About your board we know some as spring tentions that make it difficult to get a perfect flat joint 😊 Thank for your video I just changed the cutter for the silence type like you have on your machine so I have to adjust everything. But I try to have the top out feed parallel to the planer one probably not necessary 😊
@eb9338Ай бұрын
Dream workshop !
@busterdavy97692 ай бұрын
Easy to adjust lateral on the fence! The solid round stock that the fence rides on has two bolts through and you loose the nuts on front and back and adjust the round stock in or out to change the fences lateral adjustment.By pulling the right side of the round stock towards you will bring the fence to the right! A bit of fiddling it’s easy to do.I did it on a ALTENDORF saw which it similar 👍🏾
@richardforge69142 ай бұрын
this is brilliant, just got my first slider and was thinking exactly this! Thanks for sharing!
@Bigg_Driver3 ай бұрын
Can you tell me how much height that adds ie from table base to highest point with the positioner on the table not flipped up out of the way. I have to store my table under my mitre saw table and have limited space. Thanks!!
@fbenkautz26624 ай бұрын
I have the Woodpecker's coping sled. The problem is that the bit height has to be change between routing rails and stiles. This is unacceptable. This should be fine for stiles, you just have to hold the work piece firmly.
@fbenkautz26624 ай бұрын
You camera being too close makes me dizzy. Your installation is halpful.
@horacionochetto84547 ай бұрын
Great video. I am in the process of tuning my K3 as well and I realized I have a hallow in the case iron. I understand this is an older video, but several people here have said they have Hammer K3 machines. When measuring for the cast iron flatness, what sort of tolerance are you guys getting and what tolerance is allowed by Hammer/Felder?
@diyenthu28449 ай бұрын
Very well articulated, ty!
@kennethholmes93159 ай бұрын
The fence is what makes a saw. That being said unless you had the scoring blade installed in that machine there’s no reason to pay the extra cost to own one. And yes I’ve owned one. Got rid of it and picked up a Sawstop.
@hdwoodshop10 ай бұрын
I have the same until and I bought the extension to the jointer bed. Haven’t found a video on setting it up. I think I did it right, but I’d love to see how you would do it. Thx
@MichaelLogutov10 ай бұрын
Thank you very much for this detailed explanation. On other Felder video I saw that infeed planer roller should be 0.9 mm lower than cutting blade. But what about outfeed?
@jonathanfegelein936111 ай бұрын
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice kzread.infoUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
@williamparker664911 ай бұрын
I am getting my new K-3 Winner next week.This video will be a giant help!
@LtBill11 ай бұрын
Parts of your presentation were very helpful. (I own a A3 41 Hammer) However, I need specifics about how to make certain my helical cutter head and the two rollers are calibrated exactly for best function. Felder, so far, has not been any help. I have two project sitting which are for a charity event. Help give me a clearer understanding of how to adjust and set up these three parts relative to the planar bed.If you know where I can get this information I could really use that! Much appreciated!
@DanielNilssonSe11 ай бұрын
Just commenting for the algorithm, I want one but it's too large for me. Enjoyed the review.
@shanenagore266711 ай бұрын
I feel like old school woodworkers who primarily use hand tools prob frown upon dudes ike u w/shops like yours, oit just has a very yuppie festooly feel to it ........which is fair considering u own virtually every tool/accessory in the rockler catalogue lol.....and full disclosure, I was kinda hoping the table turned out shitty thus enabling me to more easily satisfy the (pathetic) hater in me and give u heaps of shit for churning out crappy builds despite having 30k worth of tools in ur shop. But then u ruined my dastardly plan by making a beautiful table!! Well done, kudos to u sir. I'm off to rethink my use of time. 😐
@HelloAnthony Жыл бұрын
Does a video exist where someone does an actual calibration on a machine that needs to be calibrated? Watching someone talk about calibration is nice, but I'd really like to see someone perform a calibration.
@prestonhoffman5695 Жыл бұрын
Not that I know of. Actual calibration takes hours. That’s a lot of editing for the most difficult calibration I have ever encountered.
@chuckgrumble54408 ай бұрын
@@prestonhoffman5695 so it is the most difficult calibration and you still recommend this ? I was thinking of getting one.
@prestonhoffman56958 ай бұрын
Definitely the hardest I have ever done. It’s dialed in and haven’t touched it since. I really like having a jointer/planer combo. If I wasn’t in the market for a combo I would not recommend this machine. Combo machines just make sense to me. I wish the price was a little lower, but I can’t imagine having a jointing capacity less than 12 inches at this point.
@julieta203 Жыл бұрын
That is one clean workshop!
@feraligatrs Жыл бұрын
Great table! How was the base attached to the top?
@prestonhoffman5695 Жыл бұрын
I used threaded inserts. Domino knock down connectors would be better.
@DickvanZanten Жыл бұрын
Hello Preston, Felder does have a fine-adjust ripfence on the K3 winner and winner comfort lines. Theycan be ordered as an option for your K3 basic as well, you have to change over to another guide rail as well though..
@elchasero Жыл бұрын
I don't understand what you did. When it came time to adjust the slider to get it parallel to the blade, you skipped past whatever you did in the video. That was the one thing I needed to see! Thanks for the tips on leveling the slide to the cast iron, but how to get it square? You leave us with lower bolt hand-tight, then you discussed your calibration blade, runout on the blade, etc., but never did get to adjusted those bolts to make slider parallel. (Crazy that it doesn't come square, for 5K, eh?)
@prestonhoffman5695 Жыл бұрын
Sorry about that. Video editing is not something I have much experience with. To get the sliding table parallel to the blade, just follow these steps. 1)keep the bottom nut hand tight on all 6 bolts (as stated in the video). 2) Measure for parallel using a dial indicator across the entire width of the blade (as shown in the video) 3) Make small lateral adjustments to the sliding table by tapping (I like to use a rubber mallet) the sliding table on each end as necessary to get alignment (this was not shown, my apologies). 4) check your work. Repeat step 2 above and 3 above until your sliding table is parallel to the blade. Expect to repeat these steps a dozen times or more to get it dialed in just right. 5) Once everything is aligned, fully tighten the bottom nut on all 6 bolts and check your work.
@elchasero Жыл бұрын
However don’t get me wrong: I love your most helpful videos!
@leejackson3781 Жыл бұрын
what lubricant do you use?
@leejackson3781 Жыл бұрын
Great video. Mine appears to be sticking after I get past the router bit towards the end of the sliding stretch. Any recommendations on that? Or do it not matter since I wont be going past the router bit anyway? Thanks for your advice.
@prestonhoffman5695 Жыл бұрын
I would try lightly greasing the rail and verifying the shaft isn’t under tension in such a way that it would bend. Any bend in the cylindrical shaft could cause the fence to bind when traversing.
@JBalfe74 Жыл бұрын
Would be interested to know how you deal with the sliding table being coplanar with the cast top...or do you have the sliding table proud of the cast as felder recommends? When you hand tighten the bolts to get the sliding table parallel does that affect the height?
@JBalfe74 Жыл бұрын
Great job with this video. How did you figure out what moves what? My manual was a waste of paper...
@prestonhoffman5695 Жыл бұрын
Trial and error. Make sure you check out m.kzread.info/dash/bejne/pK6i2M98qqSYlZs.html This video. There are some small adjustments you can make from the hinges. It doesn’t help me as much, but it may work well for your situation.
@horacionochetto8454 Жыл бұрын
I know this is an older video, but what Forrest blade do you run?
@prestonhoffman5695 Жыл бұрын
I run several, but woodworker 2 is what I will frequently use
@horacionochetto8454 Жыл бұрын
@@prestonhoffman5695 Thanks for the quick reply. Is it the 10 inch 48tooth?
@prestonhoffman5695 Жыл бұрын
@@horacionochetto8454 I don’t recall the tooth, but it’s the 12 inch.
@chrisswartzwelder8494 Жыл бұрын
Super nice.
@Wooddust6 Жыл бұрын
Heard nothing but reasons not to buy this saw. Thanks for the info! I'll be looking at other saws. This is a clear pass.
@goatlabfurniture333 Жыл бұрын
easy to understand, thanks for the explanation.
@jonathancohen8879 Жыл бұрын
I am astonished that people still even consider buying hammer tools. I’ve been a professional furniture maker for more than 45 years and I am now running a school for fine woodworking. We recently purchased the hammer K3 winner, which really should be called the hammer K3 loser. It has got so many flaws in it that I don’t even know where to start. Obviously the single hand wheel that constantly falls off makes no sense whatsoever. The huge gaping throat around the blade constantly sucks pieces of wood down, thin pieces of wood down into the dust system and clogs it. I have to turn off the saw, open it up and clean it out several times a day. But despite all the flaws with that tool and our flimsy joint hammer jointer, the worst part is really just dealing with hammer. When there’s a problem they say well other machines have that problem so how is that our fault? Have you ever heard a more childish response? And so far seven of our students have bought their machines and not one of them, literally, not one of them has showed up and worked. No problem, for $1000 hammer will send somebody out to fix your brand new machine that you’ve never been able to use. I don’t think I’ve ever been so disappointed in woodworking machines and the company that makes them
@playboxxtv6287 Жыл бұрын
dat mic xD
@jefffink8405 Жыл бұрын
Awesome job.
@freshmas Жыл бұрын
I get the impression this guy is a machinist.
@paulmurphy7028 Жыл бұрын
Hi ,,Getting ready to install one of these ..Are you still maintaining the channel as I have a question if you have a minute
@christophedelepaut6398 Жыл бұрын
👍👍🇧🇪
@RobSandstromDesigns2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the great presentation of where the adjustments can be made. Unfortunately for me, I have the same machine and have not had the same quality results. It's too bad everything worked so well in your demonstration and you didn't have to actually make any adjustments to show how you fix snipe or other issues, I would've liked to see you actually make adjustments. When I first got my machine felder/hammer charged me a considerable sum to have a technician come out for several hours to adjust the machine which they said had to be damaged in shipping or something because they send their machines out fully calibrated - that wasn't my situation. The infeed and outfeed tables were out of coplanner and the technician spent a long time adjusting everything. I have had the machine for a little over 3 years and have had problems with feeding lumber through the planner and it hanging up at times or cocking through the planner. The service techs are helpful over the phone, but it seems something goes out of adjustment every few months with the planner. More recently i have been having snipe issues. I think I have it corrected but time will tell. I think I am doing the adjustments right by talking to the phone techs and the snipe goes away but after awhile it comes back - so never sure if I did the adjustments right. The design of having the infeed and outfeed table controlled separately with different lock down handles seems to make a difference for me on the jointer. How tight one handle is tightened vs. the other appears to impact the coplanner of the infeed and outfeed table. If I tighten to much on one table or the other I get back end snipe on the jointer. I loosen up a little on the outfeed table lockdown handle (I am old and not strong) so it isn't real tight to begin with and the backend snipe goes away - telling me the head raised a little above the cutting head and therefore at the fginish of the board it didn't nipe the back of the board. When the machine works well it is a beast, but in my case it is so finicky. It may be something to do with operator error, but having it for three years and it working much of the time and then me needing to start making adjustments leads me to believe the machine tolerances are not as tight as some would believe from a German made machine. This sounds like a bunch of whining and I don't mean to do that - what I would like to see is someone actually make the adjustments to the machine to fix issues like snipe - not just point where to do things but actually how they approach the adjustments. Thank you again.
@johnjucas2988 ай бұрын
Preston, thanks for taking the time to point out where the adjustments are made, but could you actually go through the process of getting a machine out of coplaner and then restoring it to where it should be. That would be a great help for many of us who are struggling with making the machine work as it should Thanks for any help John Jucas
@hugofr27082 жыл бұрын
Hello there ! Thank you for your video. I just have one thing to say. If you need to adjust jointers table, you can touch the screws you show on video, but it's not advised. Thoses screws are only the screws that hold tables on the frame. There is other screws , on each side of the springs (4, used to move tables from left to right) and below and above (4 too, used to move tables up and down) I hope I have been clear. If not, I can take pictures and send it.
@BlakePizzey2 жыл бұрын
Beautiful explanation. Way better than the terrible manual. Thank you!
@robertcornelius35142 жыл бұрын
At 5:07, you mention adjust for toe-out. Does that mean as you push the sliding table past the saw blade the wood is slighly moving away from the blade (left)? And if you use the fence, is toe-out moving away from the blade (right)?
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
That is correct. It’s particularly important with the rip fence (so you don’t create an unsafe pinching situation when ripping boards. It’s also a good practice for the sliding table side as well.
@jessedecker48452 жыл бұрын
I just got an A3-41 - I'm not really sure how to use the adjustment screws. Loosening all the bolts at once just allows the whole table to fall, not really sure why two adjustment screws are needed (one for front and one for the back). When all the locking screws are loosened where does the table pivot? Tiny adjustments to the set screws are way more than .001" at the leading edge of the table.
@jessedecker48452 жыл бұрын
When I Ioosen all the bolts - it makes no difference if I adjust the front set screw or back set screw, the end of the table will still fall away if that makes sense. There is no way to lift the end of the table with all the bolts loosened.
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
It’s very difficult. I have adjusted an A3-41 for a friend and it took me hours. Another option is to not loosen all the bolts at once (keep at least one tight) and this should prevent it from falling. When all 4 locking screws are loosened the bed is balancing on the set screws and it’s own weight, so it can be hard to adjust. You also have to adjust the locking handle. I hope this helps, but I think you’re just going to have to grind through it.
@jessedecker48452 жыл бұрын
@@prestonhoffman5695 I appreciate the reply, I haven't had much time to work on it but I'm understanding how it all works now and getting close to where I want to be with the calibration. This video is one of the only resources available, it's been very helpful!
@dwaynejohre70642 жыл бұрын
I got my A3 41 about a month ago. I used a floor jack on the end of the bed just to the point where it made contact before loosening the nuts. I also turned the bolts a cpl. turns & that helped relax the pressure on the hinge. This way I could still use the floor jack to assist in raising or lowering the end while adjusting the allen screws.
@jasondarr59112 жыл бұрын
Hey Preston! Hope you are well! Wondering if you have ever replaced the planer tables on this machine? Mine were defective and Felder sent me new tables… debating hiring someone or trying it myself!
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
I have never replaced the tables. I think you could tackle it yourself, but it will be a challenge. The beds are pretty heavy.
@jasondarr12382 жыл бұрын
@@prestonhoffman5695 Thanks bud
@tedd10912 жыл бұрын
Another Question: Have you had to replace your start capacitors on your Hammer? Mine is 6 years old and according to the Felder Tech guy the reason my saw will not start (We checked all the inter-connect safety switches) is because the start capacitor has failed
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
I have not replaced mine, but I’m not surprised that component would need replaced over time.
@tedd10912 жыл бұрын
@@prestonhoffman5695 I pressed the start button and my saw blade moved about 1/4" and stopped. The Tech said that those start capacitors fail and that Felder keeps a supply on hand if I couldn't source it locally. If you like, I'll update you when I fix it
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
Please do. I may purchase one preemptively.
@jwoodco.2392 жыл бұрын
Thank you for posting this, my machine needs a calibration badly. Appreciate it. Subscribed too 👍
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
My pleasure! Best of luck in your calibration.
@ewong74922 жыл бұрын
It would be helpful to add a section describing how to actually adjust the outfeed table, not just measure it.
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
Adjustments are exactly same as infeed if that helps. I agree that a video showing me moving through the calibration would add some value, but not as much as you think. It takes hours to calibrate correctly and my execution is not that refined since I have only done it once for myself and another time for a friend. The important detail is the overall methodology. Start at the outfeed and then move to the infeed.
@citeav572 жыл бұрын
I bought a second hand 2008 model which is slightly different to adjust. No manual to be found even after contacting felder. This video helped immensely despite the differences. Thanks so much!
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
I’m glad you found it helpful!
@alindorindicu37322 жыл бұрын
Spot on, thanks!
@burlewoodfordson39232 жыл бұрын
7 years and over 10,000 board feet, that's a lot of saw dust. Thanks for the video, looks like best jointer planer for hobby work on the market. Leave it to the Australians to make the best machines, aye mate!
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
Austrians, but yes, it’s a great machine for hobby work. I’m sure it would work for a low volume one man professional shop as well.
@payamalinasab83622 жыл бұрын
Great video man, I have a A3-41 and trying to calibrate the infeed table, and as you said I want to bring it down and start fresh from that point but I don't know why I can't bring it down, do you know why is this happening? 3 of 4 are loose and both screws on the backside are loose and they don't even touch the table and still, I can't bring that side down I really appreciate it man if you help me with that.
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
Do you have the locking knob disengaged? It should bottom out if all the set screws are loosened and locking knob is disengaged. If you do that, you will have a lot of work ahead of you, but I assure you it can be done. Best of luck!
@payamalinasab83622 жыл бұрын
@@prestonhoffman5695 the locking handle is disengaged but only 3 of 4 set screws are loose. should I loosen all of them?
@prestonhoffman56952 жыл бұрын
If you want it to lower some you may need to loosen all 4 bolts. It can be difficult doing it this way, but if the one bolt is holding it up, I don’t see how you have much choice.
@KWCabs2 жыл бұрын
Preston, my a341 seems to have a slight \ on the indeed side of the jointer and I always feel like I'm taking more of the front of the board than the back... how much is acceptable and do you have a video or instructions to make the actual adjustments as opposed to the overview of them in this video? Thanks!
Пікірлер
About your board we know some as spring tentions that make it difficult to get a perfect flat joint 😊 Thank for your video I just changed the cutter for the silence type like you have on your machine so I have to adjust everything. But I try to have the top out feed parallel to the planer one probably not necessary 😊
Dream workshop !
Easy to adjust lateral on the fence! The solid round stock that the fence rides on has two bolts through and you loose the nuts on front and back and adjust the round stock in or out to change the fences lateral adjustment.By pulling the right side of the round stock towards you will bring the fence to the right! A bit of fiddling it’s easy to do.I did it on a ALTENDORF saw which it similar 👍🏾
this is brilliant, just got my first slider and was thinking exactly this! Thanks for sharing!
Can you tell me how much height that adds ie from table base to highest point with the positioner on the table not flipped up out of the way. I have to store my table under my mitre saw table and have limited space. Thanks!!
I have the Woodpecker's coping sled. The problem is that the bit height has to be change between routing rails and stiles. This is unacceptable. This should be fine for stiles, you just have to hold the work piece firmly.
You camera being too close makes me dizzy. Your installation is halpful.
Great video. I am in the process of tuning my K3 as well and I realized I have a hallow in the case iron. I understand this is an older video, but several people here have said they have Hammer K3 machines. When measuring for the cast iron flatness, what sort of tolerance are you guys getting and what tolerance is allowed by Hammer/Felder?
Very well articulated, ty!
The fence is what makes a saw. That being said unless you had the scoring blade installed in that machine there’s no reason to pay the extra cost to own one. And yes I’ve owned one. Got rid of it and picked up a Sawstop.
I have the same until and I bought the extension to the jointer bed. Haven’t found a video on setting it up. I think I did it right, but I’d love to see how you would do it. Thx
Thank you very much for this detailed explanation. On other Felder video I saw that infeed planer roller should be 0.9 mm lower than cutting blade. But what about outfeed?
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice kzread.infoUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
I am getting my new K-3 Winner next week.This video will be a giant help!
Parts of your presentation were very helpful. (I own a A3 41 Hammer) However, I need specifics about how to make certain my helical cutter head and the two rollers are calibrated exactly for best function. Felder, so far, has not been any help. I have two project sitting which are for a charity event. Help give me a clearer understanding of how to adjust and set up these three parts relative to the planar bed.If you know where I can get this information I could really use that! Much appreciated!
Just commenting for the algorithm, I want one but it's too large for me. Enjoyed the review.
I feel like old school woodworkers who primarily use hand tools prob frown upon dudes ike u w/shops like yours, oit just has a very yuppie festooly feel to it ........which is fair considering u own virtually every tool/accessory in the rockler catalogue lol.....and full disclosure, I was kinda hoping the table turned out shitty thus enabling me to more easily satisfy the (pathetic) hater in me and give u heaps of shit for churning out crappy builds despite having 30k worth of tools in ur shop. But then u ruined my dastardly plan by making a beautiful table!! Well done, kudos to u sir. I'm off to rethink my use of time. 😐
Does a video exist where someone does an actual calibration on a machine that needs to be calibrated? Watching someone talk about calibration is nice, but I'd really like to see someone perform a calibration.
Not that I know of. Actual calibration takes hours. That’s a lot of editing for the most difficult calibration I have ever encountered.
@@prestonhoffman5695 so it is the most difficult calibration and you still recommend this ? I was thinking of getting one.
Definitely the hardest I have ever done. It’s dialed in and haven’t touched it since. I really like having a jointer/planer combo. If I wasn’t in the market for a combo I would not recommend this machine. Combo machines just make sense to me. I wish the price was a little lower, but I can’t imagine having a jointing capacity less than 12 inches at this point.
That is one clean workshop!
Great table! How was the base attached to the top?
I used threaded inserts. Domino knock down connectors would be better.
Hello Preston, Felder does have a fine-adjust ripfence on the K3 winner and winner comfort lines. Theycan be ordered as an option for your K3 basic as well, you have to change over to another guide rail as well though..
I don't understand what you did. When it came time to adjust the slider to get it parallel to the blade, you skipped past whatever you did in the video. That was the one thing I needed to see! Thanks for the tips on leveling the slide to the cast iron, but how to get it square? You leave us with lower bolt hand-tight, then you discussed your calibration blade, runout on the blade, etc., but never did get to adjusted those bolts to make slider parallel. (Crazy that it doesn't come square, for 5K, eh?)
Sorry about that. Video editing is not something I have much experience with. To get the sliding table parallel to the blade, just follow these steps. 1)keep the bottom nut hand tight on all 6 bolts (as stated in the video). 2) Measure for parallel using a dial indicator across the entire width of the blade (as shown in the video) 3) Make small lateral adjustments to the sliding table by tapping (I like to use a rubber mallet) the sliding table on each end as necessary to get alignment (this was not shown, my apologies). 4) check your work. Repeat step 2 above and 3 above until your sliding table is parallel to the blade. Expect to repeat these steps a dozen times or more to get it dialed in just right. 5) Once everything is aligned, fully tighten the bottom nut on all 6 bolts and check your work.
However don’t get me wrong: I love your most helpful videos!
what lubricant do you use?
Great video. Mine appears to be sticking after I get past the router bit towards the end of the sliding stretch. Any recommendations on that? Or do it not matter since I wont be going past the router bit anyway? Thanks for your advice.
I would try lightly greasing the rail and verifying the shaft isn’t under tension in such a way that it would bend. Any bend in the cylindrical shaft could cause the fence to bind when traversing.
Would be interested to know how you deal with the sliding table being coplanar with the cast top...or do you have the sliding table proud of the cast as felder recommends? When you hand tighten the bolts to get the sliding table parallel does that affect the height?
Great job with this video. How did you figure out what moves what? My manual was a waste of paper...
Trial and error. Make sure you check out m.kzread.info/dash/bejne/pK6i2M98qqSYlZs.html This video. There are some small adjustments you can make from the hinges. It doesn’t help me as much, but it may work well for your situation.
I know this is an older video, but what Forrest blade do you run?
I run several, but woodworker 2 is what I will frequently use
@@prestonhoffman5695 Thanks for the quick reply. Is it the 10 inch 48tooth?
@@horacionochetto8454 I don’t recall the tooth, but it’s the 12 inch.
Super nice.
Heard nothing but reasons not to buy this saw. Thanks for the info! I'll be looking at other saws. This is a clear pass.
easy to understand, thanks for the explanation.
I am astonished that people still even consider buying hammer tools. I’ve been a professional furniture maker for more than 45 years and I am now running a school for fine woodworking. We recently purchased the hammer K3 winner, which really should be called the hammer K3 loser. It has got so many flaws in it that I don’t even know where to start. Obviously the single hand wheel that constantly falls off makes no sense whatsoever. The huge gaping throat around the blade constantly sucks pieces of wood down, thin pieces of wood down into the dust system and clogs it. I have to turn off the saw, open it up and clean it out several times a day. But despite all the flaws with that tool and our flimsy joint hammer jointer, the worst part is really just dealing with hammer. When there’s a problem they say well other machines have that problem so how is that our fault? Have you ever heard a more childish response? And so far seven of our students have bought their machines and not one of them, literally, not one of them has showed up and worked. No problem, for $1000 hammer will send somebody out to fix your brand new machine that you’ve never been able to use. I don’t think I’ve ever been so disappointed in woodworking machines and the company that makes them
dat mic xD
Awesome job.
I get the impression this guy is a machinist.
Hi ,,Getting ready to install one of these ..Are you still maintaining the channel as I have a question if you have a minute
👍👍🇧🇪
Thank you for the great presentation of where the adjustments can be made. Unfortunately for me, I have the same machine and have not had the same quality results. It's too bad everything worked so well in your demonstration and you didn't have to actually make any adjustments to show how you fix snipe or other issues, I would've liked to see you actually make adjustments. When I first got my machine felder/hammer charged me a considerable sum to have a technician come out for several hours to adjust the machine which they said had to be damaged in shipping or something because they send their machines out fully calibrated - that wasn't my situation. The infeed and outfeed tables were out of coplanner and the technician spent a long time adjusting everything. I have had the machine for a little over 3 years and have had problems with feeding lumber through the planner and it hanging up at times or cocking through the planner. The service techs are helpful over the phone, but it seems something goes out of adjustment every few months with the planner. More recently i have been having snipe issues. I think I have it corrected but time will tell. I think I am doing the adjustments right by talking to the phone techs and the snipe goes away but after awhile it comes back - so never sure if I did the adjustments right. The design of having the infeed and outfeed table controlled separately with different lock down handles seems to make a difference for me on the jointer. How tight one handle is tightened vs. the other appears to impact the coplanner of the infeed and outfeed table. If I tighten to much on one table or the other I get back end snipe on the jointer. I loosen up a little on the outfeed table lockdown handle (I am old and not strong) so it isn't real tight to begin with and the backend snipe goes away - telling me the head raised a little above the cutting head and therefore at the fginish of the board it didn't nipe the back of the board. When the machine works well it is a beast, but in my case it is so finicky. It may be something to do with operator error, but having it for three years and it working much of the time and then me needing to start making adjustments leads me to believe the machine tolerances are not as tight as some would believe from a German made machine. This sounds like a bunch of whining and I don't mean to do that - what I would like to see is someone actually make the adjustments to the machine to fix issues like snipe - not just point where to do things but actually how they approach the adjustments. Thank you again.
Preston, thanks for taking the time to point out where the adjustments are made, but could you actually go through the process of getting a machine out of coplaner and then restoring it to where it should be. That would be a great help for many of us who are struggling with making the machine work as it should Thanks for any help John Jucas
Hello there ! Thank you for your video. I just have one thing to say. If you need to adjust jointers table, you can touch the screws you show on video, but it's not advised. Thoses screws are only the screws that hold tables on the frame. There is other screws , on each side of the springs (4, used to move tables from left to right) and below and above (4 too, used to move tables up and down) I hope I have been clear. If not, I can take pictures and send it.
Beautiful explanation. Way better than the terrible manual. Thank you!
At 5:07, you mention adjust for toe-out. Does that mean as you push the sliding table past the saw blade the wood is slighly moving away from the blade (left)? And if you use the fence, is toe-out moving away from the blade (right)?
That is correct. It’s particularly important with the rip fence (so you don’t create an unsafe pinching situation when ripping boards. It’s also a good practice for the sliding table side as well.
I just got an A3-41 - I'm not really sure how to use the adjustment screws. Loosening all the bolts at once just allows the whole table to fall, not really sure why two adjustment screws are needed (one for front and one for the back). When all the locking screws are loosened where does the table pivot? Tiny adjustments to the set screws are way more than .001" at the leading edge of the table.
When I Ioosen all the bolts - it makes no difference if I adjust the front set screw or back set screw, the end of the table will still fall away if that makes sense. There is no way to lift the end of the table with all the bolts loosened.
It’s very difficult. I have adjusted an A3-41 for a friend and it took me hours. Another option is to not loosen all the bolts at once (keep at least one tight) and this should prevent it from falling. When all 4 locking screws are loosened the bed is balancing on the set screws and it’s own weight, so it can be hard to adjust. You also have to adjust the locking handle. I hope this helps, but I think you’re just going to have to grind through it.
@@prestonhoffman5695 I appreciate the reply, I haven't had much time to work on it but I'm understanding how it all works now and getting close to where I want to be with the calibration. This video is one of the only resources available, it's been very helpful!
I got my A3 41 about a month ago. I used a floor jack on the end of the bed just to the point where it made contact before loosening the nuts. I also turned the bolts a cpl. turns & that helped relax the pressure on the hinge. This way I could still use the floor jack to assist in raising or lowering the end while adjusting the allen screws.
Hey Preston! Hope you are well! Wondering if you have ever replaced the planer tables on this machine? Mine were defective and Felder sent me new tables… debating hiring someone or trying it myself!
I have never replaced the tables. I think you could tackle it yourself, but it will be a challenge. The beds are pretty heavy.
@@prestonhoffman5695 Thanks bud
Another Question: Have you had to replace your start capacitors on your Hammer? Mine is 6 years old and according to the Felder Tech guy the reason my saw will not start (We checked all the inter-connect safety switches) is because the start capacitor has failed
I have not replaced mine, but I’m not surprised that component would need replaced over time.
@@prestonhoffman5695 I pressed the start button and my saw blade moved about 1/4" and stopped. The Tech said that those start capacitors fail and that Felder keeps a supply on hand if I couldn't source it locally. If you like, I'll update you when I fix it
Please do. I may purchase one preemptively.
Thank you for posting this, my machine needs a calibration badly. Appreciate it. Subscribed too 👍
My pleasure! Best of luck in your calibration.
It would be helpful to add a section describing how to actually adjust the outfeed table, not just measure it.
Adjustments are exactly same as infeed if that helps. I agree that a video showing me moving through the calibration would add some value, but not as much as you think. It takes hours to calibrate correctly and my execution is not that refined since I have only done it once for myself and another time for a friend. The important detail is the overall methodology. Start at the outfeed and then move to the infeed.
I bought a second hand 2008 model which is slightly different to adjust. No manual to be found even after contacting felder. This video helped immensely despite the differences. Thanks so much!
I’m glad you found it helpful!
Spot on, thanks!
7 years and over 10,000 board feet, that's a lot of saw dust. Thanks for the video, looks like best jointer planer for hobby work on the market. Leave it to the Australians to make the best machines, aye mate!
Austrians, but yes, it’s a great machine for hobby work. I’m sure it would work for a low volume one man professional shop as well.
Great video man, I have a A3-41 and trying to calibrate the infeed table, and as you said I want to bring it down and start fresh from that point but I don't know why I can't bring it down, do you know why is this happening? 3 of 4 are loose and both screws on the backside are loose and they don't even touch the table and still, I can't bring that side down I really appreciate it man if you help me with that.
Do you have the locking knob disengaged? It should bottom out if all the set screws are loosened and locking knob is disengaged. If you do that, you will have a lot of work ahead of you, but I assure you it can be done. Best of luck!
@@prestonhoffman5695 the locking handle is disengaged but only 3 of 4 set screws are loose. should I loosen all of them?
If you want it to lower some you may need to loosen all 4 bolts. It can be difficult doing it this way, but if the one bolt is holding it up, I don’t see how you have much choice.
Preston, my a341 seems to have a slight \ on the indeed side of the jointer and I always feel like I'm taking more of the front of the board than the back... how much is acceptable and do you have a video or instructions to make the actual adjustments as opposed to the overview of them in this video? Thanks!