The washing of the cylinders by gasoline could have been caused by multiple Issues for example it could have had a bad fuel injector that staying open it could have a bad fuel pressure regulator..These 4.0 engines are also known for having oiling issues on cylinder #6 my dad has blown up 2 of these engines and both cylinder 6s were ran Without oil somehow I think it's just the bad design of this engine or a flaw perhaps in the oiling ...?

@UncleTonysGarage

Жыл бұрын

Port injected, so a stuck injector would only wash one cylinder...and a bad coolant temp sensor would not have fed this volume of gas to the engine. Same with a non functioning pressure regulator (unless the diaphragm is ruptured but then the engine probably wouldn't run for more than a few seconds, and again it would mostly effect the cylinder closest to the vacuum port) A bad MAP will absolutely wash the inside of an engine by hanging the injectors wide open.

@jimmyraythomason1

Жыл бұрын

@@UncleTonysGarage My 4.0 was over fuelling badly, to the point of diluting the engine oil. Turned out to be a badly cracked exhaust manifold/ header and a bad o2 sensor.

@kaboom4679

Жыл бұрын

Second on the MAP sensor . My nephew bought an 88 2wd 5 speed the PO got tired of trying to fix . Of course they had no idea WTH they were doing so in true shade tree fashion proceeded to fire multiple broadsides from the parts cannon . None of these parts was a new MAP sensor and half the.lines were disconnected or misrouted . So my nephew gets this heap home and it promptly set the grass under it on fire . The MAP sensor vacuum line was unhooked making the computer believe the engine was at WOT and maxed out the injector duty cycle . All this fuel caused the catalytic converter to overheat . Luckily I had a garden hose handy and spent the next 3 days fixing all the " repairs " done by the PO . After that the thing was as dependable as could be and no more grass fires .

@CanadaBud23

Жыл бұрын

Map has a very high priority on fueling.

@tarstarkusz

Жыл бұрын

Why do the rods and caps need to be kept together?

An easy trick to not lose parts or fasteners is to minimize the time between tear down and reassembly

@bob8776

Жыл бұрын

The small block chevy sitting in the corner of my shop for the last five years would probably agree with you

@erwinnijs1

Жыл бұрын

I never lose fasteners. I always have extra after the job 😬

@rockroll3983

Жыл бұрын

on my engine tear downs i will place the bolts back into the holes they come out of. keeps them where they go when you need to put it back together. another time step but pays in the long run.

@yurimodin7333

Жыл бұрын

@@bob8776 i know the pain of that reality

@claycoates5056

Жыл бұрын

@@erwinnijs1 WOW that can be a problem do you have extra rod bolts ;-)

It's funny because I even feel like I'm fancy and cheating if I use a speedwrench over a rachet. Haha. Also, with the tapping piston assemblies out, I use the wooden handle end of my ball pein hammer so there's no chance of damage. Granted, now after 33 years, the handle is splintered to hell now. Haha.

@wendyenglish1403

Жыл бұрын

@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please

@shaggydogg630

Жыл бұрын

I’ve got a very old “ Blue Point” hammer handle that looks the same way.

@mph5896

Жыл бұрын

Definitely not production work. Dealers everything gets blasted on/off with the battery tools to a torque of it stopped

Making a video or group of videos that give a semi detailed instruction to engine tear down, rebuild and reassembly is a daunting task.

I usually number stamp my rod caps and main caps. That's was what my grandpa use to do.

@johnkranyics281

Жыл бұрын

Dots with a centre punch.🇨🇦

@sometimesleela5947

Жыл бұрын

Mine came back from the machine shop like that. Every last cap flattened slightly out of round by the impacts. Very bitter about this even 40 yrs later.

@brianstumo8581

Жыл бұрын

my grandpa always said if you cant fix it with a screw driver, or hammer or a gross of rubbers just fuck it. no my grandpa didnt say that lol actually i was at a ford class and our tech said mechanics are getting lazy and those were the tools for a job if it took any more they wipe there hands of doing the job . i understood where he was coming from blunt and to the point great Tech he was

I use a sheet of cardboard marked front/back and driver/passenger when I have to keep track of bolts. Just pop them through in order and it's easy to keep track.

@chrisstika8658

Жыл бұрын

When I bag parts on big projects l all ways tag things Driver or pass side.

@sailincat2822

Жыл бұрын

^^^ This. Scrap of cardboard, label with felt tip marker, punch holes for bolts, valves, etc. I 'number' pistons and rods using very light 'hash marks' cut with a thin abrasive wheel in a Dremel. *gasp!* On aluminum, light marks with a small chisel work too. Don't make these marks on highly stressed areas, such as connecting rod beams or middle of rod caps. Mark the same areas used for balancing.

@wendyenglish1403

Жыл бұрын

@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please

There are some interviews here on KZread with one of the cylinder head engineers for this engine. He mentioned that the straight 6 was the most profitable engine in Chrysler's history. Part of that profitability was the use of the cheapest cast pistons possible. This engine greatly benefits from a nice set of 4032 forgings or hypereutectics.

Tony, The best auto shop teacher you never had! Lol. Your stuff is wonderful Tony. You instruct but you entertain at the same time. What a great personality. Thanks, Dave

Love the slow pace of these videos. For a guy who knows FA about stuff like this, it's fascinating.

In high school autoshop, we stamped cylinder numbers on each cap, rod, piston and in such a way we had a reference to not reverse them - they went back in the exact sample places and orientaion. Values were kept in a wooden jig with numbered holes/boxes to hold each valve with their rocker and springs.

Hey Tony. Better to sit and watch each step as it comes (even if it is in silence) than to just explain in a general way, without showing the procedure. I much prefer your way, over some others who really don't want to show too much, and seem to like the sound of their own voice. Keep doing good!!!

@speedeetrim4028

Жыл бұрын

agreed...the suspense of going thru the whole motor & finding the failure

Took a class at my local community college where I learned about this process. Was able to dig into a bunch of new engines, and learned a lot of really good stuff. Now I am about to start in on my 1966 Cadillac CDV. Been looking at her in the garage for months, and I do believe the time is near for our relationship to grow =) Thank you or these videos!

Classic case of muffler belt too loose causing the timing regulator to over stimulate the carbinator thus the #6 piston failure.

Screw the piston dome to a door and use it as a knocker. The missing skirt facing down will allow the rod to swing into the door unobstructed.

There seems to be a lost art these days in using hand tools. I try to use them when I can as well. Thank you for your content UTG!

An alternative to pounding down the pistons is to use a piece of woodstick. Hickory is hard and nice, and will not make any dents regardless.

Just finished tearing my engine apart. Aside from a rust ridge on cylinder 1 it's surprisingly good for sitting open in a junkyard for 6 months. It's so caked in old oil that it protected everything. Even the bearings show minor wear.

@wendyenglish1403

Жыл бұрын

@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please

I saw a trick online that uses a big piece of cardboard for bolts. You take one bolt off at a time and place in the position as they were on. I took a sharpie pen and drew a simple outline or write what the bolt group is for. I use a drill to make a pilot hole quickly before pushing each bolt through the cardboard. Im telling you, its so easy and makes life 1,000 easier when taking things apart and putting back

You're doing God's work, Uncle Tony. Truly, thank you.

These episodes are released exactly a month behind my first tear down and rebuild process, step for step. Feels like uncle Tony is grading me every step of the way

Uncle Tony i wish I had these videos when I was a teenager pulling engines out in my mother's driveway . I'm 49 now and my fear is there's generations of kids who can't open a car hood .

I like the way you work and operate:) I have a 1997 Cherokee I've had 20 years. Good vehicle:)

great content, have a 318 I'll be doing my 1st complete rebuild this summer. This series of yours is perfect. Thanks!

I had an uncle named Tony, he was an ol school gear head like you and he rode a triumph and drove a 60 Impala, he passed away in a car accident as a passenger, RIP T-bone

I'm using your playlist to make sure my first build is going on track! 🙏 so its working, i watch everything you make cuz it's honestly the best methods for me

YOU TAKE YOUR TIME ! All the time you need !

When you said "Just use an airgun !" I laughed. My OCD was saying the exact same thing ! Lol

Tony: “Judging by the general condition of this, I’m gonna say that this engine had a bad MAP sensor” Me: “you know I was just thinking the same thing” Not hating, Im just remind of why I’m here: UT knows his shit

Yes exactly. Those rod and caps have to go back on the exact rod and correct direction that they came off. Same with the main bearing caps, put back exactly where and direction they came from. Very important.

I love the tap on the rod bolt nuts technique to separate the rod cap from the rod thank you

Watching a bunch of your videos and its making me really excited to start tearing down and rebuilding my 327.

I just did a 2.3 Ranger engine that drove into the shop. The piston skirt and rings were laying in the bottom of the pan. Ended up doing a hone job on it and a new set of pistons rings and bearings.

YES!!! Early to a video release!! Thank you for these videos.

@wendyenglish1403

Жыл бұрын

@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please

Very similar of how I work.. again great conformation that I have been on track with my projects…

I like the slow pace of these videos, after 30+ years of only changing out "wear parts" like starters, misc parts, I'm getting ready to attempt my first "rebuild" (Toyota 22r) Plan is same as this, just replace all parts with stock (except cam, to go with the header and Weber/ Offy manifold!)

I would have liked to see if that last main girdle bolt was as tight before removing all of the rest. Ive always thought that you want to remove main bolts in reverse order. No shade just admiration/curiosity. You have created a great channel with copious and easily digested info as well as what looks to be a kickass life brother! Keep up the good work!

the wire you keep finding could be the spring under the timing cover that keeps the camshaft back

I recently replaced the oil pan gasket on my ‘74 Imperial. There was a connecting rod nut laying in the bottom of the pan. Ofcourse none of the nuts on the rods were missing otherwise you would blow the engine. I was atill shocked to find it. This was an all original engine, never been apart.

Tony, another good vid as usual. I wondered if, maybe for next update or maybe a separate spin-off upload (if you think it would be too off the spirit of 1st engine job theme) you could grab one set of main cap, main brg, rod cap, rod brg, & crank from one of the open late model cast crank 225 slant6s that you have laying around to compare with those on that 4.0L-Jeep inline6. Not to try to suggest that 7 main brg design is in some ways better than 4 main brg design (or visa-versa), but to see how it affects things like: general shape/layout of crank, crank cheeks, counterweights, block main webs, crank crankcase, overall crank length, weight, overall engine length, etc. Also I'm not trying to troll or upset any loyal Jeep folks, after all we're still both under the same Ma Mopar banner aren't we?

Great video, nice job.

on the egine i rebuilt got became a stroker. But keep an eye on the push rods lenths ( they where all different lenths on mine) so I put in an adjustable rocker arm kit.

Also an exhaust leak before an o2 sensor will read lean and over time will correct by adding fuel washing the cylinders down, good video.

Number 6 runs hot on the 4.0. I’ve seen a few with broken #6 . A friend just replaced the piston and is still driving it after two years.

You demonstrated exactly why I never turn the engine upside down until I have first removed the oil pan. This keeps any shrapnel and gack from falling down into the reciprocating assembly.

Snails past is perfect for me. I have time to absorb details that we usualy skip cause we want to eat the dessert already! Nice content uncle Tony again.

Thank you Sir👍

Uncle Tony, your advice about mixing up the pistons and rods may turn around and bite someone's back side. one rod journal or cylinder bore may have over sized piston or an undersized rod journal. and if a novice doesn't catch it, he or she can be in a world of hurt. it's always better to put things back where they came from. ESPECIALLY if they are going to reuse some of the parts.

Tony's speed wrench......classic ! ...and yes I do own one .

That Craftsman ratchet. The best design ever.

Tony your best bet is to swap those Pistons out. What you have is exactly what happened to my friend. Only he just had a wrist pin and a rod left when I took the motor apart. We had to sleeve it to save the block

YES!!! The Old School "Speed handle" 👍👍

Looks just like the #3 piston I just replaced on my 97 Cherokee. Everything in the engine looked great. I cleaned everything up put one new piston in it and runs great.

@wendyenglish1403

Жыл бұрын

@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please

Same. I like to "feel" what the bolt or nut does as I remove or tighten.

Magical video. 😊

Valve job, new rings, bearing, new cam with lifters, gaskets, soft pugs, etc ! $500 AND 100,000 MILES! GOOD to go!

What about numbering the rod caps and rods to make sure you get them back on the way they came apart

@johndunn678

Жыл бұрын

You can, or just remember the locks always go together when putting the cap back on the rod.

@wendyenglish1403

Жыл бұрын

@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please

I learn alot from you.

My first American car was a 1964 283 Chevrolet Impala, it had an engine noise which I was told maybe a stuck lifter. I changed the lifters, still the same. Turned out to be a cracked piston, the only thing holding it together was the steel strap cast into the pin boss !.

The piston skirts are super common on the 4Ls. I had the same issue with my 2002 wrangler. instead of putting the 4L back we put in a 5.2L magnum. using the bell housing from a 3.9L magnum we could mount it to the jeep trans.

@JMTiedemann

Жыл бұрын

@@carlt6932 Its fuel injected. As long as you end up with the right computer the body and chassis harness is plug and play! even the factory gauges work properly.

Watching you work on that straight 6 make me want to tear down my slant 6.

You know he’s an old school mechanic when he likes using hand tools

@mph5896

Жыл бұрын

Craftsman 12 tooth ratchet to boot. 😂

@Oldcarnut63

Жыл бұрын

Nothing wrong with hand tools you get a better feel of things Power tools not so much.

@scottwiebel5044

Жыл бұрын

Not wearing gloves neither

@wendyenglish1403

Жыл бұрын

@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please

@HankNinja

Жыл бұрын

Is the term “mechanic’s feel” still in common use? This guy has it in spades. See also: “empathy for the machine” 👍🏻

Good idea to use sump pan for all the pieces I do the same

I've heard of some of those 4.0L Jeep engines lasting upwards of 700k miles. In states where vehicles don't rust out of course.

Just about every 4.0 jeep engine I ever taken apart cylinder 5 or 6 always had a cracked piston skirt. I could never figure out why.

@Broken_Yugo

Жыл бұрын

Runs hotter, more stress. Modern cost reduction clashed with the ancient design.

Reminds me as a kid watching chuck on horsepower tv, he always used a speedwrench every chance he got lol.

I can’t say I’ve ever had a one of these 4 liter Jeep engines apart. These things just didn’t die before the jeeps all rusted an half! I’m amazed any of these 4.0 jeeps are still around up here in New England they are all gone thanks to the insane amount of salt they dump on the roads.

Thankyou

Map sensor or maybe the thermostat was stuck open for a really long time. That can cause an injected motor to go rich.... Or maybe the coolant temp sensor.

A thing you could talk about Uncle Tony while you're using that tool is how it feels in your hand and how a guy or gal should be Hands-On while they're tearing apart or put together a motor

@wendyenglish1403

Жыл бұрын

@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please

I think Uncle T got the motor from my old ZJ. Bad water pump on the way home at 2 am, stopped several times to cool it down. Next day, no startie... bummer...

When I see the filings in the oil pan I wonder if it's worth while to set a cow magnet in the oil pan to grab metal and keep it from circulating through again and again.. Did you happen to do a compression test on this engine? It would be interesting to know where each cylinder was at.

@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259

Жыл бұрын

I run a magnetic drain plug and noticed a new timing chain set (cast gear vs oem nylon) sluffed and an minor afro accumulated on the magnet for a while. I want to begin using my cheap boroscope through the drain plug, don't expect to find anything but ya' never know if you don't look.

The item you called a girdle, it seems to be pretty heavy gauge metal, but looks a bit like a minimalist windage tray, is it actually there to stabilize the main caps? It’s a low stress engine, I’m surprised it would be needed, but they wouldn’t go to the expense of adding it if it wasn’t.

Tip if you're not going to be sending the block for hot tank or doing anything like that, just use a paint marker and put a small mark where the studs are. This will save you the time of searching for the picture, and then searching for where they are.

@wendyenglish1403

Жыл бұрын

@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please

I love this content, Uncle Tony. Thank you

Told you number 6 had something wrong with it! Go back to the first video and look at the number 6 exhaust valve and the color of the plug, totally different from the other five! It was burning way leaner for obvious reasons!

The Strong’s Garage boys just found an old (house) door hinge pin and a 1976 penny in the oil pan of their Ford Model B oil pan.

is it possible the bits of wire came from the oil pick up tube strainer thing? thats all i can think of

I can't believe that "chunk" came off and dropped into the pan without damaging anything else in the process. 😮

@DanEBoyd

Жыл бұрын

It's a pretty thin piece, so it probably stands a better chance of receiving immediately visible damage, than its surroundings in that scenario. What I want to see is the broke-off piece held up to its spot on that #6 piston. I'll bet that it no longer fits like a glove...

@wendyenglish1403

Жыл бұрын

@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please

@creepingjesus5106

Жыл бұрын

The definition of good fortune, I thought. Small enough to pass into the sump, big enough not to get picked up again.

Why why why did the piston break Uncle Tony? I have this very same problem, had to change my oil pump and I found 2 pieces of skirt in the bottom of the oil pan. After careful consideration I looked at my budget. So I put it back together, so far 10,000 miles later just a little slap sound still goin 1/21/23

I admit to getting "antsy" waiting for each episode of this series to appear, but I appreciate that Uncle Tony is taking the time to be thorough.

@UncleTonysGarage

Жыл бұрын

I appreciate your patience! It's a fine line between overwhelming the channel with one series and keeping the flow moving on this.

I found the “”wire “in my pan too ! Looked like a round needle

I wonder if those head bolts being stretched wasn't made worse by only one trip over them with the torque wrench? Or if they weren't loose from the factory? I did some work on a couple N14s a few years ago, it took 6-8 times over the torque pattern til they all stayed tight.

These videos are great. Like watching Bob Ross on engines.

@guyharrison909

Жыл бұрын

No pressure, no pressure you can just rebuild that engine however you you like.

What are the correct installed degrees between the top (firing) compression ring, second compression and the third (oil) ring in reference to the piston boss?

Unc: Maybe the boys and girls should be reminded to put pieces of fuel hose or those nice plastisol booties by Michigan or Clevitel on the conrod bolts . I have seen many cranks with the telltale mark of 3 or 4 marks from the conrod bolt threads on the journals.

I saw one 4.0 let go like this hard enough it looked like a bomb went off in there, didn't disassemble farther than pulling the #6 plug and finding a battered nub, but based on the noise I doubt there was much more than the wrist pin left.

This series is pure gold! Can’t Thank You enough Uncle T!

Even though my engine re-builds were done with all new parts, could you put a new cam in with old lifters ? Thanks in Advance. Tight lines Captain Keith

Lots of SM posts about 4.0 piston skirt damage. Looks like either parts quality or tolerances

The girdle was added to later models in an effort to help NVH.

On bikes wire or spring in the oil is from a seal. On this engine idk.

@tonypace2009

Жыл бұрын

Got a Honda shadow slave rod seal spring ended up in gear synchro. Not looking forward to taking it apart .lol

Matye those are safety wires to secure the rod bolts after removing shims to compensate for the babbit bearings wearing. You never know!

I love your shows. You are an excellent teacher. You take your time and explain all the little details. Exactly what I need as a beginner hobbyists mechanic/hot rodder.

All those Mopar/AMC Jeep inline 6 engines ran rich as Hell with that MAP sensor set up and carbon covered everything because of it plus caused rings to stick and oil to blow all over the place. They still ran good and forever though.

@TheMajictech

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, and the earlier ones had the worlds shittiest injectors too, one big nozzle like a super soaker. No atomization whatsoever.

That crack is very fresh like it just happened when you find the missing piece you should be able to research what happen. As somebody commented leaking injector problem.

Flat plane v8s? Old nascar type deals? And the main differences dlfrom those vs. Street/strip engines. Also costs differences

My 79 F150 302 has both piston and connecting rods stamped with cylinder numbers from the factory in 79. Are all pistons stock and the difference in the cylinder is taken up by the rings (ie) 30 over ect? My truck is bore is 4” and 3” stroke. Just asking.

As I watched you remove the #1 piston, I noticed you just pulled it out of the cylinder without preventing the end of the rod possibly scraping the cylinder wall.

When the check engine light comes on. Sometimes it really really means check the engine. Especially when the check engine light stops working.

Between watching this series and David Visard's videos, I'm ready to find a Junkyard engine to build. The LT1 in my 96 Buick Roadmaster sedan has over 170k miles so I know I need to rebuild it. But since I don't have the time, money, or another car to drive. I think getting a complete engine to rebuild would be my best bet. Cause I can't afford any surprises