This channel focuses on fixing, repairing, restoring and upgrading components of your personal classic car providing “how to” advice for the average guy with limited knowledge, experience and budget.
Follow along and learn from my 35 years of personal experience I’ve acquired wrenching on my own project cars through the years. I’ve made lots of mistakes over those years and continue to experience new problems I’ve never seen before. See and learn how I overcome these challenges and find solutions without breaking the bank.
If you like 60's and 70's Mopars and / or you own a Mopar from that era this is the place for you. Keep in mind although the cars I work on are Mopars these actions and activities are applicable to all classic cars and what you learn here in most cases can be applied to any make and model.
Join me and live and breath the classic car lifestyle as I see and live it. I hope I’m able to earn your subscription and I hope you enjoy the videos.
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I would take that car as a daily driver in a heart beat; would be super easy to work on and maintain😊
What is your opinion on the A arms overall since they've been in. I just bought a set of the version 2.0 spc adjustables
Its not that the slant is not powerful enough, it doesn't have the gear ratio to produce the leverage the engine needs. Put a 3.23 gear in the back and a 4 speed overdrive and you gain like a 25 percent increase in leverage.
Awesome video - looks like you guys have way too much fun! Once Dorothy's wheel spin is worked out/reduced, things will get even more interesting. Was nice that they let you guys have that last race.
@@danielmullins7883 Thanks Dan. It was a blast. Looking forward to more races to come with hopefully some faster 60’ times.
Dude i think i finally understand now thanks i have watched a hand full of videos and none as good as explaining as yours .... Trynna time my 87 monte carlo thanks again
@@lilbbbbbbb You’re welcome buddy. Good luck with the Monte.
A 904 would have left dorothy behind..... Sad little A body 😂😂
@@moparnut6286 lol
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Also use angled side cutters on difficult cotter pins and use the backside of the side cutters as leverage and pry the cotter pin out The curved head really helps with this. I also use two pair of angled head side cutters for stuck emergency brake cables, and leverage them against each other.
@@MarcS-mp1je good tips.
A man after my own heart with the pipe wrench on rounded brake line fittings these and/or my channelock 410 pliers are my go to’s and work like a charm
@@MarcS-mp1je They sure do.
Is he missing gears?
@@infamousnova He said the trans was a racing trans that doesn’t have synchros. He said it’s a pain to shift cause if you don’t shift just right you’ll never get it into the next gear. But something went wrong with it. He said he can’t get it to shift under acceleration. He can only get it to shift cruising. Anyway, he’s getting another trans with synchros.
Fun night of racing. The drone really added some sweet shots to the video. Great editing as always!
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks Joe. It’s been a blast racing the street cars on street tires. It makes the slow Belvedere within striking range even though it’s on the slower end of the spectrum. Got some tweaks to see if they help I’m gonna try. $ is tight but hope to get some 90/10’s and do a JustMopar Joe upper A arm trim too. If not it’ll be in the next round of changes.
Close race
@@infamousnova It was.
🎉
When sorta sorta brings a not like the other cars car karma sorta happens.
@@stannelson2582 Lol. It’s sure playing out that way. One of the many joys of racing, expect the unexpected.
Always 1 Mustang trying to hang out with the Mopars lol
@@roadhardrestorations lol. True.
Just changed the pads on my '69 Bee, Original 11" drum brakes all around, Front pads were 3" wide (part# BB 336), Rear were 2 1/2 wide (part # BB 335). I also noticed the Oreilly's part # for the drums you mentioned would match up with the front drums and they don't show a part # that matches up with the rear. My 50+ year old drums were able to be turned so I did not have to go thru the pain you did. Thank you for the video, I bookmarked for when I do end up needing rear drums.
@@anthonyrodriguez4210 Thanks for the comment and part numbers Anthony. I’m sure someone has struggled in the past and will struggle in the future and hopefully they find this video.
Old school tracks are cool. I don't think I've been to a drag way that short, but it makes the action super quick.
@@snake_eyes_garage It sure does. But still lots of fun no matter how long the track is.
The competition heats up!
@@TsGoodTimesGarage Man, that was a lot of fun. Street tires are the equalizer.
Hell yeah!!! Wish I was there with you guys!
@@PontiacRaysGarage You can’t have too many camera guys. You shoulda came out.
Good video! Alot of close races that night. Im like you won, you won. Then you explained the redlight, man. That would have been a good win. That Nobolts is hard to beat. A few more tweaks and the rest of them guys are in trouble
Thanks Infamous. Just made some tweaks today. I took you up on the shock adjustment, set them to 4, let’s see what it does. I’ll be tweaking more stuff over the weekend. Not sure if we’ll get a race in before Duct Tape, the guys are talking about doing a road course next time out. Doorthy is nowhere close to being set up for that so I think I’m just gonna get her ready for Duct Tape Drags. Of course I’ll have slicks so it’s not really a good test for the adjustments made. But that’s ok.
And yes, No Bolts is tough to beat. But, I think Doorthy has been getting in his head. He knows she comes out of the hole fast. If I had the taller gears I might have got him. It woulda been me out first then him running me down for a photo finish.
Dorothy not doing to be bad, congrats
Thanks Jimmy. She’s great for this hard tire racing. But she still needs more traction and a little bit more power.
Yooo so sick! Next time I'm coming back for revenge 😉
lol. Awesome! I’m looking forward to it.
Awesome video! Cant wait to see where you go from here!
Me too man. Made some tweaks today. Gonna make more over the weekend. And get her ready for Duct Tape.
I like the red bushings.
@@Campbase1 Really? I didn’t think anyone would want to use them.
@@JonnyMopar I think they are cool. Makes it look custom.
@@Campbase1 You have a point.
Thank you sir!
@@TheRareCriticalThinker You’re welcome
@@JonnyMopar hi again! My 67 Mustang doesn’t have degree markings on the harmonic balancer. How do I move forward with my digital timing light?
@@TheRareCriticalThinker I can’t see how it doesn’t. Maybe it’s on the other side? Some cars or engines have the marks on the driver side while others are on the passenger. You’ll have to establish TDC. If you want perfect timing you’re gonna need an accurate way to find when the #1 piston gets to TDC. Then you’ll have to mark your harmonic balancer and the timing chain cover then time it. If just close is good enough. Pull the #1 plug, with your finger over the hole bump the engine over until the pressure is maxed, if you feel vacuum you went too far. Do it again if you went too far. Once you feel max pressure that’s TDC. It might be a couple of degrees off but it’ll be close. Now make your marks on the balancer and timing cover and then time it.
In your opinion who makes the best Disc kit for the Charger?
I think top of the line is Bear Brakes. But that’s some serious money. I think the Wildwood is pretty decent but I also heard Birdsong complain about them. Of course, he runs his shit hard. He runs race car brakes now. So if you’re gonna run it hard, go Bear. If it’s street I just run the generic stuff. Not the greatest in performance but it works ok. Basically it’s all factory A body disc brake stuff. I bought them on eBay, I don’t remember the brand.
Better cut the extra thread off the u bolts
@@adamhoffman3687 why?
@@adamhoffman3687 I don’t want to cut them because I may use them with 2” drop blocks at some point. Probably not on this car.
@JonnyMopar as a young guy I helped a older guy that was kinda a mentor. On his race cars he always made sure that none of the bolts were more then a couple of threads past the nuts. He was very particular about his race cars appearance and functionality. The long leftovers of threads were added weight and drag in the wind. He said the devil is in the details. Must be true because he had walls full of trophy's . He never went to loose
Dorthy got some ruby red slippaaah’s
@@mikesimmons5416 lol. Indeed.
Keep up the hard work. It's paying off , stay tuned with fellow friends fifty nine :>
@@profitlauncher22 Thanks Profit launcher.
Awesome work. You will have to come up with a solution for that bolt hitting that bracket or it will keep everything in a bind which you probably figured that out. Anyway, if it were me I would probably do a little bit of grinding on the spring hanger bracket to allow for clearance and then maybe weld on some sort of reinforcement onto that bracket. Maybe half of a flat washer
Well, I was looking at their other kits for Chevys of Mustangs and they don’t even use that bolt. BTW, I saw them after I already cut mine. But it got me thinking, is it even needed if they deleted it on other kits? They was it gets sandwiched in there I don’t think it’s needed to hold it in place. Oh well.
Sorry about your hand
@@RobertJohnson-uo7nj Thanks Robert. It’s fine now. But damn that hurt.
@@JonnyMopar I bet Brother! Hand injuries are terrible!
Awesome
I feel like with those gears, they will probably not be as great out of the hole, since your smaller engine and less aggressive gears allowed you you get the drop on some of the guys with more displacement out of the hole. The gearing, and the (lack of) power allowed you to grab when they could not. I do think though having power going to both tires, and the gearing, should allow you to remove that advantage they had on the top end to a good degree. I'm really curious on how this is going to work. Awesome job explaining the process!
@@HighRevNation Well…your assumptions are mostly correct. There’s more bad results from the gear change. The next race was at Perris, only a 330’ track. So the loosing top end part of your theory wasn’t really realized at this track. But I’m sure you’re right and will be realized on a longer track. Anyway, I plan on releasing the next video at the track this Thursday at 3:45 pm pacific. You’ll get to see how it all plays out. Still a good time. But more changes will be required.
02:50 don't you need to get the push rod out of the way? Or is it really as simple as just installing the pump and somehow it will latch correctly itself?
@@leemartin2990 I put grease on the push rod and push it up before inserting the fuel pump. The grease will hold it up for a few seconds, long enough to get the pump in. You do that and it’s easy as pie.
@@leemartin2990 There’s nothing to latch. The push rod pushes down on the pump arm.
Yo Jonny, another great job
@@Greg383BB Thanks Greg.
We're you using the adjustable wrench as a jackstand?
Nope.
@@joelh3030 Lol. No. It was just against the ground.
Hmmm that would help! How do you know what size shock to use?
@@LouisFML1 Do you mean length? Calvert has a variety of shocks for various.applications. I’m using the one for a B body. And it’s a gas shock so the shock doesn’t center like a KYB. It’s at rest position is ride height. So for example I have a 1” drop block, the the shock at rest height is 1” compressed from what would have been center. Hope that makes sense.
mopar best.
I love what you are doing Jon , people will benefit from your videos . I am proud of you , keep up the great work !
@@EvansBrosRacing Thanks Ted. I wish I did this 30 years ago.
Vr1 is not good enough for flat tappet break in, but it is ok for post broken in engines.
@@Jay-fb2lv I use driven break in oil these days for break in.
Looking forward to how they go on the track! I like your idea of getting out in front on the short track
@@JustMoparJoe I’ll just say it was a wild ride. Slide A Links were a move in the right direction. But the 3.91’s just rip both tires now.
Two barrel yes go back to the two barrel lol.
@@stannelson2582 lol
Why so tight
@@infamousnova I think it’s supposed to be stiff on a foot break car. I think soft if trans break.
@@JonnyMopar loosen them up to about 4/5
@@infamousnova 10-4, I’ll give it a try. Thanks Infamous.
Take some air out
@@infamousnova I left it at 25 lbs. yeah, I need to try less psi but I don’t think it’s gonna help as much as I need it to.
@JonnyMopar ok that sounds fine, your shock setting is a lil tight
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Psi maybe,I wounder if can pre treat tires with something to soften tread.
@@machoman5356 I don’t know of anything. But I think when I have some extra cash I want to look into a better tire. We have to use hard tire in this competition.
@@JonnyMoparGo Big Mopar!
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Brother, I love a step by step video! Thanks. God bless
@@bradsrestorations1085 Thanks Brad.