Rich Langner - Electronics
Rich Langner - Electronics
Content here is always original and some of it is never-before-seen techniques, such as my 50 year old soldering trick which I thought everyone used as it made life so much easier - but years of trawling the web turned up no results for it. So I made a video and it has even amazed engineers with years of experience in soldering.
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Brilliant.
You... you... you've changed my life.
Nice technique! You are using a Weller, aren't you?
Very smart.
very nice circuit and probes... if i want to measure batteries internal resistance with this, the batteries above 5v would induce voltage back right? and if that happens so could we add 2 diodes on usb and ground to prevent it and not be concearned with polarity right?
I assume you are joking.... (if not, please do not connect probes to any source of power)
I wrap 3 turns of 1mm solder around the end of the stripped wire. Now you can solder and fully tin it in one move
Thanks for the suggestion. My method heats the wire, which heats the PCB, which will melt the solder ONLY when both conductors are up to temperature avoiding cold joints. Unless you are very careful with your method, the solder will melt before the conductors are up to temperature. Although... I have seen others use it to good effect .
Great tip worked great. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to have helped you!
Seems to be genious! I will try this!!!❤
USB will not supply 5V with this circuit!
You are quite right, there will not be 5v at the probe terminals. To avoid turning on transistors or diodes in the circuit under test, we keep the test voltage very low. It is the current in the short circuit we are concerned with, and the voltmeter gives a comparative indication of readings. I hope this makes sense to you now.
I've always held the wire between thumb and 3rd finger, and the solder between 1st & 2nd fingers. I can feed the solder into the joint with a bit of nimble finger work, but this method seems much better, will definitely give it a go.
This is a great tip! I actually made something almost identical but using thin brass strips with kapton tape separating them. It was rather fiddly to use though, your idea of using the adhesive copper tape is brilliant!
Thanks, the most obvious ways are usually the best!
Its very cool🎉 but very bad🥲.. just tin the pad then tin the wire, add flux and solder the wire to the pad.. and make sure you have the concave shape,, not big blob of solder like that!
I agree, you can carry solder on the iron and use separate flux, but for multicore solder this method works well and is quick and easy when working on site. As for the shape of the solder on the joint, concave is indeed appropriate for through-hole wires. A wire resting on a pad doesn't have much strength though, so a bit more solder helps here.
That brought back memories Richard. The punctuation mark that I remember was 0/3/8 for a comma. When you used them for programming it was recommended to add a sequence number to the card on the RHS. This was needed in case a tray of cards containing a program got dropped on the floor. You would then need to run the recovered pack through the sorter to get them back in the correct order.
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Brilliant!
Thank you! I'm so glad you like this method.
this method is total genius! As a beginner I must try this out
Thanks! I glad my method has helped you.
This solution is quite crude looking due to the nature of the resistors used and the power supply voltage. If accuracy is desired (which should be for this miliohm meter) a higher tolerance resitors must be used. Otherwise a current sourcing circuit must be implemented with LM317T or similar device. Nonetheless great tutorial.
Crude, yes, and I agree with all your comments. It's really designed to find shorts to make not exact measurement. Glad you liked the video though, thank you!
Thanks, excellent. What type/reference should we look for the Schottky diode?
Any 1 amp (or greater) schottky diode will do such as 1N5817, 1N5818, 1N5819, or even surface mount types. Working maximum voltage must be more that 5v, which they all are! The important thing to get right is the wattage of the resistors - ensure at least 1 watt.
Why do they pulse charge?
Battery chemistry is complex, and there are many reasons to pulse charge. Perhaps some other commenters can explain.
@@richardlangner Can measure bat voltage between charge pulses.
@@2OO_OK Another reason is for burp charging
Like it. A useful test, generally fiddly to do, made easy. Elegant.
Thank you. It's nice to have helped.
Nice idea. Thanks.
You are most welcome
A thought to add... If the builder has a thin piece of double-clad copper board (the type used to etch a DIY PCB,) that might be a good material with which to make the probe. I am not speaking of perf board. That would not work, of course. HTH someone.
That was the way I used to do it back in the day, so it's worth me adding a mention in the description. Thank you for the reminder. The only issue I had was the PCB was sometimes too thick and It also depends if you have some board to hand.
Very clever!
Thank you!
👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the thumbs-ups
Not bad, not bad, not sure if standard production method of tinning the pads and tinning the wire in a pot is faster or slower, should be on par. Frankly I avoid soldering wire to board at all - poke in or idc or lever operated connectors is still better.
The sense wires need to be down at the probe end, not back at the power supply end. These are not Kelvin probes. Preferably they will be on separate probes, but if you are close enough to the tip you will mostly get away with this.
Thanks, I realsied that and the later version had the wire soldered to the eye of the needle near the point. In any case the video was for comparative readings, not as an accurate instrument.
so if i followed all your videos correctly the "best" design is this but with the wires soldered in the needle's eye, yes?
Yes of course you are right. My later versions used the eyes. Same applies to my kelvin probes kzread.info/dash/bejne/oXWbp9qegd3dlKjW.html
Thank you !
Ingenious!!!!
Thank you!
Simple and cheap, I like it.
Thanks for the kind comment. A friend wanted to measure the sleep current of his car after various sections shut down gradually, and this would be an ideal way to do it. Just replace the relevant fuse with a blown one (so you can connect wires to it) and put the diode/resistor/meter across it (and a fuse in series for extra protection of course).
On the offchance anyone sees this since this video was released a while ago What should I do if, when I plug the device in, the computer doesn't recognize it, so it just leaves me with the "please plug in the device" message?
Hi Linda. Did you connect the ATtiny only after the request to plug it in? Is the ATtiny new, or have you tried another? Please let me know.
@@richardlangner Hi, thank you for your quick response. At first I had it plugged in so I unplugged it and re-plugged it as you said in the video. The ATtiny is new, yes.
@@lindalaufer2949 I assume you followed the video and installed the USB driver. My method worked for all the devices I have tried. If possible I would try another ATtiny on another system. There may be something peculiar about your device, it's difficult to tell without trying. The devices sometimes come with an LED flasher program, and when powered up the ATtiny normally waits 5 seconds or so to see if it's going to be programmed. After that it will not respond to programming as the software serial is turned off. Try various substitutions and let me know how you get on.
Control Panel | Device Manager | Ports | (Top Menu) View Hidden Devices Uninstall each greyed-out USB jack icon. That clears out unused, but reserved COM ports. I have found this an annoying problem when connecting and reconnecting virtual COM port devices. Perhaps someone can write a script to do this.
Thanks, that's a good way to do it. Windows should have easier options.
Very useful. ! top hack Unk.!
Windows is stupid. It doesn't release ports when it should.
Thanks for the feedback. I made the video to import whole projects, but VSC has changed and the video needs a remake. I have a couple of other short videos to make first. Subscribe and click on the bell so you don't miss them.
Exactly what I was looking for, thank you! you mentioned at the end of the video that you would show us how to import entire projects into PlatformIO. I haven't done a deep search into your channel yet, but usually what happens is the KZread algorithm will show that video, usually, as the top of the list of suggested videos. But I'm not seeing it. Just mentioning that in case there's a way on your end to help users find it - maybe some sort of keywords placed in the meta of the video to help find it.... All said, thank you for this video! Great help!
Excellent.I have wasted 8 plugs getting it wrong,each plug took about 5 minutes! But I tried to do it on the same way as you demenstrated so nicely.
Nice little series of videos - thx a lot ! Can you give a link to import whole Arduino projects - please ?
Hi Keld, importing a full Arduino project is a bit more tricky. You have to ensure you gather all the dependencies in the right place. I may do a video about it later.
@@richardlangner OK - I thought you said so in the video - TGX anyway !
That was brilliant! So may sketches have "handle message arrived" now I know how to handle it.
I will try the extra capacitor. Thanks for the tip!
It says my HFE files are too big to import?
How large is the file?
Wowww very well explained 🤙👏👏👏
It's not due to the inefficiency of the converter... It's due to the age and quality of the used cells. But yes, the marketing is, as usual, misleading. It does state the capacity at nominal cell voltage, which is usually considered to be 3.7V
The power bank is about a year old, and it tested the same when new as it does now. I have hardly used it as I thought it was a fake and nearly returned it to the store. I also think the boost efficiency looks poor, so there may be something I've missed.
I done the same test with different brands the best was a basic anker micro usb 10AH 2 usb came out at 9600MAH I had others come out at 8000 and 6800MAH but never this low. Some brands also state the rated vs the battery capacity. Like the cuktech no 30 is 40AH battery and rated as 22AH output.
That's interesting, thanks. I tried getting into my unit, but it is all glued tight shut, so I can't get the the cells to measure them properly.
If you went for a lower current, I would expect a higher efficiency. An efficiency of around 70 to 80% should be possible.
You're probably right, as my test was not very accurate. It was to demonstrate that the voltage difference can lead to the wrong expectation of capacity, even if the boost converter has no loss. Thanks for your feedback, it's appreciated.
Excellent calm delivery. Explains facts rather than ranting about ripoffs.
Can you add auxillary in ?
Thats tops 👍 what type of speaker did you add? Where to buy parts? what is max capacity size of speaker ? I have floor standing speakers, can you also add a subwoofer?
Doing the micronucleus step works; thank you. However, my ATtiny85 doesn't show up in the device manager, and nothing happens when I install the drivers.
Ensure Zadig has the correct settings so that loads the correct drivers. Remmber to to refresh Device Mangler.
@@richardlangner my device doesn't show up in Zadig. Regardless, I installed the same drivers as per the video, but it has no effect.
@@nabilandadamslaboratory3422 The ATTiny does not have a hardware USB interface, instead it is implemented in software during the first 5 seconds of power-up. Assuming you have installed the Zadig driver, open Device Manager and watch it as you plug in the ATTiny. You will see the device name pop up as a device for the first few seconds, then disappear. The trick is to follow my video - start the upload then after a second or two plug in the ATTiny. Let me kknow how you get on.
i really wish i could justify the cost, you make a compelling case.