts instead which achieves the same result. Just watch out if you’re running OEM Audi/VW wheels; they will be ball/radius seats. You’d have to find either radius seat wobble nuts (not sure if they exist) or wheels with conical lug seats to run conical wobble nuts.
I just finished with swapping the block from a transverse AMU (225hp TT motor) into my b6. Rather than shave down the plastic thermostat, I opted to used a die grinder to open up the throat of the blocks thermostat hole so that the B6 thermostat would fit like stock. Use a grinder stone bit and work slowly, be careful not to nick the o-ring sealing surface. I chose to modify the iron block so that the thermostat could quickly be replaced in the future without needing to repeat the modification to install a new thermostat.
In hindsight I agree, that’s the better way! Next time I have it apart I’ll likely die grind the block side down.
Do you think wobble bolts are better then adapters?
Depends on the application but for 5x114.3 > 5x112 I'd say wobble bolts are the better option provided the 5x114.3 wheel has the width and offset you're looking for. In my case I wouldn't have done this if the wheels weren't 9.5" or wider. Adapters push the wheel out (lowering the final offset) so you would have to account for that in the wheel width/offset. If you are trying to fit a narrow and/or high offset wheel, adapters will offer better fitment. Adapters are also more expensive and add more weight and potential failure points to your setup. Having used both adapters and wobble bolts, I much prefer the wobbles.
i just did the same thing on my 08 passat wagon i bought some 5x110 wheels man said they was 5x112 i had to drill the side of the lug hole toward the direction of the tire, since it was only a 2mm difference, been running them for a week, i took some fingernail polish, marking the rim beside the lugnut and a dot on the lugnut closest to the other dot you placed so i can monitor if they are getting loose would like some peoples thoughts on how they look. heres the image. i.gyazo.com/c12bccbc8740c320c0571bafc80047ae.jpg
Not sure I wanna click your link🙈
its just a direct link to the picture of my car, gyazo is very well known and trusted , you can google search if gyazo is good or not, i used it for years, google "is gyazo safe" for instance ish up to you though @@Fizzo20
With the before/after you can clearly see that with the LED there is way more light output but also more light bleeding. This happens when the bulb is not matching completely with the type of lens and cut off mechanism. So although you have a projector lens, and a cut off mechanism you still get annoying light bleeding which annoys drivers on the road.
I suppose you could be right but I haven’t had any complaints or oncoming traffic flashing me. At least it’s a far cry to those that put LEDs in a reflector housing!
SUSSY VIDEO?
Lol why so?
I've looked into running BMW wheels on my C5 allroad & decided I did not want to risk the potential mishap of ill fitting wheels. So I've run 19x8.5-19x11 Lamborghini Gallardo Cassiopeia wheels & currently on Mercedes AMG Monobloc 18x8.5-18x9.5 but soon to run 18x9.5 @ all four wheels. Both the Lambo & Mercedes wheels are 5x112 but the Mercedes wheels needed him rings of 66.6 to 57.1 & I needed to buy Mercedes lug bolts since these wheel's hubs were much thicker than Audi wheels @ the hub center of the wheels. But those wheels you've Gott do look good on the A4...
Most BMWs are 5x120 but the newer BMW 5x112 wheels might bolt on. Adapters do work but again, not ideal. I've also tried staying away from staggered setups on these cars as for some reason it bothers me more than wobble bolts lol. I also have a set of AMG wheels but would only run them if I could find matching 9.5" rears to make a square set. My A5 wheels are also 66.6mm bore. They have rings and I haven't had an issue. And yeah those AMG hubs can be huge but on the plus side they allow for bigger brakes!
@@Fizzo20 Ive run staggered setup for 3 yers with no problems.. The key with Quattro is remaining in that 3% circumferential difference..
@marcstreiff6067 no I know I just don’t like that the offset is usually too high up front. Then I’d want a spacer to get it flush. Then staggered tires if you want don’t want unequal stretch front to rear. Just too much hassle IMO
I'm about to order the insert from FCPeuro. Which sealant did you use? I've been researching and can't find concrete answer. Thanks for posting. Very helpful.
I used this high temp thread sealant from permatex. No issues so far! www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-temperature-thread-sealant-50-ml/
Had a chat with fcpeuro, based on vin they said no sealant needed. Install dry. That doesn't make sense. I'll check out your link. Thanks again..
@05glisedan No problem, glad the video helped! I suppose it’s possible that dry is the correct way but I figured I’d play it safe. It also really helped the cups thread in smoothly. Good luck!
HID’s fade with time maybe that’s why you feel the LED is better than the HID but if you were to use a new HID I guess the performance would be of more competition to each other
Yep I did mention that in the video, hence a more “real world test”
did u plug the maf in backwards? there a arrow on it that should point to the intake side... not the airbox
It's not possible to plug it in backwards on this setup as one end of the maf screws into the airbox so it can only go one way. However I am aware of the arrow indicating airflow; my VR6 maf is possible to install backwards but I check the arrow before installing. The rough running at the end was caused by a failed timing belt tensioner and therefore bent intake valves.
I had new model year 2004 black A4 quattro 25 years edition sedan with the legendary 1.8T engine and AWD. BBS CH 19" wheels and eibach coilovers. It was a really good and cool looking car for the dude that had no money to buy RS4 😅
Haha I feel ya. Although with an A4 I don't feel bad about driving it hard every day even in winter. An RS4 would be another story.
The car looks 100% better with those parts
So, you should be figuring out that you're having multiple issues with various bolts in unrelated parts backing out. (1st) You're mentioning PB blaster.. Great stuff but once you've used it you need to thoroughly clean the area you've sprayed to completely remove the PB blaster fluid. (2) When reinstalling bolts, some are one use stretch bolts like your wheel hub center bolt.. Meaning you need to replace with new bolts.. (3) Use proper torque settings not winging it thinking its tight enough or in cases of aluminum, exceeding bolt torque specs means you've compressed the aluminum & why the bolt will eventually back out. (4) Use anti seize paste for wheel/hub bolts & only torque down to spec... Removing wheel bering hub... Do not use chisel & mallet, if you do not hve a puller assembly than remove the upright & the it to a machine shop to hve the hub bearings pressed out. Keep in mind using brute force & mallets & chisels to forcibly remove parts will deform the surrounding aluminum & thus why your components loosen & back out.. Use the specs & procedures outlined in the VAG pro manuals which are easily accessed online for a small fee.... Concerning shaving the caliper ... NO... NO... NO... The issue being your rotors re the incorrect ht depth & offset.. Brembo features technical drawings of all their rotors so you can closely match & center your rotors to your 18Z calipers.. Anyway good luck with everything but do refer to the VAG manuals & save yourself frustration & towing costs..
Thanks for the info! The bolts backing out of the manifold have done so after torquing to spec and after over torquing. I don’t believe these are stretch/TTY bolts but I could be wrong. Before reassembly I cleaned the PB blaster and CV grease in the immediate area off with brake clean. There’s still more CV grease to clean up though. As for the stretch/TTY bolts, definitely not winging it! All have been replaced with new (hub & bearing bolts), and torqued to spec as per the Bentley manual which was a torque spec, and an additional 90º or 180º turn depending on which bolt. I even cross referenced online to get multiple sources of info for these specs. Might be hard to tell in the time lapse but I did follow the torquing procedures as precisely as possible. The old hub bolt backed out because the bearing was toast. For removing the bearing, you’re right. I don’t have the proper tools, so I’m improvising. Yeah I’m not actually gonna shave the caliper but I know it’s possible to (incorrectly) get away with shaving a mm or two if needed. Ideally I’ll find wheels that fit how I want without a spacer. As for the rotor, I just wanted a rough idea of where the caliper sits. Of course I will be using a correctly spec’d rotor for this application when the time comes which I understand will affect wheel fitment/clearances slightly. Also, they’re 17Zs ;) Again thanks for the input, always open to learning!
"Thatswhatshesaid" 😂😂😂 that part got me
I know this is an old video, but the bottom head surface (where it meets with the head gasket) did not seem to be shaved/leveled at all, did it seal correctly after mounting the head? Did you have any over-heating issues or cooling hoses rupturing ?
I believe the machine shop (@cutteruprob) checked it for straightness and it was within allowable tolerances. It seems to have sealed correctly. 10,000+km on it now and I haven't had any cooling issues!
@@Fizzo20 That's awesome. Thanks for the swift reply
A4 b5 1.8t and mk2 gti... You are my lost brother!
Hell yeah brother! Best car combo😁
Also on 20vt!!
I'm going through this swap now and I'm trying to understand this coolant conversion kit ur talking about?
The Passat 1.8T cars had the same longitudinal setup but without the complicated cooling system and electric thermostat that the B6 has. I’ve heard that the Passat parts can be used on a B6 to simply things, but I’ve never done it. Wanted to mention it in case anyone wants to go that route instead of the doing the thermostat housing f*ckery
@@Fizzo20 does it have to be from Passat or can it be a a4 as wheel b5. I've tried looking into the forums but I can't tell what parts I need
@carlosyoungful that’s a good question, I’m honestly not 100% sure. But I’m curious as well. I’ll see if I can find out
What bolts (thread and length) did you use to mount the engine to the engine stand?
The bolts are currently lost in the garage somewhere lol so when I find them I'll let you know
3 bolts were M12x1.5x80mm and threaded directly into the block. One was a an M10x1.0x100mm bolt with a nut and 2 washers on either side, going through one of the non-threaded holes in the block
Where did you bought that injector cups? Please
I got the plastic ones from the Volkswagen dealership and the billet aluminum ones can be purchased online👍🏼
@@Fizzo20 do yu have link please? Im from balkan
There are two types, small port and large port. Small port is much more common but make sure you get the correct ones. Here's a link to the small port one from Urotuning. www.urotuning.com/products/fuel-injector-cup-seat-kit-billet-aluminum-1-8t-small-port-heads-fi-cup-small-18t_kt?variant=12590689222711
*Hid projectors and Halogen/Led projectors are NOT THE SAME! They each have different style of lenses and housings.*
I inform you that the tensioner of the chains of the camshafts can fail but that is not going to cause the valves to bend. I have cut the timing belt and the 8 exhaust valves all bent, but the 12 intake valves were perfect. 1.8T AUQ 9.5:1
Yeah after I posted this video I was thinking it was more likely a hydraulic tensioner failure causing the timing belt to skip.
Congrats man getting ready for my first start coming up. What are the specs on your build?
and what did you do for break in?
Thanks man! Nothing special, bone stock internals, K04 @ ~22psi, turbo inlet pipe, stock manifolds and intake, k&n panel filter, Turbosmart DV, test pipe, 2.5” down pipe, 3” exhaust, R8 coil packs, front mount intercooler, 034 breather kit, 034 snub & engine mounts, 034 full control arm kit. Still gotta toss in a set of 386cc injectors, gap plugs, and re-tune. For break in I didn’t do shit other than bag on it at full boost every chance I got😁 (break-in not necessary after this job)
What size of rims and tires are you riding on? Also what brand is that rim?
They are OEM VW wheels manufactured by Borbet off an early Tiguan R-Line, called the “Savannah” wheel. They are 19x9 +33mm. Tires are 235/35R19.
Nice job of learning as you go on this rust delete rehab. I would suggest not using Never Dull to clean up painted panels. Never Dull contains chemicals & oils which will imbed themselves into the tiny pores of your paint & wreak havoc later when you touch up paint. Using pliers to bend back sheet metal. You can find @ an HD gutter/sheetmetl bending shears which will bend straight & not leave marks from the plier's teeth... Nice choice on the VW Tiguan Savanah wheels, looking for a set for my B6 S4...
Thanks for the info! Yeah I felt Nevr-Dull was a bit aggressive but I think I used it to get that pesky yellow chalk off the doors. Will avoid on paint in the future. If I do much more bodywork, will pickup sheetmetal pliers also. Thanks, I love these wheels. Sold an old set an instantly regretted it so scooped these as soon as I saw them! They're not the lightest though.