50WT (650CST) for the fronts and 60WT (800CST) for the rears seem to be the best setup I've seen. Great video! I thoroughly enjoyed it!

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for dropping by and commenting. Any advice with setup etc is always welcome as everyday is a school day as they say! 👍👌👍👌👍

I grease the O-rings and washers pretty heavily, the cup that compresses the O-ring should be just finger snug, not finger tight. the ring compressed too much can grab too tight on the shaft and the spring can't overcome it like its supposed to. do that part first, then by the look of the position of the collars, measure+mark the length of the spring and give them a stretch 1/4" longer than they were. with the collars all the way up the chassis (battery and all, full running weight) should sit about 3/16" to 1/4" less than full height... or you're able to lift the front or rear that far before the tires lift off the table. that's your soft reference point for the springs, from there you can adjust the collars 1/8" down, 1/4" down, or 3/8" down to be stiffer for some bashing. that 3/16" of settling (collars all the way up) is where you'll have your body roll to tilt the tires onto their outside corners when turning in groomed dirt, upper links to wheel hubs should have the tires *almost* vertical, tops tipped in maybe 1/16" is all. the 3/16" negative suspension travel is what will also help keep all 4 tires to the ground more of the time = control! jumps are cool, but just like BMX racers, the fast guys STAY LOW, because you can't accelerate when you're in the air. better to back off before to land shorter and back in the throttle after landing than it is to launch and lose it. it takes time to get used to doubles and triples, racing still wants a soft articulate setup. shock oil, car that small if you can drop it 12-14" without bouncing (don't care if pan slaps, does it bounce?) its about right. going thicker will slow the body roll and traction getting around corners. that slight wheel "tip in" (camber) keeps you on the inner tire when running straight, saving the outer spikes for cornering. tip the chassis left and right the tires should tip right along with it, rolling body right, tire tops leaning right etc. not played with a 144001 myself, but it looks to be all there as a little 4wd dirt racer. its a machine, just like the factory mass produced guitars, "good enough, ship it!". I'm the guy who will put the strings I like on it, adjust the truss rod, even give it a little action job if it needs it. you notice the difference in playability after a real tuning.

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

As ever sir, your a wealth of knowledge! 😀👍

@modelnutty6503

3 жыл бұрын

@@theminiatureconstructionco4556 for sure don't bash on gravel, eeek! set the thing up and take it out to a large hard packed dirt area it'll just glide fast+controlled like it should through all the little bumps etc. then you'll start to get a feel for "how fast for how tight" cornering. its a little racer not a basher, when its dialed in and you have a real feel for it try to get some track practice time in if you can. tires it comes with are OK for clay or carpet tracks, good groomed loose dirt you'll want nice pin spikes for it.

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

@@modelnutty6503 you mentioned a 280 motor can be used as a direct replacement for the 260 in an MN D99 etc. The only ones I can find have a stated rating of 6v do you have any links where I can have a look at the ones you use? 👍

@modelnutty6503

3 жыл бұрын

@@theminiatureconstructionco4556 www.ebay.com/itm/RF-280-2865-Motor-DC-3V-6V-9V-Micro-Carbon-Brush-Strong-Magnetic-For-Toy-Motor/302398178014?hash=item46685602de:g:-8sAAOSwKE9Z1Olg yes most show 3v-6v, RF-280 maybe a little stouter winding. (but don't bet on that either) www.ebay.com/itm/RS280-280-Carbon-Brush-Motor-for-DIY-RC-Model-Electric-Car/152194438991?epid=1739110116&hash=item236f7ed74f:g:iRYAAOSwFjNex2nH is the RS-280 basically same. www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-RC-280SA-2485-Micro-280-Motor-DC-5V-9V-17000RPM-High-Speed-Carbon-Brush/174138383295?hash=item288b74dbbf:g:uMkAAOSwSK9eBgYU RC-280 a little higher rpm, up to 9v. what I'm using, just had around loose with the white end cap. spun it both directions with 2S and rpm was very near same, maybe barely faster CCW means close to neutral brush timing, good enough! slapped it in and its sure not cooking itself under load, again good enough! it might BE a 6v rated one, but 1.5v more isn't that big a jump, a typical diode (half a transistor, think ESC MOSFET's) is giving up 0.7v, dropping what the motor sees down to 6.8v isn't much to worry about. (with the assumption the 2S is feeding 7.5v) 1500mah 2S 18650 lithium ion is only going to push 3.5 or 4A at best, with the ESC rated for 20A max (burst) and 10A continuous, pretty good safety only pushing 40-50% of the ESC's continuous rating. just little stuff off the top of my head (did about 3 years electronics schooling too btw). most DC motors are RPM rated in forward CCW rotation, faster usually just the difference of brush timing set more advanced to do it. crawlers like neutral brush timing, is also the lower current drawn through them = longer run time and more torque at lower rpm's too spinning both directions, so pick on the ones with the lower rpm ratings, more likely to be neutral brush timing... they're just not very specific with their specifications (lmao). of the 3 listed above I'd pick door number one or door number two, steering away from the "faster" door number three that might be hiding officer Stadenko and a bust. (old Cheech-n-Chong reference to their "Lets Make A Dope Deal" skit.) search RF-280, or RS-280. when installing use the full triad of noise capacitors to keep brushes from arcing (plus to can, minus to can, and one plus to minus) helps keep down internal motor heat quite a bit same time making a lot less RF noise to mess with a receiver. if motor free spin is darn near the exact same song in both directions, it should be crawler friendly. don't worry much about a listing saying "3v 6v", they'll all spin on that lower voltage input. IF they were nicer about real specifications the risk might be a little lower is all. another IF is the rpm rating being really low may be using a mile of really fine magnet wire in the armature specific to very low voltage low current.. but that'd also want some REALLY wimpy magnets, like a 130 motor has in them (doubt they're doing that one). at only 3 bucks each, grab an RF and an RS to see which you like better? do the polarity brush timing test? another IF... if a motor runs a little faster in one direction, you might have to flip the axles to take advantage of forward speed, because running a motor backwards is harder on it and it delivers less torque as it heats up too. (haha see what you did simply asking for a link?! dang!... :) ) when you succeed with it I'll make a toy motor graduation certificate to print up, "complete with a string to tie around your neck"...more Cheech-n-Chong if you remember the beer can hash pipe line.. excuse my mood those guys were just FUNNY. some nice info about most all small DC motors in that whole page worth of a comment tho :)

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

@@modelnutty6503 hahahaha. Do you have to cut the pinion gear (output) shaft down or is it the same length as the original? 👍

Piston rod polishing is the solution, that,s why new one lifts so well. Just mount rod on your drill and use some polishing paste. After this rod goes in like butter.

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

Жыл бұрын

Excellent tip there, I'll have to try it 👍👍

I found a guide somewhere with various scales and model types that suggested something like 350/400 or 400/450 oil for a 1/12 buggy. I’ve ordered 400 and 450. The heavy motor being towards the back definitely warrants using the different grades front and rear I think. We shall see when it arrives.

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

That's sounds like a better plan. Let us know how you get on. 👍

Very cool 😎

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you. 👍

I have one myself and i changed the oil just now.. It's much better than before, but i think the actual problem is that the springs are not quite strong enough...

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

To a certain degree I can agree with you because you can now buy uprated spring's for them. I wonder if the originals sag a little with time? 👍

I have a 124019 do you know the type of O rings and the type of the seals to buy them? because ot came with only one O ring inside each absorber an with no seal....Nice video!!

Do I have to take apart the whole shock to do this mod, or can I just take the spring rest, spring, and top cap off and pour out the old oil and replace with better oil? I'm still somewhat of a newbie, so I don't want to do too advanced stuff. The most advanced thing I've done to my 144001 is replace the ESC, radio/receiver, and servo.

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

I've not got the shocks in front of me but you may just be able to do it by twisting the shock caps off the top. And top up or replace the oil. Simple as that! 👍👌

Look for the rear spring set for the Reflex 14. I replaced all the stock springs with this set.

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

Are they a stiffer set?👍

lube points, and 100wt shock oil(fill the cylinder to the max). longer and thicker springs help too.

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

One or two people have suggested filling the shocks up to the max. Appreciate you taking the time to comment. 👍

@durkadann2943

3 жыл бұрын

@@theminiatureconstructionco4556 NP. nice vids ya got here.

@durkadann2943

3 жыл бұрын

NP! nice vids ya got! gave er the ole sub. P.S. put some foamies on that beast. so much fun.

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

@@durkadann2943 thank you very much. The sub is much appreciated. I will definitely consider foams for the future! 👍

@modelnutty6503

3 жыл бұрын

@@durkadann2943 a set of green dots for pavement would be a lot of fun with one of these, it sure was back when with my old RC10.

may i know tis wltoys 144001 buggy front and rear shocks length are the same or the front shorter the back longer?

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

2 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately I don't have the shocks in front of me anymore. But I can tell you that the preload for the rear springs was greater. I'm pretty sure from memory that the units themselves were the same size. Hope this helps! 👍👌

I was waiting to see a before and after video at the end

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

It's been a tricky one recently. I've not had much time to get out without the weather being terrible here to test. But you can see from the video how much the shocks sag to begin with. And what they are like after. It's more of a how too video this one than a full on test, but I can see your point. There will be a shock test in the near future though but with a different model. 👍😀

@carloshnunez

3 жыл бұрын

@@theminiatureconstructionco4556 Sounds good man

My brand new 144010 shocks are sticky...i replaced the shock oil with losi 60wt and they still stick when trying to compress. Can it be the washers/o rings? Should i open it, clean them and coat them with shock oil?

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

Жыл бұрын

Yes it could be dry seals. You could try a drop of oil on the stantions. 👍👍

@RayRiv73

Жыл бұрын

@@theminiatureconstructionco4556 cool thanks

Am I the only one that cleans rc cars after use even I drive it for 10 mins?

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

I tend to give mine a cheeky wash if I encounter mud, but that's about it. The chap who lent me this buggy had, had it on the beach so that's why there's a bit of corrosion here and there. 👍

@nikipow3569

3 жыл бұрын

Yes you are

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

@@nikipow3569 hahahaha 😆. I've got to admit as awful as it sounds I've never bothered. If anyone asks it's called patina. 👍

mine rebuilt many times and it last only a while ( 1-2 batteries use) until they lose again all oil :( everything seems ok, using 400CST oil

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

2 жыл бұрын

I think that goes for alot of cheaper oil shocks. 👍👍

Just drill an extra 1/32 hole in the plastic disc

The shocks come overfilled. Thats why they spring back more. Take off the springs on the new shocks and youll notice they extend on their own

Do your shocks leak?

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

Hello Cal. I can't speak from long-term experience because the buggy belongs to a friend of mine. But I have had one of these shocks leak from new in the box (it had the wrong seal in it). I believe eventually they all start to weep, and it's usually the seals at the bottom that go. If you can find replacements they are easy to swap out. 👍👍

Touch more oil . When you push the rod in it should rebound out by itself , just under level with the very top .it's a pain to get right 1 drop to much and it wont compress fully 1 drop not enough it won't rebound at all . You want to feel resistance about 3/4 compression so the shock won't bottom out then extend back out almost fully .

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

I'll give that a try. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I'm no expert and everydays a school day as it were. I was just happy it seemed to be an improvement over the saggy originals! 👍😆

The problem of the 144 is the springs

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

That's a good point. Which springs do you use? 👍

@Dani_Delca

3 жыл бұрын

@@theminiatureconstructionco4556 Try to disassemble shocks and stretch the original springs 2cm, mount, then tell us

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

@@Dani_Delca I will pass that on. 👍

I watched the funny and informative video well. You have a good hobby. Want to be a close friend. 우리 친구해요.~😎😎😎

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

Yes why not! 👍

Use Vaseline

@theminiatureconstructionco4556

3 жыл бұрын

Sorry for the delay in replying. And thanks for your comments. Would that not be a bit thick? How have you found using it? 👍

@jesusfigueroa198

3 жыл бұрын

@@theminiatureconstructionco4556 it is at first, but after some use it gets a little thinner